Why South Africa? A simple example! (page 3 of 12)

A set of maps... more readable?

In addition to the stunning access route, what a magnificent hike that lets you enjoy several 😇 lakes! It’s now on my shortlist 😉, along with the Didima area and Moncks Cowl - Sphinx in Champagne Valley. And thanks for all these new super-detailed maps 🙂

A promise made is a promise kept.





You won’t run into anyone... you might catch a glimpse, from afar, of the reserve guards.









Well, I guess you’ve figured out that I really like this place?

And I’ve only done a small part of the hikes on offer!!!!!

Wrap-up...

This spot is underrated...

Most people head to Royal Natal, Giants Castle... and overlook this central Drakensberg area.

Less touristy, more "authentic", more "real"... Well, that's just my opinion.

Personally, I think rushing from one site to another only lets you pass through... sometimes, you need to stay a while.

This central Drakensberg lets you see this area but also easily visit Giants and Champagne on a day trip... and it's nice not to haul your suitcases around every day.

So... give this spot a try... I hope I’ve tempted you!

And (they’ll tease me for this!) like the Lions Head hike... it’s worth it!

Okay, I’ve done what I could... maps... some promo... photos!

What (and they’ll laugh!) like the Lions Head climb... it’s totally worth it!

I’ve got to admit, we did it during our Cape Town stay thanks to your advice—which turned out to be spot-on 😉! I can’t remember which thread I read it in, but since then, I’ve realized there’s more than one... 😛

Alright, I did what I could... maps... ads... photos!

There’s already one family convinced, and you really made the prep easy 😎!

Hey Michel,

That’s a great sell! 😛 🙂

Thanks for making our mouths water like that, and thanks for the super practical maps! 🙂

I’m convinced too—it’s too bad we can’t add it to our itinerary.

I totally agree with you. It's a country full of surprises that you can't stop thinking about once you've left. You definitely dream of going back every year.

Heading to St Lucia...

Still a very classic route, heading to Maputaland / Isimangaliso while avoiding Durban (Durban, which has an increasingly bad reputation).

So? Mooi River / Greyton then full south on the national road. This gives us the chance to cross Zulu country. The trick is navigating through Mooi River to get to the other side of the national road and the railway line.

The country is changing...

I’ll come back to this, but the country is changing—and fast, in my opinion.

On this cross-country route, the first thing that surprises me is the absence of shacks and the near-disappearance of townships / slums. The buildings are very different—even luxurious... when you plan a garage for two cars... when you add columns... it means you’ve moved beyond just a functional home to one that’s also about pleasure.



We’re far from the "hut" with one door and one window, made of mud brick / concrete that was common in the early 2000s.



Most houses now also have a bit of land around them.



What worries me is the chaotic construction and the waste of arable land.

It’s like someone tossed a handful of pebbles, and wherever they landed, a house was built.



The roads have improved... there are now sidewalks to protect pedestrians... with paved paths running alongside the roads.



Likewise, 20 years ago... a car = white people, or if a car = Black people, that car = a wreck on wheels. That’s no longer true at all.

On the other hand, you can still tell when you’re entering a town

white side



or Black side

Awesome, thanks for this goldmine of info!

Awesome, really interesting! I'm in too! Thanks ;)

Hi Michel, I’m following your travel journal with even more interest since we’ll be in that area—from Giant Castle, we’ll head to St Lucia. You mention Moï River / Greyton. Could you tell me if you know the road connecting Giant Castle to Moï River and what condition it’s in? And then toward Greytown? We really want to avoid Durban, and your comment about the city confirms my thoughts. Thanks for all the info—your journal is a real goldmine. Christine

The roads were good just over a month ago

We loved hiking up Lion's Head and also visiting Augrabies Falls Park. Seems like we have the same taste in hikes, so we should definitely do the Drakensberg together! 😉

Thanks Michel for the super detailed maps and explanations. 🙂

St Lucia...

St Lucia is a small town between the sea and the estuary. It's the gateway to iSimangaliso.

A small "seaside" resort... 18,000 beds currently... only 22 houses are occupied by actual residents who aren’t running guest houses. You’ll find all kinds of accommodations and restaurants at every price point. Main activities = the beach, fishing, whales and/or turtles, all the estuary activities (croc and hippo tours, including by canoe...) and, of course, iSimangaliso!

You can imagine how busy it gets during the South African holidays... Right now, at the end of May, it’s quiet, really quiet.

I love this little town—it always feels like a return to civilization.

Surrounded by the estuary on one side, you have to cross a bridge to get there. Hippos are part of the town’s fame, with their frequent nighttime escapades right in the city center... and sometimes even during the day!





Walking around at night should be done with caution in the center and is strongly discouraged in the outskirts and dark areas!

By the way, about half a dozen leopards are known to be active in this area.

Mongooses aren’t dangerous, though!



On the other side, there’s a beach to die for. The sea is rough, violent... sharks lurk... and the water is usually as cold as Brittany’s.

Construction work at the estuary’s mouth has made the famous path connecting the southern part to the beach disappear. You can still access the ski boat club, though.



You can no longer drive to the different beaches either (see the map at the start of the travel journal).

The Mtubatuba/St Lucia road has been renovated... it used to be extremely dangerous due to the many souvenir vendors (they’ve been relocated).

No hippo or croc hunting for us...



Well, first off, there’s only one morning outing because there aren’t enough tourists—and tomorrow, we’ll be gone. Last week, there was a huge downpour... water levels are high, so high that they canceled outings because we couldn’t get under the bridges!

No whales either, but that’s just because I didn’t realize the season had started! All we saw was the boat on the beach.

Speaking of the beach...

Clearly, there’s a school outing. Two buses of kids/teens and adults who look *exactly* like teachers.



Except... the sea here isn’t calm—it’s more like Basque Country in high winds...

Meh, the teachers aren’t too worried... Luckily, there’s a rescue guy...



The two or three supervising have let the others do a group braai!

The water’s *super* choppy but warm (tempting—let’s go in!). Gotta say, there’s hardly anyone here!

The white Zulu...

As some of you know, I’ve been studying Zulu for a few months now. Last year, I was a bit frustrated—they were speaking more Xhosa or Afrikaans...

But this year...

Well, at the GG, it was Sotho, the African language.

During our stop at the Antbear, I started getting pretty good with one of the employees, but in St Lucia...

First at the supermarket with the cashiers... who ended up clapping, and then I kept going at the St Lucia post office to buy stamps... Practically ended in a stadium-style cheer for this story! (No, I’m not bragging, not at all—I’m just sharing, telling, informing...).

Anyway, big wave of sympathy for this foreigner who made the effort to learn the language. I’m at a level between kindergarten and first grade... but if you think about it...

Good evening,

What worries me is the anarchy of construction and the waste of arable land.

We threw a handful of pebbles, and wherever each pebble fell, a house was built.

So true. I was also struck... and worried by that.

On the other hand, you always know if you're entering a city

on the white side

or the black side

That too...

Thanks for your travel journal, I’m really enjoying it.

Review of St Lucia.

It's often an essential stop, whether just passing through or staying a while.

The vibe is great and the options... varied.

Anyway, we're heading further north.

Towards Tembe.

Tembe—I've driven past it several times, tried to go there multiple times, researched the topic, even sent people there (who were happy, by the way), but me? Nothing...

Managed by the Tembe community with the primary goal of protecting elephants, this massive reserve (around 60,000 hectares compared to Hluhluwe's 100,000 ha) has only a portion accessible to visitors. For just over 10 years, it's been home to lions, as well as buffaloes and antelopes. It's a reserve deeply involved in biodiversity research. It's also a forest growing on sand—a sand forest.

You can visit it for a day or even solo. Just be careful—you'll need a 4x4 because the sand is deep.

For us, it's the private reserve version with game drives, accommodation, and meals.

Tembe

Watch out for cows on the road!



The vibe is meant to be a private reserve.

The camp is fenced (well, when the rangers close the gate... there are still lions, which will be part of my "reservations" about this reserve). Accommodation is a luxury tent with a big bed, indoor and outdoor showers, etc... you can even get massages.









Sunset drinks around the campfire... in short, a luxury bush vibe. Welcomed with a song by the whole staff (cook, etc.)... Nice... And I got a reply in Zulu... with everyone surprised (I know, I'm showing off).