Review of a Mediterranean cruise on the Splendida and 24 hours in Venice – October 2024 (page 4 of 7)

Hi Catherine,

It’s always a pleasure to read your posts.

I stopped over in Istanbul (with HAL) a few years ago, and it looks like the crowds haven’t budged an inch. From what I remember, it took us over 2 hours to get back to the Blue Mosque...

On the other hand, we got a tram pass for the day, and it was super handy for getting around. There was a stop right in front of the cruise terminal.

It’s really shocking how expensive taxis are (40 €) for barely 3 km. They totally rip off tourists.

Thanks for sharing!

Alfred

Love this review, Catherine! 😎 I totally get what you mean—getting older, we start to appreciate the peace and quiet, and big cities lose their charm. Looking forward to the next part!

Hi Alfred,

It had been quite a while since we last went to Istanbul, and we were really glad we visited the mosques and other must-see sites in the city at that time. We never would’ve waited two hours for a tour.

When we told the taxi driver we didn’t accept his price and wanted to get out, he outright asked how much we *did* want to pay. But when someone messes with you like that, you can’t trust them afterward.

I have a memory from the Istanbul tram that stuck with me—I wasn’t even 40 yet... and a young guy stood up to offer me his seat. It was really kind, and it’s been a long time since I’ve seen that in France, but I thought, *Do I look that old?* 🙁 😉

Thanks, Catherine,

You're right—if I never liked crowds, now I tend to avoid them even more.

Sunday, October 27th, at sea

It’s a stroke of luck, a day at sea on a Sunday. I don’t like port Sundays when everything’s closed and the cities feel dead. The sea is like glass, the sun’s shining but doesn’t burn at this time of year, and the wind’s forgotten how to blow. It’s a very peaceful day, perfect for doing nothing but diving into a good book.

Monday, October 28, Corfu

The morning was spent at sea with weather as pleasant as yesterday—we’re really lucky.

At 1 p.m., we were able to disembark without any issues.

MSC sells bus tickets for 10 € to be driven to the port exit, which is a few hundred meters from the ship but still quite far from the city—it’s a bit overpriced.

You have to walk along the seaside for a little over 2 km to reach Corfu’s old town.

The goal of our walk was the Mon Repos residence. It’s one of the palaces of the Greek royal family, dating back to 1831, located by Garitsa Bay. This is where Prince Philip, husband of Queen Elizabeth II of England, was born.

It’s said that this palace resembles Empress Sissi’s Achilleion Palace, but smaller. Since Sissi’s palace has been closed for a long time with no reopening date, I wanted to see this one instead. It’s described as “a bubble of tranquility and freshness, far from the hustle and bustle of the streets.”

So, we set off on this lovely walk that took us along the bay under a pleasant sun. Before entering the town of Kerkyra, you’ll find the old fishing port with its small, colorful boats moored along the quay.





And the path continues above the sea.



The Old Fort is a citadel surrounded by ramparts, located on a rocky peninsula that juts out over the Ionian Sea and overlooks the bay. This promontory is where the old town of Corfu was situated during the Byzantine era.



The construction of the citadel is said to date back to the Byzantine Empire (6th century), but it was completed much later during the Venetian era. The Venetians also dug a moat, which is a maritime canal, to separate the promontory from the rest of Corfu.

Monday, October 28, Corfu (continued)

After the long esplanade separating the fort from the city, the walk continues along the water, offering magnificent views of the bay and the citadel.







At the end of the small port, at the foot of the windmill, many swimmers are enjoying these beautiful autumn days. The water is clear and inviting for a dip.





Nothing indicates the Mon Repos palace except for a nearby hotel that took its name and a bus stop... A gate, locked with a padlock, and behind the bars, a seaside garden in a very sad state, completely abandoned. Then a long, high wall that seems endless, surrounding the property. We won’t see anything more of it... Fortunately, the walk was beautiful.

Monday, October 28, Corfu (continued)

We head back along the seaside toward the city, and the scenery is still just as beautiful.



Kerkyra is the old town of Corfu. Throughout its history, it has seen many great civilizations come and go—Greeks, Venetians, Byzantines, French, and even the English—each leaving their mark on the city. The beautiful arcades of the Liston are said to have been inspired by those on Rue de Rivoli in Paris. Only the nobility were allowed to stroll along this prestigious avenue. They were on a list of privileged people, which is where the name "Liston" comes from.



Kerkyra is a maze of typical alleys and narrow streets with warm, pastel hues that open onto small squares.









A gorgeous sunset wraps up this lovely day.

Hi Catherine, Thanks for the beautiful photos and explanations. We visited Istanbul back in 1973... and there were already crowds, but not too much of a queue to visit Topkapi Palace and Hagia Sophia. The Grand Bazaar doesn’t seem to have changed much. We visited Corfu in 2010. So many changes. Thanks so much for sharing: Mum49

Hi Catherine, We were in Corfu 5 days before you on Oceania’s Vista. But there was a free shuttle that dropped us right before the fortress. For the return trip, no waiting—one shuttle was leaving as another arrived. I practically have the same photos as you! 😉

Hi Catherine,

It’s normal—Oceania contractually guarantees transfers to the city center, just like the so-called "luxury" cruise lines do. With MSC, even in YC, you can’t count on those perks, and charging 10 € just to leave the port is a total rip-off. Generally, these cruise lines also get the best spots in ports, except during my last Oceania cruise in Alaska (Sept. 2023), where we ended up with the farthest berths several times.

Hi Guylene, It seems like more and more often, we’re happy we got to visit all these places a few years ago. 😉

To come back and wrap up about Oceania, I know you’re disappointed about your South Africa and Alaska cruises, but I think we should set aside the three small ships—they’re not actually considered "Luxury" but only "Premium" (Monaco port’s classification). It’s too bad because their itineraries are often unique... Promise, Catherine, I’ll stop digressing

My disappointment about Alaska has nothing to do with the one I felt in South Africa. This time, by comparison, it was really minor. 😉 We had a great cruise.

Tuesday, October 29, Bari

Today is the first stop of this cruise we’ve never done before. A bit of discovery and novelty will be more than welcome!

The ship only docks from 7 AM to 2 PM. At 7:20 AM, we’re on the quay and set off in search of a taxi. But... no luck—this time, there isn’t a single taxi in sight. We head toward the port exit... nothing.

When a woman gets dropped off with luggage, I ask the driver where the taxis are. He starts dialing a number on his phone to call one, but when we tell him it’s for a tour, he offers to take us himself. We’re saved! The deal is settled for 160 €, with a one-hour stop in Alberobello and another in Polignano a Mare.

After following the coast, we turn toward Alberobello and drive through vast olive groves. The road starts climbing, overlooking the plain and the sea. The landscape is distinctly Mediterranean—fields bordered by low stone walls, where olive trees, fig trees, and lemon trees grow. A few trulli are scattered along this mountain road. These temporary, easily dismantled structures were used as storage or shelters for farmers.

The trullo (singular of trulli in Italian) is a dry-stone dwelling with a conical roof covered in limestone slabs. This rural construction appeared in the 16th century, but its origins are much older, as the technique of building these mortar-free homes dates back to prehistoric times.

Alberobello is one of the most iconic places in the Puglia region. This town is famous for its trulli. We’re almost alone in the village when we arrive in Alberobello.



Via Monte San Michele, with its long staircases, we climb to the top of the hill where the Church of Sant’Antonio di Padova stands.







The shops aren’t open yet, and it’s lovely to have the place to ourselves.







We then descend through a maze of small side streets that crisscross each other.





Countless trulli, tastefully—and sometimes creatively—renovated, stretch on endlessly.

Tuesday, October 29, Bari (continued)

At the bottom of the village on the other side of the main square, the opposite neighborhood offers a completely different vibe.



This is the area where the locals live. The Trulli are occupied homes, and each Trullo showcases its own personality and charm in a more authentic atmosphere.







Narrow passages weave between the little houses, allowing you to descend back toward the center of the village, sometimes offering lovely views of the forest of pointed roofs.





As we leave Alberobello, we cross paths with arriving buses—we visited at the perfect time.

Our second stop is Polignano a Mare, which the taxi describes as "a little gem."

This town, perched atop high cliffs overlooking the sea, was founded by the Greeks. It has been ruled by various civilizations—from the Greeks to the Romans, Byzantines to Normans, and finally the Venetians. This tumultuous history has left an indelible mark on the town’s character.

The taxi drops us off at one end of the village and suggests we meet at the opposite exit, straight ahead—it’s easy. The walk we’re supposed to take is under construction and off-limits, but the taxi has already left.

Tuesday, October 29, Bari (continued)

We wandered through the historic center’s narrow alleys, crossing the old village.







While one side of the village rises above the sea, the alleys behind it are shielded from its waves, with access to the shore only at a few spots turned into viewpoints.



These terraces offer a stunning view of Polignano’s coastline, and the restaurant’s terrace has an exceptional location.





Seeing the cliffs plunging into the sea, with buildings perched on top, is breathtaking. The sea’s relentless waves have carved caves into the base of this stone wall.

Hi Catherine,

Thanks for that little trip to Bari. I haven’t had the chance to stop there yet, but I think it’s gorgeous (from your amazing photos). You were lucky to find someone (taxis) not far from the port for the visit. It’s true that there are places where you’d think you’d easily find transport (taxis or otherwise) right outside the port. Unfortunately, that’s not the case everywhere.

Alberobello is truly stunning, and it has a bit of a Mykonos vibe.

Thanks for this discovery!

Alfred

Hi Alfred, Yes, Bari is a really beautiful stop, and I encourage you to keep exploring Polignano a Mare.

Tuesday, October 29, Bari (continued)

After a few more alleyways, the village reveals its full beauty as one last surprise.







We meet our taxi at the agreed time in Piazza Domenico Modugno.



That name doesn’t ring a bell, but with the few notes our driver hums, oh yes—of course, it’s him! Everyone knows his music.

Tuesday, October 29, Bari (continued)

To wrap up the morning, the car drops us off in the center of Bari, where we can take one last stroll before heading back to the ship. The square isn’t really showcased with all the construction and commercial tents.



But its lovely sun-drenched terraces, inviting passersby to linger and soak up the moment and the atmosphere, give it a certain charm.







The little streets, sometimes winding or dim, are gorgeous.



We head back to the ship by following a lovely elevated promenade with a view of the port.







And now, the series of "lasts" begins… The last meal in the sun on the pool terrace, the last afternoon of sunbathing… Since we disembark tomorrow.