Croatia, Montenegro – two victims of overtourism? (page 4 of 11)

The welcome is pretty chilly. Quite a contrast when the previous trip was in Thailand.

That wasn’t as much the case on my last trip.

In non-touristy spots, it’s more laid-back.

There’s also this feeling of being a walking wallet, especially when you want to park.

I found Albanians friendlier.

No early wake-up call today—this day is all about taking it easy...

The sun is already high in the sky as we leave our lodging and hit the roads of Pelješac, heading north up the peninsula.

Don’t picture some flat, tiny, overcrowded strip of land!

Stretching 70 kilometers, the peninsula has fewer than 10,000 residents, and its highest peak, Mount Saint Elias, rises to 961 meters.

This rugged, forested terrain is a paradise for wild boar, as the road signs keep reminding us!



The roads don’t offer sweeping views of the island, but they do provide some lovely vistas. At the foot of the monument dedicated to the victims of fascism near Pijavićino, a stunning panorama unfolds.

Why is the nearby hotel in ruins?

Okay, its Soviet architecture isn’t exactly charming, but who wouldn’t want to wake up here?



We now leave the main road for a detour toward Crkvice, a tiny village by the sea.

Why this village?

Because of *this*...



I can’t resist roads this twisty! Before tackling the hairpin turns, we stop in the wine-making town of Kuna Pelješka. The churches and the village are deserted—maybe everyone’s sleeping off last night’s wine?



To drink or to drive—that’s the question. Especially with what’s ahead...

Winding single-lane roads with two-way traffic will be the specialty of this trip, and this one’s no exception!



Bring paper bags for the kids and a sleep mask for anyone prone to vertigo...

Even I’m relieved to finally get some fresh air at the bottom!



We could’ve returned to our base without retracing that narrow ribbon of asphalt, but I had my sights set on picking up a few groceries in Orebić, the biggest town around. The quickest way there? Backtracking!

The locals are finally out and about, and a few tricky maneuvers will be needed before we’re back on a two-lane road...

"Hey, Agnès, do all the shops look closed?"

Oops—holidays are stacking up in late June, and we’re striking out...

A seaside restaurant to cheer us up?

We soon drop anchor amid kitesurfers and windsurfers, who put on a show throughout lunch.





After a stroll along the shore, we find our carriage and drive to the end of the peninsula before turning back.



I think we picked the perfect spot!

Hardly anyone’s in the countryside, the coast is reasonably busy, and the landscapes are pretty wild.

A swim, dinner.

The night is pitch-black, and the evening’s relative cool invites a walk.

All the village kids have gathered at the sports field—it’s buzzing with energy until recess ends.



The port of Luka falls silent, and we drift off to sleep...

This island looks like it has a lot of great qualities! 🙂 ...except for the single-lane roads that are two-way, which always stress me out 😕 (but hey, at least in your photos, it doesn’t look too crowded 😉).

Yeah, it's definitely not crowded on these roads! !

But even the rare crossings still require a bit of skill!

Not for me—I hate reversing... Especially if it's not a wide boulevard...

Same for me regarding the backtracking 😕

Deserted, winding backroads, villages deep in slumber that come alive in the evening, a great winery, a secluded guesthouse for the night’s stop—this is the Croatia I love!

If you want to grab a drink along the way, this spot’s perfect for you! ;)

The trio of specialties: oysters, vineyards, and wild boars!

Luckily, we didn’t run into any of the latter while driving...

The worst part is that sometimes it’s uphill both ways! 🤪

06:45, the alarm goes off.

Visiting Dubrovnik is worth sacrificing a lie-in...

07:30, we leave the house and head toward the world capital of overtourism—36 vacationers per resident in 2019 (21 in Venice, 9 in Paris)...

08:30, we pull into the parking spot we’d scoped out earlier.

Just like the comments on Google Maps said, there’s space, and the spots are a normal size!

Perfect.

The rate of 3 € per hour (capped at 25 € per day) is very reasonable for the city and saves time hunting for a hypothetical metered spot or an even more hypothetical free one.

We set off on foot toward the entrance to the city walls, 2 kilometers away.

The Pile Gate soon comes into view, and we’re no longer the only tourists around.

We ask at the Tourist Office about the Dubrovnik Pass and learn it’s only available online.

Maybe not the best for those who aren’t tech-savvy...

A quick search on the smartphone, a few clicks, and voilà—the precious pass is in our virtual wallets.

At 40 € per person, it’s best not to run out of battery...

After all, just visiting the walls costs 40 €, and this pass also includes entry to many museums!

The streets and alleys are gradually filling up.



Luckily, the walls themselves are relatively crowd-free.

Effective—the fight against overtourism through pricing!

We spend a couple of hours circling them, amazed by the views of the old town, the sea, and Fort Lovrjenac.







Our peace ends as soon as we step inside the walls.

Stradun and other iconic sites in the city aren’t deserted, but it’s not as bad as I expected!













Recent anti-tourist measures seem to be working: limits on short-term rentals, a daily quota for cruise ships, higher prices, and even a ban on rolling suitcases...

Plus, using this site, I made sure to pick days without "sea high-rises" docking.

Only one small ship is scheduled to arrive today, and not before noon!

However, the consequences of years of overtourism can't be erased so easily, and the old town is now little more than a collection of museums, restaurants, ice cream shops, bars, and souvenir stores.

It’s easier to find a magnet than a carton of eggs here...

Some locals are resisting: an old-school barber still operates on the main street, clothes dry on balconies, a playground waits for recess, and a gardener grows his vegetables.







It’s still a bit sad to visit such places, even if the oppressive feeling of an uncontrollable crowd is gone.

How about we grab an early lunch to secure a spot?

We struggle a bit to find our way through the maze of alleys but eventually stumble upon the restaurant we were looking for.

A touristy restaurant like many others, but the quality seems decent enough!

Are you really hungry in this heat?

Not too much...

Shall we share a pizza and a raw vegetable salad?

Okay!

Unlike in France, this small order doesn’t bother the waiter at all, and we’re treated just as well as tables with bigger bills...

The last bite of pizza, the last sip of cider—how about a digestive stroll?

We finish exploring the citadel and then climb up to Fort Lovrjenac.









That short climb did me in—we’ve hiked over 12 kilometers since this morning! Kilometers that are way more tiring than on a regular hike because most of the steps are spent just shuffling along!

We head back to the parking lot by bus, the ticket’s included in the pass.

Then we get the idea to visit the viewpoint overlooking Dubrovnik, accessible by cable car, on foot, or by car.

We go for the last option...

The view could be stunning if it were fully accessible.

But the euro god is worshipped here, and to access the best panoramas, you have to pay...

So we’ll settle for the free side!



60 kilometers by road, 300 meters of walking, a swim.

Isn’t it time for apéritif?

How about a glass of local wine?



Cheers...

A day that ends with a glass of local wine is a good day (especially since it doesn’t seem like we’re drinking plonk 😉)

From what you’re saying, this visit to Dubrovnik doesn’t sound like the nightmare we were expecting (promise?). Was it because there were fewer cruise ship tourists (smart timing on the calendar)? The season? It almost makes me want to go back! 🤪

When I visited, we stayed overnight, and I have a (distant) memory of a peaceful city in the evening, once the ships had picked up their cruise passengers and set sail...

You can't uncork a bottle without Montagnard showing up! 😛

Aren't you a reincarnation of Long John Silver, like the crutch... and a bottle of ruuuum? 😎

Okay, saying there was no one would be a lie, but it wasn’t packed! Fewer people than when I went to Venice and way fewer than at Plitvice Lakes.

June + no massive multi-story cruise ships must definitely play a part.

The price too, plus Dubrovnik’s bad rep when it comes to overtourism.

It got busier starting around lunchtime.

D’you think Bruno would ditch a travel journal on Iran, Afghanistan, or Saudi Arabia?😮😏

Anyway, there’s little chance I’d go to the first two...

Rum will have to wait for the next journal!😛

You can't uncork a bottle without some mountaineer showing up! 😛

Aren't you a reincarnation of Long John Silver, like the crutch... and a bottle of ruuuum? 😎

I'd feel more like Jack Sparrow's generation (youthful effect), but I like the idea

Plus, you're being mean—I've been here from the start 😛

🙁

Do you think Bruno would ditch a travel journal about Iran, Afghanistan, or Saudi Arabia?😮😏

Another dig—I spent a week in Oman! Okay, we did grab some duty-free cartridges at CDG before boarding 🤪

Well, there’s little chance I’ll visit the first two any time soon...

I’d love to visit Iran. In peace.

As for rum, that’ll be for the next journal!😛

Yours or mine? Because in Cape Verde, we didn’t just suck on ice cubes… 🙁

Another slander—I spent a week in Oman!

Doesn’t count, you *can* drink in Oman! 😉 Even if it’s not exactly easy to find...

I’d love to visit Iran.

Same here, but it’s not looking good...

Yours or mine?

Mine!

(For Cape Verde, I totally believe it’s got everything you need!)

A busy day, a rest day...

Today, we continue our discovery of the Pelješac peninsula at a leisurely pace.

First, we take the small road that runs along the coast from the village of Žuljana.

Beaches are regularly marked on Google Maps, but they’re mostly secluded coves that are tricky to access.

Where, indeed, can you park?

Still, we enjoy the stunning views from the road in absolute peace and quiet!

No souvenir shops, no crowds, just a handful of other vehicles.

A different world just a hundred kilometers from Croatia’s biggest tourist hotspot.





We soon pass the small seaside resort of Trstenik and keep going.

A few vineyards now brighten the landscape—la dolce vita, Croatian-style?



Then, the traveler gets a strong urge to go for a swim.

But where to do it?

Why not at the beach we passed half an hour ago?

And so, we turn around and head back to Trstenik.

The water is still refreshingly cool, and the pebbles are still there. With your eyes closed, you could almost imagine you’re near Dieppe...

The outside temperature, Mediterranean scents, and crystal-clear water quickly bring us back to reality—we’re far from the Normandy coast!



This refreshing dip has whetted our appetite. How about lunch?

A few steps away, we find a restaurant with an enticing menu and settle in.

We savor a delicious plate of mussels and a few oysters while letting ourselves be mesmerized by the beauty of this rather untouched landscape.





This isn’t the most thrilling day of the trip, but it’s here that the word *vacation* truly makes sense.

What’s next on the agenda, Agnès?

Uhhh, another swim?

I never found the way to the cove I spotted, so we settle for its neighbor.



A bit of snorkeling, a bit of sunbathing—what an exhausting plan!

We head back to our place via the other side of the peninsula through Brijesta and soon come face-to-face with the photogenic cable-stayed bridge we crossed a few days ago.



The day could’ve ended here, nice and easy, but no...

How about a walk to Saint Michael’s Church?

Where’s this church?

Up there...

The trail isn’t well-marked, and the climb is a bit steep. We arrive at the top of the hill a little sweaty.

The building itself isn’t anything special, but the view of Ston and its salt pans isn’t bad.

A half-success...

All that’s left is to stretch out on the lounge chairs on our terrace, have dinner as the sun sets, and take our evening stroll along Luka’s harbor before wishing you goodnight!

The *métro-boulot-dodo* of Pelješac, basically...

This island is absolutely stunning! Do you have any idea what makes some islands packed and others almost deserted? (I find it pretty surprising... though in the end, it’s kind of the same in Thailand.)

Pelješac is a peninsula located at the crossroads of two better-known attractions: Dubrovnik and Korčula. People pass through but don’t stop—or only in Ston.

And it’s June. It’s not peak season yet. There must be way more people from mid-July to the end of September!

Finally, I wonder if Croatia isn’t losing visitors because of the prices now being charged.

It used to be a very affordable destination, but that’s really not the case anymore. Albania has become a competitor for beach holidays! !