South Africa in safari mode: February/March 2026 (page 4 of 9)

I think it’s Agnès who’s a big fan of giraffes. She’s in for a treat here! 🙂

In the morning, we head back to camp to enjoy a hearty breakfast, prepared with the embers from the night before.



The camp, by daylight, is just as beautiful, and the animals are right nearby.





Overall, Mkhaya was a huge hit. Logistics and camp organization could’ve been better, but it was still a wonderful escape. You really feel at peace and immersed in nature. Sleeping in the open hut was a magical experience. Thanks, Christelle, for this lovely gift for my 50th (originally, it was supposed to be a night in Wadi Rum in Jordan, but we had to cancel the trip due to the ongoing conflict).

More to come soon!

Thanks Christelle for this lovely gift for my 50th birthday (originally it was a night in Wadi Rum in Jordan, but we had to cancel the trip due to the ongoing conflict)

A lovely gift indeed—from what I remember, access to the reserve isn’t cheap...

For Wadi Rum, we almost could’ve crossed paths—I was in for two nights in the desert myself... But it’s only postponed

The experience of sleeping in the open hut is magical.

I thought it was really cool too! 😛

And also when the guide took us on foot just a few meters from a rhino. 🙂

access to the reserve isn't guaranteed...

There’s an option that doesn’t include the overnight stay—just 8 hours during the day plus lunch.

But the real highlight is the overnight package...

The 24-hour package price is still very reasonable compared to other private reserves.[;]

Hi! Night at Mkhaya (which means "home" or "your home" in Swazi Zulu. Ekhaya = at home). Did you notice the small wall and the little gated door? At night, hyenas very frequently wander through the camp. Don’t worry! A hyena can’t jump. The wall and the gate are enough.

That’s the ranger’s answer to friends who were woken up and a bit uneasy when they heard and saw the hyenas at night! 😊

I got to see a black rhino up close— Mbali (“flower” in Zulu) A walking approach to a group of rhinos at close range And a white wildebeest Plus a meal in near darkness Just the two of us along the dried-up river Mkhaya is still a great memory Thanks

Access to the reserve isn't free...

There’s an option that doesn’t include an overnight stay—just 8 hours during the day plus lunch.

But the most interesting part is the overnight stay...

The 24-hour package price is still very reasonable compared to other private reserves.😉

It’s clear you’ve got to stay overnight at Mkhaya! Our 24-hour package with the overnight stay, meals, and safaris cost 408 € for 2 people.

Thanks Christelle for this lovely gift for my 50th birthday (originally it was a night in Wadi Rum in Jordan, but we had to cancel the trip due to the ongoing conflict breaking out)

A lovely gift indeed—from what I remember, access to the reserve isn’t cheap...

For Wadi Rum, we almost could’ve crossed paths—we had two nights in the desert lined up... But it’s only postponed

Hey Bruno, We also had a two-night package planned, right at the very start of the conflict. Jordan is still at the top of our list—postponed for us too.

I got to see a black rhino up close Mbali ("flower" in Zulu) A walking approach to a group of rhinos at very close range And a white... wildebeest And a meal in near darkness As a couple along the dried-up river Mkhaya remains a great memory Thanks

Giraffes and white rhinos for us. We didn’t manage to spot a black rhino among the forty or so rhinos we saw during this trip.

Next up!

We left Mkhaya at 4 PM and didn’t dawdle on the way since we had to reach Hlane before the gate closed at 6 PM. Despite some GPS issues that weren’t working, we found our way using the printed route we’d prepared.

The drive went smoothly—the road was paved, and the locals were friendly.





We arrived well before closing, with no issues except for a few cows on the road.



The welcome at Hlane was really warm—it felt great.



Hlane doesn’t always have the best reputation on forums because it’s a small reserve that some feel is too much like a zoo. We’d initially chosen Hlane to do the rhino drive and try to spot them on foot. But since we’d already had amazing rhino sightings—including on foot—at Mkhaya, we decided to go for a sunrise drive at dawn the next morning instead.

Tonight, it’s time to relax: dinner at the buffet by the watering hole. The experience was… unique. 😉 It was a bit crowded, which was a change since we’d been pretty isolated so far this low season. A busload of French tourists arrived at the same time as us. They were *loud* in the restaurant, and the conversation was, well, *crap* all around. Poor things had picked up some bug as soon as they landed in South Africa, and the trip was dragging because they kept having to make bathroom stops. That was the main topic of conversation, and it totally put me off group travel for good. 😏 The buffet was nothing special—no dessert—and pretty pricey for local standards (15 €).

But at the watering hole, it was a whole different story—rhinos and hippos putting on a show! They were on the other side of the bank, but it was still cool to watch. Plus, in Eswatini, they still have their horns.



We headed back to our hut in the dark, trying not to trip over the wildlife that had settled in for the night.



Our cabin, right near the watering hole, was rustic—no electricity—but totally fine, with a cute little terrace. The lantern lighting gave it a nice charm.



Once again, off to bed early because tomorrow’s another safari day! !

Day 6: Hlane and arrival at Kruger.

This morning, we meet up with our French companions again, but we’re put in a second vehicle with foreign tourists. Off we go for the Sunrise Drive. We’d hesitated about doing it because it was pricier than the ones offered in Kruger Park, but since we were already there, it would’ve been a shame to leave Hlane without taking advantage of it.

We start by coming across a large male elephant. He’s really impressive. We quickly realize that Maxwell, our driver-guide, is a true pro. Super attentive, he gets us as close as possible and positions us perfectly. Later, we’ll spot more elephants.





The vegetation is very dense and lush. It’s really pretty, but it makes it hard to see the animals in these conditions.



Suddenly, Maxwell slams on the brakes

He just spotted two lions lying in the grass right by the track, even though they seem to be playing hide-and-seek.



We only see one because the second is completely hidden on the left. The guide tells us we’re lucky. According to his info, there are between 1 and 10 lions in Hlane—it’s not very precise

What can I say about this encounter other than it was an incredible moment. I had high expectations for leopards, my favorite feline. But lions—it’s magical.

There’s such power, such strength—it’s hard to describe. We were right next to them in a completely open vehicle, but they didn’t pay us any attention.

After a while, Maxwell radioed the second vehicle so they could enjoy the moment too.

The felines stayed until our male elephant got closer. They got spooked and bolted immediately. So, who *is* the king of the animals???











Those little white grasses in front of the lion are pretty, but they’re a nightmare! They’re taking over everything and slowly killing off the animals’ food sources. Hlane lost a lot of rhinos because of them.

Thanks, Maxwell!

In conclusion, you can't really compare Hlane to a park like Kruger. We loved our short stop in this park—it let us get up close to our first big cats. At no point did we feel like we were in a zoo, even though the park doesn’t offer the same vast expanses as Kruger, of course. Coming from St. Lucia, it was perfect—right in the middle. Going the other way, depending on what you see, you might not have the same experience. Either way, we’d happily come back. As mentioned in this travel journal, wildlife sightings are really a matter of luck—being in the right place at the right time.

As has already been mentioned in this travel journal, sightings are really a matter of luck—being there at the right time.

Hi there,

Basic principle (taught to me by a Namibian guide...:

"A safari, and Africa in general, are unpredictable!!")

:) ...

hey You got it all... a stop on the way to Kruger from St Lucia... Cheap Nice okay... the food isn't great, true... and the bus isn't ideal... We see rhinos... and there? Isn't that a lion?

I also ran into a group of annoying French people at Hlane. 😄

They didn’t want to do anything their guide suggested because they just wanted to go back to their hotel to rest and buy souvenirs...🤪

I really liked the bungalows. The vibe without electricity was amazing, I thought.

This sunrise drive at Hlane was amazing. I’ve always been convinced that the elephant is the true king of the savannah! And I love the vibe of the room with the kerosene lamp lighting.

While opinions on the reserve vary, you all seem pretty unanimous about the restaurant 😕 At least we know not to expect gourmet cuisine.

We booked the two self-catering cottages (Nyala and Liphiva), which are, apparently, near the waterhole. Were you staying there? I’m thinking it must be nice to have a little coffee on the terrace in the morning with a view of the waterhole.

I think we’ll do the rhino drive to maximize our chances of seeing them up close. Ahhh, I can’t wait, I can’t wait, I can’t wait!!!

Hi Alain,

And that’s also what makes it so charming 🙂

Same here! Two brothers who were between 8 and 10 years old according to the guide

Well, you’re definitely 😏!

Yeah, the bungalows at Hlane are really nice