Mimi and Maumau, Martine and DD Return! Or the Denver-Denver Loop of the 4 Friends (page 3 of 17)

Instead of coming here to criticize others about their travel journals, I don’t see why you’re on a travel forum if you prefer paper guides. When you’ve got nothing interesting to say, do like me (just look at my post count)—shut your mouth.

Oh wow!! Stay calm, friends, stay calm!!!! !!! !!! !!! I usually always respond calmly to unpleasant posts, even if sometimes some people really deserve to be put in their place because we're here to share, not to argue!!! Like in life, I prefer not to retaliate so as not to escalate things because I hate conflicts. Come on, let's shake hands, give each other a smile, let's not talk about it anymore and forget everything!!! Martine 🙂 Thanks Joss for your somewhat forceful intervention 😉

Hello

As a rule, I never engage in discussions about such comments. I’ve had them on my travel journals, and I ignore them.

Because these round trips are harmful to the journal, those who read it, and those who write it.

For my part, I can’t wait to read the rest because, beyond discovering new places, there’s the atmosphere and the way of writing, which is always different.

Needle’s Hwy Scenic Drive Since Custer is a state park and not a national park, the Pass isn’t valid, and we paid the $10 entry fee for the car. Before driving its 22 km, we wanted to go to Mount Coolidge Lookout to see the Crazy Horse Memorial from the tower. Well, we didn’t find it! We took the right road after the West entrance as shown on the map, but we quickly ended up on a closed road with no signs. Even Here We Go couldn’t help us. We decided not to waste time looking for it since we had planned to drive the Wildlife Road late in the afternoon. Oh well, we’ll see it only when heading back down to Custer. Very quickly, we come across our first bison, calmly grazing just a few meters from the car. It barely lifts its head while we snap away. What a magnificent beast! It’s impressive.

The road continues its leisurely path through grassy prairies. We’d love to stop and roll around in those tall grasses!

Soon, the prairies disappear, and the road winds upward through pine and spruce trees. We pass through the first tunnel. Then, little by little, the landscape becomes more and more mineral as the forest thins out. The rocks grow taller and more prominent, and we start seeing needles in the distance as the switchbacks tighten.





Sharp needles, fairy chimneys, rounded rocks that look like beehives! Green, blue, stone blending with the trees! Cathedral Spires, Iron Tunnel, Needles Eye Tunnel, Little Devil’s Tower, Black Elk Peak—even the names take us on a journey!













Why don’t we have time to hike?! Once again, the snow, thaw, wind, and rain have cooked up a fabulous show for us. Soon, the granite spires seem to form a guard of honor as the rock closes in around us. Needles’ Eye Tunnel! How narrow is it?!

And Needle’s Eye??? Well, you won’t believe it! We didn’t see it! Goes to show you can never prepare enough for a trip, no matter how many hours you spend planning! I only realized it when I was trying to find the exact names of the rock formations. My English played tricks on me again! I didn’t realize it was the name of a specific rock formation called that because it’s pierced like the eye of a needle! We drive through the peaks and needles until we reach the lovely Sylvan Lake, where we won’t linger. After a few photos, we continue on Route 87 heading north to join the road that will take us to US Hwy 16. A denser forest surrounds us as the rocks move away from the road. Final stop at the viewpoint overlooking the entire valley. Before reaching the parking lot of Crazy Horse Memorial, where we’ll capture—from a distance—the beginnings of the sculpture of this Native American chief who didn’t want his photo taken.

5 PM! We’re back in Custer. Since check-in at the motel is possible until 10 PM, we head straight out to tackle the 30 km of the Wildlife Loop Road as planned.

Wildlife Loop Road A quick stop at the beautiful and informative Peter Norbeck Visitor Center where a magnificent Bull Snake (apparently harmless) gave us the scare of our lives.

We hit the paved road!! Where are the animals???? Not a sign of a bison, a pronghorn, or even a little donkey!!!! Following the advice of Voyage Forum regulars, we left the main road to take the dirt tracks. We had planned to do a loop: first Road 3 (Oak Draw Road), then Road 4 (North Lame Johnny Road), Road 5 (Swint Road), and finally Road 2 (Fisherman Flats Drive). Since Oat Road was closed, we decided to continue on Fisherman all the way to the end. What great advice to take the dirt roads!!! It’s a wonder at sunset—we cross green meadows full of little flowers.





The funny little heads of prairie dogs pop out of their burrows,

Bison are everywhere by the dozens.



We see red everywhere—the colors are warm and contrast with the green of the gently rolling meadows. The prairie dogs entertain us with their antics, and we even spot baby bison!!!

Suddenly, a little white behind and twisted horns!!! A couple of pronghorns are watching us!!!

We’re alone in pure, untouched nature!!! The sun is setting, the shadows grow long—time to go!!!! We come across a wild turkey and a final herd of bison!!!



Uh-oh!!! We’re not feeling too brave—do we go through or not?!!! We decide to drive calmly behind them and then alongside to pass them!!

A few photos out the window and we’re off!!!

Soon it’ll be pitch dark, and we check in before heading to dinner on our host’s recommendation at the excellent restaurant The Four Fathers (not cheap). $167 for 4 craft beers and 4 huge bison steaks, just a few dozen meters from the Rocket Motel. Custer Park, criticized by some, was a real highlight for us. Maybe because it was our first wildlife park. Lying in bed, I think back on our day—it was so rich!!! Even the weather was on our side: beautiful, warm, and as a bonus, that last road and all those animals at sunset!!! Tomorrow, we sleep in the Badlands!!!!

Hi Martine,

Bull Snake (apparently harmless)

I can confirm, it does seem to be a Bull Snake and it’s harmless. I’ve come across them several times, but you’re only really sure once you’re back home and analyze the photos. In the moment, you freak out!!!

I don’t remember if I’ve already told you, but I read and save your posts 😉—just don’t have much time right now (working on my Namibia travel journal).

Good evening Martine,

A magnificent Bull Snake (apparently harmless) gave us the scare of our lives.



What a beautiful snake! But you don’t expect to see one at the entrance of a Visitor Center. And it’s impressive.

I also find prairie dogs amusing 😏

Suddenly, a little white behind and twisted horns!!! A couple of pronghorns are watching us!!!



Great! They were pretty close to you.

Custer State Park, criticized by some, was a real heart-stopper for us. Maybe because it was our first wildlife park.

I didn’t feel the same emotion because I visited Yellowstone NP before Custer SP, and we saw tons of bison in Lamar Valley.

Have a good evening!

See you soon!

Christine

Hello Thank you for this travel journal that’ll really help us with our upcoming trip! Like you, we discovered the American West back in 2008 and promised ourselves we’d go back to visit Yellowstone! Time flies—now’s the time to think about it, especially since you have to book accommodations a year in advance! We’re loving your story—so many beautiful photos to top off this great recap! Can’t wait for the next part—see you soon for more reading! 😉

Hi there! 🙂 Save it, save it, Isap and Marimijean—hope my travel journal helps a bit!

Day 4. September 5th Custer-Interior. Cedar Pass Lodge: Interior 207 € without breakfast (shared room: 4 people) Booked directly with the hotel almost a year in advance. We fell in love with these cozy little cabins—super comfortable with a microwave, coffee maker, and fridge. The warm presence of wood both inside and out. Right in the middle of Badlands National Park and very close to the Visitor Center and various trailheads. Very quiet and the perfect spot for sunrise and sunset. Ice pack offered at checkout.

Breakfast was simple but good, taken in the tiny reception room of the Rocket Motel. 7:55 AM!! Everyone’s already in the car. It’s 13°C outside!! The temperature will rise quickly with the sun. First stop to photograph the pretty sign at the east entrance of the park.

I get out with Maumau. After taking photos, we return to the car. I see him stiff as a board in front of his open door... a nice dry bison patty waiting for him on the seat!!! The other two jokers left it there while we were taking photos to prank him!!!

"Oh, those jerks, oh the bastards, oh those jerks!!!! Me, I’m not touching that, ew!!!! It’s disgusting!!!! Where the hell did you find that!!!! Get it out of here!!!!" Maumau just won’t stop!!! Too bad you can’t hear him with his Toulon accent. And we’re all cracking up, nearly peeing our pants from laughing!!! Poor Maumau!!! When I tell you we’re still a bunch of teenagers!!! After returning the bison’s gift to the earth, we hit the road again, still laughing our heads off, heading toward Mount Rushmore via Highway 16A. Iron Mountain Road This narrow, winding road, lined with cliffs and beautiful dense pine forests, is unique with its tunnels and especially its pigtail bridges (pig’s tail).

It offers stunning viewpoints from well-designed parking areas as we get closer to Mount Rushmore. Island in the Plain, where we start to see it from very far away.

Norbeck Overlook, where it appears between the pines.

Doane Robinson Tunnel, where you have to park beforehand and dodge cars to take a nice photo from inside.

Mount Rushmore National Memorial. We easily find a spot in the huge parking lot. Everything is well organized. The grand walkway (Avenue of the Flags), lined on both sides by the flags of the different states, leads us to the Grand View Terrace, where we can see the famous monumental sculpture of the four presidents’ faces carved into the granite wall even closer.

From there, we tackle the Presidential Trail, an easy walk of just under a kilometer that brings us up close to Washington, Jefferson, Roosevelt, and Lincoln, who tower over us at 18 meters tall.

Just before the climb, you can visit the sculptor’s studio, where you’ll find a model of the initial project, which was supposed to include the busts along with the heads. Despite the steps, the 40-minute walk is fairly easy, shaded, and there are regular rest stops for those who need them. I have a lot of respect for the titanic work of the 400 workers who participated, using dynamite and hammers, but this place didn’t move me at all!! Too much gigantism, too much megalomania, too many people!!! Plus, it’s on sacred land stolen from the original inhabitants of this country. We pay $5 for parking instead of $10 (we’re seniors—or not!!!) and it’s 11:40 AM when we leave this place without too much regret, though you can clearly feel the pride of Americans and their reverence for their country. Fort Hays (2255 Fort Hays Drive) A quick photo stop in this jumble of objects and sets from the movie *Dances with Wolves*.



Even though we know it’s not authentic, we wander around like kids in this old town museum, where a friendly old cowboy proudly shows us his vintage cars while giving us explanations we only understand one word out of three!!!!!!









Scenic After this fun visit, we head back toward the Badlands, passing through Scenic. What a strange place this town is!!! A central road lined with buildings that seem abandoned: a few houses, saloons, a general store, animal skulls, a strong religious presence—but not a single human or ghost in sight!!!!







Either way, we really like it!! We settle under a tree for a picnic without being bothered by little flying critters this time.

Thanks for this story—it takes me right back to our trip at the same time last year! We did almost the same route, except we went back through Moab. And also as a group of four, but we’re in our seventies! I didn’t have the energy to rewrite everything here since I’d already posted it all on my blog, but the link is there. I’ll keep following your adventures…

Hi Martine, While reading your travel journal, which so pleasantly takes us through the places we’ll be visiting in June 2020, I realize I won’t have the nerve😜 to make one as well—yours is just too amazing... Okay, I’ll add a link to comment on a few photos, saying something like "go check it out... at Martine’s place";) Yves

Good evening! 🙂 Thanks to both of you for your sweet messages!!! Yves, stop with the compliments or I’ll end up getting a big head. The main thing in a travel journal is to bring back good memories for some and help others prepare for their future trip. Have a great weekend! Martine 🙂

Badlands National Park In our roadbook, after leaving Scenic, I had planned to make a detour into the southern part of the park by heading up to Sheep Mountain Table, but we decided to skip it since time got away from us. It takes about two hours to drive the Rim Road, and we wanted to do the three short hikes around the Visitor Center later in the afternoon. Since the weather was nice, we took the Sage Creek Road trail. We got a little lost taking a path that led toward a farm, but we eventually found the road. After crossing vast stretches of prairie, we started seeing the first rock formations of this park, which was another of our favorite spots.

We immediately fell in love with the place and its incredible landscapes.

The soil, eroded by rain, frost, and wind, reveals hills where colorful sedimentary layers have been deposited over millennia. Every color is there as you move from one viewpoint to another: black, orange, pink, beige, white, red, yellow!!!! You can read the geological changes like an open book, thanks to the layers exposed by erosion. On the horizon, nothing blocks the view!!!

Endless rolling hills as far as the eye can see

buttes,



spires,

canyons,

and cliffs



grassy plateaus,

needles,

prairies



The soft green of the grass contrasts with the colors of the rocks, with dark green patches of the few trees that grow here and there.



This park is a mix of softness in its colors and raw power in its rock formations!!!! It’s 31°C, it’s absolutely stunning, we’re loving it!!!!! And the smiles on our faces say it all

Badlands Loop Road Every viewpoint is a completely new spectacle, totally different from the last. Sage Creek Basin



Robert Prairie Dog Town

Badlands Wilderness s



Hay Butte



Pinnacles



Old Hunters The road leaves the green behind for a more mineral, yet still colorful, atmosphere before reaching one of the prettiest spots in the park: the Yellow Mounds.

Hi Martine, This Badlands park is absolutely amazing. We’ll definitely go one day!🙂

Badlands landscapes are relatively common, but badlands surrounded by green expanses? That’s way rarer 😮 !! A stunning environment that makes you want to wander around... 😇

Cedar Pass Lodge: 207 € without breakfast (shared room: 4 people) Booked directly with the hotel almost a year in advance. We loved these cozy little cabins—so comfortable with a microwave, coffee maker, and fridge. The warm presence of wood both outside and inside. Right in the heart of Badlands National Park, very close to the Visitor Center and various trailheads. Very peaceful and the perfect spot for sunrise and sunset. Ice pack offered at checkout.

Hi Martine,

I also really loved Cedar Pass Lodge 😏

I’m heading down with Maumau. After taking photos, we return to the car. I see him stiff as a board in front of his open door... a nice, dry bison patty waiting for him on the seat!!! The other two jokers left it there while we were taking photos to prank him!!! « Oh those a-holes, oh those b-stards, oh those a-holes!!!! Me, I’m not touching that, ew!!!! It’s disgusting!!!! Where the heck did you find that!!!! Come on, get it out of here!!!! » Maumau just won’t stop!!! Too bad you can’t hear him with his Toulon accent. And there we are, laughing so hard we nearly pee our pants!!! Poor Maumau!!! When I say we’re still a bunch of teenagers!!!

What pranksters!



Great photo!

For us, no luck—the fog rolled in just as we were driving on that road 😕

Fort Hayes (2255 Fort Hayes Drive) Quick photo stop in this jumble of props and sets from the movie *Dances with Wolves*.

Darn! We missed it 😕

Take care

Christine

Hi Martine,

You managed to get some great photos of those cute prairie dogs. They’re not easy to photograph—they’re so skittish.

luckily no rattlesnakes except for the amazing specimen preserved in a jar at the Cedar Pass Lodge reception.

I was really careful when we walked on trails lined with tall grass—signs warned "Beware rattlesnakes!".

Thankfully, we didn’t see any rattlesnakes during our park visit either. We only spotted a snake’s shed skin.

Have a great afternoon!

Christine

Good evening! 🙂 Peggy and Guillaume, as someone who’s crazy about red rocks, I absolutely loved the park!!! Maybe it’s precisely because of that mix of gentle prairies and sharp, colorful rocks that gives it such a unique atmosphere—both peaceful and dramatic. And Christine, thanks to you and Titou, we had the chance to sleep right in the heart of the park in those lovely cabins at Cedar Lodge. 🙂