Converting a heavy-duty bus/coach/truck into a motorhome (page 4 of 161)

Hey, if you've got any photos, send them to me on my account.

For your campervan, the best is the place in Carros at the left end... good luck with them.

Hi everyone,

I just posted an idea on the forum.

If you're planning a camper bus conversion, check out this discussion thread:

Collaborative construction of 3 converted buses (approval docs all set) ready by summer 2005 (in the RV/motorized travel section)

Rather than tackling it on your own, some folks who aren't natural DIYers or who might be intimidated by the paperwork could be really interested in this shared project.

PATRICK26

ankor :

it's very easy to derestrict the vehicle!!

hi, watch out - on certain buses, the speed limit is partly due to the "short" rear axle, which gives more torque but costs you top speed. those need an axle swap to derestrict them! (fit a "long" axle)

better to find a coach from the start! otherwise, on a bus there are definitely some huge bargains to find if you're not put off by the idea of topping out at 60-70 km/h with the same fuel consumption while driving slower than a coach... ciao.

Hi Patrick,

I just found your comment (see below) from April 2004 on another discussion.

I have a few questions: - Why did you jump from 15K€ to 40K€ for the budget 🏴‍☠️? - Why did you abandon the electrical generator solution and all that 220V equipment? - Do you confirm that a chassis is much better than a frame? (I'm asking because I think I understand that Saviem S45 or S53 are frames, and yet I see and hear lots of people using them to build motorhomes. Sputnik, do you have a different take on this versus Patrick's?)

In any case, thanks a lot guys for all this information you're sharing with everyone (and especially with me, since I can't stop thinking about it these days).

For the rest, see Patrick's old message below, which will surely interest you:

I'M BUILDING ONE. A FEW EXAMPLES OF CUSTOM BUILDS FOR FAMILY USE (MOST ARE SET UP MAINLY AS RECEPTION LOUNGES, SO VERY FEW SLEEPING AREAS)!

AFTER 8 MONTHS OF THINKING IT THROUGH, MY CHOICE FELL ON A 12.20M COACH WITH A CHASSIS (UNLIKE FRAMES) AND A SUSPENDED CENTRAL ENGINE, WHICH LETS ME OPEN A LARGE REAR DOOR FOR STORAGE OR TO CARRY A CAR.

CHOOSING A CHASSIS MAKES REGISTRATION EASIER; IN FACT, YOU CAN MORE EASILY ACCESS ATTACHMENT POINTS, AND SINCE THE BODY ISN'T NEEDED FOR STRUCTURAL RIGIDITY, IT CAN BE MODIFIED MORE FREELY (CLOSING OR DRILLING WINDOWS, POSITIONING SEATS, INSTALLING PARTITIONS, ETC).

FEW DECENT MODELS EXIST; YOU HAVE TO SKIP THE RENAULT PR, WHICH LOOKS LIKE NOTHING AND HAS THE COMFORT OF A LIVESTOCK TRUCK! VANHOOL AND DAF ARE THE MOST SERIOUS FOR THIS TYPE OF SETUP. THE ONE I FOUND HAS ONLY 300,000 KM (BARELY BROKEN IN), PNEUMATIC SUSPENSION, SEPARATE HEATING THAT CAN EASILY BE CONVERTED TO A BOILER, GEARED TRANSMISSION, TELMA, THE ABILITY TO BE TOWED, A CONTEMPORARY LOOK (IT DOESN'T LOOK LIKE KLEIN'S YELLOW BUS ON TV!), AND I'M PAYING LESS THAN €6,000 FOR IT!

AFTER THE CONVERSION, THE €15,000 BUDGET WON'T BE EXCEEDED. THE L-SHAPED LOUNGE AND SEATS COME FROM A KASSBOHER DOUBLE-DECKER BUS SITTING IN A SCRAPYARD (EASIER FOR SEATING REGISTRATION), THE REST OF THE COMPONENTS WILL BE CUSTOM-MADE. THE ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT WILL BE POWERED BY A QUIET GENERATOR AND 24/220V CONVERTERS. THE INSTALLATION IS CHEAPER (ALL APPLIANCES WILL BE 220V) AND HAS NO RISK OF POWER LOSS.

FINALLY, KNOW THAT NOTHING IS DONE WITHOUT PRECISE TECHNICAL PLANS; VASP REGISTRATION (SPECIALLY FITTED VEHICLE) IS ESSENTIAL TO BE ABLE TO DRIVE ALL THE TIME, BE EXEMPT FROM AXLE TAXES AND DISPENSE WITH TACHOGRAPH REQUIREMENTS! THE INSPECTION IS REDUCED TO 1 YEAR INSTEAD OF 6 MONTHS, GIVES YOU THE RIGHT TO USE ACTUAL WEIGHT (INSTEAD OF MTOW) FOR TONNAGE LIMITS, AND DOESN'T RESTRICT PARKING TO BUS-ONLY LOTS!

Hey everyone,

I just read all 64 messages 🏴‍☠️ and wow, I'm exhausted, I didn't even notice it's 5am, my head's killing me but seriously thank you everyone for this invaluable info!!!!! I'm going to launch the bus conversion project too and I was feeling pretty alone and worried especially about the regulations... thanks again everyone, I think without finding this site I would have made some big mistakes... I found a bus listing and I'd like to submit it to you and hear what you think. I'm new to this 🙂

Renault S 23 (8+1 seats) plans already filed, plus manufacturer authorization for any future modifications,

Downgraded from commercial use, inspection OK, registration OK

Overall mechanical condition impeccable:

05/15/01 engine changed by previous operator at 490,000 km, current mileage 498,000

11/23/01 all air bottles changed (10-year validity)

03/29/02 rear drums + pads changed, front drums re-bored + pads changed

04/03 batteries changed (was 4x6V, I switched to 2x12V)

inspection 03/08/04 defects noted without need for re-inspection: tachograph inspection mandatory except for exemptions (applies for private use) rear axle braking minor seal defect (a valve loses a bit of air during braking but has no safety impact) rear reflective plates to install (I have them but haven't installed them yet) front turn signals wrong color (sun faded them but there are orange bulbs available to fix this) air tank purge missing (actually they exist - they're remote valves but the inspector didn't see them - no impact)

bodywork in very good condition overall, the wooden roof rack grill got too old but all the elements are still in place (deflectors, steel straps, etc.) to replace it

To do: change all four tires. I bought two (used but new-looking) tires, just need to have them mounted and I can get matching ones

asking price as-is €6,000 open for negotiation

I think it's a bit pricey... but if everything's in good shape??? What do you think??? In Australia and New Zealand I saw tons of buses towing a car with an iron bar attached to the front of the car (front axle, if you will) to steer the wheels through turns. That's awesome!!! Do you have them in France/Europe? Do you use this system?? Is it legal here???

Thanks again, see you soon

Manu

I'm currently converting a DAF / HEULIEZ MB205 bus.

Cheaper and more spacious than a regular vehicle, the procedures (in France) aren't insurmountable for certification.

I'm ready to help anyone who wants to get into this type of project. Those who know, help those who want to....

Hi Patrick, I'm working on converting an S53, and I'm currently on the authorization part. Do I need authorization from the manufacturer's representative to be able to cut into the bodywork to install the required ventilation? Thanks for your reply Raphael

Hi everyone,

Just a quick reminder regarding the April 2004 post that melobenji cited...

Things have evolved since then.

The bus at €6,000 had significant mechanical problems, but it was white. The one I bought is orange and will need a paint job (€4,500 more to the budget!), and for the interior layout, the authorities ultimately refused the installation of the Kassbohrer stacked lounge, so the lounge will be custom-built (the cost overrun is substantial there too).

As for power, we actually modified the project because initially the bus was only supposed to be used for vacations, but it's now going to mainly serve my business professionally. Because of that, the all-220V system was abandoned in favor of a standard setup with slow-discharge gel batteries (250 A) and a 220V generator. Since the bus will be doing long-distance trips, this type of setup is better suited, but it's more expensive (roughly €3,000 more for the batteries and the regulator).

For gas, an LPG tank will be installed instead of the gas bottles originally planned (€1,200 cost overrun) because we'll often be in Nordic countries and gas bottles from Intermarché or TotalGaz won't be exchangeable on-site. So an LPG system with refills at gas stations.

A driver's door also had to be added (regulatory requirement). For that, the cost overrun is roughly €3,000.

Additional equipment will be installed compared to the original plan, for my employees' comfort (motorized satellite antenna, 17" flat screen, freezer and microwave for their meals at job sites, and so on).

That's why the project's budget has doubled. Between a vehicle for family vacations and a vehicle serving a work team that will live in it 60 to 80 days a year, there's quite a difference!

This bus could be built simply for €15,000 to €20,000. But I'm not sending my employees to the other side of Europe in a "cobbled-together" vehicle.

As for the S53 and PR, I stand by what I say. These aren't comfortable enough buses to turn into campervans, especially if people are sleeping in them while traveling. I also can't have a tarnished brand image for my business with 'old-fashioned' vehicles. Whoever, like me, used to travel 30 km a day in an S53 to get to school can back me up: always fogged windows, everyone on the bus knew it was a diesel, and the bumps were felt right up in our necks!

The only advantage of these models: the price and availability (though my bus cost me €3,500 after negotiating).

Regarding the difference between a body and a frame:

It all depends on what you want to do. If you don't touch the bodywork too much (just some trim), there's no problem with a body structure. You should know that on certain models (Ponticelli for example), the floor sheet serves as reinforcement for the body and is therefore considered part of the 'chassis.' Any drilling is prohibited, on the principle that the chassis cannot be modified without the manufacturer's approval.

For a bus on a frame, there's no problem because the body doesn't contribute to the overall rigidity. So you can drill doors wherever you want and even get the manufacturer's approval to cut or move a piece of the roll bar! If you want to make a garage at the rear for loading a car, that's no problem with a frame either. But with a body structure, it might bend.

There you have my thoughts on converting a bus into a campervan, but the nice thing around here is that everyone's entitled to their own vision.

In response to Raphael,

For ventilation panels, there are generally no problems. Just be careful not to cut a roll bar or any body reinforcement!

In response to Manu,

I think it's expensive too...

As for the towing system, I've seen it before, but unfortunately I don't have any info. However, if you find anything, please pass it along, because I'm interested too.

See you all, have a good evening

PATRICK26

Hi everyone,

I'm still hesitant about buying my bus... about the Kassbohrer S 140, here's + engine specs:

Daimler Benz OM 407 H combustion engine 4-stroke / 6 cylinder 11,417 ? Compression 18 Max power 177 kW Max torque 80.9 MDAM Power adm 31 hp

What can you tell me about it, knowing that I'm planning to do road travel... Thanks for your advice

Hi Patrick,

I disagree with almost everything you said. My job and knowledge—not to mention experience—show that it's actually quite easy to convert, get manufacturer approval, and so on, as long as you know 3 or 4 basics to start with.

1. Buy a bus with 3 doors—including the driver's door on the left—that's the one that causes issues, not the one on the right.

Don't plan to modify anything related to the brakes, original electrical system, or access points. For the interior, you can plan partition walls (not expensive, and it saves you from having to modify the exterior). For the windows, apply mirror film (not expensive and very effective if you use special office-grade film).

Water tanks can be bought from an accessory supplier (plenty of models that fit anywhere), including for example in the central aisle of the bus, which serves no purpose in a campervan.

Tell me about your projects and I'll help you. FREE ADVICE, but not a complete plan. But you'll save a lot of time and various costs.

Jean Claude

I got a 1997 Unic 7012 29-seater bus certified under VASP caravan regulations. No driver's door — that wasn't a problem. They approved it at 7.5 tonnes MTOW with 9 seats. But the braking system on this type of vehicle isn't straightforward — it's not pneumatic-assisted braking but a vacuum pump, which isn't easy to balance. I'm throwing in the towel this year, honestly. I don't have any more trips planned. It took me to India and now it's just sitting idle. Anyway, if anyone's interested in 24V motorhome equipment... jomazo@hotmail.com

Hey everyone,

I definitely can't find a hitch system, and anyway with a C license (only) you can't tow more than 750 kg. So I'm interested in hearing from people who've set up a car garage inside a bus. Isn't that too heavy for the rear axle??? I know people do it though.

hey manu47

I'm the owner of a 1976 Berliet PR14 bus, fitted out and registered as a VASP caravan with a garage to fit a car inside. The bus has the engine at the rear, and there's a hatch where the rear window would be (like a car trunk, not a lifting tailgate). I've got 2 ramps and an 8-ton winch to load the car.

I've already loaded my car inside (a Golf 2) — it fits and doesn't take long. As for driving, you don't really feel the extra weight. Besides, I loaded the car the day I bought the bus and drove 900 km (a good test for someone who'd never driven one before!).

So there you go — if you want more details on this, just let me know.

cheers thony

Hey everyone,

in response to JICEEL,

First of all, I'm glad a "professional" is joining us on this forum! But you must have missed some things: I never said the passenger door could be a problem! But the driver's door, that's a real problem if it's missing.

As for your info about not modifying the access, I confirm it's possible. In that case, you need the manufacturer's approval plus the mining authority's approval (procedures I've done and succeeded with). The modifications are still complex though: drilling a driver's door (with moving the electrical panel) drilling a 2.10 x 2.00 m door at the rear of the bus for garage access for a vehicle (with an assisted tilting ramp)

and for that, I strongly advise getting DRIRE approval on the plans before starting work.

as for double-glazing the windows, you can, it's true, apply a film to the windows! But look, I don't want to drive around in something ugly (and adhesive, I know about it, I've got 7,000 square meters in stock!). Applied on the outside, it has a limited lifespan, and risks shattering the window due to thermal bridging (temperature difference between the outer layer and the glass mass). Applied on the inside, I hope that over time (these films are guaranteed for 5 years) there won't be adhesion problems, because in that case we'd have to remove the lining to redo it. As for the price per square meter, I get it (with my professional rates) at 31.3 EUROS before tax per rolls of 1.5m x 10 ml!

good calculation, and without having done engineering studies, I prefer to be safe!

as for the water tanks, placing them in the central aisle looks nice, but when you know that most buses on chassis have a flat floor, and some have an aisle that's just high enough to move around standing up, where do you put them? I attach them to the chassis (with anti-freeze heaters), and that's why I use fuel tanks that I clean (plus, it costs almost nothing at the junkyard).

and your free advice is welcome, because for almost 6 months I've been doing nothing but this on this forum (people who've contacted me or even traveled to meet me will recognize themselves), there's not a day that goes by without me getting a call on my mobile or at my company for info. Not to mention the private messages I receive!

for info: I created this discussion topic which, by its nature, is about BUILDING a motorhome from a bus, so the objective is to end up with a vehicle that looks like a motorhome, both inside and outside.

to do it economically I also have solutions:

curtains on the windows with old blankets and hammocks stretched from one side to the other for sleeping! Butane gas stays, of course, optional, and for the shower, the example was given in the Tahiti Shower ad!

choose your destinations wisely!

as for furniture, I have it made to measure, because caravan furniture, wow, the cost (or the time for those who have it) to modify and hang it. Indeed, a caravan has flat sides, which is not the case with a bus. And apart from APOLLO 13, I've never seen anyone manage to fit a square thing in a round thing! (those who've seen the film will understand). And putting furniture in front of the windows, I'm not interested!

you've got to know what you want! For me, it's a motorhome, a real one! I don't want some DIY hack like a ramshackle conversion or livestock truck modification. I've seen cheap DIY motorhomes that I wouldn't sleep in for a night! (for info: 15,000 euros, that's almost 1,000 nights at a Formula 1 hotel. Your choice....)

in response to JOM,

since 1997, we've changed century, and regulations too, moving toward higher harmonization. The driver's door is a problem you wouldn't have encountered in 1997!

in response to MANU47,

we come back to the chassis vs. frame-based issue! With a bus on chassis, the only problem is weight on the rear axle; with a frame-based one, there's a serious risk of frame buckling!

the second problem is modifying the self-supporting body (Saviem just refused it for REMI—he'll recognize himself).

for a bus on chassis, any modification is possible.

good evening to everyone,

PATRICK26

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!"""Like gypsy-style or livestock trailer."""!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (Jicell)

Hi, I've been following this site for a few months now, and we find it really nice and very helpful. We bought a Saviem and all the site's information has been useful for our project. Right now we want to thank the creator and all the forum members. That said, it seems important to keep the site's friendly atmosphere by avoiding certain negative comments like this:

😠 """"You gotta know what you want! As for me, it's a real motorhome! I don't want some DIY thing like gypsy-style or livestock trailer. I've seen cheap DIY motorhomes I wouldn't sleep in for one night! (FYI: €15,000 is almost 1,000 nights at a Formula 1 hotel. Take your pick....)""""(jicell)

Everyone has their own possibilities, their projects, their ideals—and those need to be respected.

"""gypsy-style = livestock trailer"""(jiceel) ===> no!

People living in these gypsy-style conversions often do better than we do in their vehicles....

Have a good rest of the weekend, talk soon!

ps for jiceel: thanks anyway for your info

Hey,

For a vehicle's towing system it's called a 'Tow Bar'. It's generally fixed to the front axle of the vehicle being towed. You also need to make sure the lights on the towed vehicle light up like the towing vehicle, or add a light plate at the back. The steering of the vehicle being towed must be unlocked (you have to leave the keys) so that it follows you and its wheels turn in the corners. On the other hand, it's impossible to reverse.

Hello,

I'm surprised by the reservations about my build.

First, regarding access: there are plenty of coaches—not buses—that have a driver-side door, which avoids drilling, modifications, etc., especially hassles with inspections. The simpler it is, the more easily it passes through.

For the finishing touches: according to everyone, my camper is rather luxurious (no pile of junk with plastic bits all over the outside). I had a professional install reinforced mirror film on the interior (the same as what my company uses)—guaranteed for ten years with no technical issues. Appearance-wise, I can send you photos; it looks pretty nice from the outside. Done in three hours and looks great. For headroom, I have 1.81m with the central aisle closed off, giving me a flat floor.

I think buses aren't suited for this—a coach designed for the road is better. Now, filling a diesel tank with water is both unhygienic and technically nonsensical because water quickly oxidizes the interior and becomes unusable. Besides, food-grade plastic tanks come in over 400 sizes and fit anywhere. I see several other downsides to putting tanks under the chassis. First, ground clearance. Then there's the spray of stones in traffic that'll quickly damage tanks. I installed 11 tanks of different sizes inside under the bed, then in the circulation corridor and storage compartments. In total, 800 liters of water without wasting space—cascading tanks with a single pump at the bottom to save energy. Water descends by gravity gradually into the pump tank. I have the greywater tanks in storage with direct drainage underneath through the floor.

For the interior: I bought everything from Narbonne Accessoires—a large 165L fridge, range hood, quality furniture, washing machine, oven, and more. If you give me a private email I'll send you exterior and interior photos. You'll see. 350 hours of work only, and €25,000 all-in, including inspections, purchase, and registration.

Usage-wise: I've been traveling with it for a week now and done about 2,500 km. Full water and electricity autonomy for the week. Water for about 3 more days. Electricity without limit with solar panels and an extra alternator dedicated to the system.

Comfort on board is fantastic. Large 1.6m bed, spacious wardrobe, desk, big bathroom, and separate toilet.

I set out to study how useful this kind of equipment is on African roads.

After just 3 days in Morocco I can say a bus isn't ideal. So I'm going to study another solution—equally viable economically, technically more complicated for an amateur. I'll talk about it once I've made enough progress on that study.

A coach has too much inertia, an oversized engine, which causes heavy costs without any upside for comfort or safety.

On the other hand, by keeping the coach profile, you can use reserved parking spaces (bonus) and you're less hassled, especially at traffic lights by kids.

But fuel consumption is significant, fatigue too, and equipment breakdowns (I won't even talk about that).

I'll contribute to this forum with my professional experience (26 years in mechanical engineering and expertise) and as a traveler—2 years in different vehicles on land and sea.

My point isn't meant to be controversial. I easily built a comfortable vehicle with just a drill, jigsaw, circular saw, and electric planers. It's doable by almost anyone in max 6 months.

The other vehicle I'm working on will have an insulated aluminum structure. I think it could be quite affordable but not technically within everyone's reach.

We'll see. For the one I'm using, I have photos available.

Cheers,

Jean-Claude

Hello Jean-Claude.

No misunderstanding, just different perspectives...

In our case, the most important points were the need for a chassis to pull heavy loads and a powerful engine. Few buses or vans meet this need. Our choice, dictated by these constraints, led us to get a vehicle licensed as a bus but that met our requirements.

As for the floor, I stand by what I said: if there's a sunken aisle, it's often to maintain the 1.85m of headroom needed for comfort. If we can fill it in while keeping that height, why not...

For the tank, a bit more explanation. It's wrong to say the tank will be damaged by water. Everyone knows that in all diesel tanks there's water at the bottom due to condensation in the tank (that's why there's a settling tank before the pump), so no risk of rust or corrosion—a tank is designed for that! So there's no risk of water oxidizing faster than in polyethylene. As for positioning, all buses and vans have fuel tanks under the chassis with no problems for ground clearance or damage from rocks! And for improper use for consumption, I've already explained that there are approved rinsing products to change the purpose of a diesel tank (supplier address earlier in the forum). The remaining issue is the cost compared to all your polyethylene tanks—I've got a mountain of used diesel tanks in a scrapyard!

As for the price of your bus, we agree! €25,000 to which you need to add 350 hours of work at an average cost of €35, and the total comes to around €40,000!

Me, I've got a business to run, employees I'm very busy with, so I count the labor!

For us, the motorhome is on a DAF chassis with 290 hp turbodiesel that equipped many trucks that traveled through the Middle East. Having a chassis ensures good rigidity on sunken tracks—the length remains an issue...

And as for the windows, it's above all a choice! Irisbus in sheet metal after coming off the assembly line at the coachbuilder where our windows will be sealed... okay, I'll give you the secret to get it perfect: you need to weld the panels under tension at three tons with a calibrated jack. I saw FR1s at the coachbuilder with sheet metal work in progress, and it's perfect!

And as for the paint, since our bus is orange, it turns out to be necessary.

There's my way of seeing things... but France remains a free country, and as Coluche's saying goes:

When you see what you see, when you hear what you hear, you're right to think what you think...

I'm coming back to the choice of a bus (mentioned by several people).

I've got nothing against the PR14 or S45, S53, and S65...

I'm just saying that just because they're everywhere doesn't mean they're a good base for a motorhome. There are plenty of other models that work much better—you need to take the time to make the right choice...

Have a good day, everyone

PATRICK26

Hi Patrick,

Yesterday I forgot to talk about gas. When it comes to setting up the motorhome, you first need to distinguish the planned destination and duration of use.

Your data obviously isn't the same as mine, which as a competent professional shouldn't be expected to make a business profitable.

So for the technical side only: gas. For Africa, it seems absurd to me to plan a GPL gas tank installation. Sure, it's bulkier and gives more range, but a standard 13kg gas bottle gives about 6 months of autonomy (with 2, you see). They cost almost nothing in Africa and you find them everywhere. To refill a tank, plus the expensive installation, you'll run into supply problems everywhere except Europe.

Also, it's much easier to build a 2-bottle gas box and install it yourself. Negligible cost and guaranteed result. For autonomy, I've been traveling for 2 years with various setups and I've seen it. A 13kg bottle costs around €1 everywhere in the world except France (€22).

Regarding recycled tanks, I completely disagree with your statements. I had many disputes where I intervened professionally for tanks that had water in them. To imagine that humidity moisture from a fuel tank and filling it with water permanently will have the same consequences is technically serious. Then a polyethylene tank costs on average €30. I don't think that justifies the risks. But you do what you want. Just be careful if it's for clients because there's a procedure called "mise en cause de la RC" (it was my main job for years) that can have serious consequences for your business.

As for the bus or coach model, hard to say. For my part, with a Setra 211, I had plenty of room to fit everything, including a generator, pressure washer, ladder, bikes, spare parts, and more, to live very comfortably inside. If you want photos, you can get an idea.

My conversion isn't perfect. It was simply designed by a professional with experience in travel and technical work, and designed while traveling. So every day in the field I noticed specific points that I noted or modified on my plans.

As for luxury features in Africa, and starting with Morocco, that's a serious mistake. We're in countries with low purchasing power, and every tourist is a sitting duck. Already at the border with customs you'll have problems. Just one example: at Ceuta 5 days ago I spent 5 hours negotiating the taxation of my living equipment (generator especially). The basic thinking was: you have a big motorhome so you're rich. I deliberately avoided repainting the outside to be as inconspicuous as possible. It's not ugly but goes almost unnoticed. Arriving with a super limousine in Africa exposes you to everything, starting with theft.

Plus, the tracks, roads, and so on are very hard on the equipment and it's likely you'll need to review the mounting of the partitions, which are flexible, and other equipment. Interior comfort is good, luxury is a gadget.

And then with the dollar exchange rate, for luxury, you just need to go to www.busforsale.com to find beautiful American motorhomes directly for $40,000 + $2,000 for transport - there are plenty available immediately. With the exchange rate, it's very advantageous.

If you're designing motorhomes for Africa, I think you need to seriously reconsider the subject, especially regarding the actual needs. I can help you. But don't send people, even for €40,000, to Africa alone with something like you're describing. They're the ones who'll suffer the consequences.

Cheers,

Jean-Claude

I'm attaching an external photo of the motorhome; others if you want

Hey there! We're Magalie and Franck — we're new to this site and total beginners at truck conversions. We picked up a Mercedes 308D just a few days ago and it needs to be completely overhauled!!! We've got to insulate it, put in a bed, buy a small fridge, and set up a little kitchen (sink if possible, gas cooktop...). If you've got any tips on all that... We were told to check out junkyards to find insulation materials like polystyrene and other stuff. Do you know any good junkyards or scrap yards? Just so you know, we're based in Paris. And I haven't mentioned the main thing — we're leaving in March 2005 for 6 months: Spain, Portugal, North Africa (Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia, Libya), Greece, Turkey, and Eastern Europe. That's already quite a lot... and it's going to be quite the hassle converting this truck we'll be living in for 6 months!! Can you help us?...............Thanks so much in advance.

HELLO JEAN CLAUDE,

you reference Africa a lot....

but many points become inaccurate for other regions of the globe!

for gas, for example, it's easier to refill with LPG on the American continent (north and south) than to find a gas bottle compatible with the regulators and burner components of European cooking appliances. same in Asia and Northern Europe. as for volume, it's not bulkier: the tank holds 26 kg of gas... and nothing prevents you from having a backup gas bottle when a trip is planned for Africa.

for the tanks you need to know the intended use of the water. if it's meant to be drunk, even a polyethylene tank is not recommended (the biggest motorhome brands disclaim responsibility for this use). if it's for toilet use, sanitation system supply, etc., there's no problem. and for the wastewater tank, we don't even mention it...

for equipment taxation, we won't have your problems. in fact, this problem only exists for non-fixed equipment, which may be subject to customs duty independent of the vehicle. we chose fixed equipment to avoid this concern (the generator, for example, is connected to the diesel tank and cannot operate detached from the vehicle, as it's designed for this use only).

for the cost of currency exchange with the dollar, I'm like everyone else aware of it. the problem isn't the cost, but the impossibility of homologating most of these vehicles. in fact, none of them carry the NF mark, or TÜV, or E2, or E4 for glazing and headlights, pneumatic braking systems on heavy vehicles often don't have separate secondary braking, video and radio equipment often isn't compatible in Europe, the electrical system is specific too, etc... all these points require individual homologation, after obtaining a whole bunch of exemptions.

most owners of this type of vehicle are forced to drive with "garage" plates (for those who are mechanics), for the others good luck. if it were so simple, there would be a WINNEBAGO, or ITASCA, etc. distributor in France!

and there isn't one!

I've had several American cars (Chevrolet Monza, Pontiac Firebird Spirit, ...) and I know all too well the homologation problems of US vehicles, to attempt the adventure with this type of solution.

it's not just about money...

the vehicle we're preparing is not specifically designed for Africa, and our reference points in terms of equipment are close to WINNEBAGO, CONCORDE, or NIESSMAN. these brands have proven themselves on all continents, and with our means, we want to strive towards them.

looking forward to communicating with you,

PATRICK26