Part 2: São Vicente Island
It’s CABO VERDE airlines that will take us on this 50-minute hop to São Vicente. With a bit of apprehension because the sites and Facebook pages about Cape Verde are full of all kinds of aeronautical woes—from simple delays to outright flight cancellations without notice, compensation, or any assistance...
But we’re at the very start of the tourist season, the weather (and wind) is mild, and we’ll land at the Césaria Évora Airport in Mindelo with just a 30-minute delay.
And there, second Cape Verdean shock: From the plane already, the profile and views of São Vicente and São Antão, its big sister just a stone’s throw away, are stunning.
Once we arrive in Mindelo, the contrast with Praia is striking. Here, it’s a small town geared toward tourism, the atmosphere is much more relaxed, and we’ll even struggle to find an open restaurant. It’s true that we took our time at the guesthouse, Casa Bom Dia, chosen for two nights for its proximity to the city center and its private terrace with a splendid view of the town.
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The next day, I feel the urge for freedom to explore this island. There were plenty of offers in town and online to hire a guide with a vehicle, but after a few clicks and phone calls, we decide on a scooter for the day at 30 €.
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Especially since São Vicente is a small island—227 km², a pebble just 24 km/16 miles at its longest. We hop on the scooter for an easy ride on deserted paved roads, all the way to Baia das Gatas, famous for its huge international music festival during the full moon in August. The festival was canceled this year, though, because of Hurricane Erin, which hit Mindelo hard.
https://information.tv5monde.com/afrique/video/au-cap-vert-apres-la-tempete-erin-9-morts-et-1500-deplaces-dus-aux-violentes-inondations-2788537I wonder if the town has recovered from the storm’s aftermath—maybe Marie has recent updates? Either way, in early July, the place is deserted, and we’ll have the beach, the village, and the jetty all to ourselves.
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We continue to Calhau, another deserted fishing village, before ending our trip in São Pedro, a village on the west coast near the airport, for lunch.
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We don’t know it yet, but São Pedro is also known for the chance to swim with green turtles. It’s a small crowd by the beach—and a tout who approaches us as soon as we arrive—that lets us in on the secret.
We’re not usually comfortable with this kind of excursion, no matter the animal or the country. We prefer to leave these creatures in peace—they didn’t ask for this. Plus, I’d already swum with turtles in Akumal, Mexico, back in the last century. But the tout’s insistence and the chance for him to earn a little money, combined with our desire to see these enchanting animals up close again, makes us cave.
The excursion is sold by all the agencies in Mindelo, but here it’s more of a local, artisanal vibe—and I like that. We board his small motorboat and stop 150 meters from the shore, in the open sea. Weird—are we already there? But where’s the turtle?
No sooner do we stop than one, then two, then more turtles circle the boat (we count seven). Of course, they’re alerted by the engine noise and lured by the fish the young man throws.
So many turtles that the Cape Verdean couple expats from France who joined us decide not to swim with them. The sea is rough, and that doesn’t exactly encourage snorkeling. Even for me, holding the life jacket (not recommended to wear it—it’ll take you out to sea), it wasn’t easy. Still, the moment is magical—the turtles are only focused on the food and don’t even notice us.
My attention is drawn to two specimens with GPS trackers, and I’ll learn later that evening, chatting with our host, that they’re part of a government study to determine if these practices harm the species. First, because a turtle’s diet is mostly herbivorous, and second, because if they’re fed year-round, they might lose the urge to migrate—a vital part of their life cycle. I worry about the study’s findings and the fishermen’s little business...
Back in Mindelo, we drop off the scooter quickly. The evening is all about calm and relaxation, enjoying the terrace of the restaurant with live musicians accompanying us.
The next day, our departure for Santo Antão is scheduled on the 2 p.m. ferry. The morning is spent wandering aimlessly, visiting the municipal market, the fish market, the miniature replica of Lisbon’s Belém Tower, and the many colonial villas. I really love the vibe of this town. Mindelo reminds me of Paraty, Ouro Preto...
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Then it’s off for an hour-long crossing—pretty calm, though it’s not always the case—for our next stop: Porto Novo.
Statue of Cesária Évora at the airport
On the pier
(Boarding followed by a crossing that wasn’t too rough, yet half the Cape Verdeans were throwing up into plastic bags they then tossed into the sea ).
