Peru-Bolivia 2017: A Month in the Andes (page 3 of 8)

Hi Bruno,

I’m taking advantage of the weekend to jump in after Régis and catch up on reading this travel journal. Nothing specific about South America yet (just recurring desires), but your journal is a real pleasure to discover 🙂. I can’t wait for the next part 😉. Muriel

Hi Muriel (and Régis while I’m at it...) Now that my AFS-loving friends are here, I’ve got to make some progress... Especially since the site just posted my travel journal on Facebook ...

Day 13: The Southern Lipez

When planning this trip, I knew we were in for one of its highlights. I had read a bit, but not too much—I mostly tried to keep a fresh eye by skipping as many photos as possible from different travel journals and blogs... And I wasn’t wrong!

We had chosen TURISTUR LOS SALARES for this tour via email exchanges. First, because I’d read that you should start from Tupiza, and I can confirm—you ABSOLUTELY must start from Tupiza—and also because the reviews for this agency were generally good. A small family-run operation, they really pushed to have us complete the tour with them, bombarding us with emails as soon as our "Franco-Colombian" compatriots had booked theirs to fill the vehicle...

So, two 4x4s set off around 8 AM. A team of five young people from Toulouse joined us in one vehicle. Hernan, the driver and brother-in-law of the agency owner, and Saïda, his wife and our cook, would be our guides for this adventure in the second Toyota, which was gleaming (though that wouldn’t last...).



In the end, I found out (because I kept track of everything! 🤪) that we’d cover exactly 862 km over four days. But there were only four of us, so we took turns with the girls for the back seats and the more cramped "jump seats."

Our first stop was quick—up high near Tupiza to admire El Sillar. Impressive limestone (or maybe not) formations, the mountain was carved like lace...



We continued our journey across the Andean plateaus, the Awana Pampa. The drivers coordinated to avoid crossing paths, and we felt like we were alone in the world... with the llamas and vicuñas!



Lunch break at Ciudad del Encanto, another geological wonder whose secrets our high school science teacher (well, Saïda) would reveal... (though I admit I didn’t retain everything...). The logistics were perfect, and lunch served in the back of the 4x4 was fresh and hearty!





The journey continued in the afternoon. After visiting some mining ruins, the Pueblo Fantasma perched at 4,690 m, we reached the entrance to the Avaroa Natural Reserve. From there, a small detour took us to our first lagoon, Laguna Morejon, which brought us higher than Mont Blanc!!



We spent the night in QUETENA CHICO, where the 4x4s regrouped at a hostel with dorms and a common room. The shower was cold or cost 10 BOB. Saïda, our cook, worked wonders—except for her soup, which was *way* too salty.



We still took the time to pop open a bottle of cider (pineapple-flavored!) with our guides to mark New Year’s Eve, but the 283 km we’d covered that day, the altitude, and the 6 AM wake-up call cut our celebration short by 10 PM!!

Do you speak Spanish, Bruno? Because I’ll admit the language barrier is really holding me back for these countries 😅

As everywhere else, it's always better to be able to communicate in the local language.

My partner and I are a "round-the-world" couple: I speak English well and a bit of Spanish, and she speaks Spanish well and a bit of English. Good division of labor— the world is ours!! 😎

More seriously, all the locals we met who are involved in tourism speak some English. But since our Spanish is better than their English... After that, as soon as you step off the tourist trail, communicating in Shakespeare’s language gets trickier...

For this trip, with our guides on the tour, Spanish was the way to go, especially since the girls spoke it fluently and would re-translate for us when the driver spoke too fast....

Day 14: Happy New Year!!

And it’s at 4,000 meters above sea level that this new year will begin. The day had barely started when we set off after a hearty breakfast prepared by our head cook.



Back in the Eduardo Avaroa Reserve. Today we cross the park, starting with the Salar de Chalviri, then the Desert of Dali, heading toward Laguna Verde at the foot of Licancabur, a volcano towering 5,950 meters above it.



The day is all about wonder: as we move forward, the landscapes and colors we encounter, the stops we make, all compete in beauty. A breathtaking scene, heightened by our solitude, stretching to the edges of Bolivia and the gates of Chile.

I almost could’ve said, "From ridge to ridge, from slope to slope, every moment is a surprise, sometimes feeling like we’re gazing at these landscapes from an airplane window"—but the line’s already taken. (A nod to Cédric and best wishes to Christine! ;))







We regroup at a crossroads on the way up from Laguna Blanca for a stop at the hot springs. Here, at 4,000 meters, we bathe outside in 37°C water (it must be about 5°C out...) and can’t resist a souvenir photo in our swimsuits (but you won’t get to see it!). Don’t forget yours! After lunch, a quick stop at the Mañana geysers—volcanic lava over 200°C releasing steam that blends with the clouds.



Next, we head up to Laguna Colorada, another marvel of colors and solitude. Herman will drop us off by the lagoon, and we’ll walk along it until we meet him further ahead—and much faster, because a storm’s brewing!!



We stop at another hostel in Malcu Villamar. We’ve left the reserve behind, covering 259 km today, and we’ll head to bed quickly. We arrived early and got a private room!! With separate beds... ;) and a nice hot shower....

I almost could’ve said, "From ridge to ridge, from slope to slope, every moment is a surprise—sometimes feeling like you’re gazing at these landscapes from an airplane window." But the line was already taken... (Wink to Cédric and best wishes to Christine !😉)

Nice way to put it! 😛 Didn’t see that coming.

Thanks again for sharing—this corner of the world is truly unique, magical...

hi Bruno,

I’m really enjoying reading your Peru-Bolivia travel journal, and I can’t wait for the next part!

I’m currently planning a trip to Bolivia for next October, and I have a few questions:

How did you book the South Lipez-Uyuni tour? Did you just email them with your arrival date, for example? Is it absolutely necessary to write in Spanish? Did you also book your hotel in Tupiza at the same time? What was the price per person for 4 days/3 nights, starting in Tupiza and ending in UYUNI? (For a full 4x4 with 5 people)

Did you pay the full amount on-site in local currency, or was it possible to pay with Euros or USD?

Thanks for the info!

Best regards,

Philippe O

Hi Philippe, Thanks for the encouragement, it’s really appreciated!

how did you book the South Lipez Uyuni tour:

By email, actually, after checking out the agency’s site: www.lossalares.com/ I usually run it through Google Translate, but you can write to them in English (I didn’t even try in French, to be honest...)

did you also book your hotel in Tupiza at the same time?

The advantage of this agency is that they also own a hostel. They even offer the night before your departure for free.

what’s the price per person for 4 days/3 nights, leaving from Tupiza and ending in UYUNI? (for a full 4x4 with 5 people)

We paid 1300 BOB (170 €) per person for the 4-day tour. That includes the tour with a cook, meals, and drinks. Extra costs are park entry fees (150 BOB pp), hot springs (12 BOB), hot showers (10 BOB per shower—it adds up fast!), and if you want, a little tip at the end... But I know that for a full 4x4, prices are lower. Be careful, though—the agency is getting well-known, and to maintain quality, they don’t want to subcontract to independents (Tupiza Tours can send out over 40 vehicles a day!). They have 8 vehicles, and their booking calendar was already full for August...

did you pay the full amount on-site in local currency, or is it possible to pay with Euros or USD?

I booked 48 hours before, so yes, we paid the full amount in Bolivian cash. You *can* pay in Euros or USD, but you might get a less-than-ideal exchange rate...

Happy to answer any other questions—let’s keep the conversation going!

Day 15: The Magic Continues...

A bit more relaxed on this third day. Fewer kilometers—we’ll cover 169 today—and we’ll take our time heading up to Puerto Chuvica.

The landscape changes too. Fewer mountains, more rocky terrain, and we start with a few "curiosities" formed by the rock: the Copa del Mundo and its alter ego, "El Camello."





A lovely long stop in a fantastic cirque formed by volcanic lava, Laguna Negra. We observe the local wildlife—llamas, vicuñas, and other vizcachas, a very agile rabbit of the Andean plateaus.





We continue our journey with a stop at Cañón Anaconda, but my fear of heights keeps me from enjoying the spot! Still impressive....



Lunch on the grass with our llama friends, a nap, and some downtime at 3,500m, punctuated by the ukulele—a gift from our Niçoise friend in Bogotá to our driver (though he doesn’t know it yet).





The day’s journey ends with a final stop in Julaca, a no-man’s-land of five houses just crossed by the Uyuni-to-San Pedro (Chile) railway line.



The day is already fading as we arrive at the gates of the Salar, in Puerto Chuvica, where we settle into the dormitory of the salt hotel. Here, everything is made of salt—walls, floors, bed frames, tables, and chairs. The vibe is great, the camaraderie with the girls obvious, with three or four other groups joining us. Dinner, accompanied by a bottle of Chilean wine gifted by our driver, is relaxed and friendly. But lights out early—we’re waking up at 4 AM!

Day 16: The grand finale...

And nature truly put on a fireworks show for us today...

12,500 km², at 3,600 meters, over 10,000 years old, 40 meters of alternating salt and clay: the Salar de Uyuni... And it's 5:00 AM when we leave our hotel. No breakfast, but I still got my coffee before we left (I just can't do without it...) We speed through the pitch-black night at over 100 km/h, lit only by the Toyota's headlights—though Hernan keeps turning them off as a joke 😕. But he knows exactly where he's going; he's done over 300 tours... Isla Incahuasi (the Inca's house) is our destination after an hour of crazy driving. A tiny volcanic island dotted with huge cacti, we pay the entrance fee (25 BOB) and climb to the "summit" of the island. Well, we *run* to the top, the excitement is so overwhelming (we're total maniacs!!). And then, Mother Nature rolls out her finest carpet and invites us to the steps of her festival, renewed every day at sunrise over the Salar... Photos, but the magic is something you live—it can't be captured...





It's hard to leave this magical place, but breakfast is waiting for us down below. Then we glide, like a boat, across this ocean of salt. We're almost alone, and we stop in the middle of nowhere to soak in the vastness without a sound. Next up: a photo session with some crazy perspective shots using the camera...





Our next stop is the only salt hotel on the Salar, now a museum. Well, mostly a tourist trap we quickly escape from.



Final stop at the train cemetery, an old workshop from the golden age of railroads, before heading into Uyuni.



One last lunch prepared by Saïda, enjoyed in the back room of a hostel in town, then a quick stop at the Amaszonas office to change the girls' flight. Our hosts will accompany us all the way to the tiny airport in town. Emotions and hugs will wrap up this tour—the bond between this charming Bolivian couple and us has grown strong. Cathy even gives Herman her beloved ukulele (on top of a generous tip). A phone break in the airport lounge, the plane is announced—almost like a private jet—taking the four of us, not without a touch of nostalgia, to La Paz and new adventures!!

Aaaaah! It's so beautiful! 🙂 Muriel

Thanks Muriel, but it's true that the Southern Lipez/Salar de Uyuni combo is one of the most beautiful places I've ever seen...

Day 17: 650 ...

That’s the number of kilometers we have to cover by bus today—the distance between La Paz and Cusco... I had checked beforehand if an iron bird (a flight) could make this easier, but no, or at least not within my budget—international flights are a different story...

First, a recap of yesterday’s evening. We arrived in El Alto without any issues, and a taxi took us to the city center. The driver tried to overcharge us by 20 bolivianos compared to the initial price... Not cool! But we appreciated knowing Spanish to set things straight ("Los puntos sobre las íes?"). I have this silly principle (but it’s a principle!) of never staying in the same place twice to sleep. So, we recommended the San Andino to the girls, but I had already booked a night at La Posada de la Abuela Oddulia at the Uyuni airport for 35 €, right in the historic center. Well, it turned out to be a silly principle because the room, combined with our three Chinese neighbors who giggled all night and later regretted running into me the next morning 🏴‍☠️, made me regret not staying at the Sol Andino... The only upside was that the hotel’s patio had a few shops, including a travel agency that sold us (with a "parliamentary assistant’s commission"!) two cama seats for a direct bus to Cusco the next day—departure at 7:30 AM for 290 BOB per person (40 €). The guidebook listed it at 200 BOB!! Our last Bolivian evening was spent at Gladys’ place for one last pizza and tiramisu. Given the time, we didn’t feel like doing anything else. It was also our last meal with our two Nice-based travel companions—they’re staying in La Paz for a few more days before heading to Bogotá.

7:30 AM, La Paz bus terminal—already buzzing with activity. No issues boarding; we entrusted our lives to Nuevo Continente Internacional for the 11-hour trip. The bus was decent, not brand new (those tires!!), but the cama seats were comfortable. Destination: Cusco, via Desaguadero, the border crossing, Puno, and Cusco. ETA: 6:30 PM...



ETA, because in the end, we arrived in Cusco after 11 PM—nearly 16 hours on the road!!! 🤪 Not because the bus had problems, but because crossing the border—a simple formality at the Copacabana checkpoint a few days earlier—took us 4 hours: 2 hours on the Bolivian side for a stamp and 2 hours on the Peruvian side for another stamp... Add the rain while waiting (outside, of course) and the attempted theft of my girlfriend’s small backpack, narrowly avoided thanks to your narrator’s sharp eyes, and you’ve got the full picture!!



Luckily, the company provided a meal on the bus!! 😕



At Puno, the bus emptied out by three-quarters, so we took advantage of the space to move upstairs and claim two cama seats each—making the journey a bit more bearable. Still, 11 hours to go! We were dropped off quickly at Cusco’s bus station at 11 PM, and a taxi arranged by our host took us to William’s place (more on him tomorrow). After a quick shower, we didn’t last long before crashing...

This South Lipez is still an incredible corner of the planet! When I think that lithium extraction has been approved. 😕 Hurry up, those of you who still have doubts about this destination—the salar won’t stay like this for long...

Be careful, the agency is becoming well-known, and to guarantee quality, they don’t want to subcontract to independents (Tupiza Tours can send out more than 40 vehicles a day!).

Oh really? It’s not Uyuni either! In the middle of August, I didn’t see more than 10 4x4s leave on the same day. One of the perks of Tupiza! 😛

Yep, we’re still following your adventures... 😉

Day 18: CUSCO, the last part of the trip!! (la ultima parte del viaje)

But don’t worry, we’re staying for a week, so this amazing travel journal you’re devouring isn’t over yet . Sorry, I’m rambling...

Yes, Cusco—here we come!! First, a few words about our accommodation. We’re staying with William, a Toulousain in his 30s who lives in Cusco. He’s married to a Peruvian and has been a dad to adorable (and quiet) twin girls for 8 months. He just moved into a new apartment, a 10-minute walk from the historic center, in the city part of Cusco. There are 4 bedrooms, each with a private bathroom, which he rents out for 120 soles (25 €), including breakfast. I found him on this forum and the Routard one, we communicated by email, and I booked for 4 nights. The biggest perk, aside from the great price and his friendliness, was knowing I could count on him to organize our week—and he did an amazing job. Except, and this is on us, we’re no longer cut out for shared accommodation. We’d already realized this in Italy and France (via Air, you know who), feeling uncomfortable staying with others, especially when they’re around—even more so with babies and their grandparents (admit it, that’s a lot of people!!). Hotels, hostels, or even youth hostels have this impersonal quality that lets them feel like yours, and you can actually relax there... So, thank you, William, for your kindness, advice, and availability, but this isn’t our thing anymore.

With that settled, our day was all about logistics. First, a sleep-in to recover from the trip. At 9 AM, we debriefed with William and set up a plan for the week based on the sites we wanted to see. I added my two cents, having done some reading on the subject. Top priority: Machu Picchu tickets! Since nothing was booked, William directed us to one of his friends who runs a travel agency. He promised to sort it all out for under $300 per person, 😕 arguing that combining train tickets and Machu Picchu entry on the spot was nearly impossible... But I still remember the bus scam in La Paz, and I wasn’t falling for it twice. So, we set off to get those tickets for our Andean adventure. Luckily, the different counters were empty, and in no time (well, 2 hours), we had it all sorted. The total? 175 € per person, ladies and gentlemen!!! 😎 Though, to be clear, that doesn’t include collectivos or minibuses...

The rest of the day was spent exploring the city center: Plaza de Armas, the tourism mecca, the Cathedral, Plaza San Francisco, and the San Blas neighborhood, where we found (via TripAdvisor) an amazing crêperie run by a Frenchwoman (Sarah) that delighted our taste buds (the crêpe, not the Frenchwoman...). We continued our city tour, checked out some souvenir shops, and ended the day with a relaxed stroll. For dinner, we enjoyed a sublime ceviche at a small, reasonably priced tourist restaurant. Oh, one last thing—the rain made a comeback... Cusco is in a basin, and basins fill up. But the storm passes, and another follows, and the rain became our companion for a good part of the week...

It’s still an incredible corner of the planet, this Sud Lípez! When I think that lithium extraction has been approved. 😕 Hurry up, those of you who still have doubts about this destination—the salar won’t stay like this for long...

As you said, what an incredible corner of the planet... Regarding lithium extraction, it’s not just approved—it’s already started, according to our driver, in more remote parts of the salar. For those reading, the Salar de Uyuni holds nearly half of the world’s lithium reserves, the metal essential for making batteries for our phones or our (future) cars... Needless to say, the pressure is intense...

Oh really? It’s not Uyuni either! In the middle of August, I didn’t see more than 10 4x4s leave on the same day. One of the perks of Tupiza!

The thing is, departures from Uyuni are becoming so frequent that more and more people are spreading the word... After all, there were 3 vehicles leaving on our tour...

Thanks again for following!

Hi Montagnard74, Thanks for this awesome travel journal!

...07:30, La Paz bus terminal...Heading to Cusco via Desaguadero, border post, Puno, and Cusco. Scheduled arrival at 18:30...Scheduled because, in the end, we didn’t get to Cusco until after 23:00—nearly 16 hours on the road!!! It wasn’t that the bus had issues; it’s just that crossing the border, which was a simple formality at 18:50 at the Copacabana post a few days earlier, took us 4 hours—2 hours on the Bolivian side for a stamp and 2 hours on the Peruvian side for another stamp...

What day of the week were you at the Desaguadero border? I think some days are busier than others.

...Express drop-off at Cusco station at 23:00, and a taxi arranged by our host took us to William’s place...

great choice for your stay in Cusco. JLMA

hi Montagnard

In your trip report, you mention that 120 soles equals 25 € (for us, that’d be more like 34 or 35 €). What exchange rate did you use for that? Best,

Hi Bruno,

I can confirm I’m devouring your travel journal 😄😄😄😄—thanks so much for sharing!

Myriam