Review of an Aegean Sea cruise on Ponant's Bougainville from November 1-8, 2025 (page 3 of 4)

Thanks Guylène, it was those stopovers we didn’t know about that drew us to this cruise. Have a great weekend too.

Hi Isa,

You're right, we really weren’t lucky with the weather on this cruise. I never would’ve imagined such bad weather before we left. I even regretted not bringing more sweaters... The t-shirts stayed in the suitcase, and the weather was nicer and warmer in Normandy than what we had! 😏

For planning my stops, it’s pretty simple—I always prepare way more activities than we could ever do, and once we’re there, we choose based on the time we have and the weather. We rarely do everything I’d planned. Plus, since we love walking, we almost always go on foot, so no constraints.

On this cruise, which wasn’t an expedition cruise, we had a daily excursion to choose from among several labeled "free," but I consider them more like included in the price. 😉

And you’ll see at the next stop—I completely messed up my choice, which ruined the whole stop. 😠

Limnos, Thursday, November 6

Limnos is an island located in the middle of the northern Aegean Sea, away from the tourist crowds.

The weather today still isn’t on our side. Originally, we were supposed to spend the entire day on this island. A few weeks before the cruise started, we were informed that the stop in Limnos would be shortened to allow more time at the next stop on the island of Hydra.



This is the most disappointing and frustrating stop of this cruise, and it’s my fault. When the day was cut in half, I didn’t think to adjust my plans.



The excursion I chose takes us to the archaeological site of Poliochni on the eastern side of the island. This site is considered one of Europe’s earliest urban centers, sometimes even called "the oldest city in Europe" when referring to the Bronze Age. The discoveries made here span from 3100 BC to 2100 BC.

Houses, paved streets, water drainage systems, wells, and public buildings have been uncovered here.

The site shows that even at the beginning of the Bronze Age, organized societies existed with urban planning, collective life, and governance. It illustrates the earliest metallurgical and commercial exchanges with other regions of the Aegean Sea.

Some communal spaces are considered the oldest traces of civic organization in Europe, like this rectangular building with tiered benches on each side, interpreted as a parliament or assembly for notables. This is, according to some, the oldest trace of civic organization in Europe.



Once again, I’m disappointed that our guide doesn’t have the storytelling skills of a good guide to bring this historically rich visit to life. There’s no depth to the narrative—the guide’s delivery is flat and fails to spark any interest. The visit is boring and, above all, freezing, with a biting wind and gloomy skies.







There isn’t much left to see of all this history, and we’re relieved to take shelter in the small museum to cut this tedious visit short.

On the way back, we stop at a winery for a tour and tasting of Limnos island wines. The estate is run by French-speaking producers who trained in the Bordeaux region. The tour consists of quickly walking through large warehouses filled with huge stainless steel vats before arriving at the tasting room.

The wine is loaded with sulfites—undrinkable for me—and the cheese isn’t any more natural or better.

It’s been a pretty dismal morning. Time seems to drag before we get back on the bus. We’re still 40 minutes away from the port, and if we’d been closer, we could’ve walked back earlier.

And to top it off, at the last minute, the stop is shortened even more due to weather conditions. From the bus, we have to head straight back to the ship without even being able to stroll around the small port.

I really regretted this excursion. We would’ve been better off exploring the village and surrounding area where we docked on our own. Plus, the weather was better there.



The afternoon is spent (already) starting to pack our suitcases to free up time tomorrow, which will be our last stop. A one-week cruise goes by so fast!

We still have part of our onboard credit left to spend, so the only solution is to head to the ship’s boutique.

The Farewell Gala dinner is tonight, just as delicious as the welcome one.

Hydra, Friday, November 7th

At last!!! We arrive under a magnificent sun, in front of this splendid village clinging to the rocks at the bottom of a cove.

Hydra is an island completely off-limits to cars: you get around exclusively on foot or by water taxi. Wandering around the island, especially through the narrow streets of the town, is an integral part of the visit. The name "Hydra" comes from an ancient Greek term meaning "water," a tribute to the many wells that were once found on its small 49 km² surface.

On the port, the large terraces invite you to sit down and fully savor the moment.

But the walk is so beautiful that it beckons you to keep exploring.



The fisherman’s return isn’t without interest…

With no motorized vehicles, you’ve got to find an adapted way to transport materials.



to be continued…

Hydra, Friday, November 7th (continued)

Walking along the harbor, we reach the Komiseos Theotokou Monastery, located just behind the waterfront. You enter it by passing under the clock tower.

The place exudes a peaceful and serene atmosphere.



It’s possible to walk around the church thanks to an ambulatory on the first floor of the surrounding building, which offers a lovely view of the whole complex.



After wandering through the alleys behind the village, we follow the harbor toward Agios Konstantinos (Saint Constantine Church). It’s recent and nothing remarkable, but its elevated location supposedly offers a spectacular panorama of Hydra.







It’s not great to be in the line of fire of the island’s defenses. Let’s hope everything goes well until tonight…



to be continued…

Hi Catherine 😎

I’ve always wanted to visit Hydra, and in the sunshine it’s gorgeous.

The last stop was perfect.

Thanks for the details on preparing for the stops without ever knowing the exact times... Your last stop with the sunshine and blue skies made all the difference! 😊

Hi Catherine,

Hydra is really beautiful and very pleasant to visit at this time of year. The day promised to be lovely...

Hi Isa, Oh yes, the sun makes all the difference—we were really missing it. This stop was such a welcome break.

Hello Catherine,

The descriptions of the excursions are always interesting. It’s true that the quality of a guide—whether male or female—is very important during visits. Have a great day! Guylène

Thanks, Guylène, We agree—it’s the quality of the guide and how they tell the story that really makes an excursion special.

Hydra, Friday, November 7th (continued)

The path to the viewpoint offers a lovely panorama even before reaching the top.



But then—disaster! My husband falls and cuts his head open. The walk is over. Returning to the ship with a bleeding head, the trip around the port feels much longer on the way back than it did going out. The cut isn’t deep, so I’ll play nurse—we have everything we need on board. Three steri-strips later, we comfort ourselves with a pleasant meal on the Bougainville’s aft terrace.



After the meal, I head back ashore alone—some rest is necessary for the injured. It’s really bad luck for what was supposed to be the best day of the cruise.

The west coastal path leads toward Kamini. There’s no one on this stunning trail. It runs all the way to a picturesque little fishing port, which is especially lovely at this time of year.





Since I still have time, I continue along this beautiful path that winds along the shore until I reach this charming little bridge.





to be continued...

Hydra, Friday, November 7th (end)

On the other side of the bridge, a tiny village stretches along the waterfront, made up of second homes and small beaches with crystal-clear waters.







As the path veers away from the seaside and heads inland, I end my walk here and turn back.





The coastal path heading east from the village has less charm and appeal.





Except for this stylized sun, a contemporary art piece installed in 2022 in a former slaughterhouse turned art space. The sculpture embodies the sun god Apollo, blending Greek mythology with contemporary art.

Back on the ship, we watch the first sunset of the evening, our last night on this cruise.

Tomorrow, the conclusion.

Hi Catherine,

I’m really sorry about your husband, and thank goodness his injury wasn’t too serious!

Here for the rest and your conclusion.

Hi Catherine, It’s great you had the essentials for first aid. We always travel with a basic supply of medicine and bandages just in case. Your husband enjoyed your stunning photos after your excursion—though I’m sure it would’ve been even better for him to see it in person. Have a lovely day! Guylène

Hi Guylène,

He actually discovered the photos while reading the trip report—I didn’t dare show them to him earlier so as not to upset him even more. A basic first-aid kit is always essential. I’ll take this opportunity to share the little story behind this accident.

To clean the wound, I quickly used up all the tissues in the cabin. I stepped into the hallway to look for our cabin steward to ask for more. No one in the corridor.

Then the captain appeared. A charming man. I told him, "I know I shouldn’t be asking you this, but do you know where I could find some tissues?" and I explained why. He rummaged through a cart, and just then, our "savior," as the captain called him, walked by—the ship’s doctor.

He explained the situation to the doctor, who told me to meet him at the ship’s "hospital" so he could take a look.

Now, I was watching both of them (*It’s clearly stated in the terms that visits are chargeable and non-refundable, and I’m used to onboard ship fees*). So I told them I’d clean it myself (*and I swear I hate anything involving blood*), because I didn’t want to pay $200 for a visit. That made them laugh.

The doctor told me to come by the hospital—no problem. He examined my husband, gave us some gauze, disinfectant, and a cute duck-blue bandage, all for free. 🙂

That’s the kind of human connection, closeness, and kindness you find with Ponant.

Conclusion

Despite the unexpected challenges we encountered, we’re really happy with our cruise. We had a great time on board in what we found to be a unique atmosphere with Ponant. We loved the quality of the dining, the welcome, and the service. We shared some wonderful, warm, and friendly evenings with some really nice fellow passengers. That’s already a lot to ask for on a cruise.

The itinerary was original and different from the cruises in the Cyclades we’ve done before—those islands can get really crowded. I chose it because we didn’t know any of the stops.

The weather was a bit gloomy, not what we’d expected, and the trip would’ve been even more magical under bright sunshine.

We had two Greek guides who were perfectly fluent in French, highly qualified, with PhDs in history, and each with 50 years of professional experience. While their lectures were frequent and very interesting, as guides, they weren’t exactly captivating. Being a guide is an art, different from being a lecturer. As for the third guide… we wondered what she was even doing on the ship. The tour we took with her was completely uninteresting.

I’m glad I did this cruise, but I won’t be doing it again. Some stops were too short—we didn’t have time to explore Skiathos and Límnos on our own after the excursions, which was really frustrating.

The service on board Ponant is still excellent, though some of the premium offerings and little luxuries have taken a hit. The Pata Negra tastings are gone, Ladurée macarons have been replaced with Hermé, and the toiletries aren’t from Hermès or L’Occitane anymore—they’re in dispensers from a brand I’ve never heard of.

What I really didn’t like was having to drink recycled water—it wasn’t good at all. At the prices these cruises cost, the least they could do is offer mineral water.

That said, the quality of the meals was an absolute delight, a treat from start to finish. The sommelier even had sulfite-free wine to offer. The service was relaxed but attentive, warm, and generous—it was a real pleasure.

Traveling on a mostly French-speaking ship is a real joy and makes it much easier to connect with other passengers. Sharing a table with friendly people really enhances the cruise experience.

I love Ponant, but I’m not sure I’ll sail with them again after my next cruise—their prices have become unreasonable, shooting up across all destinations in recent months.

Hi Catherine,

A thousand thanks for this great review (as usual)!

It’s too bad there are fewer reviews on this forum—there’s a packed calendar, but not many trip reports. Sure, it’s not the easiest thing to do, but even a quick recap or summary is always helpful. Anyway!

The free visit to the doctor was a great perk (a big plus for Ponant), since most companies charge astronomical fees for even a small "ouch."

True, the weather didn’t cooperate, but it seems the onboard services made up for it. That said, drinking recycled water on a cruise like that feels a bit "cheap."

I’d love to try this company, but the prices are really over the top.

Can’t wait for the next cruise (coming up fast!), which will be very different from this one—and especially for the longer review, since we love your writing!

Thanks again for sharing!

Alfred

Thanks, Alfred, for your message—it really made my day to read it!

Like you, I’d love to see more trip reports or even just quick summaries of experiences. It’s such a pleasure to swap cruise stories and hear about others’ adventures.

I really didn’t like the recycled water at all, and I told them so in my comments. But ecology seems to be the easy excuse. Thankfully, there’s always the Champagne 😉 and the cocktails are excellent.

I can’t wait for my next cruise—especially since it’ll be an expedition cruise, my favorite kind. Unless there’s a miracle, I’m afraid this might be my last with Ponant. It’s a shame, but enough is enough.

A big thank you, Catherine, for this great review and your beautiful photos. Hydra is a really pleasant stop. What a shame about your husband.

It’s true that during my Ponant cruise, the ship’s doctor was very present, especially at reception where he asks if you have any health issues. I heard he saw passengers who reported a cough for free. The cost of a visit to the infirmary is quite reasonable, in line with expectations, even if it’s a bit above the French social security rates. Of course, it’s nothing like the outrageous prices charged on American ships, and that’s a big plus for Ponant.

Several passengers regretted a certain drop in service quality and an increase in prices. Thanks again, and can’t wait for the next cruises!