4 friends discover a piece of North India (page 4 of 8)

Portraits in Jaisalmer

But I’ve always been scared of big cities, the most populated ones in India. Afraid of getting lost, worried about the pollution... I’m still waiting for the right opportunity to go with a French or Indian friend...

Get lost? It happened to us, several times. I remember a real moment of shared loneliness in Chandi Chowk. But pretty quickly, an Indian (who wasn’t trying to sell us anything) helped us out. I was often afraid of losing my friends. Taking photos while the others moved ahead, turning around, looking left and right, watching out for cow dung, the moped going full speed, the tuk-tuk weaving through traffic, reckless bikes, the guy trying to sell me something, the one staring at me, the horns blasting in my ears... Plus, I refused to walk around with my phone, so I kept a business card from the guesthouse on me, like a kid! Of course, it was Richard who’d say: "Don’t lose sight of me! Keep an eye on me! You’ll be glad to have these photos later...!"

As for pollution in Delhi, I had a sore throat the whole time and thought I was coming down with a cold. The permanent haze hanging over the city is partly from vehicle exhaust.

Despite all that, Delhi is a city you shouldn’t skip.

Despite all that, Delhi is a city you shouldn’t skip.

I don’t disagree, but you were four and still young, and yet you freaked out at times... Oh well, as long as I can’t find anyone to visit Delhi with me, I won’t go. It’s not so much about needing protection as it is about not feeling alone...

This was my fourth time in Jodhpur this summer, and it turned out to be one of the highlights of the trip, even though Udaipur is exceptional. I also took away from this trip that you can have a different perception of places you’ve already visited depending on the context, the events, the people you’re traveling with, and so many other factors. In other words, the experience is different every time, and you can feel like you’re rediscovering a place in a whole new light.

I can confirm that. I also love Jodhpur, which I prefer over Jaipur and Udaipur. I’ve spent several extended stays there. For me, 3 days in a city is when I don’t want to linger... And each time, it was different, and each time, it was magical... And, as you said, I loved Pondicherry dozens of times, then I hated it. I’d like to go back this year to see what feeling—if any—resurfaces.

Here we are in Fatehpur, the short-lived capital of the Mughal Empire built in the 16th century in just over 10 years.

Careful—don’t confuse Fatehpur Sikri (the one we’re talking about here) with Fatehpur, which is also in Uttar Pradesh but nearly 400 km southeast of the first.

less by the rules, more by anticipation.

Spot on! That’s exactly it. The moment you think a horrific collision is inevitable—*poof!*—a little turn of the wheel, and everyone keeps going without even grazing each other. Because everyone instinctively knows what the other is about to do. That anticipation of what the other will do has always amazed me.

we all feel a little tired.

No wonder! Just reading about it leaves me breathless. Not mocking you at all—it’s just that I couldn’t keep up with that pace in a single day.

We imagine that the south (at least Tamil Nadu) will be less touristy than Rajasthan—well, that’s what we think. Either way, we’re hoping to discover an India that’s still different from the north (trip planned for January 2025) 🙂

Less touristy? Not sure, depending on the places... And lots and lots of Indian tourists from the north, often unbearable because of their incivility or arrogance—the new rich. But yes, you’ll definitely discover a totally different India.

Oh well, as long as I don’t find anyone to visit Delhi with me, I won’t go. It’s not so much about being protected as it is about not feeling alone...

I get you. For me, a trip has to be shared. If I don’t have a shoulder to tap and say, "Hey, did you see how beautiful that is?" I find it less interesting. So what do you do if you don’t feel like traveling alone rather than skipping the trip? Do you book with an agency? Hire a private guide? Look for a travel buddy on a forum? It’s not easy... We were really lucky to click so well and be on the same wavelength—something that wasn’t guaranteed at all, especially in a "difficult" country. And everything just fell into place without anyone feeling like they were making an effort.

Oh! Ranakpur, the marvel! But where I got attacked by bees. Over 120 stingers that the doctor at the Jain hospital—where the locals took me—removed from my skull and face. I looked like an extraterrestrial monster. "You should be dead," he told me. Two days later, I was skipping around Dungarpur.

There, I’ve finished reading everything, caught up on my backlog, and I’m up to date now

There we go, I’ve finished reading everything, caught up on my backlog, and I’m up to date now

So let’s head into the Thar Desert 😉

The Thar Desert: a sandy ecozone covering 200,000 km², about a third the size of metropolitan France. How could we pass it up when it’s so far from home? Of course, the term “méharée” doesn’t fool any of us. We all know what these organized visits to “authentic, unique experience” places are really like—right in the heart of whatever you want. “After a camel trek, you’ll live a timeless moment sharing a meal prepared by your guide amid the silence of the dunes while dreaming under a sunset, before falling asleep in the desert’s serenity.” Yeah, yeah, yeah...

So what do we do? Do we turn it down? (Ref. “Les Tontons Flingueurs”.)

Meeting on the rooftop terrace of our guesthouse. We decide, of course, to take the méharée offered by Hamid, the hotel manager, especially since the reviews we’d read about the service were overwhelmingly positive. A one-and-a-half-hour camel trek, then dinner with our guide until nightfall (we won’t be sleeping there) just for the four of us. https://www.tripadvisor.fr/Attraction_Review-g297667-d20112228-Reviews-Diamond_Camel_Safari_jaisalmer-Jaisalmer_Jaisalmer_District_Rajasthan.html

Riding a camel is an experience that’s both pleasant—because the animal’s gait creates a gentle sway—and challenging, since the width of its flanks stretches your thighs to the max and pulls on your adductors. We slowly enter the Thar Desert, which at first looks more like a sandy steppe. By the end of the trek, we finally climb massive dunes of a beautiful gray, though they’re nothing like the golden ones of the Sahara. Prim, our camel driver, sets up camp and prepares the meal while we climb to the crest to take photos. Watching the camp far below, I’m reminded of a passage from Jack Kerouac’s “On the Road.” Like the novel’s hero, I start running barefoot down the steep slope at full speed. Exhilarating. I’m 20 again!.. And my legs hurt.



Dinner shared with our guide and the hotel driver around a fire, in the cool of the falling night, is really enjoyable. We chat with Prim about his work and his bond with his animals. When the talking stops, only the crackling of the campfire breaks the desert’s silence. We return by jeep after dark, and the headlights reveal all sorts of nocturnal wildlife crossing the trail: rabbits, gazelles, a lone camel... A great experience, then, this “desert crossing,” as long as you find a service that guarantees a small-group outing in a truly isolated spot. And yes, the Thar Desert can get pretty crowded.

Prim roasted these weird things for us to snack on before the meal (for the pre-dinner drinks, you know 😛) Never seen these before! They have the texture of Chinese shrimp chips, they're colorful, and they're good (well, I think they're chemical ) The meal was delicious, I'm in awe! Over a small wood fire between two stones, in a pot that must've been a thousand years old, he whipped up a royal dinner for us.

Well, here you go, Christelle! The Thar Desert! The circle is complete! Sorry, Richard, for this aside—we were talking about this desert in Solène40’s (gorgeous) travel journal about the Sultanate of Oman.

I took the plunge in 2019 for a night in this famous desert, and I have very fond memories of it because, while it *is* very touristy, 98% of the tourists in our group during this little escape were... Indian. For us, that was like a local immersion and a chance for some really interesting conversations, since most of them spoke English without any issues. It wouldn’t have been the same if our companions for the evening had been German or Belgian...

On top of that, our guide had arranged a luxury version for us, at my request... I’m all for the desert, but there’s got to be a minimum level of comfort! So, I’d recommend it, but make sure you nail down the details of what’s included.

Hi Montagnard, I’m still not very quick on the forum yet—takes me a while to get the hang of the beast. Still, I’m really happy to see that our little two-person travel journal with Kate is sparking some interest. I’ve also noticed a lot of messages from Marien, who seems to be reading it very carefully—thanks for that! As for the Thar Desert, you’ve picked up on my mixed feelings. It’s always the same thing: you want to have the place you’ve heard about all to yourself, without the tourists, like you could have a truly unique experience. But at the same time, you know that’s not possible unless you travel in a completely different way, without going through the commercial intermediaries needed for that kind of discovery. So, you know upfront that the "camel trek in the Thar Desert" will be marked out and calibrated to give you the illusion of the desert. I understood that going in—I wasn’t fooled—but that didn’t stop me from having a really beautiful moment, feeling just a little of what the desert holds in terms of both human life and the animals that live in that space. So, yes, like you, I’d recommend this little tourist adventure—it’s good for the soul, especially since we had the wisdom (or luck) to stumble upon a completely honest offer that let us experience it just the four of us.

Yep Bruno, Richard nailed exactly the hesitation I had before the Wahiba Sands. Sure, I wanted to go to a desert, but not to end up in the middle of a "tourist traffic jam" 😄. I’m definitely going to visit Jaisalmer one day (since it seems to be a unanimous favorite), but the Thar Desert—we’ll see depending on the conditions.

And Kate, hats off for your portraits—I’m totally loving them 👍🏼👍🏻😍

See you soon for the next part

Jaisalmer for a day (because it seems to be one of those places everyone agrees on)

I have mixed feelings about Jaisalmer.

I went there in 1995. The sun was shining, tourist pressure was very low, it was my first trip to India, and I loved it.

I went back 15 years later. The rain washed out the colors, visitors had multiplied, and the Jaisalmer I remembered had vanished.

Our accommodation in Jaisalmer – Diamond Guest House – is located inside the fortress, in the upper town, a bit like in Carcassonne, which French travel guides often compare it to. "The Carcassonne of the desert!"

The two cities have actually started a twinning partnership, and Carcassonne is sharing its expertise in fort conservation with Jaisalmer, I believe. And I’m not saying that just because I’m originally from Carcassonne!

An epic with meticulous descriptions that owe much to memory... and so little to sight, unfortunately hindered. 😉

A fresco painted with daylight or twilight, a kaleidoscope of portraits, temples, deserts, or street scenes... so, so much more beautiful against a white background! When talents come together on a blank page like two dancers tightly entwined, twirling across the floor without ever stepping on each other’s toes...

When all around, the passionate, the devoted, the subtle connoisseurs return one by one, recognize each other, greet each other, linger, and applaud the duo’s virtuosity...

... then you can say a travel journal is a success 🙂

Attila, it's true that when we return to places we loved, we're often disappointed. We expect to feel the same emotions, but it's just not possible. That said, India must have changed a lot in 15 years...

Kola, thanks for your kind words. Yeah, it's true I forgot my glasses—I didn’t take any notes. I did it all from memory once I got back! !

Forgetting your glasses is a real pain. Richard realized it while he was wearing one of my pairs and everything was blurry! 🤪 He thought it was because of the cold he’d been fighting for a few days. But we were already halfway between Béziers and Toulouse airport... Luckily, he had his sunglasses, and a pair of reading glasses bought at the airport did the trick somewhat.

Day 19 / Day 20. Return to Delhi

Back to Delhi with SpiceJet. At Jaisalmer Airport, the security officer confiscates my e-cigarette. "Forbidden in India," he tells me with a smile. Okay. "One year in prison and/or 100,000 rupees (1,270 €)", according to what I read after returning to France. Did I have a narrow escape? 😕 We arrive in Delhi in the early evening. The guesthouse Lake View Luxury Apartment is well located in a very quiet street but close to Connaught Place. There’s a lot of activity in the surrounding streets, with crowds everywhere. Tomorrow, January 26th, is Republic Day, India’s republic celebration and a public holiday.

What to do on this last day in Delhi? We could go see the big military parade at India Gate, especially since Prime Minister Modi has made our French President the guest of honor in the name of Franco-Indian friendship. Portraits of the two men arm in arm are everywhere along the main avenues.





In the end, we head to the opposite side of the official festivities, to the south of the city, to visit the beautiful site of the Qutb Minar. It’s actually a vast Islamic religious and funerary complex dating back to the 12th/13th centuries. The Qutb Minar itself is a massive red sandstone minaret that dominates the entire site. The place, which feels like both an archaeological zone and a park, is peaceful and relaxing on this sunny morning. We spend a good two hours there.







A tuk-tuk ride later, and we’re off to the Lotus Temple, a stunning piece of contemporary architecture dedicated to the Bahá’í faith. The visit is free, but there’s a huge crowd—pilgrims and tourists, mostly Indian—and the line stretches for several hundred meters.

We wisely decide to grab a bite at a small open-air eatery. By the end of the meal, the crowd is still just as big. We’re about to give up when a man calls out to us, "Foreigners, by here." We skip ahead of everyone. Bruno and I feel a bit awkward, but no one seems to mind that we’ve cut the line. I can’t imagine the same thing happening in France!!! The temple, shaped like a lotus, is absolutely stunning—majestic and elegant. I know a bit about the Bahá’í faith through an Iranian friend exiled in France. Founded only in the 19th century by the prophet Baha'u'llah, it seeks to blend the three major monotheistic religions. It’s a deeply spiritual faith that emphasizes tolerance, brotherhood, and peace.







At the end of the day, we do some shopping at an emporium. These are state-run stores that display and sell all kinds of Indian handicrafts, often of very good quality: fabrics, clothing, jewelry, sculptures, etc. In this type of store, prices are fixed—no bargaining, in principle. Our last meal is at a restaurant in Connaught Place. Very touristy, quite expensive, and far from exceptional. Anyway, Connaught Place is, in my opinion, the least interesting of all the areas we’ve explored in Delhi.