A summer in the sun in... Iceland!! (page 4 of 5)

Thanks for this travel journal—it’s a destination that really appeals to me, and the photos are gorgeous! Family vacations are always the best! !

Thanks Muriel and Isabelle for your encouraging messages 😊!

Good evening Guillaume, I just had a wonderful time reading your amazing travel journal, which took me back about twenty years and introduced me to sites I didn’t know. The photos are stunning. Thanks for sharing. Liliane

Good evening Liliane, Thanks for the compliments! It’s by reading other travel journals that I get my travel ideas, so if I can pay it forward by inspiring you to maybe go back and discover new sites...!

Oh no, it was about time! I just discovered your journal while you’re almost at the end. I just caught up on everything 🙂

Like you, many of us have often wanted to take the plunge and finally postponed a trip to Iceland. You have to do a lot of mental prep before diving in, knowing that your vacation might end up wet and cold! I remember a 7-hour layover at Reykjavik Airport (on the way to the US) where it only rained, with just 11°C in the middle of July 🏴‍☠️. That put us off, and we thought we weren’t ready!

But when you get the chance to visit this fabulous country under favorable conditions, it’s magical. Everything is so beautiful and wild. Your photos are gorgeous and make me want to go back to explore these spectacular landscapes more deeply.

After a few setbacks, especially in South Africa (I just reread your journal about the Cape for an upcoming trip next summer), I’m happy to see you finally kept your promise to see whales 😎. For us, it was puffins we kept missing in Iceland, and we finally saw them this summer in Norway. You need a lot of tenacity!

Your journal helped me add several spots to my favorites list if we ever decide to go back to Iceland in the summer. And it’s not over because Landmannalaugar is really tempting me. These places were unreachable during our too-short stay in April.

Hello Virginie! It’s reassuring to see we’re not the only ones who hesitated for so long to visit this fabulous country that is Iceland 😏!! For the whales, we still missed our meet-ups in South Africa and then in Mexico 🤪! But the reward was even more beautiful in the end!!

Thanks for this journal—a destination that’s so tempting, with lovely photos to illustrate it. Family vacations are always the best!

Hello Manu, Thanks for the kind words, and happy reading—the rest is coming...

Day 16 - 07/21: Landmannalaugar - Skalli Hike

Between the cold and the gusts of wind shaking our tent—way too high and exposed—the night was pretty rough, especially for Laetitia, who barely slept a wink. This promises a day full of good cheer...

After a solid half-hour on the track, we arrive at Landmannalaugar. Since the sky was quite misty at higher altitudes, we decide to head up to Lake Ljótipollur first.

Then, just a few kilometers from Landmannalaugar, a small pass gives us a beautiful view of a lake and an extinct volcano, the Stútur Crater.



Despite the early hour, we get a ranger check to verify we had a reservation for the parking lot just before the ford. After crossing the Landmannalaugar campsite, where we notice most tents are weighed down with rocks because of the wind, we start the Skalli hike, reputed to be the toughest but also the most beautiful in the area—pure magic!

There are two return options: the official long version of 15 km, and a slightly shorter, unmarked route that cuts straight north to join the Bláhnúkur circuit. There are two big climbs—one at the start and the second to go around Skalli. The landscapes are spectacular from the get-go.

The sky is overcast, but that doesn’t dull the vibrant colors of all the massifs around us. These ochre gradients are stunning! As we gain altitude, the landscapes take on more depth.



Some mosses take on an original fluorescent green hue without the sun. At the end of the long climb, we’re rewarded with some gorgeous panoramas!

Like two days ago, as we approach the summit, it starts raining—but this time, we’ve got our ponchos, which we quickly put on. The reward is worth the effort, with beautiful views of the snow-capped peaks.



But the best is yet to come when we take the shortcut on the way back, plunging onto a ridge trail into the heart of the sculpted, multicolored rocks, right above Bláhnúkur!

The areas around Brennisteinsalda and Bláhnúkur are just exceptionally beautiful—we’ve never seen anything like it! 😇 😇

We soak in the multicolored viewpoints from the heights,

before heading down a steeper trail via a ridge, still in the rain

We can only imagine what this panorama would look like under a radiant sky. Even in the rain, it’s unforgettable!

The colors become more varied as we approach Brennisteinsalda, with gray hues and a few fumaroles reminding us we’re in a volcanic zone.

Brennisteinsalda, in the distance, stands out from the other mountains with its red and yellow colors.

Its ascent is planned for tomorrow.

Today, we’re just making our way straight toward the Laugahraun lava field in the distance, with its unsettling black color.



Oh right, I almost forgot—it’s still raining, and our feet are soaked 😏!



A radical change of scenery as we arrive at the lava field, with mostly lava flows and a few patches of moss and fumaroles!



Some green rocks remind us of Death Valley in California.

We’d imagined soaking in the hot springs near Brennisteinsalda, but the drizzle puts us off. After watching SUVs take a few risks to reach the main parking lot, we head back to Landmannahellir.



No café or restaurant in the area to cap off the day in style—we’ll have to settle for pasta with sauce cooked on our gas stove... 🤪

Given the damp and cold, we don’t hesitate to spend long minutes under a scalding shower to warm up before another tough night in our family tent, which isn’t exactly suited to Icelandic winds. 🏴‍☠️

Day 17 - 07/22: Landmannalaugar Bláhnákur - Brennisteinsalda

After yesterday’s hike at Skalli, we decide to tackle the classic loop: Bláhnákur - Brennisteinsalda.

The wind is already strong at the foot of Bláhnákur. As we climb, it gets even stronger, and the gusts become downright violent.

Since we’re on a ridge, the risk of falling becomes serious when we’re only halfway up . We decide to turn back—no point reaching the summit if we can’t enjoy it in decent conditions.

After crossing the lava field, like yesterday,



we settle for the Brennisteinsalda loop, which takes us through several fumarole areas.



Then we start the climb to the summit of Brennisteinsalda. Along the way, we’re treated to rainbows of rocks.

At the summit of Brennisteinsalda, the wind is almost as strong as on Bláhnákur! Despite the wind, we still enjoy the stunning colors of the massif !!



We don’t linger and quickly descend to escape the wind. Tim, who slipped on the way up, is limping a bit and brings up the rear.

We then follow the Suðurnámur plateau before returning to the campsite.

In the late afternoon, we warm up for a good hour in Landmannalaugar’s hot spring. One of the most pleasant of the trip—and free...



Day 18 - 07/23: Secret Lagoon, Kerlingarfjöll, and Gullfoss

After a third and final night at Landmannahellir, the goal for the day is to reach Kerlingarfjöll in the center of the island, which requires a 2-hour drive on rough roads from Gullfoss.

Leaving Landmannalaugar via the F225, we take a small detour on another smooth track to reach Rauðaskál. Along the way, the same contrasts of green, gray, and black.

Here’s Rauðaskál: Then, another dip in the geothermal springs at Secret Lagoon.

Like in other hot springs, a shower is mandatory in the simplest of setups. Thanks to the geothermal properties of the Fluðir region, Secret Lagoon is Iceland’s oldest natural pool.

Around the main pool, there’s a teak walkway that lets you get up close to the boiling water sources that feed the bathing area.

The spot is touristy but not as crowded as the Blue Lagoon or Myvatn Baths, and we run into quite a few French people.



Since the weather is supposed to worsen significantly at Hveravellir, we don’t linger at Secret Lagoon and have lunch in the car to reach Kerlingarfjöll by 3 PM. The road is long, often rough, with many pothole sections that require extra caution to avoid damaging the suspension.

The rain keeps getting heavier as we approach Kerlingarfjöll, even though it wasn’t supposed to start until 5 PM. Once again, the forecasts were wrong...

On the way, we pass a Tesla that got a flat tire after venturing onto an F-road it clearly wasn’t allowed on!! That makes me drive even slower to avoid ending up in the same situation .

A few kilometers from our destination, we enjoy the view of the Icelandic Horseshoe Bend,



before thick fog, combined with rain and freezing wind, ruins our chances of exploring Kerlingarfjöll. There’s no point wandering a site with landscapes as stunning as Landmannalaugar if we can’t see the panoramas...

I don’t know if there’s a word for being 100 times more disappointed than disappointed... Just one photo to remember how close we were to visiting... Since I’m limited to 300 photos, I’ll save one from being a shot of pea soup fog. 😕

After Askja, Laki, and to a lesser extent Þakgil, this is another major flop in the Highlands...

We’re almost hitting a full house—but in the wrong way 🏴‍☠️! Now we understand why some people keep coming back to Iceland. Not sure we’re that stubborn...

Originally, we were supposed to camp at Hveravellir, but the heavy rain expected all night across the south forces us to change plans. We backtrack to civilization, enduring another 2.5 hours of rough roads to reach Gullfoss Falls, one of the three highlights of the Golden Circle. It’s definitely worth the detour despite the crowds and can be admired from multiple angles.



For the night, we’re ready to drive all the way to Reykjavik to sleep somewhere dry, but we luck out and find a reasonably priced cottage about 10 km from Geysir, which we plan to visit tomorrow morning. A real stroke of luck—we savor our dry evening while listening to the downpour on the cottage roof!

Oh wow, really unlucky with the weather—from your photos, the landscapes are absolutely stunning, gorgeous 😮

The landscapes of Landmannalaugar are truly stunning, even in the rain. They look like masterpieces! !

Hello, Yes, the Landmannalaugar region is truly a nice and stunning place!

We almost hit the jackpot, but in the wrong way 🏴‍☠️! Now we understand better why some people keep coming back to Iceland again and again. Not sure we’ll be that stubborn...

Well, we’re among those people! Next year, we’re heading back for the 6th time to explore other amazing trails and, why not, get lucky enough to see the earth in action 🌋.

Hi Nathalie,

While planning my trip and browsing through the specialized Facebook groups, I realized that the exploration possibilities in the Highlands are almost endless! At the same time, all those river crossings—even in a 4x4—give me chills sometimes. Anyway, you must be loving every new discovery, because the landscapes inland are extraordinary! 😊

Day 19 - 07/24: Geysir - Reykjavik

Since there were some good showers forecast for this morning, we slept in and only headed to Geysir, which is super well-known and visited thanks to its geyser that erupts every 4-5 minutes. Its nickname is Strokkur, literally "the churn." When it erupts, the water forms a big bubble above the hole before exploding into a jet that can reach up to 30 meters high.

It doesn’t last long, so the camera has to be ready to snap. And for the 5-6 eruptions we saw, the jet didn’t go higher than 15-20 meters.

All around, there are pools and fumaroles—pale copies of what you can see in Yellowstone. But it’s still nice to walk around in this environment.



After our last errands and a lunch at a fast-food place where I found my first Dr Pepper, we explored the capital, which is really pleasant and human-sized. The tour of the interesting monuments and neighborhoods goes quickly, but we enjoyed strolling through the different areas.

The first building we visited, Harpa, is located by the waterfront.



Harpa is Reykjavik’s concert and conference hall, and it’s possible to visit this true architectural masterpiece with its glass panels reflecting the sun’s rays.

Wandering through the streets, a few buildings and churches catch the eye, but the most famous construction in the Icelandic capital is undoubtedly the famous Lutheran cathedral of Reykjavik, a must-see in the heart of the city. You can spot it from afar thanks to its size and original appearance, shaped like a rocket. The interior is much more ordinary—pretty austere, with a series of pillars in clean lines.

What really stands out in the city is the street art. There are quite a few murals and graffiti decorating various houses.



The main streets, like Laugavegur and the street leading to the cathedral, are especially colorful!



In the end, half a day was enough for us to explore the city. We spent a quiet evening at the Middalskot cottage in the Þingvellir region.

Day 20 - 07/25: Geysir - Reykjavik

With the return of good weather, we start with the Bruarfoss waterfalls, which are very photogenic. On maps.me, there was only an 8 km round-trip hiking trail to get there. In practice, the authorities have built a path that lets you get almost right up to the waterfall.

Once there, a bridge lets you cross over the river and photograph the waterfall and the river’s stunning turquoise waters from above!



Next, we visit the third site of the Golden Circle triptych, Þingvellir. This busy spot is known for the Althing, the site of the Icelandic Parliament from the 10th to the 18th century. But really, the main attraction is seeing the boundary between the two tectonic plates, with cliffs and fissures.

A marked trail lets you walk along the Almannagjá fault.

It’s crowded, but since the site is so spread out, it’s manageable.



This trail takes us to the Oxarafoss waterfall.



Another point of interest is the Þingvellir church, located near many bodies of water.



The church is closed to the public, but peeking through the windows, there’s nothing remarkable inside.

After lunch, we stop by the Kerid crater to walk around it.

This crater was formed by the collapse of a volcano due to a magma chamber. What makes it remarkable is the contrast between the bright red volcanic rock surrounding the crater and the green moss that grows on its slopes in summer.



Our next planned visit is the Hveradalir geothermal area, but it’s a big letdown—there’s almost nothing to see except a few fumaroles...

So we move on to the Krysuvik site, another geothermal area on the Reykjanes Peninsula, a region particularly rich in geothermal phenomena. Here, we enjoy lava fields, fissures, solfataras, mud pots, and other hot springs—much more interesting and fun to explore.



The mud pots are impressive!

On the way to Reykjavik, we make one last stop by a lake where Tim and Max have a skipping stones contest

J21 - 07/26: Reykjanes Peninsula

Since our visit to Reykjavik was moved up, the last day’s program is limited to the Reykjanes Peninsula, with a few picturesque churches,

a stroll along the seafront at the foot of a lighthouse,

and especially the geothermal area of Gunnuhver. It’s simply one of the hottest geothermal zones in the region, with temperatures recorded at 300°C. You’ll find mud pots and other fumaroles there.

All this energy is harnessed by geothermal plants built right next to it.

Continuing along the coast toward the recent lava flows from the June volcanic eruptions near Grindavik, we take a short break in front of this saltwater pool called Brimketill. No one feels like going down after our recent misadventures in Lanzarote.

A few kilometers from the new lava field, and as we suspected, the road is blocked, preventing us from getting any closer. No question of breaking the rules, so we turn back and head to the western tip of the peninsula.

A symbolic stop at the bridge connecting the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates,

and we visit one last remarkable church built from volcanic stone, Hvalneskirkja.

We have lunch in the early afternoon at a Thai restaurant in Keflavik, then wander around the village looking for something to do. Not much to see except for a few murals, a walk along the pier with a nice anchor, and a restored boat.



It’s then time to clean the car, return it, and calmly head to our return flight at 12:30 AM, bound for Frankfurt.

With the time difference, it’ll be a very short night before landing in Germany, picking up our little ones in Alsace, and heading back south.

Epilogue:

Iceland, the land of fire and ice, has truly earned its nickname. We were blown away by the diversity of its landscapes—glaciers, waterfalls, mountains with incredible color contrasts, hikes in extraordinary settings, volcanic lands with fumaroles and geysers, and finally, the many hot springs...

We all loved this trip, and Maxime even ranks it in his Top 3!

In three weeks, we managed to visit most of the easily accessible spots. But for those in the Highlands, the experience was much more mixed. The bad weather and our unsuitable vehicle forced us to give up several times—too many times for it not to affect our overall impression. 😕

Iceland reminds us that nature is infinitely more powerful than humans, and that you have to be very patient and willing to brave rain, fog, wind, and storms over and over to live an extraordinary experience. Not sure we’re cut out for that kind of travel, since the weather plays such a big role in how we feel about a trip!

As for the downsides, I’d mention the lack of contact with locals—many accommodations were managed remotely. And finally, the budget: yes, Iceland is an expensive destination if you want to travel with a minimum of comfort, activities, and the occasional restaurant meal...

If this travel journal has convinced any of you to give it a try or go back, then it’s served its purpose. 😉 !

Iceland-tastic! 🙂

(I’m a little embarrassed to greet such great work with just one word.)

Iceland-tastic! :)

(I’m a little embarrassed to greet such great work with just one word.)

You, with your way with words, know better than anyone that it’s the quality of the words that really matters. And here, it hits the mark !

Thanks Guillaume for this beautiful travel journal 🙂.

If this journal has convinced anyone to give it a try or go back, then it’s been useful 😉

The unpredictable weather, the risk of gray skies and cold, still put me off (a bit like the Lofoten!)... but your photos really capture the beauty of the landscapes, and that’s already a lot 😉.

Thanks Guillaume, for this amazing travel journal. What a beautiful country! Another one to add to my wish list. Françoise

Hi Guillaume,

Thanks for this lovely travel journal and these gorgeous photos. You’re way more motivated than I am—I’ve got three Iceland journals overdue 😅.

While wandering the streets, a few buildings and churches catch the eye, but the most famous construction in the Icelandic capital is undoubtedly the well-known Lutheran cathedral of Reykjavik, a must-see in the heart of the city

Just a little correction: Hallgrímskirkja isn’t a cathedral but a church!

Wow, what stunning photos!!!!!!!! What camera are you using?

The weather wasn’t super great... and camping, wow, that took some guts!!

Iceland’s been on my list for a few years too, but like you, the feedback on the climate and especially the prices has put us off so far. I feel like, just like everywhere else, things aren’t going to get any better, so we’ll have to go for it! Maybe summer 2027 (summer 2026 we’re doing a round trip in the US)...

Anyway, thanks for this travel journal—I’ll keep it in mind when the time comes!!

Thanks Muriel, Françoise, and Nathalie for your messages 🙂.

You’re more motivated than me—I’ve got three Iceland travel journals behind!

When you start having more than one travel journal overdue, it’s tough to find the motivation. I feel you, because I sometimes have to push myself not to give up either

Wow, what stunning photos!!!!!!!!! What camera do you use?

The weather wasn’t super kind... and camping, wow, that took some guts!!

Iceland’s been on my list for a few years too, but like you, the feedback on the climate and especially the prices has put us off so far. It feels like, everywhere, things aren’t going to get any better, so we’ll just have to go for it! Maybe summer 2027 (summer 2026 is a road trip in the US)..

Anyway, thanks for this travel journal—I’ll keep it in mind when the time comes!!

Thanks for the kind words 😊. The camera is an old Canon EOS R, the brand’s first mirrorless model, with the three standard lenses: 16-35, 24-70, and 70-200. The puffin photos were taken with a Sigma 150-600, which I’ve since sold since I don’t have any safaris planned in the near future. Plus, it’s way too heavy and bulky for our new way of traveling as light as possible.

Maybe we’ll cross paths in the US in 2026! I’m planning a 3-week active loop in Utah-Arizona in May, and another 3-week family loop in Colorado-Moab-Sedona-New Mexico next July 😇

Don’t forget to buy your America the Beautiful Pass this month in digital format on recreation.gov. You’ve probably heard through the media or social networks that the price of the Pass triples in January...