Thailand Travel Journal: From Chiang Mai to Bangkok, We Didn’t Buddha Our Fun (page 4 of 11)

Hello,

From the very first account, we told ourselves we’d make the most faithful summary possible of what really happened. There’s a practical side to it—we don’t need to invent or imagine stories that didn’t actually occur. Besides, it wouldn’t be honest.

Yes, that’s for sure, and it’s not necessarily interesting for you to write. 🤪

The beauty of anecdotes is that in a similar situation, they can give readers ideas. And sometimes, it’s good to know what to expect.

When I think back to your return to the hotel in the storm... I’ll admit I’m in no hurry to experience that situation myself, which just goes to show—if it were even necessary—how kind Thais are. 🙂

On the other hand, paying 10 baht for a few bananas? I’ve never gotten such a good price. The best deal I ever got on fruit was 20 baht for a whole pineapple, sold directly by the producer.

We can’t include everything: some parts are too private, others just aren’t that interesting.

Too bad—my eyes were already gleefully anticipating reading about those steamy erotic moments shared with Françoise... 😄 😄 😄

Once you’re proud of certain great moments or beautiful photos, you might as well include the less glorious stories that are part of the whole.

I write about the little anecdotes that don’t exactly paint me in a flattering light, whether they’re glorious or not. They’re often funny, or at least I try to make them funny—you’ve got to be able to laugh at yourself. Your story about returning to the hotel in the storm is a joy to read; it’s funny not because of you, but just because the story itself is amusing.

People can laugh at us or think we’re idiots....

Personally, I try not to judge people. The anecdote is either funny or instructive, and that’s just fine.

I also think some photos have something special—they capture something of Françoise and something of Thailand. So Jojoone is doubly happy!!

Isn’t that the point of life? To be happy? (As long as it’s not at others’ expense.)

You went, you had fun on the trip, and you came back happy—what more could you ask for? 🙂

Since you contribute so often and we’re now at Kamphaeng Phet, there’s no way I’m continuing this story without dedicating a video to you—shot at random, of course.

At random? Well, maybe not entirely...

https://youtu.be/o2wlonyHUjo

Thanks! 🙂

It's funny, I'd never heard of Kampagne Phet before. I passed through that province by minibus when I went from Sukhothai to Nakhon Sawan. But I don’t know much about it—basically nothing. I’ll look into this place.

As for the video, I love the old man with the gloves grilling... I don’t know what. 😉

We hired the hotel’s minivan for a solid half-day. It quickly became clear that our driver wasn’t exactly skilled or resourceful. Sometimes, you just have to roll with it. To be fair, we do ask to see places that are hard to find or not well-known to locals.

That’s how we ended up at a temple not on our list, about ten kilometers south of Kamphaeng Phet. Many temples were built on the same sites where older ones stood during the Sukhothai Kingdom era. This one features a building with glass windows all around, protecting eight beautiful stone Buddhas and a few scattered fragments of others that didn’t survive to this day.







About 18 kilometers south of Kamphaeng Phet, near the river, a few remnants of the ancient city of Muang Trai Trueng still stand, right next to Wat Wang Phra That. Apart from the remains of the small town’s wall, the main attraction is a tall, elegant stupa alongside its majestic white Buddha. For us, it was a hidden gem in the countryside.





Coincidentally, a group of nine monks was there just as we arrived, lining up for local photographers in front of the monument. Another perfect opportunity for Françoise to snap away with such a great subject.





The small Wat Wang wasn’t to be outdone, bursting with color in the sunlight. Two pink elephants greet visitors. Inside, there are very old Buddhas and numerous carvings.









In the countryside, many traces of ancient settlements remain. Lots of walls, chedis, and small towers are visible near sugarcane fields. Sugarcane and bananas are the region’s specialties.

We made a quick stop at Wat Phra Borommathat Chediyaram, but the temple was closed for a monks’ prayer session. The large golden Burmese-style chedi is impressive, but we’d seen so many last year...



Our driver, trying to be helpful, took us to a clean but very limited-menu restaurant. For the first and only time, we tried the spicy soup that many Thais love—floating with fish surimi and those chemical meatballs you often see on sidewalks or markets. If it’s nearly impossible to eat badly in Thailand, this time we managed it perfectly!

In the afternoon, we visited Wat Sawang Arom, about 5 km northwest of Kamphaeng Phet. Nothing extraordinary except for its Buddha from the Chieng Saen period, predating Sukhothai. However, something quite surprising happened there. A man approached us, speaking Thai, and led us around the temple alleys, giving us all sorts of explanations. We tried to show him we only understood a few words, but he was clearly set on his mission and wouldn’t let up. Eventually, we played along, throwing in a few well-placed “ahs.” It made for a surreal moment, and in the end, the man left very satisfied. On our side, well played—we didn’t lose face...

We also stopped by Chedi Klang Thung (late 14th to early 15th century), another remnant of past magnificence.



For our last visit to the night market, we arrived during the day. This gave us time to sit and watch people passing by. An elderly woman, likely without resources, sat with her bowl at the market entrance from the parking lot. No matter the age or social status of those passing by, everyone left a few coins or a small bill. It seemed like a habit—if not out of charity, then at least to secure some good karma.

If it's nearly an achievement to eat badly in Thailand, this time we managed it perfectly!

That *is* rare...

Still, something pretty surprising happened. A man approached us speaking Thai and led us through the temple alleys, giving us all sorts of explanations. We tried to show him we only understood a few words, but he was clearly set on his spiel and wouldn’t let up. Eventually, we just played along, throwing in a few well-timed "ahs." It made for a surreal moment, and in the end, the guy left very satisfied. Our side? Well played—we didn’t lose face...



Amazing Thailand!

An elderly woman, likely without resources, sat with her bowl at the market entrance from the parking lot. No matter the age or social status of those passing by, everyone left a few coins or a small bill. It seemed like a habit—if not out of charity, then at least to secure some good karma.

Interesting question (at least for me). Do Thais understand the meaning of charity, or are they just trying to secure good karma? I couldn’t say...

The staff at Chakungrao Hotel still take great care of their guests: the minivan takes us to the bus station for free. Once there, the ticket counter employee tries to explain something to us, but there’s no one around to translate at that moment, and he gives up. We’ll find out after four hours on the road that the bus only passes near our destination, Singburi.

It’s not a big deal in itself to end up at a tiny stop right on the highway, but with our phone issues and only one moto taxi available, we could’ve been stuck there for a while. Fate had other plans, though—a charming fifty-something woman, perfectly put-together and fragrant, strikes up a conversation with Françoise and mentions she’s waiting for someone. She tells us the hotel we’re heading to is near her destination, and we can ride with her. The vehicle that arrives is a cross between a songthaew and a tuk-tuk. No matter— the driver speeds along, and we reach our destination quickly.

We’ve already shared Lampang’s most beautiful hotel from our Thailand travels, and now it’s time to introduce you to the most pleasant hotel owner we’ve ever met. Philippe is Swiss and built Villa Sumali. This property includes the family home, his daughter’s house, buildings for guests, and a lovely pool. The concept, which might’ve confused some visitors, is a hotel-guesthouse hybrid. You have breakfast on the owner’s terrace and dine in their stunning dining room. Actually, it’s pretty flexible. You can spend a little time with the family or keep to yourself like in any other hotel.

As we entered the property, we saw Philippe on his mini-tractor mowing the lawn. Our bags had barely touched the ground before he was there, welcoming us. Instantly, we felt something positive. Some things are hard to put into words, but he immediately put us at ease—simple, genuine, and radiating serenity.

Villa Sumali is located in Jaksi, several kilometers from Singburi. During our search, there weren’t many options. It was the only hotel in the area with a pool and looked promising. Turns out, we lucked out here too—the hotel is right next to a historic site and a fascinating temple. From what we’ve seen, Singburi itself doesn’t have much to offer.

We have the option of a ground-floor room. The beds are just as comfortable as at Baan Suchadaa in Lampang, with 5-star hotel-quality mattresses... Philippe’s daughter does the cooking, and she’s really talented. We usually prefer eating outside the hotel, but not this time.

When we share our plans for the next day, Philippe explains that finding a driver isn’t easy and offers to take us himself. When we cautiously ask about the cost, he casually replies there isn’t one—he’ll just come along. Of course, we can’t believe our ears. Having someone monopolize their 4x4 for half a day without charging us? That’s a first!

https://youtu.be/5fe3WjyVKvc

There’s a new filmmaker on VoyageForum: we’re dedicating this short film to them

https://youtu.be/bQNUMZhklqw

Bobebebus.... thanks. 😉

Photos or videos, both have their strengths. I take photos, but since I’m not very good at it, I avoid posting or sharing them.

Videos capture movement, though it’s harder to make a good video than a good photo.

I really appreciate that you post videos. Little moments with their own unique atmosphere—always great to watch.

A fellow countryman lost in the middle of nowhere with his hotel-guesthouse... always good to know.

The next morning, Philippe’s daughter opened the little gate at the back of the property for us. We set off down the small road that runs alongside the canal—it’s a pleasant but short walk.





It’s short because we quickly arrive at Wat Phra Non Chakkrasi (or Wat Phra Non Chaksi). It’s a third-class royal temple, and at first glance, it seems quite large. This temple is famous for its reclining Buddha, which measures between 46 and 48 meters long, depending on the source. But for us, it was everything else that blew us away. This temple is simply incredible and belongs in the temple-museum category.

Right from the start, there’s a large open hall with an intricately carved old tree trunk and a three-meter-tall monk statue on its pedestal.



Inside a courtyard, several Buddhas covered in gold leaf stand side by side, along with a large number of finely carved tree trunks, pillars, and canoes, plus an assortment of stunning bonsai trees.







Before entering the temple, you pass by six wax monks that look incredibly lifelike—though much larger than the life-sized replicas you usually see in other Thai temples.



Inside the temple, the giant reclining Buddha takes up the entire center, surrounded by thick pillars that make visibility tricky. But all around it, on all four sides, it’s a full-on festival of antiques and artworks. Beyond the sculptures and century-old statues, there’s a large painting featuring—if you look closely—the late king, along with numerous display cases filled with precious objects. We saw marvels in bronze and ivory, as well as several large jade Buddhas, each dressed differently. At the back of the hall, dozens of Buddhas and statuettes in every style and material imaginable, each more beautiful than the last. On the other side, there are fabulous antique carved furniture pieces inlaid with mother-of-pearl and adorned with many ancient objects. Then comes an incredible collection of pots and vases in various shapes, all very old—including several Chinese pieces from the Ming period. Some are even made of silver. There are simply hundreds of them. More than two meters up, on metal stands, several carved seats—thrones, really—are displayed. Not only are they stunning, but the Buddhas perched on them are just as impressive.













This is exactly the kind of temple we love. Completely unknown to the general public, almost no one around early in the morning, and a visit that keeps surprising us at every turn. The sheer concentration of fantastic creations here could easily fill an entire day.

We’re caught off guard because we’d planned a quicker visit, and our host is probably already waiting for us. We didn’t get to explore the entire complex. Given how rich it is, we promise ourselves we’ll come back in the next few years—it won’t be a waste of time.

Just as we’re about to leave the temple, our day is darkened by the sight of an old dog making heartbreaking sounds. He’s lying down, occasionally trying to get up, but there’s no strength left in his hind legs. We can tell this poor animal is nearing the end of its life. In Buddhist culture, karma is left to run its course, and unfortunately, animals in agony aren’t relieved—not at the temple, at least, not by the monks. It’s awful.

Hi Michel,

This is just a small sample of the treasures this temple has to offer. We weren’t going to post fifty photos. And those who are interested will make the trip to enjoy it fully. To think we didn’t even see the exterior—but we’ll fix that. As for guides, whole sections of the country are almost completely absent from them. Maybe that’s for the best, in a way. We would’ve just appreciated more feedback to confirm that people have discovered places thanks to our stories. That *was* really the case in 2013 with the langurs, and our satisfaction was immense. Every year, we’re on the verge of giving up. No matter what we do, there’s always that lingering thought of the people who read, who benefit, and yet never engage with the story—or, afterward, don’t even contribute a single tiny addition of their own. You end up feeling like some kind of voluntary sucker...

Anyway, if you enjoyed this last quarter of the day, I guarantee you’ll have plenty of fun in the coming days.

Madame also appreciates your photographs, by the way.

I just read your posts:

We would have just appreciated more feedback to confirm that people discovered places thanks to our stories. That really was the case in 2013 with the langurs, and our satisfaction was immense. Every year, we’re on the verge of giving up. No matter what we do, there’s always that lingering thought of those who read, who benefit, and yet don’t engage with the story—or later, don’t contribute even a tiny bit in return. You end up feeling like a volunteer who’s being taken advantage of...

I still have a lot to learn, and there are a few things I already know. I’d like to remind you—or share with you—something that’s oh-so-true, something I’ve experienced for far too many years: "A great way to be disappointed is to have expectations."

Writing a travel journal in hopes of getting feedback is, in my opinion, a reason that could lead to disappointment if the feedback isn’t what you expected.

So why write a travel journal, you ask? Everyone has their own reasons—they can vary from person to person. For me, writing a travel journal helps me remember the good (and not-so-good) moments. It lets me close the book on my trip and move on to the next thing.

It’s up to you to find your own reason for writing your journal and sharing your photos 🙂

I checked the stats on your journal: In 18 days, your journal has been viewed 5,277 times, 15 people have contributed, and 72 replies have been posted. That’s more than respectable—better than mine, actually 😉

Personally, I love reading your travel journal because you often visit places I don’t know about. Sometimes, I’ve never even heard of them (which always surprises me a little). Also, I think some of your photos are particularly well done, at least in my opinion. Even if I don’t always leave a comment, rest assured that I enjoy reading your posts.

I hope you find a "good" reason to keep publishing your travel journals and that you continue to enjoy it. No matter what people do with them... 🙂

Have a great rest of your Sunday 😎

Hello,

I’m revisiting your kind message—which disappeared in the meantime—to say I figured you’d like it, because over time, you start to pick up on what certain people prefer. At heart, there aren’t that many of us who truly appreciate this kind of place, atmosphere, aesthetic, and the spiritual weight that comes with it. By spiritual, I mean the way Thais experience their visits to their wats—it’s something we love even if we can’t quite explain it in a few lines. When you’re there, you always worry about disturbing people who are praying, and that’s often when they give you the warmest smile. Sometimes you hesitate to go further, and it’s *them* who wave you in. Absolutely amazing.

It’s too bad these kinds of surprises don’t happen more often during a trip. One experience like that is worth several less memorable ones. Still, it’s great that Thailand has so many hidden gems like this. For my part, I’ve spotted a few more I’m itching to see in person. For other sites, maybe luck will give us a little nudge. At the same time, not so fast—*the more you’ve seen, the less there is left to see.* I’m guessing you’ll make the jump to Jaksi one day. Get ready to keep that camera rolling for a while and enjoy yourself as much as we did.

As for the pool in Lampang, I see both sides of the conflicting arguments, and they both crossed my mind when the owner explained it to me. But in that moment, as he said it so calmly and confidently, what could I possibly say? After all, it’s *his* money that made this place possible—he used it to create this little wonder. Guests paying around 100 € a night come for peace and privacy. It’s hard to imagine letting things slide like they do elsewhere. Plus, his own home is on the property, so it’s *his* space. He did add that he doesn’t always say no outright but explains the rules of the game when needed.

What’s next? Like you said… well, even the last few days aren’t written yet, so I’ll keep things going at my own serial-paced rhythm. But knowing you a little, there are a few paragraphs coming that should pique your interest… 😉

We head back along the same little path, serenaded by birds, startling a squirrel that sprints ahead of us for a stretch.

Philippe and his 4x4 are indeed ready, and we set off to take a look at the Heroes of Bang Rachan monument. Just like the famous Gallic village in Asterix standing up to the Romans, a village here held its ground against the Burmese invaders during the Ayutthaya period. The heroism of these Thais and their long resistance before being decimated by far more numerous enemies are a key part of the country’s history and national pride. A beautiful memorial has been erected on the site of the battles, in the middle of a large esplanade with a park surrounding it.



In the park, the Thais have placed other statues of the fighters, each in front of a representation of the house they occupied at the time.



There’s a free museum right next door, which turned out to be more interesting than we expected. We first discover an impressive model of the landscape from back then, with the river and its boats, wooden houses on the riverbank, forests, and temples. Large illustrated panels depict battle scenes, and there’s the inevitable life-sized statue of a warrior brandishing his axe, seated on his battle buffalo. Throughout the exhibit, there are reconstructions, short films on TVs, and a collection of artifacts found during excavations.

Ten kilometers south of Singburi, in the village of Tha Chang, we visit Wat Pikun Thong. You can’t miss its 42-meter-tall and 23-meter-wide Buddha.







It’s hard not to smile as you walk around the statue. On the lawn, it’s Noah’s Ark with a rabbit next to tigers, a flock of sheep with their shepherds, and a little couple lying down for a nap.



Under the Buddha, you’ll notice relief panels depicting heavenly bliss on one side and the horrors awaiting sinners in hell on the other. It’s absolutely gory. A chapel has been built in honor of the monk Luang Pho Phae, who once led this temple. Besides the imposing golden statue of the holy man, there are also chronological photos showing different stages of his life. He was a very cute little monk and ended up as an old monk with an incredibly kind face.



Just before heading back, we take a closer look at Wat Na Prathat, visible from the back of Villa Sumali’s property. It’s a Khmer sanctuary, featuring a tower alongside pottery kilns, restored during the Ayutthaya period. It’s remained in pretty good condition, with some figures still clearly visible. We clearly disturb the peace of a pack of dogs—some of them scatter before we even have a chance to strike up a conversation.





In the afternoon, Françoise takes advantage of a masseuse visiting the hotel family to get her own one-hour session. Excluding the tip, a full-hour massage costs 200 baht. And you can tell this woman knew her stuff. Even though we’re familiar with the rates and expect something like this, it’s still a bit of a shock every time. A steal here, a rip-off back home.

Dinner finally gives us the chance to try snakehead fish—smoked on the grill—and its four sauces. An interesting experience and a tasty dish, even if the value for money isn’t the best we’ve found. No doubt about it, this fish looks nasty.

We had several interesting discussions with Philippe, all in a very friendly atmosphere. This year, we heard loads of anecdotes and significantly expanded our knowledge about Thais, their customs, and how their society works. Once again, it turns out that expats everywhere share the same take on all the topics we covered.

We’re honored, grateful, and... amazed that Philippe still generously shows us around today. This time, his wife joined us because she’s from the area and knows the best routes.

There are many famous temples between Singburi and Ang Thong. There’s an inflation of temples housing large or very large Buddha statues. Wat Chaiyo Worawihan (16 km to the south) is one of them. This second-class royal temple houses a beautiful golden Buddha nearly 23 meters tall and 16 meters wide under its viharn. Needless to say, it’s majestic. It’s amusing to see the circular hollow in the roof to accommodate the tip.









The ubosot right across is very pretty, with mural paintings like those found in the most meticulously maintained temples, and even still-life trompe-l'œil on the doors.





In the courtyard, we came across a skeleton dressed in military gear, complete with sunglasses and a hat, doing the wai.

The end of the temple opens directly onto the river. That’s where we found another chapel near a large gong. There’s also an imposing statue of the monk who was behind the evolution of this temple, which was once just a small rural wat.



About 12 km southwest, we didn’t visit all of Wat Khun Inthapramun. Our interest was in Thailand’s largest and longest reclining Buddha statue. Legend has it that Mr. Inthapramun was a revenue manager for the King of Sukhothai. He allegedly embezzled funds either to build this statue and take credit for it or to expand it beyond what was planned. The poor man was, of course, executed. When a skeleton was discovered in 1998 in these parts, face down with hands and feet tied, some thought it was probably him. He achieved immortality this way, as the temple now bears his name.

This Buddha is well taken care of: it took a truckload of fabric to dress him. Today, someone gave him a beautiful lotus flower bouquet, and his huge elbow is all gilded.



We didn’t know that a small temple nearby had been restored. Its entrance blends with a tree that grew there to embrace it. Inside, a few statues and a small collection of... zebras (!).





Near Ang Thong, in the Sala Daeng district, there’s a spot that’s not so easy to find. It’s a monastery abandoned over a century ago due to the strong personalities of the spirits inhabiting the place. The name Wat Sang Kratai was initially supposed to mean Sam Kratay: three rabbits. Or maybe I’m starting to understand Thai and I’m talking nonsense.

The first sight is striking. Several trees have taken over the building, reinforcing its structure and framework. It’s just as clear from the inside. Each of the three open-air rooms has its own representations to honor. Behind the monastery, next to the fountains, a few large terracotta rabbits stand with their 40-centimeter ears upright. Places like this delight us.









A few kilometers away, in the Wiset Chai Chan district, a monk was on a forest retreat in the early 1980s when he rediscovered the ruins of Wat Muang. His project from then on was to give it new life. In 1990, over 18 years, construction began not only on the temple but also on one of the ten largest statues in the world. The seated Buddha at Wat Muang is indeed Thailand’s largest statue. This great golden Buddha, which seems to hint at a smile, is 63 meters wide and 92 meters tall.





Let’s clarify that it’s not just a temple at this location but a whole park. We knew that under the Buddha, life-sized scenes (and sometimes even larger) of the torments of hell were displayed. However, we had no idea it covered such a large area. Clearly, more than one little Thai must have been scared by all these atrocities. There are some forms of torture we couldn’t have imagined. Battle scenes and Buddhist-themed tableaux also have their place.



We took advantage of a small stall to stock up on some Thai medicine jars. There’s not just the famous Tiger Balm but many others, in different colors, for all sorts of uses. The one with the dark green product is very effective for quickly relieving pain.

It was getting late, and we couldn’t explore the space further or visit the Chinese temple, so we’ll have to come back. Indeed, Philippe’s wife has been struggling to hide her suffering for a while now. She’s hungry, really hungry. If you want to upset a Thai, just stop them from eating when they’re hungry.

While the couple discussed where to go and playfully argued over the best route, we ended up in a place we obviously wouldn’t have found on our own. The large restaurant has several tables right by large ponds used for fishing contests. It’s very pleasant, and we’re the only customers. We did as the Thais do: everyone orders their own dish, and we all taste everything.

After nightfall, Pam (Philippe’s daughter) and her boyfriend showed us the Singburi market. Even though it’s smaller than on weekends, it’s still quite large, with all sorts of shops. It’s more organized than what we’re used to. The market forms a square with clean central aisles, and each vendor’s space is clearly defined. It reminds us a bit of some of our local markets from the 70s. In this part of the country, pineapples are twice as expensive as in the north, but they’re still delicious—and of course, that wasn’t a complaint...

Good evening,

Wat Chaiyo Worawihan (16 km to the south) is one of those. This second-class royal temple houses a stunning golden Buddha nearly 23 meters tall and 16 meters wide beneath its viharn. Needless to say, it's majestic. It's amusing to note the circular hollow in the roof so the tip can fit inside.

The second photo has the advantage of putting the first one into proper perspective. You mentioned the dimensions, but I find it easier to understand with a photo—in this case, two.

The places where roots have taken over have a special charm. You can really see the work of time and what it took to reach such a state.

Thanks for this travel journal—it's a pleasure to follow.

Hello, Thank you so much for your entire travel journal. I really enjoy reading your posts and looking at the photos. I love your take on the daily and spiritual life of Thai people. I’ve been to Thailand once and really enjoyed visiting the temples. Your stories let me relive my time in Thailand. Thank you both! Lise from Montreal

Good evening,

After a while, how should we even thank you? By saying that dunces understand better with pictures than explanations!! 😛 It just so happens that what you said, I had just told Françoise two hours earlier... Yes, there are photos I’m discovering or rediscovering right now. Over the years, images and notes become an increasingly important support for our memory 🤪

I think you’re now grasping what this year has meant for us. We’d love for it to always be like this, but we can always hope...

hi there I'm planning a trip to Thailand in January, and after reading your amazing story, I can't wait to be there!

thanks again kenavo

Hi Lise!

There’s undeniably something that clicked. That first trip ten years ago set things in motion (albeit with a delay). Not everyone gets to discover this country without falling in love with it. We had no idea it would one day lead to this on such a forum. It started as a kind of tribute to those who give to others, a sign of gratitude.

Our feelings about it are genuine—it’s not some huge effort toward the cultural or spiritual. We try to offer a personal take on what’s already well-known and put into perspective some of what’s less familiar. It might make a few people’s stays easier or more enjoyable, but it’s hard to say to what extent.

Say, think about diving into planning your next trip, because when it comes to temples, the stock just keeps growing every year, and you’ll run out of days to fit them all in! Thanks so much for your message.

And hello to our Francophone friends outside France. Whether it’s in the story or even more so during our stays, their spontaneous and friendly sides really stand out. There you go—so we don’t one day regret not having said it!