Trip to Thailand and Laos (page 3 of 19)

Even though the dream boutique resort we chose back then is also a gem from this forum

Isn’t it in Luang??

Oops, you’re right—you were talking about Bangkok. Phew, I’d have hated to miss out on a gem ;)

Well, I’m relieved—I’d have hated to miss a gem ;)

Gem might be overstating it ;) Great value for money at this nice spot, but what we really loved was the neighborhood.

Thanks for the travel journal 🙂 Well written with lovely photos—I can’t wait for the next installment of the happy group’s adventures.

the children come out of the puppet theater and take a bow to the delighted audience

These unexpected moments during a trip are always such a joy 🙂

You’ll also notice that we’re bundled up in the morning

(that’s Kate 😉). I didn’t expect it to be so chilly (cold?) in Laos, at least in Luang Prabang. We hadn’t had much sun, but at least it was warm! 😎

The gang of four thanks you for following along 😉

I didn't think it could be so cool (cold?) in Laos, at least in Luang Prabang

Me neither! 🤪 In his travel journal, Bruno mentions swimming in his hotel pool during the same time of year. We seem to have hit an unusual cold spell. We never felt like swimming, neither in a pool nor in the Kuang Si Falls. Jackets and scarves in the morning, same in the evening when we dined on the terrace. You didn’t have sun but it was hot, we had sun but it was cool (except in the middle of the day), Bruno had sun and it was hot. Spot the mistake 😄

I’ll let Richard continue his travel journal since I’ve unintentionally spoiled the suspense: the story of the "Kuang Si Falls"!

Hello

and thank you for this such pleasant and well-documented travel journal—always a delight—which brings back so many memories, though a bit distant now... (I love Laos and Luang Prabang in particular)

Calaf

Hi there

We often hear that Laos has "changed" in recent years. Maybe after reading our travel journal, you can tell us if you notice these transformations—or not.

[, Bruno had sunshine and it was hot. Spot the mistake

That was actually another reason why I’d skipped climbing Mount Phousi: the heat.

That said, once the sun went down, a light jacket was quickly needed—especially as we headed up toward Nong Khiaw! But I think we’ll get there soon enough…

Since I’ve been on VoyageForum less lately, I just stumbled upon this travel journal I’ve started reading—especially since Laos is pretty high on my wish list of countries I haven’t visited yet, and I love the adventures of the "gang of four." So, I’m jumping in!

Hi Pagal, It's great to have you following along. I hope our travel journal will inspire you to try an adventure in Laos. P.S. Kate’s been feeling a bit lost since you stopped your story about "the all-too-familiar Rajasthan" 😉 We’ll keep following you when you pick it back up. And you’re right—little comments, even short ones, are really encouraging and make us want to keep going 🙂

A frustrating "Tak Bat," a fragrant market, a foaming waterfall, a revitalizing massage... That’s Luang Prabang!

We wake up very early. The day hasn’t broken yet, and we head out into the cool morning air toward Luang Prabang’s main street to witness the monks’ procession. For centuries, the city’s monks have left their temples to receive alms from the faithful—an act of charity and faith. But this religious ceremony is turning into a folkloric spectacle because of the sheer number of tourist groups lining up alongside us on Sisavang Vong Road.

There’s hustle and bustle, chatter in every language. A real open-air Tower of Babel. The anticipation of the monks’ arrival builds the tension. It feels like waiting for the Tour de France. The jingle of bells announces the monks in their saffron-orange robes. Nathalie and Bruno wanted to take part in the ceremony respectfully. Kate tries to snap a few photos half-heartedly, while I swallow my disappointment—this procession didn’t evoke any emotion in me.

The mistake was positioning ourselves on the tourist avenue. A little farther away, in the quieter side streets, the atmosphere was more serene and solemn. Oh well, you don’t always get it right when traveling.



It’s still very early, and we decide to explore the Morning Market near Wat Mai. A real local market, just the way the four of us love them! We first walk down a narrow street packed with stalls set up right on the ground. Fruits, flowers, vegetables of all shapes and colors—some impossible to name. Few men in this section; mostly women, farmers coming to sell their produce in the city. A little farther down, other stalls with fish and chickens, mostly run by men, it seems. Kate politely asks for permission to take photos, no problem.

This colorful, fragrant stroll does us good and reconnects us with the Laos we wanted to discover.







But time is moving on, and we have to return to our hotel, where a taxi is waiting to take us to the Kuang Si Falls, about 30 kilometers away. The place is, of course, very touristy but absolutely stunning. We wander through a lush, almost jungle-like setting before reaching a wide waterfall cascading translucent water into natural pools. To the left of the waterfall, I spot a steep metal staircase offering a panoramic view above the canopy—and maybe, we hope, a glimpse of the top of the falls.

542 steps! Nathalie and Bruno are up for it, but I’ll have to convince Kate... I downplay the number of steps to ease her in. I feel guilty, but I’ll pay for it later! A 25-minute climb filled with groans, grumbles, and complaints. We finally reach the top, where there’s a café perched in the trees. But we still have to climb more. The view from the canopy is beautiful, but there’s no sign of the waterfall... How do you say it? I’m in a tight spot.







We return to Luang Prabang in the mid-afternoon. We liked our taxi driver so much that we negotiate with him for the trip to Nong Khiaw the next day.

To recover from our physical exertion, Kate suggests a Lao massage. Nathalie, Kate, and Bruno love it, but I’m more hesitant. It’s not that I mind being touched, but my past experiences in India didn’t convince me. One word keeps coming to mind: *kneading*.

The Lao experience confirms my feelings. My companions are delighted, relaxed, and rejuvenated. I don’t feel limp—just battered.

Tomorrow, we’re off to Nong Khiaw...





The rest is here

We liked the taxi driver so much that we negotiated with him for the next day’s ride to Nong Khiaw.

We were supposed to take a shared van. The price was around 16 € per person for a round trip. But the idea of a private taxi started growing on us... We leave when we want, stop where and when we want, and the road is rough—our poor bodies would’ve been battered, bouncing around in those packed vans In short, the nice taxi driver quoted us 200 € for the round trip for the four of us. We ended up accepting after shaving off about twenty euros. This "sacrifice" would be our little luxury (and time would prove we made the right call...)

Nathalie and Bruno are on board; now I just have to convince Kate... I break it to her gently, downplaying the number of steps. I’m ashamed, but I’ll pay for it later!

542 steps to see nothing And three days of calf pain 🏴‍☠️

The mistake was actually staying on the tourist avenue, when just a little further away in the side streets the atmosphere was more serene and solemn. Oh well, you don’t always get it right when traveling.

I’m posting this photo again (it’s not great), taken before the monks passed by—just so you get the idea I’m still skeptical though, because with so many tourists, the crowds will likely spread into the smaller streets soon. I remember a woman yelling instructions at her group, screaming right in my ears—I decided to escape and grab a coffee. Then someone came over and told her to calm down.



More here

In the end, based on your feedback, no regrets about not waking my sweetheart to attend that "ceremony," which over time and with the crowds seems more and more like a huge circus... The upside is that the monks must be well-endowed with donations...

I see you wandering around the morning market, but not a word about the night market? Did you try the little restaurants in the evening on the main square?

At the Kuang Si Falls, I was struck by how touristy the place was. We arrived in the middle of the afternoon, and the site was packed—it was quieter around 5 PM. For us, the access via the steps was blocked, so we took the path to the right of the waterfall, which was indeed very steep. But I enjoyed the tranquility of that part of the site, and the swim was really nice, despite the very cold water! But of course, at the top of the falls, there are no falls!



I even got to swing a little (promise, the only photo!)

We were supposed to take a shared van. The price was about 16 € per person for a round trip. But this idea of a private taxi sprouted in our minds... We leave when we want, we stop where and when we want, and the road is bad—our little bodies risk getting battered, tossed around in those packed vans

My worst experience in Laos, fortunately only on the way there—the return trip was more bearable... The advantage of traveling with 4 people is that privatizing transport becomes an option and makes trips more peaceful...

542 steps to see *nothing* And three days of calf pain 🏴‍☠️

*Nothing* seems a bit harsh—the site is still nice, after all.

I see you wandering around the morning market, but not a word about the night market? Did you try the little restaurants in the evening on the main square?

The evening we could have done it, we were tired and gave up along the way. Plus, we stumbled upon a super nice street food stall and wanted to go back the next day (we actually only spent 3 evenings in LP). Anyway, we probably missed out on some "great tips" and messed up the Tak Bat. But we made up for it later 😉

542 steps to see nothing And three days of calf pain 🏴‍☠️

Nothing, I think you're being harsh—the site is still nice.

No, there are just steps surrounded by trees. No view. And at the top, a bar in the trees with a blocked view Still a bit of a rip-off! Maybe it was better via the trail...

I’m reposting this (ugly) photo, taken before the monks passed by—just so you get the idea

I’d read while planning the trip that Tak Bat had turned into a bit of a spectacle. We tried our luck on the streets near our hotel (My Dream Boutique Resort)—probably fewer monks, but only two other tourists 😎!

See, Bruno, you could’ve made the effort to get up!

As for Kuang Si Falls, they’re still just as photogenic! We also hiked to the top of the falls (from what I remember, it was via a trail, not stairs—maybe the other side of the falls)… only to be disappointed: nothing to see up there! 😕



And when it comes to minivans, given our experiences , no doubt about it—a private taxi is way more comfortable! 😎

I had already read while preparing for the trip that the Tak Bat had become a spectacle. We tried our luck in the streets near the hotel (my dream boutique resort): probably fewer monks... but only 2 other tourists 😎!

You see, Bruno, you could have made the effort to get up! 😏

I never have a problem getting up early, especially if it's worth it. I see that we also frequent the same (excellent) places.

I think the discussion I had back then with a monk on the other side of the Mekong during a bike ride was a thousand times more enriching than this parade. Well, he spoke impeccable English, that helps a lot.

We also went up to the top of the falls (but from what I remember, it was via a trail, not stairs, maybe on the other side of the falls)... only to be disappointed: nothing to see!

Despite my attempts, no chance of rehabilitating the upper side of the falls

No, it's just steps surrounded by trees. No view. And at the top, a bar in the trees with a blocked view Pretty much a scam, though! Maybe it was better via the trail...

Alright, alright, I won’t insist 😄 You just don’t like the swing, that’s all.