USA 2018 - Las Vegas, St George, Bryce, Kanab, Yellowstone, Moab: SUV + RV trip – mosquitoes in the North, storms in the South (page 3 of 7)

Hi Julien,

We didn’t see it (but we didn’t look either, since we passed through without too much trouble). It’s too bad because an older man turned back before us because he didn’t want to risk going over the step. If we had known, we would’ve told him about it. 😛

About Bull Valley Gorge, Christelle had read something about this trail being a bit more intense than Willis Creek (VF travel journal and/or West USA): the guy had to turn back for some reason I can’t remember. Worth trying on our next trip! !😇

Thanks for your message about the Aragon travel journal... Rest assured, I read one of your journals very often (especially White Domes.... 🤪)

See you soon, JF

I’ll post our Day 8 tonight: Yellow Rock and then back to Las Vegas to pick up the rest of the family! !

J8.1: Monday, July 2nd: Kanab -> Yellow Rock Trail -> Las Vegas (536 km)

Woke up with a start at 6:10 AM—the alarm was supposed to go off at 5! 😮We left in a hurry, kids with ice packs, parents loading the car! 😎 This morning, we headed back toward Cottonwood Road to do the Yellow Rock hike. The Coral Pink Sand Dunes were on the agenda, but that big yellow dome had caught our eye a few days earlier. We arrived at the Hackberry Canyon trail parking lot at 8 AM—the 20°C temperature was perfect! First, we descended the dry riverbed, then climbed through the scree. This part, even though it was still mostly in the shade, was the toughest physically—it was steep, *really* steep. Louenn said he had "his heart beating in his head"! 😎 Once we reached the top of the scree, the view opened up to a multi-colored plateau with the big yellow mountain in the distance… 😮



We reached the summit around 9:30 AM, making sure to take landmarks for the return (though there were plenty of cairns). It was very steep there too. The rock colors were incredibly varied, and the view was breathtaking. We took a moment to enjoy the site, snacking on cereal bars with a 360° view.

By 10 AM, with the temperature rising, we headed back down and appreciated the final stretch under the trees, as it was already 32°C. Photo limit of 20 reached. More to come! Christelle and JF

J8.2: Monday, July 2: Yellow Rock Trail -> Las Vegas

We pick up the trail at a faster pace, then the road to Kanab. Our evening stop is in Las Vegas… After Fredonia, we cross an Indian reservation: the landscape is desert-like, with only spiky bushes dotting the sandy plain scorched by the sun, far from any civilization. A few scattered tin shacks, some run-down trailers with pickups here and there… But how do these people live? What jobs do they have? Where do they shop? Where are the schools?… We’ll ask ourselves these questions many times during our trip… A quick picnic in the shade at a park in Hurricane is a must. Then we hit the road again—it’s still a long way to Las Vegas! We pass through St. George again and the gorges of the Virgin River before tackling the desert surrounding Las Vegas once more. Long before we spot the suburbs, we notice the casinos on the Strip. At a temperature of 111°F (43°C), our first stop in Las Vegas is at a car wash to get rid of the red and gray dust from the trails we took. We learn the hard way that it’s smarter to wet the car before applying the foam… Next to us, we watch in disbelief as a guy polishes his tires (the rubber, not the rims…)—Americans really have a love affair with their cars!!! 🤪🤪 In the northern suburbs, we drive through an area where dozens of homeless people are squatting on the sidewalks—it’s near a Catholic charities center. Shortly after, we head down the Strip, what a stark contrast! After stopping at Walmart to grab dinner, we head to the airport to pick up Papoune and Mamoune, the grandparents. We also meet up with Christophe, Delphine, and Yohan, the cousin, who arrived three days ago. Since it’s P’s 76th birthday, the welcome happens in front of the baggage carousels with a loud rendition of Happy Birthday! 😎 Like any good Breton who’s moved away, my brother pulls out a homemade *gwen ha du* for the occasion! We head to the hotel—our big Yukon easily fits the two extra passengers along with their two large suitcases and two backpacks. We grab a quick bite in one of the rooms, everyone sharing their travel stories and mishaps (C&D&L, traveling from CDG to LAS via Charlotte, missed their connecting flight…). The cousins catch up, then it’s dishes, a quick load of laundry, and bedtime—except for a few brave souls (JF, D, Y, and L) who head back out to the illuminated Strip!





Lesson of the day: The best of Yellow Rock

See you tomorrow for the next part! Christelle and JF

Long Horn Casino Hotel, on Boulder Highway toward Henderson, an unbeatable rate of 34 € per night per room, spacious and clean rooms, comfortable bedding, fridge, pool, no breakfast. The lobby is smoking-friendly, which explains the lingering smells in the hallways…

J9: Tuesday, July 3. Las Vegas -> Snow Canyon State Park (250 km)

When we woke up around 6 AM, we were surprised to find Louenn had fallen out of bed and was sleeping in his suitcase!! Sharing a queen-size bed in the previous hotels hadn’t always been easy for the brother and sister, and this doesn’t bode well for the much smaller RV bed. The group meet-up was scheduled for 8 AM at the nearby Denny’s for breakfast—a feast everyone was looking forward to! We all enjoyed it, and with full bellies (a 1,550-calorie breakfast, no less), we went to pack up our suitcases. Around 9 AM, after a call to Cruise America, we learned our appointment wouldn’t be until 4 PM!!! We carefully reread the contract, which clearly stated “First arrived, first served.” Yet, according to them, we should’ve called yesterday, and it was a "busy" day (the day before July 4th).

Disappointed about the rest of our schedule (less time at Snow Canyon and no sunset), we decided to grab some groceries at the nearby Walmart to at least get that done. Then we invaded the rental office with our groceries and suitcases, waiting over 3 hours in hopes a slot would open up. It *was* a busy day—the lobby was packed, and the staff completely ignored the “First arrived, first served” policy clearly written in our contract. We passed the time watching the French presentation video, then the guys went to return the GMC at the airport. That GMC had been flawless—comfortable and spacious (7 seats)... Thanks, Hertz, and another big thanks to Jpg13 for your great advice.

Finally, at 4 PM, the first RV was ready, and we got all the explanations in Canadian French (the manager was from Montreal). Then the second vehicle came out of the garage, and we left around 5 PM—everything loaded in a rush, with the manager’s apologies for the delay. We made one last stop at the airport to drop off C&D’s car and headed toward St. George. There was heavy traffic leaving North Las Vegas, plus major construction. 🙁 We stopped for gas at the Moapa Indian Reservation. There was a long line of trucks and a concert being set up—we saw a stage and lots of security, plus police reinforcements. Total chaos! We took the opportunity to share the leftover sandwiches from the day before, then hit the road again. We sped all the way to St. George—lots of wind, lots of trucks, and we floored it to make it to the campground on time.

We arrived at Snow Canyon at 9:55 PM, just five minutes before closing at 10 PM. Our spots were waiting for us on a big board at the campground entrance. 😎 It was hot, and everyone was exhausted. We still had to unpack, put away the groceries, and make the beds...

But this first step of the second part of our trip was complete: reuniting with our two RVs. Now we’re nine Bretons traveling from the western lighthouse to the Far West (great call, Jean-Luc!). 😎

Lesson of the day: disappointment with Cruise America Las Vegas, especially the leaking toilet drain plug, the unusual front tire wear, and the check-in violating the contract. But setting those issues aside, the vehicles still did their job: letting us sleep as close to nature as possible in the parks and witnessing beautiful sunrises and sunsets with family, campfires, and marshmallows flambéed with Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Honey.

Snow Canyon Campground, booked and paid for 4 months in advance on ReserveAmerica—showers, restrooms, drinking water, dump station, stunning setting, and so quiet!! Amazing!

Next up! Snow Canyon State Park -> Cedar Breaks State Park -> Kodachrome Basin State Park (263 km) Christelle and JF

Hello, good evening.

"From the West Lighthouse to the Wild West" is the title of a book I wrote in 2014... The phrase also appears in the title of my website: "Menbrial" (West Lighthouse - Wild West).... www.menbrial.com/

Day 10.1: Wednesday, July 4. Snow Canyon State Park -> Cedar Breaks National Monument -> Kodachrome Basin State Park (263 km)

Waking up to the cool morning in such a setting delights everyone! It’s true that it’s beautiful, and like in 2014 at the Grand Canyon, the silence is almost overwhelming!!! A real luxury! Everything is glowing around us!! 😇😎 What a treat to have a relaxed breakfast in front of this spectacle and in peace!!! Well, relatively peaceful since we now have three juniors with us... 🤪 We have breakfast quietly in the shade of the mountains while watching the colors change with the sunrise. As we leave the campground, we drive through the park from end to end to enjoy this beautiful chromatic palette. It’s stunning but fleeting—the heat is already returning! At the park exit, we explore Whiterocks Amphitheatre, a short and pleasant hike to start the day. After a 15-minute trail, we arrive at a small white cirque that’s fun to climb. Papoune shows us his personal method for descending steep terrain safely—though not exactly textbook, it’s effective and safe! 😎 Back at the RVs, we hit the road. The juniors gather in the C25 with Christophe and Delphine. We make a quick stop at Snow Canyon Overlook, which offers a complete view of this small park. 😉 In Cedar City, the streets are decorated for the 4th of July (though we’re a bit disappointed—we expected way more decorations on individual houses for America’s Independence Day). 😐 After filling up on gas and grabbing a few groceries, we head up to Cedar Breaks National Monument, a last-minute addition. The mountain road (14 then 148) is covered in flowers (lupins, currant bushes, scarlet paintbrush). The coolness at 3,000 meters is really nice. 😎 The stop at the tiny Visitor Center lets us buy the second park access pass we need for our trip. There are telescopes available to see Venus and the sun. It’s 1:30 PM, and the juniors’ stomachs are growling, but all the picnic tables are taken. We hit the road again, looking for a place to stop—first a little farther, then even farther. We end up having lunch around 3 PM in a meadow. The adults’ stomachs were starting to rumble, and the kids were getting grumpy! From now on, we’ve set up a simple system for lunch: everyone serves themselves buffet-style from the table set up in one of the RVs. We’ve expanded the menu a bit! Salad, cucumber, tomatoes, cheddar, flavored ham (honey, smoked, etc.), chips, hard-boiled eggs, different dressings, and always shredded carrots! No cooking, no service, minimal dishes—perfect. We won’t waste time on meals and can still enjoy the often beautiful surroundings. When Louenn pulls out the chairs from the storage compartment, he finds a small headlamp stuck in an armrest. He’s thrilled! We continue toward Bryce with a few photo stops, then head to Kodachrome Basin State Park, but unfortunately, we don’t have time for the Mossy Cave hike. 😕

Photo limit of 20 reached See you next time for our arrival at Kodachrome! Christelle and JF

I just took a quick look at your site—great photos!! Is this your job? JF

Day 10.2: Wednesday, July 4. Cedar Breaks National Monument -> Kodachrome Basin State Park

We arrive at Kodachrome around 6 PM, where a charming ranger is waiting for us. When we get there, the light is gorgeous, but we can see a cloud bank rolling in. The campsite, located in the middle of a basin, is really nice with small trees around the picnic tables. Right now, barbecues are prohibited.

The sun has set, and the heat is bearable. Part of the group stretches their legs on the Nature Trail. We’d have loved to do more, but time is short—we’ll have to come back! Then it’s a rush to the (huge) showers! After the traditional apéritif, we have steak and slightly sticky rice while watching a decent sunset. It’s 10 PM when we head to bed. The sky is stunning—we can admire the Milky Way. But Christophe and Christelle try taking photos without success: they’ll need to adjust their settings!

Lesson of the day: The amazing Kodachrome campsite we arrived at too late (we’ll have to come back!)

See you for the next part!(Kodachrome -> Scenic Byway 12 -> Brigham City) Christelle and JF

Kodachrome Basin campsite, booked and paid 4 months in advance on ReserveAmerica, showers, restrooms, drinking water, dump station, FULL

Day 11: Thursday, July 5. Kodachrome -> Scenic Byway 12 -> Brigham City (599 km)

We got up around 6:30 AM, it was chilly (15°C). We had breakfast (in front of a stunning natural sculpture!!! 😇) and hit the road ahead of schedule. We had 10 hours of driving on the agenda, not counting stops!! We started with Scenic Byway 12 and its many photo stops: barns, Escalante, Hogback, and the recommended overlooks. It’s such a beautiful and well-known route that it doesn’t need any introduction. 😎

This time, the three cousins were in the C30, working on their travel journals. Before heading back down to Torrey, we stopped for our salad buffet in the cool mountain air at 2,700 meters. Harleys and trucks waved at us—some photos coming in the next post.

We then began the long drive back up toward Salt Lake City. The landscapes were quite varied: from red to green to almost lunar. We drove through a burned area still under surveillance. It’s a ranching region, with lots of cows and irrigated meadows, but also a lavender field! Roadwork was underway, and a piece of gravel caused a small chip on the windshield. That chip turned into a crack about ten centimeters long, which we kept an eye on 😠 (for info, this crack only cost us $212 when we returned to Cruise America, which is reasonable given the size of the windshield)🙂. Before getting on I-15, we filled up the gas tank, and JF forgot to put the cap back on. Luckily, my brother was watching from behind! Driving through Salt Lake City was endless and unpleasant (basically 2 hours from the first slowdowns, with sections where RVs and trucks passed us on both sides of the 5-lane highway!!!), punctuated by ads for insurers, doctors, and dentists. Eleven hours after leaving Kodachrome, we arrived around 6:15 PM at the KOA in Brigham City. The kids jumped into the pool first, followed by JF, Christelle, and Papoune after setting everything up. The campground isn’t anything special, but it’s well-located for a short stop before reaching Yellowstone. In the pool, some Americans were swimming with T-shirts on... 🤪

We did laundry (the laundromat was supposed to close at 8 PM), showered, and had dinner as night fell. A warm wind picked up.

Lesson of the day: The leg was just as long as in 2014 but necessary if you want to combine Yellowstone with the southern parks. Thankfully, we were four drivers, allowing us to take turns.

Camping Perry South KOA in Brigham City, booked and paid in advance on the KOA website. Laundry, showers, full hookups, Wi-Fi, pool, FULL

Day 12.1: Friday, July 6. Brigham City -> Jackson Hole -> Flagg Ranch (434 km)

We leave at 7 AM via Logan Canyon on US-89: just like in 2014, we love this route. The light is beautiful, the temperature is cool, and the green, flower-filled landscapes contrast sharply with the dryness of the day before!! We’re starting a second journey!

Unfortunately, a heat haze slightly obscures the beautiful Bear Lake. We see that all boats, rafts, and canoes being transported must be inspected and disinfected before going further. Rangers are there with their pressure washers. There are lovely homes of all kinds by the lake, but with two vehicles, it’s not easy to stop every 500 meters to take photos! Especially since the RV’s large mirrors make it hard to snap quick shots without getting out. The houses seem more decorated around here. We pass a lot of trucks.

Today is also the day of the France team’s quarter-final: we follow it on our phones as signal allows. And when we arrive in Paris (time zone), we pose like winners!

We continue our journey, passing ranches and the meanders of the Snake River. When we arrive in Jackson Hole, it’s very hot, almost noon, and we quickly find two parking spots not far from downtown. We grab a quick lunch because we have a photo session appointment at Old West Photos. The session is a lot of fun—we discover each other dressed as cowboys in different styles or in long dresses. The chosen setting is a saloon, and they hand out guns and whiskey bottles. JF picks chaps covered in faux fur!! Then the photographer starts. First serious, then smiling, the shots follow one after another: the whole family, the cousins, the women, the men… We spend a good half-hour there and leave with some great sepia-toned memories. Afterward, we take a very quick stroll through town—it’s crowded, and unfortunately, the little hat shop Hat and Co has closed.



20-photo limit reached! More to come soon! Christelle and JF

Day 12.2: Jackson Hole -> Flagg Ranch

Then a stop at Boot Barns lets us find hats for the kids and some clothing souvenirs (cowboy shirts and jeans). The cowboy boots are gorgeous but impossible to wear in France!!! And the selection is huuuuge!!🤪

We do our shopping at Albertson’s: now we need to stock up before entering Yellowstone. Once again, we’re left baffled by the logic of how Americans organize their supermarkets: paddles in the yogurt aisle.... 🤪😮 Leaving town, we spot a large herd of bison and then the stunning view of the Grand Teton mountains.

After several photo stops, we arrive at Flagg Ranch campground. It’s full like all the others, but this time we had a reservation! For info, all the campgrounds in Colter Bay were already booked 9 months in advance!!! After calling the reservation service, I learned that bookings for all campgrounds in GT and YNP open 11 months ahead... You’ve been warned!! 😎

It’s already pretty smoky from the barbecues. By the time we shower, the mosquitoes are already attacking, and they’re genetically engineered to pierce through clothes... We enjoy our bolognese and ice cream inside the largest RV. The night is chilly.

Lesson of the day: Bring heavy-duty mosquito repellent!! And remember that ALL campgrounds in GT and YNP are always full!!

See you for the next part! Christelle and JF

Flagg Ranch Campground, reserved and partially prepaid (with some difficulties on their Grand Teton Lodge Company site), showers, barbecue, full hookups, laundry, FULL We tried to book at Colter Bay this year, but the system now opens 11 months in advance, and it was already full!!!

Hey JF,

- Yellow rock: you’ve got some real "goats" with you!!! They go anywhere and climb everything!!! Kudos for training them like that...

- CruiseA in Las Vegas: nothing’s changed since 2009 (see here):

blogs.crespel.me/usa2009/2009/08/04/

- However, the contract clearly states that you MUST call the day before (and it’s implied...) because "First come" really means "First phone..."

I’m getting back to reading this great travel journal.

PS: And I found the Cowboy photo shoot in Jackson... such a cool idea!

See you later!

For Cruise America: got it now... First come, first served! But it’s not easy to call the day before if you’re on a plane... we did what we did 4 years ago—called the same morning, but it was already too late... And avoid booking your vehicle on a "busy day" (here, the day before July 4th—we hadn’t thought of that at all). It was much quieter on the return day. Otherwise, the team on-site was very efficient and friendly, especially the Québécois manager! Christelle

- However, it’s clearly stated in the contract that you MUST call the day before (and it’s implied...) that "First come" means "First to phone..."

You’re almost right, but mostly wrong!! That might have been the case back in the day... But it’s 2018 now!!😉

The contract we signed with CruiseAmeriCanada (not exactly CruiseAmerica, it’s a sort of broker) clearly stated "First come, first served"... I’ve got it right in front of me! When we talked about it with the French-speaking Canadian manager, he said he’d call CruiseAmeriCanada to get it corrected.

Cheers, JF

Hey JF, - Yellow rock: you’ve got some real "goats" with you!!! They go everywhere and climb anything!!! Kudos for training them like that...

😎I get that you’re comparing my kids to goats!! We agree you’re not talking about Christelle, right?!!! Sure enough, we were lucky they agreed to walk—let alone enjoyed it!! We’re so lucky!!

Have a great evening, JF

Ha, ha,

Yes and no...

Back when you were much younger... the "central reservation" for CruiseAmerica in France (Christine) wasn’t yet called "cruiseamericanada".fr and then .com.

And to this day, on their site, in the FAQ, you’ll find:

What should you do to get to the station? You must call the station the day before or the morning of your rental to let them know you’re coming. Never arrive at the station without calling ahead.

... Vehicle pick-up always takes place in the afternoon, between 1:00 PM and 4:00 PM, and drop-off in the morning, between 9:00 AM and 11:00 AM. Any delay will be charged at $25 per hour. Late pick-ups and early returns are non-refundable.

So yeah, it could definitely be clearer!

See you later,

😏 Between the broker's website and the voucher I personally received from Cruise America, it seemed safer to trust the voucher, which was crystal clear. In short, in any case, we got one of the two RVs late. And in the end, it was the overall aging condition of both RVs that stood out, in addition to the toilet drain leak and the abnormal wear on the front tires.

As Christelle mentioned, the day was busy but the staff on site were friendly.

While waiting for Day 13 to be posted online, here are a few mechanical issues we ran into during our trip... No logic here, just for the pleasure of the eyes and a shout-out to MaryElectra...🙂































See you soon JF

Day 13.1: Saturday, July 7. Flagg Ranch -> Yellowstone Canyon (104 km)

We wake up leisurely, and since it’s a bit chilly, everyone has breakfast in their RV. We decide to take a short walk along the Snake River, which borders the campground, where we spot prairie dogs and a multitude of small birds.

We leave around 10 AM to enter Yellowstone. The park’s budget must have been cut because there’s no longer a French-language newspaper (like in Zion and Bryce, by the way). The entrance road is nice and green, with a river flowing through the middle! Our first stop is at West Thumb: colorful hot springs, a lake, a sulfurous smell, a female elk, and a swallow’s nest. Everyone’s happy with this appetizer! 🙂

We have our buffet stop a little farther along the lake.

Near Bridge Bay, we encounter our first traffic jam due to a massive elk by the roadside. A ranger asks us to park farther away, then thanks us and points out a second, even larger male. 😮 Next, we visit the small Fishing Bridge Visitor Center, where we buy Junior Ranger booklets—time for the kids to get to work! These booklets provide information about the park’s nature and features and ask kids to answer questions, solve puzzles, and draw. Once completed, they return the booklet to the rangers, who, after a pledge in English 😉, give them a small badge and a patch. The kids loved the idea—they’d later do the booklets for Canyonlands and Dead Horse State Park too. 🙂 We then head toward Hayden Valley. There are lots of bison by the road, especially at Mud Volcano, where they’re blocking roads and paths, causing major slowdowns! By accident, JF’s sunglasses fall under the boardwalk into "Dragon’s Mouth Spring" and melt in seconds right before his astonished eyes! It’s packed here, and the parking lot is full.



Photo limit of 20 reached!! More to come. 🙂 Christelle and JF

Day 13.2: Saturday, July 7. Flaggranch -> Yellowstone Canyon (104 km)

After the walk, we cautiously return to our vehicles. A ranger mentions that the bison herd in this valley numbers 300, and there are 3,000 in Lamar Valley! We also spot a large number of geese along the Yellowstone River.



We make our way down to Upper Falls for a first glimpse of the canyon and then head to the campsite. Our two spots aren’t next to each other but are close. We stay for two nights. Unfortunately, there are mosquitoes, and we spend the evening swatting them away! We try every product from our various first-aid kits, but these are tough ones—they even bite through clothes. We also test all our soothing ointments…

Still, we settle in at a reasonable hour this time around the barbecue to enjoy ribs and marshmallows flambéed with whiskey, honey-flavored (Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Honey)—a recipe created during our last trip!!



Lesson of the day: Yellowstone mosquitoes are genetically jacked up on testosterone!

See you for the next part! Christelle and JF🙂

Canyon Campground, booked and partially paid for in October for July via Xanterra (apparently, you can now book more than a year in advance—we almost got caught out!). 2 free showers per day per site (at the campground entrance), laundry, dump and fill-up station at the exit, restrooms, and drinking water on each loop. FULL