One-month road trip in Namibia (page 4 of 7)

July 15th: a transition day today. We’ve got 350 km to cover to leave the coast and head back inland. Along this route that’ll take us to the Little Sossus Lodge campsite, there’ll be plenty of photo stops—the scenery is just stunning. There’s the Kuiseb River canyon, Gaub Pass, Solitaire, and crossing the Tropic of Capricorn.

















Breathtaking landscapes, each one totally different from the next

Hi Mathilde,

A huge THANK YOU for letting me return to Namibia and revisit so much of what we saw during our 4 trips there (the last one in 2012). I was really happy to see images of the petrified trees again—such a striking sight, and something few travelers mention. I also had a (big) emotional moment seeing the table set in the middle of the bush for the end-of-safari sundowner, organized in the Palmwag concession. That’s where we teared up with happiness (no exaggeration!) watching the sun set with a glass of white wine in hand, in the silence and cool of the evening....!!! Later, at the Palmwag campsite, in the pitch-black night, I found myself "nose to trunk," just 1 meter away from a desert elephant crossing the camp...

A small note: you included a portrait image of an impala at the start of your story. It’s actually a black-faced impala, which is only found in Angola and Etosha, where it was introduced. (Look for the black mark between the forehead and snout, and on the legs.) I hadn’t seen one since our trips to Etosha. Apparently, it’s an endangered species...

I can’t wait for the rest, because in 2012, we only explored the south... Thanks again!

...

July 16th: So I told my husband, "If we go to Namibia, I *have* to do the TTT (Tok Tokkie Trail), and that’s non-negotiable." He agreed with me 😏... and we booked it. We didn’t really have much choice with the dates since it was already fully booked for the ones we wanted. Originally, we were supposed to start our trip with this and end in Etosha, doing the reverse route, but when we went to book, there were no spots left—even though we reserved this trek 15 months in advance 🤪.

Luckily, Tourmaline was quick to respond in our messages, and we were able to adjust the trip so we could still do it.

Practically speaking, this trek involves walking for 3 days and 2 nights under the stars in the Namib Rand, a private reserve.

We had a meet-up by 1 p.m. at the latest at Tok Tokkie Homestead, but it was recommended to arrive earlier for lunch and the briefing.

So we left calmly in the morning from our campsite since it was only 90 km to our meet-up spot. The road is... absolutely stunning, and when we arrived, I instantly fell in love with the landscapes around us. It’s breathtaking. I’m having a hard time choosing which photos to share!









Here we are, arrived!



Briefing, meal, and packing our daypack with water and a camera (it needs to stay light). We also prepare the bags for 2 nights and 2 days, but we won’t be carrying them—a car will drop them off directly at our first stop. A 4x4 takes us to the starting point of the hike. And we’re off!











The guide is amazing. He keeps stopping to check if we’re okay and gives explanations at every turn—about the trees, plants, animals we see, tracks in the sand, even the droppings we find... nothing gets left out

Hi Alain,

So happy to bring back good memories 🙂 Yes, that sunset with a drink in hand was an unforgettable moment. You were so lucky with the elephant! Thanks for the impala info—I hadn’t noticed with the others we came across 😮. I’ll go through my photos again to check

We’re a group of 8 people plus the guide. From what I understand, groups rarely exceed this number, and the trek runs three times a week (there are two guides in total, and they take turns leading the hike). It doesn’t happen when it’s too hot—and you can definitely see why.













We arrive at the campsite as the sun sets. Everything’s already set up. Let me explain how it all works. There’s a "fixed" wooden structure where the cook and her assistant prepare meals. There are toilets and a shower like this one:



Drinks are available. A big table is set up with woolen ponchos on each chair. Camp beds are arranged by "family" and spaced apart for privacy. Each bed comes with a thick sleeping bag, and we can use the ponchos for extra warmth if we want. There are small solar lamps at each spot, a water container for washing hands and brushing teeth, small mats at the foot of each bed to keep sand out, and even a little table. And—here’s the cherry on top—just before bedtime, they put hot water bottles in our sleeping bags. Oh wow, what a treat because it gets cold fast once the sun’s gone down. The aperitif is on the house, then the cook and her assistant serve dinner. It includes a starter, a main course, and dessert—all local. It was really tasty and filling. During the evening, we get an astronomy session. The sky is so clear and beautiful. Everyone turns in early, hats on , even though we’re buried in our sleeping bags 😛. The Milky Way is right above us. No need to crane our necks—lying down, we can see it in all its sublime, wonderful glory.

Aaaah! The toktokkie trail! A dream (still not realized) and your story makes me want to go again 😎 (but 15 months in advance, it's hard to plan 😕)

Hi Mathilde,

A little late, but I’m happily jumping into the 4x4 with you. 🙂

Your photos bring back memories of our trips to Namibia. We’ve been there three times and loved the landscapes, the wildlife, and the fact that you can do some great hikes.

We also went through Tourmaline. I planned the itineraries myself, and Tourmaline handled the bookings. They were very efficient, and it was actually really convenient and no more expensive.

The Tok Tokkie Trail is unforgettable—this desert is so beautiful. We loved that stop too.

In 2016, we also went up to Epupa, and like you, I didn’t enjoy the “excursion” to see the Himbas.

I’d love to go back to Namibia, but I’m afraid I’d be disappointed after our three trips. It seems much more touristy now. We were there in June-July 2016 for 4 weeks, in 2017 for only 8 days, and in 2018 for 3 1/2 weeks. Each time, a different itinerary and combining the trip with other neighboring countries.

I’m looking forward to reading the rest, especially since you’re taking your time to really enjoy the stops. Too many travelers “do” Namibia at a breakneck pace.

Hi Muriel,

We had date constraints, so we had to plan ahead, and when there are obligations, there’s inevitably less flexibility. With the dates we had, 18 months before our departure we could do the trip in one direction, but 15 months before, we couldn’t anymore. So we quickly booked the TTT before there were no spots left at all. After that, if you have more flexibility than we did, maybe you don’t need to book so far in advance. Definitely worth looking into, because it’s absolutely necessary—especially if it’s a dream trip!

Hi Carmen,

Welcome to the car too! 🙂 That’s exactly what we did with Tourmaline. We planned our trip, and they booked everything for us (car, campsites, lodges, and excursions). Yes, the Himbas were a letdown, and the Skeleton Coast (TTT) was a huge highlight for me. I had the opposite experience like that 😏

Yeah, we took our time doing it. My kids said: "We could’ve gone to Lüderitz," and I replied: "You have to make choices—we only have 4 weeks, and there’s already so much driving... so we preferred going to Epupa Falls. Next time, we’ll explore more of the south. 😛 We’ve barely scratched the surface, so we’ll have to come back.

I don’t know how it was before, but there are still plenty of very "natural" places. Afterward, I think it’s mostly around the "sites" where new lodges are being built. There’s definitely a lot of choice... I hope the government puts a stop to it for the country’s sake and to protect the people. I’m always a little unsettled seeing kids begging for water at the start of a road, then a few kilometers later, a lodge with a pool and unlimited water.

Hi there, So far I’ve been loving your travel journal—it’s bringing back so many amazing memories—and then, bam! TTT? And I missed it???? Okay, now I *have* to go back 🏴‍☠️

Anyway, I’ll cling to my excuses: we were in the middle of Covid, and the trek wasn’t happening for health reasons... Honestly, I don’t even know, but it makes me feel better

But I *will* have to go back someday 😉 In the meantime, I’ll be hanging on for your next post

Ah! NamibRand—one of the most powerful moments from our trips to Namibia... It’s truly the place where we felt like we were... alone in the world 😊. We didn’t do the TTT because every time we went, it was winter, but in a few years, when we can travel more easily, I hope to do it 🤞.

July 17th: 2nd day of the Tok Tokkie Trail. The longest in terms of walking time since we have to reach our second base camp. We can't stop talking about the landscapes we're seeing. We're on foot, so our field of vision stays the same, but honestly, it feels like the scenery keeps changing all the time. It's wild. Question for those who've done the TTT: did you feel the same way I did?













We climb up a small hill: two completely different vibes when we reach the top. On the left:

On the right:

Hey Bruno

What, you didn’t do the TTT? Big mistake 🙁 😏 Definitely need to go back there then

Oh, I really hope you get to experience it, Isabelle—it’s absolutely amazing! We were there at the perfect time because it wasn’t too hot during the day, even though the nights were pretty chilly. On the flip side, though, we didn’t see any animals (chameleon, scorpion, etc.)

Question for those who've done the TTT: did you have the same experience as me?

Yeah, with the changing light, you get the impression the landscape shifts. We were there in April and had an unforgettable storm the first night. I wrote about it in my 2018 travel journal.

Quick question—didn’t you guys go to Sesriem to see the different dunes and vleis?

After a short trek through the rocky terrain, we find the beautiful red sand again.





You wonder how flowers manage to grow in such a dry place.







Mealtime is approaching. As always, everything is well organized—a tent is waiting for us. Underneath, there are chairs that recline. Sandwiches and fruit are available.



And the coffee water heats up naturally.

It’s awesome. A bit long but efficient. We take a nice break here.

Hey Bruno

What, you didn’t do the TTT? Big mistake 🙁 😏 Yeah, we’ll definitely have to go back there then

I think I’m gonna stop reading this travel journal 😉 : I’m fuming!! 😤😡 I’m this close to calling Tourmaline to give them a piece of my mind

Oh no, that must not have been fun with a storm. I guess they made you sleep in a tent then? I must have read your travel journal but I don’t remember everything. I’ll go read it again 🙂

Yeah, we went to Sesriem but later. We made a small route change due to the TTT dates.

😮 poor Tourmaline

After the break, we hit the road again





















There are no words. It's sublime, wonderful, magical... I'm running out of superlatives