Here and there... my walks in the land of pralines, couques, and gosettes.. (page 3 of 9)

D'First, it's best to remember that paradise beaches aren't around here. What we call the Belgian coast stretches about 66 km, from La Panne to Knokke. In other words, it's heavily developed. Since they couldn't build outward, they built upward, and the result isn't exactly pretty—just rows of apartment blocks with shops and restaurants over and over.

Personally, I love the Belgian coast for what are probably considered its downsides. Very built-up, very popular, very "utilitarian"—the Belgian coast has charm precisely because of its flaws. You see apartment blocks, crowds of people, kids, and funfairs, but also elderly folks in their little flats with views of the waves or the streets behind. You see wind turbines and ports. The water is brown, the waves are nice, the beaches are fairly flat and sandy, and every now and then, you spot a few seals. There’s lots of wind and it’s often chilly, even in summer. All this makes it a unique place with a rather unusual coastal vibe. It’s a shame there’s no room for a bit more "wildness," but you just have to cross the border to the north to find a stunning region in the Netherlands that perfectly complements its Belgian counterpart.

The ports of Antwerp, Ostend, and Nieuwpoort are places I love returning to regularly. In Nieuwpoort, don’t miss the *carrelets* (small fishing huts) you can rent by the half-hour or hour, lined up along the beautiful wooden jetty. Kids love them.

In short, Belgium really has a lot to see—and especially Belgians to meet.

Thanks for this lovely description of the Belgian coast and its vibe 😉.

I also really love going to Ostend, in every season.

When you leave Ostend station, you immediately find yourself facing one of the basins of the marina.





Walking further into the city, in the next basin on Pensjagerstraat, you can visit the ship "Le Mercator". (From October to April, it’s only open on weekends; otherwise, from May to September, you can visit it every day.) This three-masted ship was a training vessel for the Belgian merchant navy between 1932 and 1960. For two years (1934–1935), it carried a scientific expedition to Easter Island. It was also the ship that brought Father Damien’s remains back in 1936. For me, it was a wonderful, unexpected visit.

In winter, you can alternate walking by the sea with warming up in one of the many bistros. For that, the pier is something of an institution, with its restaurant at the very end. When I went to Ostend last spring (April 2018), I was pretty disappointed to find it under construction. It dates back to 1837 and needed reinforcements. The first phase was completed, and you could walk on it again. The work was supposed to finish in May 2019, but I don’t know if that’s the case. Guess I’ll have to check it out in person 😉

Here it is before the renovations (it’s 650 meters long): Instead of my favorite little pub last year, I found this 😮

Every now and then, along the Albert Promenade, you’ll find a 19th-century villa sandwiched between two modern buildings. Only a few remain, now protected. Here’s the Villa Maritza:



It always feels a bit odd, but it’s part of a walk in Ostend, which, let’s not forget, was once the Queen of Beaches 😎

Further west along the Albert Promenade, you can stroll along the Royal Galleries. For the history buffs, they were built between 1902 and 1906 by order of King Leopold II, designed by the French architect Charles Girault. (And practically speaking, they’re a great place to escape the wind when it’s too biting 😛)





Art lovers can also visit the Mu.ZEE, every day except Monday, from 10 AM to 6 PM, dedicated to Belgian art since 1830. (I can’t say much more about it since I haven’t visited yet.)

If you love flowers and visit Belgium in April-May, you can take some beautiful floral walks starting from Brussels—perfect for a nature break between city visits.

For example, you can head to the Floralia of Groot-Bijgaarden. Groot-Bijgaarden Castle is just 7 km west of Brussels, in Flemish Brabant. To get there, you can take tram line 19 from Brussels or come by train if you're not driving.

Every year, around a million bulbs are planted by the castle’s gardeners. They’re replanted annually since the displays change from year to year.

The next "Floralia Brussels" event will take place from April 4 to May 3, 2020. http://www.floralia-brussels.be/fr/floralia-brussels/

Another springtime floral walk is Halle Woods, about fifteen kilometers southwest of Brussels. You can stroll there in any season—on foot, by bike, or on horseback—but what’s made Halle Woods world-famous are its hundreds of hectares covered in wild hyacinths around late April and early May. I first visited in the early 1990s and was amazed by those purple clouds seemingly floating above the ground. The sight was unexpected and free for the few visitors back then. Nowadays, there are many more visitors, and a marked trail has been set up, though you can still wander off the main path onto side trails.

During the hyacinth blooming season (theoretically from April 13 to May 5), De Lijn bus 155 stops at Halle Woods, and a free shuttle runs from the train station. Since crowds and parking issues are common during peak times, you’ll probably be more comfortable using public transport (I think).

Really lovely, and I’m adding this to my agenda for April–May.

And for December–January, what’s there to see and where should I go in your flat country? I love the autumn and winter vibe there, but I’ll admit that apart from grabbing a fish soup and a glass of white wine at the Noordzee and wandering a bit in the Ardennes, I don’t do much besides staying in Brussels.

Good evening,

December–January: lean months for walks for me too, thanks to the cold, rain, gray skies, and short days.😐 Still, I head to the Forêt de Soignes once or twice every week. Today, I was there right during the two sunny hours of the day.😛 Even without sunshine, I still go. The frost is beautiful on the ground and trees, and of course, the snow when there is some.

Those who love Christmas markets can find them in most towns now.

For visiting a city—big or small—these days, I plan an indoor activity for the middle of the trip.

Okay, not much to add then. At the Christmas markets, I heard about the one in Bruges?

Just one more thing about Ostend: you can also explore it by following in the footsteps of Marvin Gaye, who lived there for two years (Arno actually knew him pretty well back then). It was a place where he could rest after a tough period in the US. He loved it and it helped him regain his strength before...

...falling back into the arms of his demons and then being killed by his father not long after returning to the States.

Hello Moushik, have you heard of Notre-Dame à la Rose in Lessines? While the town of Lessines itself isn’t the most attractive, its old hospice is incredibly rich and worth a trip. It’s twinned with the Hospices de Beaune. Also, La Louvière and its Center for Engraving, where there are often amazing exhibitions. Thanks for this lovely travel journal!

Hi Anne! 🙂

No, I didn’t know about it, but I just found this:

https://www.notredamealarose.be/

...and I’ve added this place to my list for my next walks 😉 It looks full of treasures. Thanks!

A visit for this winter then—Magritte was born in Lessines, but apart from a plaque on his birthplace, there’s nothing about him there.

Good evening Moushika, La Louvière is just as dreary as Lessines, but besides the engraving museum, it’s worth checking out the Strepy-Thieu boat lift http://walloniebelgiquetourisme.fr/fr/produit/attractions/activites/patrimoine-industriel/ascenseur-funiculaire-de-strepy-thieu-tresor-fluvial-en-wallonie/3231. Happy exploring! Anne

Thanks! This part of the country has its share of treasures. On the other side of the Sambre, there are the Lacs de l'Eau d'Heure, on the Eau d'Heure river, straddling the provinces of Hainaut and Namur. A really beautiful region.

https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lacs_de_l%27Eau_d%27Heure

True, it's best to take advantage of the good weather for Eau d'Heure 😊.

A few words now about pralines

In Belgium, a praline is a "chocolate creation", or in other words, a filled chocolate bonbon.... Pralines can be filled with cream, praline paste, dried fruits, coffee, marzipan, butter, caramel, and many other ways, depending on their creators. Some are made entirely of chocolate. If they’re sold in a box, the box is called a ballotin.

The inventor of the praline is the chocolatier Jean Neuhaus, in 1912. The Neuhaus house, for its part, has existed since the mid-19th century and still has its headquarters in Brussels.

There are many Belgian chocolatiers now. Among the most famous: Pierre Marcolini, Passion Chocolat, Planète Chocolat, Léonidas, Godiva... and of course Neuhaus.

So, how do they make them? I found an explanatory video from the chocolatier Planète Chocolat:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=haJJvZ2v04U

Hi there,

For chocolate lovers, I recommend those from Dominique Persoone (only 2 shops: in Bruges and Antwerp). It’s a bit pricey, but the flavors are really unique.

In France, we have the chocolatier Jeff de Bruges, who I don’t think has anything Belgian about him!

Thanks for the info, Titouette.

I didn’t know Jeff de Bruges. According to Wikipedia, the company is French in origin, but the products are made in Belgium. https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeff_de_Bruges

I didn’t know the products were made in Belgium. In any case, I haven’t seen this brand in Belgium, but it’s pretty much everywhere in France, and their chocolates are actually quite good.

Me neither, I’ve never seen that sign in Belgium..... international agreements...

Another excellent Brussels chocolatier, not very well known, is Van Dender https://www.vandender.eu/fr/1-accueil Their shop is located on the chaussée de Louvain near Place Dailly. You can also find their products in some supermarkets.

Belgian chocolatiers are numerous now. Among the most famous: Pierre Marcolini, Passion Chocolat, Planète Chocolat, Léonidas, Godiva... and of course Neuhaus.

I really like Galler—there’s one in Paris.

As for Jeff de Bruges, it’s actually unknown in Belgium 😎