Incredible India, here we go again!! (page 3 of 6)

And we're still going... with joy and good vibes 😄 !!

ORCHHA the stunning

This morning we left Khajuraho for Orchhâ, still by car because the train schedules are awful and my finicky bladder won’t let me take buses (yes, I know, you don’t care about my bladder 😉 )!!

We drove for a while on a national road, surrounded by tuk-tuks, cars, trucks, carts, cows, dogs, bikes, goats, and pedestrians—just your typical scene!!

Suddenly, the driver asks, "Do you want to see a castle?" "Uh, yeah, why not" (well, first it was "What do you think, Loulou? Dunno, what about you? Dunno either, but let’s check it out" ??).

And just like that, we left the main road for a bumpier path, and less than a minute later, we were blown away!!

A gorgeous lake framed by two ancestral Maharaja forts (no idea what year they’re from—our driver’s a driver, not a guide, hehe), buffaloes grazing peacefully, greenery, and a small hill with beautiful rocks in the background. So peacefulhh!!

Yeah, okay, there’s only one of us in the photo because the other one didn’t fit in the frame!

"India is like islands of paradise in the middle of hell"—I don’t know who said it, but I use that line a lot because it’s *so* true!!

Anyway, we’ve arrived in Orchhâ—or rather, 2 km before the village, where we’re staying.

I haven’t talked about our accommodations so far because, honestly, we don’t really care where we sleep, but we’ll make an exception this time.

Here, it’s not a guesthouse or a hotel—it’s an authentic Maharaja palace (well, an old hunting lodge, from what we gathered), totally preserved in its original state.



A massive rectangular building lined with over 50 doors, a rooftop walkway where you can stroll and admire the nearby Betwa River, with a pristine English garden in the center and an exotic one featuring three ancient little temples and a small pool (empty when we arrived, being cleaned on the second day, half-full on the third, and perfect by the last day 😛)!!







The nearby Betwa River



So far, so good—but the exceptional part is that *everything* looks absolutely period (though we’re no experts, but it sure seems like it!!). The furniture, all the woodwork, the elephant paintings on the bedroom ceilings, the portraits of Maharajas’ lives, the azulejo walls, and even the *electricity*!!



I *loved* charging my phone on that thing!!



To top it all off, every evening, three musicians set up in the garden to play traditional music with tiny cymbals (I guess?), a djembe, and a harmonium that clearly played for the Maharaja back in the day—it looks *ancient*!!



And all this—*I kid you not*—for the price of a first-class hotel back home (though with the ongoing renovations, this deal probably won’t last)!!

Of course, as you know, you can’t have the butter *and* the money for the butter... I’ll let you finish that thought.

So for that price, we also often got:

- Peeling paint and marble floors with stained ceilings (we *did* say it’s period),

- Nonstop construction (sometimes noisy) and solvent smells so strong you’re afraid lighting a cigarette will cause an explosion,

- Thousands of insects swarming at nightfall, jumping into your hair the second you get near a light (and a few in the room too!), smelling like stink bugs when you squish them (which is inevitable, there are *so* many),

- A shower with such low water pressure you end up washing with a bucket,

- And a toilet that breaks down, forcing you to change rooms (after you’ve already made a mess—otherwise, what’s the fun?)!!

Honestly, we didn’t care about any of that, especially since we were almost the only guests and everyone was *so* nice. So we ended up staying four nights (a new record!)

And now you’re probably thinking, "Okay, this is all great, but you didn’t come all this way just to stay in a hotel." And you’re right—I won’t argue with that!!

So, Orchhâ, the town.



Tiny by Indian standards (7,000 people) but dotted with grand monuments (yes, I know—*again*, and I’m saving the Taj Mahal for last!).

Two palaces side by side, *massive* (400 rooms each)—one for the Maharaja and his family, the other for his guests!! Built between 1500 and 1700, they were once covered in blue "azulejos," precious stones, and colored glass!!



And that’s when you *get* the phrase "palace of a thousand and one nights"—the explorers lucky enough to see this back then must’ve been completely dazzled (ahhh, how I wish I’d been there!).

But don’t get *too* excited—today, they don’t look the same at all because UNESCO hasn’t made it here!! My guess? They’d go bankrupt restoring all this!! Still, the scale is still there, all the sculptural work too—it’s *monumental*.



The town also has several Hindu temples, including one huge one, and 14 chhatris.



Alright, one more cultural tidbit. When a Maharaja died, he was cremated, and they’d build a monument in his honor on the same spot. In India, they call it a *chhatri*; where we’re from, it’s a *cenotaph* (don’t worry, we’re happy to learn new words too 😉 ). So, 14 Maharajas passed through here, but *that’s it*. Like our kings of France, there are no more Maharajas in Orchhâ! (Well, not the same ones, anyway—though sometimes it’s *just* like that with some people. Oops, sorry, I’m rambling!!)



Yeah, no doubt about it—every time you look up, it’s beautiful. But what we loved *most* was the vibe and the welcome we got here.



Like in every town we’ve been through, Orchhâ also has pilgrims who come to pray at the temples, and *with them*, we’re a huge hit!! It’s all smiles, namaste with hands joined, and the same few questions: "Where are you from?" "Ahhh, France!" "Can we take a photo (or a selfie, for the younger ones)?" They come from far away—or sometimes just 20 km down the road!



In short, it’s pure joy to get lost in the alleys of this town, especially since the women here are even more beautiful and vibrant than elsewhere (yes, *that’s* possible).



And then there were the fake "babas"—we didn’t see many in Varanasi, but they were here (well, 3 or 4, anyway)!!

For those who don’t know, the ones we affectionately call "babas" are actually *Sadhus*—quasi-saints revered by the locals, who dedicate their lives to religion and always have "a sacred look," as we’d say back home!

There are the real ones (who never approach us tourists) and the fake ones (who give us big smiles and expect a little gift).



We had a blast with them from day one—"Isn’t my French baba handsome?" I’d say, pointing at Loulou’s long hair 😄. And they’d laugh and greet us later with a "Hello, French baba!!"

We had some hilarious moments with them—real or fake, we didn’t care in the end (besides, I’m a fake tourist too, since I’m a social worker 80% of the year!!).

Alright, the end is coming soon, friends, but not *quite* yet—Agra’s waiting for us!



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Hi Christelle,

That castle you stayed in was a really cool move. I love your self-deprecating humor, and I get a kick out of your adventures. I guess it’s not as funny when you’re in the middle of it, but afterward, you only remember the best parts. I know that from experience—happened to me plenty of times!!!

If after Ladakh next year I feel like visiting northern India, I’ll know exactly which travel journal to revisit!!! Thanks so much.

I guess it must be less fun when you're actually dealing with it, but afterward, you only remember the best

Well, that’s one of the magical effects India has on us—no matter what happens there, we just don’t care (obviously, I’m not talking about major issues)!! Actually, I’ve noticed it’s not the same in other countries we visit, and it’s pretty inexplicable to me!!

Thanks for your encouragement, by the way!

I just discovered your travel journal on AF (planned destination with no fixed date), and I’m going to savor it with great pleasure (and it’ll take a while, given the 20 pages 😉)!!

Looking forward to catching up with you here, Diamina, and sending hugs to Martinique (an island close to my heart since it was my first solo long-haul trip at 19—a *huge* revelation of my love for travel 😎)

Your story makes me really want to go back to Varanasi. 🙂 Orchha too! 🙂

Well, go for it Alain!! Down there, lots of people asked me: "Are you coming back soon, Stalingrad?" 😄😉

Well, that's one of the magical effects India has on us—no matter what happens there, we just don't care (obviously not talking about major issues, though)!!

For me, it's South America that has that effect!!! We've been there three times already, and I'm already dreaming of going back, even though we were there just last year!!! But first, Ladakh next year.😄

Yep, it just confirms that the destination we visit has nothing to do with it 😉!! It’s really our own story and personal feelings that shape how we perceive and experience any given country!

Yep, it just confirms that the destination we visit has nothing to do with it 😉!! It’s really our own story and personal feelings that shape how we perceive and experience a country!

Some say it’s about our past lives—or even our inner lives... Anyway, that’s what Indians keep telling me about my desire—and my decision—to LIVE IN INDIA

And me, reading all this just makes me even more excited! What reassures me is that after reading your post, I feel less worried. I was wondering, will we enjoy the north as much as the south, in terms of the people??!! The north is way more touristy than Kerala—won’t the culture shock be too harsh??!! But it seems like we have a similar approach: "The world is like a mirror—if you smile at it, it smiles back!" People first, connections, interactions—the rest, we’ll adapt (well, I hope so). Can’t wait for the rest!

the north is much more touristy than Kerala,

Just so you know: Kerala has become "The French Riviera" for Indians. Rich and not-so-rich... — just like in Nice and elsewhere —

"The world is like a mirror; if you smile at it, it smiles back at you!"

Tweet-tweet, little birds... My daughter recently told me: "Life only brings you what you can handle" when talking about the hassles we encounter... I replied: you could’ve said that to the people deported during the war... And to those living through real suffering all over the world... Try smiling at an ISIS killer... let’s see if he’ll smile back or slit your throat... No malice intended, but... I couldn’t help reacting. Christelle’s gonna say again: he’s grumpy sometimes...

Good evening, I love this site because most of the time, it has lovely shared experiences, info without too many prejudices, and precious advice when visiting a country like Peru or India for the first time, etc., etc. Rephrasing what I wanted to say: "explore the world without prejudice, without thinking you're better than others, connect with the people you meet without judging, and you'll bring back so much more than photos and visited places, no matter how beautiful they are." As for Kerala, in 2010, we had some wonderful exchanges with the locals, and indeed, we stayed away from overly "touristy" spots. Anyway, we don’t know each other, but I’ll admit I was a bit feisty about that—your previous exchanges were more my style. I hope you won’t hold it against me.🤪

Come on, we don’t know each other, but yeah, you were a bit feisty this time—I actually preferred your earlier exchanges. Hope you don’t hold it against me. Crazy!

Why always label someone as negative just for being realistic? Is reality really that scary?

Oh no, Marien isn’t grumpy—it’s just that you and I, Corinne, have a "tweet-tweet little birds" approach to life (and personally, I’m proud of it!). With experience, Marien has a darker, much less idyllic view.

That said, I’d say it’s also about personality. If I meet nine jerks and one lovely person, over time, I only remember the latter 😛!

So yes, my takeaways are super "naive" because that’s who I am. I only keep the best, and the jerks, the drama—I forget them (and I don’t even do it on purpose)!!

And of course, you can’t have the same feelings when you spend 15 days in a country versus living there. Marien, who lives there, is fully immersed in reality, while you and I are a bit in a dream when we wander around!!

Anyway, I’m amazed by all our common ground because, going back to your second-to-last post, we were also apprehensive about the north of the country. We actually waited for five trips to India before feeling ready!!

It’s very personal, but I’m glad I waited before visiting Varanasi because it really shook me the first two days—it’s like stepping into another world, so far from all our usual references (and that’s why I ended up loving it so much!).

About the "locals," the first big difference from the south is their "damn yogurt-like English"—it was *so* hard to understand (I’ve lost count of how many times Loulou and I looked at each other like two idiots: "Did you get that?" "Nothing, you?" "Nada," and we’d ask the question again!!).

But in the end, by taking our time and using gestures, we always manage (and the poor things get so flustered when we don’t understand, trying other ways to explain... without always succeeding!!). Let’s call that a minor detail.

For the rest, as expected, the north is definitely tougher than the south, I found (but that’s *very* subjective—plenty of people won’t agree with me).

In places where white people are never seen, the stares are harsh and hard (probably reflecting their living conditions), and you really have to put in effort to lighten the mood.

After that, I think it’s all about interpretation. If we see their stares through our Western lens, we assume they’re all big bad wolves who mean us harm!!

Personally, I’m pretty convinced it’s just their way—admittedly intimidating for us—of expressing curiosity.

Of course, people will bring up the rapes in India that made global headlines. But there are 1.4 *billion* people here. My guess is that proportionally, there are way more assaults in France without making the front pages!!

Anyway, we never felt unsafe, and as a woman (I often walked alone), I found them particularly respectful.

That said, we also sensed more tension between locals than in the south (the train scene in Varanasi was *really* shocking to me because of its violence), and we saw people yelling at each other multiple times!!

But otherwise, everyone who works with tourists is adorable and super attentive, and running into pilgrims in "high spirits" was a real joy throughout the trip.

As a passing tourist, I’m convinced people mirror your energy. If you’re grumpy, you won’t attract many smiles or kindness.

But hey, that’s just my personal take—everyone does their own thing!!

And the huge luck we had was traveling off-season, so the hassling was probably less intense than when Western tourists are everywhere!

So, Rajasthan, which didn’t really tempt me because of the "tourist pressure"—well, we’ll go with pleasure, off-season 😉!!

Good evening, friends

Well, here we are at the final stretch!!



The Taj Mahal in AGRA... and everything they don’t tell you!!

Yep, today I’m gonna spill the beans on what’s behind the postcard!

To be honest, we really hesitated about coming here because when I read the Routard and Lonely Planet at home, they didn’t exactly make me want to jump on a plane:

1 – “Agra is the most touristy city in the country, and the Taj Mahal is one of the most visited monuments in the world, with 15,000 people... per day.” I mean, I love people one-on-one, but crowds? Hate ‘em!!

2 – Since tourism is pushed to the max here, “don’t expect to make meaningful connections in this city—you’ll just be seen as a walking wallet.”

3 – “You’ll get scammed everywhere because they’re *especially* creative here.” And they back it up with stories from a few years ago when some restaurant owners were *intentionally* poisoning tourists so clinics could bill their insurance!! The embassies eventually uncovered the whole scheme!!

With all that, we weren’t exactly thrilled.

But Agra was right on our route, and seeing the Taj Mahal in person? Worth a little effort.

So off we went by train, arriving Thursday evening.

I think Shiva, Krishna, Vishnu, and co. decided to punish us for our hesitation because we *completely* forgot that the Taj Mahal is CLOSED on Fridays!!

Oh, the geniuses 🤪!! That’s next-level cluelessness, especially since we’d both read it ages ago but totally blanked!

Well, we’ll adapt like we always do.

So Friday was Baby Taj and the Red Fort, and Saturday was the Taj Mahal at dawn, then a 3-hour drive to Delhi and our midnight flight to Paris. At least we’ll sleep well on the way back!

When we arrived, we took a stroll around the city—super clean. We were 1 km from the Taj, on a paved, almost pedestrian-only street. If it weren’t for the sewer smell everywhere, we might’ve thought we were on the Champs-Élysées—everything was *that* spotless 😉!

At nightfall, we headed to a rooftop and met a couple from Cognac who were on a year-long world tour. Obviously fascinating (especially since Jordan had the gift of gab), and super helpful because they gave us tons of great tips for visiting the Taj 😛!!

The next day, we flagged down the first tuk-tuk we saw, Salim, who offered us a totally fair rate for the day’s tour. Super nice, even if he *did* try to sell us the whole package (shop visits, “manufacturing” tours, sunset at “the middle of nowhere”...).



We politely declined everything (with a smile—and multiple *no*s), and he even came to say goodbye when we left. Not holding a grudge (okay, the tip *might* have helped 😄).

So Friday, we visited the mini Taj Mahal—adorable, really.



And the massive Red Fort, packed with hundreds of Indian tourists—and that was awesome. Hindus, Muslims, Sikhs, all dressed in their “Sunday best.” The real India.



Because we totally forget in the West that this country has a middle class that travels, and millions of people way richer than us (they’re 1.4 *billion* people, after all!!).



For our last night in India, we found a local restaurant for our final thali.

When we walked in, there were 40 young guys at tables, and some came over to chat nicely.

Too bad you weren’t there to bet on where they were from—I challenge you to guess!

Turns out, they were from Bangladesh! University students aiming to become “businessmen,” touring the country for ten days.

Super friendly, but after warm goodbyes, I hear Loulou say: “For all we know, they’re the sons of the crooks who exploit kids in collapsing buildings!” “Uh, thanks, honey, for that *positive* note”—how to kill the vibe in 10 seconds 🤪!!

Well, here we are—Taj day!

5 AM, pitch black, Chouchou and Loulou still half-asleep, and we’re the *first* ones there—yay (won’t last long, don’t worry!!).

Loulou queues at the ticket booth while I wait 100 m away at the entrance gate.

The soldier on duty says: “Wow, you’re here early!” “Well, yeah, I’m only seeing the Taj Mahal once in my life!”

Then Indians arrive, three Chinese (one girl who’s hilarious and super friendly), some Frenchies, Americans—the whole world, basically.

As the clock ticks, the tension rises.

Four lines: two for men, two for women.

In the Indian men’s line, they start pushing!!

The Chinese girl asks every minute: “Can we go yet??” “No, wait,” we tell her!!

You can’t help but feel like you’re in the starting blocks at the World Athletics Championships 😛!!

Then the massive doors open.



No stampede because you’ve got to go through security: pat-downs, bag checks (lots of stuff is banned)!! Thanks to Jordan’s briefing, we only had our camera.

Once through security, the Chinese girl *can’t* resist and starts running... but she’s not the only one!!

There are three entry gates to the Taj, all converging at a central point facing the monument.

After security, you see the crowd running toward you from the other side.

No way—tell me this isn’t happening!! But it is, and it’s September, *off-season*!!

Only the Westerners and “Asians” are running—the Indians keep their dignity (though we speed up a bit 😉).

And there we are, in the first 50, let’s say. Luckily, it’s spacious—no fights for photos!!!

So yeah, we *did* get the Taj to ourselves... for at least 10 seconds 😛!

A glance at the serenity sold by the tourism industry.



And the reality at 7 AM 😮!



No denying it—it’s stunning, with those dimensions and all that carved marble—but honestly, all the chaos around it? What a circus!!



But it *is* breathtaking!!



And no, the sun doesn’t rise *in front* of the Taj—it’s to the right 😉.



So yeah, we’re really glad we came, but it wasn’t our favorite part of the trip—even if Agra wasn’t as terrible as we’d feared!!



Well, that’s it, folks (don’t cry 😄)!

A huge thank you to everyone who added soul to this travel journal—because a journal without feedback is *so* boring for me!

Next March, we’re off to discover Cambodia—we’ll see if I’m as chatty!!

Obviously, if you’ve got questions, I’m all ears!!

Now it’s time to get back to work 😛

Hugs, friends, and thanks for following along

See you soon for new adventures 😉

Thanks so much for this hilarious and self-deprecating travel journal!!! See you soon for the next one and more crazy adventures!!

Thanks again for this wonderful trip, described with both humor and realism. For Cambodia, I have a cousin who stayed there (she was accompanying her husband) for several weeks, multiple times. She might have some info. If you need it, I’ll ask her, and we’ll see if she can get back to you. See you soon for your next travel journal. 😄

Thanks Christelle for this "incredible" travel journal!!! I really enjoyed it!!!

Thanks so much for this awesome travel journal. It's really great with beautiful photos and a thrilling, lively story.

Thanks to you girls, the guys are less polite—they just take off without saying goodbye 😉.

See you next time on VF!

Christelle