New Walks from Jodhpur to Narnaul (Feb 24) (page 4 of 5)

When we arrived, Mudita took me straight to visit a hotel, the Malji Ka Kamra, dating back to the 1920s. It’s Italian in style with Shekhawati-style frescoes, and the whole place is surprising and delightful.



This is where you should stay😏





We continued our stroll through the havelis with their many small windows, similar to those you’d see in Chettinad (Tamil Nadu), and always with beautifully decorated doors.





Amazing—the Christ smoking a cigar!



We passed by the Jain Digambar Temple, which was closed in the early afternoon. Mudita has an uncle who runs a shop nearby, and with his help, the guard came to open it for us. Thanks, Mudita, for your efficiency—it was worth it!



We headed to the market around the marble clock tower and had lunch on the street with lots of street food, including an aloo tekri (mashed potato balls with chickpeas, tomatoes, onions, and coriander—it was really good!)



We returned to Mahansar without any issues after another beautiful day. Mudita is a very friendly young guide who does her best to meet our wishes, and I highly recommend her—I have her WhatsApp number. She guides from Nawalgarh to Churu, and it was a great encounter.

Monday the 12th and Tuesday the 13th of February. Departure at 9:30 AM from Mahensar. This time I’m leaving Rajasthan and Shekhawati, where I had a great stay that’s far from over. I’m heading to Narnaul in Haryana, a rarely visited state. My bus goes direct to Chirawa, and there I change buses—the one for Narnaul is ready to leave. My bag can’t go in the luggage compartment, and the only seats left are at the back of the bus where I have to sit. Those seats are really uncomfortable; it’s very bumpy, and my back isn’t happy about it. I found a hotel on Google and arrive at 2:30 PM. It’s located about a kilometer from the city. I don’t linger in the room. I walk to the busy intersection where I passed earlier, looking for a rickshaw to take me to Jal Mahal in Narnaul or Kan Sarovar, which seems to be outside the city. It’s a palace built by Shah Kuli Khan, who was an officer and ruler of Narnaul. The term *Jal* (water) comes from the concept of water surrounding the palace on all sides. Today, the ground is very dry, but from a distance, the palace seemed to float on the water like a boat. A bridge with 16 arches still exists, allowing people to cross the reservoir to reach the palace. It was built as a pleasure house. Entry is free, but you have to sign in with the guard, and photos are only allowed with a phone.





The ceiling paintings, 400 years old, are well preserved.



Back in the city center, I eat a pizza with some friendly young locals who are very attentive to me, so happy to have a tourist visiting them. Tuesday, February 13th. Before leaving the hotel, I study the city map carefully and note all the sights so I can visit them on foot without rushing. I start with Chor Gumbad, located at the back of a garden between the intersection and the bus station—you can walk right past the entrance without noticing it.



This tomb, built by an Afghan, is the city’s landmark, though its appearance is deceptive. The two stories of verandas are only on the outside; inside, it’s just one chamber.





Leaving the garden, I ask for directions to Mirza Ali Jan Baori, and that’s when my walks through Narnaul’s alleys begin. I pass by a well with four pillars—this means it’s a public well. Wells with two pillars are private and reserved for the owners. You find a lot of these in Rajasthan.



A man on a motorcycle stops in front of me to make sure I don’t take the wrong path, waiting until I arrive before leaving. After a while, he offers me a ride on his motorcycle and takes me to the baori—it was much simpler that way. The baori is under full restoration, but if you’re careful, you can get close. It’s magnificent and will be saved—it’s great to see that happening.



At the top of the gate, there’s a *takhat* or throne in the shape of a chhatri with pillars to enhance the structure’s uniqueness. The well has three levels. There are tombs on the platform.

Nearby, a large reservoir surrounded by chhatris in the Bengali style. It’s not maintained—the water is green, which is a real shame because the area is peaceful, and there’s a lovely walk around it.





I continue my walk to the tomb of Ibrahim Shah. I stroll through narrow alleys lined with houses, where cows live in the streets with little freedom.



At the end of an alley, the tomb comes into view—it doesn’t go unnoticed. It’s stunning.







Nearby is Pir Turkman, a soldier and Sufi saint. He arrived in Narnaul with jewels in one hand and a sword in the other. When he died in 1137, a tomb was built for him, which was under restoration during my visit.



The locals are very friendly, though maybe a little surprised to see a Western woman walking alone in their town. Men in the streets smoke hookah—it’s quite unique, and I haven’t seen it often in India.





Women come up to me to have their photos taken—their outfits are so colorful. I love sharing these warm little moments.

I’m not far from Jal Mahal (the palace in the middle of the water, though it used to be) now—it’s where I came yesterday evening. Across the way, in the middle of the fields, I’d spotted two tombs, the Tomb of Shah Quli Khan. I need to find the path and backtrack to take the alley on the left, and at the end, I discover another reservoir identical to the one next to the baori.





A man leads me to the tombs—we have to cross the mustard fields, and I wasn’t sure about venturing in. Shah Quli Khan was the governor of Narnaul for 42 years under Emperor Akbar’s reign. This tomb was first built for his father’s remains, and after his death, his own remains were buried here too. The second tomb belongs to his brother.





I take the path back, and a man on a motorcycle stops to give me a ride to the center of Narnaul. The locals in this city, which isn’t often visited, are really attentive—it’s so nice. I’m glad to get this ride back because my feet are starting to get tired. It’s a bit early to head back to the hotel, so I check my notes for something else to visit.

8 km away, in Makundpura, there’s a baori. It’s noted to be at least 3 or 4 centuries old, easily recognizable by its 4 chhatris, and in much better condition than its counterparts in the city. That’s all I need to decide—I just have to find a rickshaw. The driver has to ask for directions several times to get to the village and then to the baori. We arrive in front of a ruin—nature has taken over, and it’s impossible to get close.





On the way back, I go to the same place for dinner as last night, and they’re happy to see me again. They let me try a dish I don’t know, and I’ll have some momos. Back at the hotel, I buy some yogurt and make a mandatory stop for my sugarcane juice—I’ve been on a cure since the start of the trip.

Wednesday the 14th I leave the hotel at 6:50 AM—I have a train to catch to Delhi, and I’m 10 minutes from the station. The train will be over an hour late; they haven’t made any progress in that department.

End of this part. I’ll have time to post the next part later.

When we arrived, Mudita took me straight to visit a hotel, Malji Ka Kamra, dating back to the 1920s. It’s Italian in style with Shekhawati-style frescoes, and the whole place is surprising and delightful.



This is where you should stay

It’s stunning! Well, why not treat yourself?

Wow, how amazing to sleep in the fort of Mahensar!! Even though it’s pretty run-down, what charm! Did you get to visit it? Does the Maharaja still live there? You took a photo with him, I hope 😄

This region seems incredible with its grand monuments and warm welcome. Taking notes 😊

But I’m a bit confused: is Shekhawati to Rajasthan what Les Landes is to Nouvelle-Aquitaine? Rajasthan is a state, but what exactly is Shekhawati?

"Did you get to visit it? Does the Maharaja still live there?" I didn’t visit it, but the Maharaja himself receives guests. In the evening, we warm up around the fire with him and his family.





So, you’re asking what Shekhawati is compared to Rajasthan. It’s a region that’s part of Rajasthan, like Chalosse in the Landes, which doesn’t resemble Marensin. That should help you picture it! 🤔😄 And it’s made up of beautiful villages with stunning houses. You can easily wander around there.

Hi there,

Thanks so much for this lovely detailed travel journal! 🙂

Careful, this might give you some travel cravings!😄😍

Not wrong 😎 ... but I have to admit I preferred your Mathura photos 😉

If I go back to India, I need to find a better mix than on my last trip (Tamil Nadu and Karnataka), where we were a bit too "single-track" ... temple after temple. A key factor: the food ... I loved it, and that’s one reason I want to go back. I have to admit I was disappointed by the cities, which didn’t really lend themselves to wandering around...

Yeah, I totally get it—too many temples and you just get overwhelmed. I had that experience in Karnataka. A lot of cities in Tamil Nadu are really only interesting for their temples, that’s true. Rajasthan is all about the palaces—they’re stunning. I love Udaipur, which I didn’t get to visit in 2024. You should check out my travel journal from Nov 22. Karauli is a must-visit village, in my opinion. Gujarat is famous for its stepwells—they’re gorgeous. Ahmedabad is an interesting city, as are the surrounding areas. Bhuj is also worth a visit, with its markets nearby, and if you head to Kutch, Chris70 told me the villages are really nice. When you head south later, you’ll see temples too, but not enough to get overwhelmed. 😊

Another Marie Jo travel journal that’s way too tempting! I feel like India is endless... so lucky to go back every year!

Hi Jean François

If I go back to India, I need to find a better mix than on my last trip (Tamil Nadu and Karnataka), where we were a bit too "single-track"... temples after temples.

For our trip to India (the south in January 2025), we’d planned a combo for the same reason: Tamil Nadu for the temples and Kerala for nature. We don’t regret prioritizing the temples in the first, and we absolutely loved the backwaters in the second.

Hello Marie Jo, I stumbled upon this travel journal by chance. I love reading other people’s journals... when... they’re interesting, even captivating. But right now, I’m busy for about 7 to 8 hours a day editing my photos and text for two journals I’m working on simultaneously.

I almost stopped reading after the first few lines when I saw how you described your departure... especially when you talked about "customs" instead of "immigration." Many of us here insist and repeat that we go through Immigration, not customs. It’s not just a vocabulary issue—it’s completely different. Immigration checks whether you’re in compliance with Indian administration and POLICE services: visa, number of days in India, places of stay, etc. Customs—most of the time, they don’t even check—controls what you have in your luggage: cigarettes, alcohol, drugs, counterfeit items, etc. It’s like saying, "I have a terrible toothache, so I’m going to the cardiologist." Or, "I’m taking the train from Marseille to Ajaccio."

That said, I kept reading and don’t regret it, because the places you mention and show make me *really* want to discover them. I also love Jodhpur. I’ve stayed there—not just a quick visit—3 or 4 times. And I spent a long time in Nawalgarh too, where I had absolutely incredible moments, especially during the Holi celebration. Your photos make me want to go take my own pictures📸. So thanks for this journal and for highlighting these lesser-known spots. You don’t mention how long your trip was—I get the impression you’re visiting a bit at a fast pace, trying to see as much as possible in a set amount of time.

Hi,

I was actually thinking of asking you about your thoughts on the north vs. the south, since you’ve done both in travel conditions similar to ours? 🙂

Thanks in advance

Hi Jean-François

I’m replying here to keep this travel journal uncluttered: Discovering South India

Hi there! I’ve been following your travel journals even though I don’t comment much. Speaking of which, I’m still in Meghalaya until tomorrow, and here they sell chicken *with* the skin... and the flies.



I think I’m taking things slower than some travelers, but compared to you, I’m moving faster—I’m not staying for three months. I usually spend 3 or 4 nights in each place, depending on what I want to see during the stay. I try to find lesser-known spots each time, but most travelers aren’t into that. They stick to the classic routes. I left for 40 or 45 days, and my last week was in Chhattisgarh. I put my journal on hold temporarily. Okay, I promise I won’t talk about customs anymore—just immigration. Keep up the great work with your journals!

Hi Valérie! It’s great to see you back here. Yep, India is endless and so different from one state to another. I’m in the Seven Sister states right now, and it doesn’t even feel like I’m in India. Each state is like its own country in this continent that is India. Next time I’ll go for something more classic 😊😆

Hi Jean François, To answer your question about north vs. south, for me they’re completely different countries. Every state is different too. I think in Rajasthan, young people are dressing more and more Western-style. In Tamil Nadu, most cities are only interesting for their temples—they’re even called "temple cities." In northern Rajasthan (*unusual travel journal in Rajasthan Nov 22*), I passed through towns where you can stroll peacefully, with lovely markets—I love the market vibe. Madhya Pradesh might be a bit less touristy, with hidden gems perfect for wandering around, same for Gujarat. I’ve posted travel journals for each of my trips. Karnataka is very different from Tamil Nadu, and in northern Karnataka, you can go from Hampi to Bidar—it’s really charming. I love Badami, where you can take a beautiful, lesser-known walk. I talk about it in my travel journal too. It’s hard to say which part of India is the most interesting because each one is different—it all depends on what you’re looking for.

I always try to find little-known spots, but most travelers aren’t that interested.

I love that about your travel journals! Every time, you make me want to go check them out...