Off to explore Egypt! (page 3 of 6)

Seriously Franck, not only are you confirming my Egyptian dreams, but as always with you, I’m laughing so hard 😂. Thanks a million 😊! Christelle

Seriously Franck, not only do you confirm my Egyptian dreams, but as usual with you, I can't stop laughing 😂. Thanks a million 😊! Christelle

You’re teasing us, right? :P Seriously, thanks for your message!

February 15 - Day 7 Southern Egypt is synonymous with the country’s second city, the beautiful Aswan. Twenty years ago, this city was the highlight of my trip. Will it be any different this time around? I’ve definitely changed—but has it? In my memory, this is where the Nile reached its peak of beauty, winding through its lush green setting like a final protective barrier against the Nubian desert.

For accommodation, we chose Elephantine Island, right in the middle of the Nile facing the city—and oh my God, what a great call! At sunrise, I find myself alone on the rooftop terrace of our guesthouse, and... how to put it... it’s peaceful, it’s calm, it’s beautiful—it’s the Aswan I remember!



It’s dripping with zen vibes—I have to share this with Flo! I don’t have much trouble coaxing her out of her adventure dreams to experience one in real life. Off we go for a morning exploratory stroll around the island. I imagine it’ll be bustling with tourists later in the day, drawn by the authentic charm of the place, but right now, it’s just us and a few Nubian locals starting their day, welcoming us with big smiles.





Colorful, dusty little streets, lush gardens, and a shoreline dotted with its signature rocks—perfect for jumping and climbing, as long as you don’t slip and take an unplanned dip in the Nile. Hop, hop, hop... and *splash*! Morning shower, check! If you’re wondering, the water’s great!







We wrap up our exploration with a hearty Nubian breakfast at King Jamaica, overlooking the Nile and its soft morning hues. Pure magic... We chat with the owner for a few minutes, who shares his deep love for his island, its laid-back lifestyle, and Nubian culture. And we totally get it! Here’s hoping all three can be preserved for a long time to come...

Day 7 (continued)

Back at the guesthouse after their first sleep-in, we grab our girls and head to the neighboring island, Kirchner Island, aboard our host’s felucca!





This uninhabited island is home to a botanical garden where we wander for an hour among palm trees, bougainvillea, and other flamboyant plants. I can’t help but say it again—this place oozes relaxation!







Next, a quick boat hop, and we set foot on the west bank of the Nile, dominated by a long, high sand dune plunging into the river. Our goal is to walk along its crest from the village of Gharb Soheil to Nubian Beach. To spare our two teens’ legs and moods, they ride camels up the dune. The rest? Pure pharaonic bliss! Exceptional views from Qubbet el-Hawa, an interesting visit to the nobles’ tombs, a walk through the vast desert to the Saint Simeon Monastery, a detour to the Aga Khan Mausoleum, and finally, a descent to follow the Nile down to the Nubian Beach bar—which, ironically, had nothing left to drink except coffee.

Day 7 (continued)



So, we headed back to our island home for our first beer of the trip at Nubian Dreams, then a really chill dinner for our comeback at King Jamaica with the glowing red sunset over the city right in front of us. "Isn’t life beautiful?" From sunrise to sunset and far from the hustle and bustle of big cities, twenty years later, my beautiful Aswan, you’ve once again more than fulfilled me...

Seriously, Franck, it doesn’t happen often, but I think I’m gonna print your travel journal and copy-paste it for my next trip! It’s absolutely stunning!! Your photos are gorgeous, and on top of the water and sand, there’s even a botanical garden 🤩.

Quick question though: I guess there aren’t any flights near Dahab to get to Aswan (so you’d have to go back through Cairo)? Christelle

Seriously Franck, it doesn’t happen often, but I think I’m gonna print your travel journal and copy-paste it for my next trip! It’s absolutely stunning!! Your photos are gorgeous, and on top of the water and sand, there’s even a botanical garden 🤩.

But quick question: I guess there aren’t any flights near Dahab to get to Aswan (so you have to go back through Cairo)? Christelle

Thanks Christelle! And ugh, it’s so frustrating to have to limit the number of photos! If you want more, just DM me for access to my FB posts.

As for your question, you’ll need to head back down to Sharm el-Sheikh, but the flights aren’t cheap...

February 16 - Day 8

When you make the effort to come all the way to Aswan, don’t skimp on a few extra hours of driving. Especially since those extra hours can give you access to a crown jewel. A jewel that would be in the seven new wonders of the world if it were up to me alone. In any case, in that selection, it deserved its place much more than the overrated Christ the Redeemer in Rio, the Colosseum in Rome, or even the pyramid of Chichen Itza—which I’d replace with Angkor, Samarkand, and, of course... Abu Simbel! But let’s not get into that debate and stick to the facts. What’s certain is that today, we’re heading to this temple of Abu Simbel—whether it’s a world wonder or not. Or should I say, the two temples of Abu Simbel, located at the gates of Sudan, in the far south of Egypt, in the Nubian desert. So, what made them famous? First, as you’ve gathered, I rank them in my top 7 because of their unparalleled and impressive architecture. Then, it’s thanks to the Egyptian government, which decided around sixty years ago to build a huge dam on the Nile to regulate the river’s level and supply a good part of Egypt with electricity. But there was a catch! The creation of the immense Lake Nasser would have sacrificed the wonders of Abu Simbel to the fish, who were thrilled by the news. That is, until UNESCO’s extreme movers stepped in, cutting the temples and the adjoining hill into large blocks to reassemble the puzzle identically one level higher. Challenge accepted! The dam was built, and Ramses II, the megalomaniac pharaoh, still has his temple in his likeness!

Megalomaniac or not, after 3.5 hours of driving, we’re standing in front of not one, not two, not three, but four enormous colossi of the pharaoh as a facade, crushing us with his divine power. Ramses II loves Ramses II and did it all for Ramses II. Unfortunately, over time, one of the imposing statues lost its head. "That’s what happens, dear Ramses II, when you’ve got a big head!"











Inside, Ramses II went all out with more Ramses II in every form! Statues, drawings, carvings... It’s absolutely magnificent! The site’s isolation and our early departure mean it’s not crowded, so we can snap a portrait of the place’s owner without too many sandal-sock combos or selfie sticks in the frame. Sure, there are a few Japanese tourists in evening wear with hearts in their eyes, only there for Insta photos, but nothing that disrupts the site’s endemic magic.

Day 8 (continued)





In the second temple, the one dedicated to Nefertari, Ramses II’s favorite—who do you think takes center stage there? Ramses II, of course!







Less impressive than the main temple, but you’ll still find hieroglyphs and frescoes of incredible detail with no protection—just two centimeters from our eyes. I get it, three for me since my nose is a little longer.





Either way, we’re loving it! Of course, there’s the guardian with a severe case of *bakshish-itis* who offers to let us pose proudly with the temple key, but it’s all in good spirits. Anyway, you’ve probably figured it out by now—if you haven’t visited the Abu Simbel temples before you turn fifty, you’ve missed out on life!

Day 8 (continued)

Back in Aswan in the early afternoon, we ask our minibus to drop us off near the unfinished obelisk for a quick Kodak moment.



Then, we hop on a tuk-tuk that takes us to the souk. After picking up two bracelets, two magnets, and four hawawshis, we finally jump into another tuk-tuk to head to the Feryal Gardens, where we watch the gentle ballet of feluccas and their large white sails gliding lazily on the Nile in the sunset light—a perfect ending to our two days in Aswan...

Amazing trip, amazing story (as always), amazing photos 👍—it makes me really want to go back 😊. Gorgeous sunrise at St. Catherine’s Monastery 🤩

Amazing stay, amazing story (as always), amazing photos 👍—it makes me really want to go back 😊. Gorgeous sunrise at St. Catherine’s Monastery 🤩

Thanks Isabelle! What’s coming next is even more unique in how we’re traveling… and sleeping 😉

If you haven’t visited the Abu Simbel temples before you turn fifty, you’ve missed out on life!

Phew! 😛

Three visits for me so far. The highlight was sleeping there at the end of a cruise on Lake Nasser—the boat was both alone and right at the foot of the temples.

I also remember visiting the backstage area, meaning the concrete shell the temple was reassembled on. It’s surprising!

A wonderful site.

Well, they pretty much all are, given how well preserved they are.

It’s a far cry from some ruined ruins where only an archaeologist can imagine what they once looked like...😏

If you haven’t visited the Abu Simbel temples before you turn fifty, you’ve missed out on life!

Phew! 😛

I’ve been there three times. The highlight was sleeping there at the end of a cruise on Lake Nasser, with the boat being both alone and right at the foot of the temples.

I also remember visiting the backstage area—that is, the concrete shell on which the temple was reassembled. It’s surprising!

A wonderful site.

Well, most of them are, given how well-preserved they are.

It’s a far cry from some ruined ruins where only an archaeologist can imagine what they once looked like...😏

I would’ve loved to see that! Any photos?

Oh no.

That was over 30 years ago, and I wouldn’t have been able to photograph those dimly lit backstage areas with my film camera back then. Plus, I’m not even sure it was allowed...

I was a travel agent at the time. It was a trip for professionals so they could promote the country. We must’ve gotten special access for the tour!

The view of the Feryal gardens makes me want to go back... Really liked your Egypt travel journal... and the solitude at Abu Simbel isn't easy.

The view of the Feryal gardens makes me want to go back... Your Egypt travel journal is really nice... and the solitude at Abu Simbel isn't easy.

Was your profile photo of the felucca taken from there? 😏 😏 😏

You're so right! Abu Simbel is an absolute marvel. The relocation of the temple was widely discussed in the 1960s; it made headlines in newspapers at the time. You can see in old documentaries the colossal work and the incredible ingenuity it took to achieve it. Everyone had their own solution, some completely absurd. In the documentaries, you can see the cutting of the stones and the reassembly. What’s more, the reconstruction successfully preserved the solar alignment that allows the sun’s rays entering through the long corridor of the Great Temple to fully illuminate three of the four seated sculptures in the inner chamber: those of Pharaoh Ramses II, Re (the sun god), and Amun. Meanwhile, the statue of Ptah, the god of the underworld, associated with darkness, always remains in shadow. This phenomenon, intended by the builders, occurs twice a year (February 22 and October 22), lasts 20 minutes, and draws crowds to the site. That was your cultural minute!

Don’t forget to return the key to the caretaker at noon!

You're absolutely right! Abu Simbel is an absolute marvel. The relocation of the temple was widely discussed in the 1960s; it made headlines in newspapers at the time. You can see in period documentaries the colossal work and the incredible ingenuity required to achieve it. Everyone had their own solution, sometimes completely absurd. In the documentaries, you can see the cutting of the stones and the reassembly. Moreover, the reconstruction successfully preserved the solar alignment that allows the sun's rays entering through the long corridor of the Great Temple to fully illuminate three of the four seated sculptures in the inner chamber: that of Pharaoh Ramses II, that of Re (the sun god), and that of Amun. And the statue of the god Ptah, deity of the underworld, associated with darkness, always remains in the shadows. This phenomenon, intended by the builders, occurs twice a year (February 22 and October 22), lasts 20 minutes, and attracts crowds to the site. That was your cultural minute!

Thanks, Jean-Claude! It's true that this civilization is fascinating, and not going to Egypt simply because of safety concerns (which are completely unfounded) is really a shame. I've been there twice and am already thinking about a future trip to the western part of the country...