Review of an expedition cruise to the Seychelles with Ponant from January 25 to February 2, 2026 (page 4 of 11)

Hi Catherine,

I’d read some really bad reviews about Sixt, which is why I trusted the hotel instead. With the first rental company, the terms included insurance... until I arrived. 😕

The upside of the Seychelles is that you don’t drive many kilometers or keep the vehicle for long. Plus, on my booking, the info was clearly written in French. Another perk is being able to pick it up at the airport and drop it off at the port for just a 17 € supplement noted on the voucher. I’ll admit, maybe wrongly, that I don’t pay much attention to reviews except for hotels when they’re posted through a booking platform like Booking.com, Hotels.com, etc...

In hindsight, I regretted not opting for public transport, which is plentiful.

For me, the freedom to go where I want, when I want—without the constraints of public transport—is part of what makes a destination worth choosing. Obviously, that doesn’t apply to city getaways 😄

Looking forward to sharing the great Seychellois moments soon.

Thursday, January 22, Victoria, Mahé

We start the day with a visit to the market.





I’ve got a vanilla order for my friends from Normandy. The day’s off to a good start—after negotiating, I get a 33% discount for thirty packets, bringing the price down to 2.20 € for a small packet of 5 vanilla pods.

We pick up some tomatoes and mangoes, but we get tricked—even though I asked for ripe ones, they’re green and won’t ripen before we leave.

After a quick lunch, we set off by car on the "Sans Souci" road, which is quite misleadingly named. It’s the road that crosses the island from east to west. Online, it’s described as a scenic drive. So far, so good. But driving on this narrow, winding road isn’t exactly worry-free—it’s tough to pass other drivers who speed down the middle of the road, with deep ditches right next to the pavement. And don’t even get me started on the buses that barrel through without a care for other vehicles.

Still, you’ve got to take this route to cross the island and reach the Morne Seychellois National Park. Lined with lush, varied tropical vegetation, the road is beautiful, but there’s nowhere to pull over. Not a single parking spot or sign for hiking trails. The only marked trail is the Copolia Trail (paid), but there’s no place to park except in the ditches on the side of the road.

We have to wait until we reach Venn’s Town, Mission Ruins, to find a proper parking lot.

At this historic site, we’re warmly welcomed. It also has an ecological significance, being rich in endemic species. The trees are magnificent.



This mission, where freed slaves were given work and their children educated, was established in 1876 at a time when Anglican and Catholic churches were promoting their respective faiths in the Seychelles. The site stands as a testament to the era of slavery. The trail leads us to a panoramic viewpoint.



The coastal regions of the west would probably be even more stunning to admire in the sunshine. The visit is short but pleasant.

Thursday, January 22, Victoria, Mahé (continued)

We continue on our way toward Sauzier Waterfall. We stop in Port Glaud. Lucky us! We find a legal parking spot for the car right by the beach, between two trash bins, so we can keep going on foot.



We walk along a mangrove waiting for the tide to come back in before continuing through a neighborhood of charming little houses.





Then we hit a toll, and the path narrows through the forest.



At the base of the waterfall, in the water reserve, people are swimming. For us, the view is enough. We find a spot to stop on a long beach before starting the return trip via the Misère Road. This Misère Road is the second road crossing the island from east to west, just south of the Sans Souci Road. During this crossing of the Morne Seychellois massif, which peaks at 906 meters, we try to find the Exotics Garden Centre—a garden featuring 50,000 exotic plants and flowers in a natural setting, or so we’ve heard... It must be well hidden because there’s no sign of it. No matter how many locals I ask—who all say, "Yes, yes, it’s further up"—we can’t find it. There’s no signage, no parking lot. Nothing.

Back in Victoria, after dropping off the car at the hotel parking lot and feeling relieved to have returned in one piece without damaging the car, we end the day with a short walk to visit the Catholic Cathedral of Victoria. It’s necessary to unwind because driving on these roads is a nightmare.





Our evening errands keep us busy and give us the chance to step into a local supermarket, something I always enjoy doing to discover products and shopping habits we’re not familiar with. We head back by stopping at the Indian takeaway like yesterday, right next to the temple—it’s really good.

However, in the south, there are still some nice spots and beaches like: Anse la Mouche, Anse Soleil, Anse Takamaka, Police Bay...

Hi Alfred,

We’ll be heading south in the next episode. 😉

The advantage of the Seychelles is that you don’t cover many kilometers and don’t keep the vehicle for long.

Hey Jérôme,

True, you don’t cover many kilometers, but the time spent compared to the distances traveled is nothing like what we’re used to in other countries. 😉

Friday, January 23, Victoria, Mahé

Our last day with the car (phew!). Driving here is so exhausting and dangerous that I’ll be really happy to return it—and my husband, who’s the one driving, even more so.

We wanted to see Eden Island, an artificial island south of Victoria with luxury villas and a few shops.

When it came time to get in the car—for just five kilometers and likely parking difficulties at the other end—we changed our minds and decided to walk instead.

It wasn’t the most pleasant stroll, with all the smelly, noisy cars, but it was just an hour’s walk and a good way to spend the morning. Below are the best views we came across; the rest… wasn’t exactly pretty.





Unless you’re into recycled-tire art, that is:



We were glad we came without the car—just like everywhere else on this island, there’s no parking at all. Eden Island is a big, modern complex, but in my opinion, it’s not that interesting.





There are big cafés with huge terraces and lots of pleasure boats.



The whole place is well-maintained, peaceful, and luxurious—but soulless. We couldn’t go any further; access to the residences is gated and secured.



In the early afternoon, we set off again—this time by car—heading south. The coastal road is wider and less winding, so it’s less of a hassle than the one crossing the island from east to west.

Sea views are rare, and we only found one public parking spot where we could stop, just before Anse Royale. The beach is beautiful, there’s even a bit of sunshine, but if you’re lying under the trees, you’d better be tolerant of the music blasting from the neighboring family…



We looked for Le Jardin du Roi, a park described as enchanting, exotic, and full of orchids, tiaré flowers, and species imported from India or Indonesia. But… once again, we searched in vain. No sign of the park, no signs, no directions, no parking—just a narrow, winding road that never seemed to end. When we reached the opposite coast, we turned back and kept searching, but still—nothing. It was impossible to find.

We’re tired of these impossible-to-find sites and the lack of infrastructure that makes it hard to stop and enjoy a landscape or a village.

On the way back, we stopped at a bar—the only way to park and access a beach.



After returning the car to the hotel, we went out again to stretch our legs and see where the port is—where we’ll board the *Bellot* in two days. We can’t wait to set off.

Saturday, January 24, Victoria, Mahé

This morning, we had a little guest joining us for breakfast. Even though the cook shooed it away with dish towels, it didn’t hesitate to come back as soon as she turned her back.



It’s our last full day waiting for departure. We head out for a little stroll through the most charming and pleasant streets of the city, where part of the morning market is held.





At the main covered market, we pick up some more mangoes and mini bananas that we enjoy, along with a few last-minute souvenir purchases.

After storing these purchases in the fridge, we set off again in search of the fish market (Oh yes, it’s a must for me). A police officer points us in the right direction—they’re usually smiling and very approachable.

It’s a tiny market with just a few stalls, but it’s well-stocked and lively. Some of the fish have colors we’re not used to seeing. This market is located near English River.







For now, the different markets are scattered around various parts of the city, but a municipal project aims to bring them together in one place. However, it’s taking a long time to get everyone on board, as usual.

Our afternoon plans fall through—the museum is closed today and tomorrow.

Entry to the botanical garden costs 15 € per person. That seems like a steep price for what the city has to offer—just to see three tortoises and a few palm trees. I think we’ve had enough of being here; all we want is to leave. We shouldn’t have stayed this long. I really regret it and don’t understand the hype around this destination. It’s dirty, ugly, and polluted. Maybe you just need to stay in a luxury hotel on the beach and live between the hotel and the beach? For those who like that kind of vacation.

We wander around to pass the time, but our hearts aren’t in it. We’ve never been this disappointed or bored. We love walking, but here, it’s not even enjoyable.





And we end the day once again at our favorite takeaway spot—tonight, it’s a fish dish, still very good. I’ve enjoyed Indian cuisine so much during this stay that I didn’t even feel like going to a restaurant. It’s also worth noting that the restaurants, except for Marie-Antoinette, aren’t very appealing.

Hi Catherine,

I totally get the relief of returning the car. You and your husband were brave to drive in Victoria—it’s just impossible for us!

About Eden Island, I agree with you—it’s really nothing special. Just concrete, concrete, and a few small boats, a little shopping center... Meh. I was pretty disappointed too and left feeling unsatisfied. That said, when you’re on the "Route de la Misère," the view of Eden Island is actually gorgeous.

As for Anse Royale, I think the beach is less beautiful than it used to be. Maybe it was low tide that day? From what I remember, it seemed nicer than that. We even went swimming, and there was a beachfront restaurant that rented sun loungers—we stayed for quite a while. But now, I don’t find it as pretty.

The fish market in Doha has nothing on this one, we agree. Anyway, there’s a huge contrast between Victoria and Doha—no comparison.

Looking forward to the rest! Alfred

Hey Catherine,

The least we can say is that you’re not exactly promoting the destination 😅 But I’m still hopeful 🤞

Hi Alfred,

I understand the relief of returning the car. You and your husband are brave to drive in Victoria—it’s truly impossible for us.

It wasn’t bravery, just ignorance I couldn’t have imagined that way of driving before seeing it with my own eyes.

On the other hand, when you’re on the road to misery, the view of Eden Island is gorgeous. For Anse Royale, I find the beach less beautiful than before. Maybe it was low tide that day? From what I remember, it seemed more beautiful than that.

At this stage of the trip, I’m not at all blown away by the beaches or landscapes of the Seychelles—I find them really disappointing. I’ve been lucky enough to see much more beautiful beaches elsewhere, whether in South Africa, Australia, New Zealand, or even France. Later on, we *do* see some stunning beaches, but not on Mahé Island.

The least we can say is that you’re not exactly promoting the destination 😅 But I’m still hopeful 🤞

Hi Jérôme,

When planning this trip, I would’ve loved to read comments that were less glowing and more realistic. It’s better to know beforehand and be pleasantly surprised than to build up false expectations. Keep your spirits up—every trip is different. I hope your stay turns out better than mine did.

Hi Catherine,

Driving doesn’t worry me, and I can’t imagine it being worse than in India—a country I’ve visited several times.

For the beaches, I’m ignoring the ones I’ve already seen on previous trips. And to be honest, I’m not one to lounge for hours. I take a dip, dry off, and I’m off! 😄

Hi Catherine,

In my opinion, the most beautiful beaches on Mahé (though not the most beautiful in the Seychelles 😉) are on the southwest side of the island (Anse Intendance and especially Anse Takamaka). However, it’s definitely not always easy to find a parking spot there 😕. We stayed above Anse Royale beach, and I think it’s the only "real" parking area to access a beach.

Also, the sky looks pretty overcast in your photos, and that really affects the water’s colors (which are much prettier and more varied under a clear blue sky).

Hi Catherine, I’m adding to this review—personally, I have such great memories of the SEYCHELLES. Of course, the weather plays a big part, and I’m sure you’ll soon show us stops even prettier than Victoria! 😉

Hi Catherine,

Driving doesn’t worry me, and I can’t imagine it being worse than in India—a country I’ve visited several times.

Hi Jérôme,

Thinking back to my tuk-tuk ride in Kochi, I can totally believe India is good driving practice for the Seychelles. 😏

Also, the sky looks quite overcast in your photos, which really affects the colors of the water (they’re much prettier and more varied under a bright blue sky).

Hi Muriel,

You’re right—we weren’t exactly blessed with great sky colors for this part of the trip. We only got two or three shy glimpses of sun, nowhere near enough to bring out the sea’s beautiful hues.

Hi Isa,

Welcome here. You’re arriving just in time, when the clouds are about to clear.

Sunday, January 25, finally!!!! Boarding! Victoria, Mahé

From our hotel room, we can see the Bellot has arrived. At breakfast, we meet several couples who, like us, are boarding the Bellot.

Check-out is at 10 AM—way too early for a hotel, especially since boarding isn’t until 4 PM. We got a text from Ponant warning us not to arrive early because they wouldn’t be able to welcome us. I found the approach a bit cavalier, saying it like that... I have a little thought for our friend Poupou—I think I know what she’d say. 😉

To kill time on this last day, we wanted to have lunch at the Marie-Antoinette restaurant near the hotel, which is supposed to be really good. But no luck—it’s closed on Sundays. In fact, all the shops and the whole town are closed. Only the immigrants doing tough roadwork are working.

After leaving our suitcases at the front desk, we head out to wander aimlessly through the city to pass the time. It’s hot—really hot and humid for walking, especially with no real destination. The city is deserted, but the upside is it’s less noisy and there are fewer exhaust fumes.





After 2.5 hours of dragging ourselves around in the heat, we come across a frozen-food store that’s open. What a great find—we can cool off for a bit.

Then we keep walking. At the foot of the museum, on the terrace of the old colonial house, there’s finally a bar open. It has a nice shaded terrace with a gentle breeze that’s just perfect. Other days, it wasn’t appealing at all, right in the middle of deafening traffic, but today, with no one in the streets and no cars, it’s completely different. We stay there for a while—it’s really pleasant.



Since my husband needs internet, we slowly head back to the hotel. A small room next to the breakfast terrace, with a shower and toilets, is made available to us—very nice and clean.

We settle at the breakfast tables to wait for the taxi. A light breeze is welcome, but the wooden benches, even with a cushion, are really uncomfortable.



The taxi takes us to the port for 150 rupees (8.82 €)—it’s great to see an honest taxi driver, that’s rare. But where he drops us, we don’t see the ship. "It’ll arrive," they tell us. No, it’s already here! That’s when they realize the hotel gave the wrong port when booking the ride. No problem, we get back in the car and drive a few kilometers further. This time, we’re dropped right at the foot of the Bellot.

There are quite a few people on the dock. We’re directed to the table handing out cabin cards, and our luggage is taken away.

We go straight onto the ship, see the doctor, register our credit card, and in less than 5 minutes, we’re already in our cabin. I don’t understand what happened. Why didn’t we have to wait like the other passengers under the tent set up on the port? Oh well, lucky us.

There’s a mistake on my cabin card—I’ve been downgraded in the loyalty program and am now an "Amiral" instead of "Grand Amiral." The benefits aren’t the same. I’ll complain—I have proof of my loyalty level with a photo of my card from the last cruise, and it should get sorted out. This mess happened in Marseille again, even though I wrote to complain about it at the beginning of January. They replied saying they’d taken care of it.

After unpacking and taking a shower, we head to the grand salon for our first glass of nice, chilled champagne. We’re so, so happy to finally be on board.



Next up are the briefings about the program for the next two days, life on board for new passengers who don’t know the company, instructions for zodiac landings, and finally, the drill. It was a bit long because the meeting was bilingual. Future briefings and lectures will be separate for French and English speakers. There are 140 passengers and 135 crew members.

The ship sets sail at 7 PM. On the water, the temperature is perfect, and it’s lovely to sit out on the terrace. The meal is delicious—I expected nothing less. Tonight, seating was open on the terrace, but from tomorrow, we’ll need to reserve if we want to dine outside.

After the hell of the Seychelles, paradise begins here… We’re going to be blown away.

Ah, finally boarding! This last day in Victoria was much more pleasant than the others. I really liked stopping by the frozen-food shop for a bit of freshness 😎

I also had a thought for Isabelle when Ponant announced we shouldn’t arrive too early...

I’m all set to follow you through the amazing stops ahead.

Hi Catherine,

You’re right—this last day actually went better than I’d feared, apart from the fact that we didn’t do anything. 😉

There’s one positive thing about Victoria I forgot to mention. We wandered through neighborhoods I didn’t talk about because they weren’t particularly interesting, but we never felt unsafe or got hostile looks. On that front, we were totally at ease.