Three weeks in Japan with the family (page 4 of 9)

Back down, we pick up number two who waited in the cool air-conditioned room, then the cable car which doesn’t feel as hot anymore).

No time to visit the sanctuary after all. Oh well! We rush to get our luggage and head to the ferry. At the station, we take advantage of the few minutes of waiting to buy some snacks. I give in to these balls cooked in molds, a bit like waffles. They’re actually a local specialty, takoyaki—octopus-filled dough balls. The octopus is chewy.

Local train, transfer in Osaka, Shinkansen, stop in Himeji, searching for lockers. Phew, we find three large ones to leave our bags without any problem. And off we go to Himeji Castle, the White Heron Castle, with a quick stop to grab more snacks for lunch, and here we are.

Himeji Castle is the archetype of a Japanese castle: moats, a labyrinthine entrance, curved walls for stability, a multi-story keep, curved roofs, a massive wooden structure, multiple traps, arrow slits, machicolations, and ambush rooms. It’s often used for historical fiction filming.



No line! Great! (I had checked the castle’s website beforehand to make sure it wasn’t a busy day—see here (http://www.himejicastle.jp/en/) for the “congestion forecasts,” very handy).

A walk through the gardens offers varied views of the castle.





And we enter the warmth of the keep. As we go up the floors, the rooms get smaller, the ceilings lower, and the stairs steeper. At the top, there’s a nice view of the city. We enjoy the welcome breeze.







When we leave the keep, it’s too late to visit the samurai quarters. (Always those darn schedules. Last entry at 5 PM). Oh well!

Off we go back to Osaka. We’ve booked an apartment near Umeda Station. Super convenient location. When we arrive, we discover the huge shopping complexes in the area. You can walk around entirely indoors. At first, we struggle to find our way, but once we get the hang of it, it’s fine.

Our apartment is lovely. Cozy and quite spacious. The best of the trip.

Thanks again for this wonderful travel journal—it’s helping me pass the time until my departure (only 3 more sleeps, as the kids say!).

I’m obsessed with these balls cooked in molds kind of like waffles. They’re actually a local specialty, takoyaki—octopus-filled dough balls. The octopus is chewy.

I find them pretty bad, really "stodgy" (filling), as a friend of mine puts it. But they’re tied to an amazing memory from a neighborhood matsuri in Tokyo, where I helped run a takoyaki stall. The batter prep was done in big buckets with a paint mixer attached to a drill, the molds were *generously* oiled (by the end of the day, I was greasy from head to toe—we all ended up at the local sento before karaoke), and we broke sales records thanks to the little old folks from the retirement home I’d visited the day before. I lost my voice from shouting "irasshaimasse!" so much.

So, I’m an unconditional member of the intercontinental federation for promoting this specialty to anyone who loves it—and can enjoy my share of it! !

Hi,

Thanks for this account—it’s really helping me plan our trip for this summer. We’re also traveling as a family of four. It’s great to see what we should (or shouldn’t) plan for. For example, we’ll be staying in Miyajima too... We’re just doing the route in reverse and going for less time, but we’re still figuring things out—far from set in stone! So I’m...

Anne

Hi there,

Thanks for stopping by and taking the time to leave this message.

I find it pretty bad, very "pouf-pouf" (filling) as a friend would say

I admit it’s not the best of Japanese gastronomy, but you’ve got to try it at least once.

the mussels are more than generously oiled

Oh, absolutely!

I’d also like to thank you for all the tips you share on the forum—always with so much patience. They’ve been super helpful, especially in Kyoto (I just regretted not being there on one of the flea market days you recommend) and Ainokura (which I think I discovered thanks to you. It would’ve been a shame to miss that village and only go to Shirakawa-go). Thanks a million.

Hi there,

Thanks for your message. It really makes me happy to know you're following along and that it's helpful for your planning. If you have any questions, don't hesitate!

Tuesday, August 9: Osaka

To prepare for this day, I had spotted the main points of interest recommended by Osaka experts on the forum (a big thank you to them). And I’m glad I did.

The day starts with a visit to the Umeda Sky Building, not far from the apartment. Along the way, we see the scale of the redevelopment work around the station. Entire blocks are being demolished to make way for new buildings and massive commercial complexes—nothing is done halfway here.



I’ve said it before, but I love seeing places from up high. The Umeda Sky Building delivers on that.





A quick metro ride, and we’re in the Shinsekai district, described on this forum as a unique place in Japan. With its vibe that’s both totally kitsch and old-fashioned, it really is a world apart. The "New World" (literal translation of Shinsekai) was created in 1912 and was inspired by Paris for its northern part and New York for its southern part. The Tsutenkaku Tower, a distant relative of the Eiffel Tower, is its symbol.

A colorful atmosphere, retro cinemas, vintage neon signs—it all feels like it’s stuck in time, 50 years in the past. Adding to the scene are the Billiken statues, a character with a blissful smile that you see all over the neighborhood. Touching its feet is said to bring good luck.

Another specialty of the area is kushikatsu—breaded and deep-fried skewers of meat and vegetables. To go all out, we chose the most crowded restaurant for lunch (which meant the longest line). Great call! But in Japan, it’s hard to make a bad choice anyway.

With the kids on the verge of melting down, my dear partner a bit tired, and the sun beating down hard, we decided to skip the short walk to Tennoji in favor of another slightly offbeat neighborhood in Osaka: Americamura. The "American Village" is Osaka’s trendy youth district. It’s packed with hip clothing boutiques, music stores, all sorts of restaurants, quirky and colorful street lamps, and young people with more or less elaborate styles.













A Statue of Liberty towers over it all. In the heart of the neighborhood, the little square, the Sankaku kōen (the "Triangular Park"), lets you soak up this unique vibe and makes for a great observation spot.



A little further on, it’s a feast for the sweet tooth with shops selling multicolored cotton candy or ridiculously long ice creams.

Thanks!!! After your description of visiting Himeji—practically in as much "VIP" mode as I did last summer—I love your vivid comments on the photos you shared of Osaka, a city I adore as much as few people truly know it. It’s a wonderful travel journal that I appreciate more and more each day. One detail you might’ve missed from the top of the Sky Building in Umeda... that highway ramp cutting straight through a building! See you soon!

Hello, A really original travel journal that I’ve been following from the start, in a country that’s just as unique—one I’ll probably never set foot in because of the cost of living. Thanks Bluequark (?) for giving me this wonderful trip.

I’m obsessed with these balls cooked in molds that look a bit like waffles. They’re actually a local specialty, takoyaki—dough balls stuffed with octopus. The octopus is chewy.

I find them pretty bad, really "stodgy" (filling), as a friend says.

Horror! Disaster! 😛 The ultimate Japanese junk food for me. Like Bluequark, I’m obsessed!😛

I’ll probably never set foot there because of the cost of living.

Oh, what a nasty misconception! Check out this thread, for example: https://voyageforum.com/discussion/quinze-jours-japon-moins-1-500-oui-c-est-possible-d8725867/

I find pretty bad, really "filler" (stodgy) as a friend says.

Oh no! Disaster! 😛 The ultimate Japanese junk food for me. Like Bluequark, I can’t resist them!😛

Dear Friend, as I said, the fact that I personally don’t like them just means my share is up for grabs—not that I want to discourage anyone from trying them. 😎

Hello,

Thanks for the compliment. Coming from you, I’m especially touched.

Osaka is indeed a city often overlooked by tourists but definitely worth visiting. We loved it. The tips you shared on the forum—which we followed extensively—and your website (www.soleilrouge.org/), which I can’t recommend enough, played a big part in that. One regret: not having time to visit the "old" district near the station that you describe on your site.

Thanks for the photo. I’d missed it... but not my husband, who I showed it to and who said, "Oh, I *did* stare at it for ages because I found it so amusing."

Thanks for the message. Enjoy the trip—it’s free!

The rest (a little)

A few more steps and we’re on the famous Ebisubashi Bridge, the gateway to a third, slightly wild district: Dotonbori, Osaka’s top tourist and foodie hotspot. Giant neon signs, over-the-top kitsch decor, flashy storefronts—once again, our eyes don’t know where to look, and the camera’s clicking nonstop.

A little further on, some quieter alleys, away from the crowds, offer a more traditional charm.





Even further, a passage through a labyrinthine shopping center lets us cross the main streets comfortably in the cool air conditioning. And there we are at Namba Parks! We enjoy the calm of the green terraces in the soft light of the fading day.





You’d think you were in a canyon. Great architecture.

For dinner, we head back to Dotonbori, where I’d spotted an okonomiyaki restaurant thanks to the www.soleilrouge.org/ website (though I can’t find it again on the site now).

The small, more traditional alleys are now lit up with all kinds of lanterns.





An impressive queue awaits us outside the restaurant, but we do as the Japanese do: we wait. This ability of the Japanese to queue up for a good meal will never cease to amaze us.

So, on this gastronomic note, our second day in Osaka comes to an end. We really loved this city. It’s been called the most Mediterranean city in Japan—a mini-Marseille, if you will. That’s not entirely wrong, and my Marseillais husband declares that if we ever move to Japan, it’ll be to Osaka.

Wednesday, August 10: Western Kyoto

For our last day visiting Kyoto, we decided to head west to Arashiyama. A couple of short train rides and we were there. Thanks to the JR Pass, which meant we didn’t have to worry about buying tickets. 😊 Located in the western suburbs of Kyoto, Arashiyama was originally a retreat for the imperial court. Now it’s a little green oasis that’s become a major tourist spot but still retains its charm if you wander away from the station and the Togetsukyō Bridge.





Sticking to our favorite method, we headed straight to the farthest point and made our way back, stopping at various temples along the way. Today’s farthest point was Adashino Nembutsuji. A half-hour walk got us there and gave us a good warm-up. After passing Seiryo-ji, we quickly found ourselves in what felt like the countryside—well, maybe not *the* countryside, but definitely outside the city.







Adashino Nembutsuji is home to thousands of statues—over 8,000, I read. After serving as a mass grave site, the area became a place where locals buried—or in some cases, simply left—their dead. It was essentially a vast cemetery. In the early 20th century, all the graves and funerary objects were gathered within the temple grounds. The thousands of statues now watch over the souls of the departed. (No photos allowed, but I caved… like a few other visitors we saw.)









Adashino Nembutsuji also has a bamboo grove that’s perfect for a peaceful stroll.



Finally, Adashino Nembutsuji is home to a shrine dedicated to children who died young.

A little stroll through some charming, almost deserted alleyways leads us to the Gio-ji Moss Temple. But first, we need to stop for a meal to recharge our batteries. We find a restaurant run by a sweet old man who’s struggling to handle the crowd squeezing into his tiny eatery—just another family and us, after all! He even closes the door as soon as we’re seated. The meal takes forever to prepare, but at least we’re in the cool.





Gio-ji is small but really lovely, with its lush forest and moss carpet. With its maple trees, it must be even more beautiful in autumn.

Just a bit more effort and we're greeted by the Nison-In and its stunning view of the city. More maple trees. This spot is definitely worth revisiting in the autumn.





A few more steps and we’re back at the starting point: a quick detour through the Sagano Bamboo Grove is a must. This bamboo grove is really tiny and less pleasant than the one at Adashino Nembutsuji.

The last planned visit of the day, Tenryu-ji, a famous Zen temple with a renowned garden, closes its doors just as we arrive. Despite a false hope, we have to face the facts and settle for a quick glance at the entrance building: we won’t get to admire the famous garden. Oh well! We should’ve gotten up earlier… or chosen a different restaurant for lunch.





A quick look at the Hozu-gawa from the Togetsukyo Bridge and we find ourselves at the other Arashiyama station. Darn! It’s not a JR station—we got tricked like rookies. Oh well! Nobody really has the energy to make the trip to the other station, so we buy our tickets.

Arashiyama is packed with charming spots we didn’t have time to visit. For those interested and a bit more early-rising, here’s a suggested itinerary (http://www.soleilrouge.org/une-journee-a-arashiyama). Don’t forget Iwatayama and its monkey park either (https://www.kanpai.fr/kyoto/iwatayama).

Dear Friend, as I said, the fact that I personally don’t like them just means my share is available for others—not that I want to discourage anyone 😎

😛

Thursday, August 11: Kanazawa to Ainokura route

Today, we leave the Kansai region behind to explore the Japanese Alps. For this part of the trip, I hesitated between a loop starting from Kanazawa or a Takayama-Kanazawa route. Availability at guesthouses around Shirakawa-go made the decision for us: it would be a loop from Kanazawa.

Off we go! A shinkansen ride takes us to Kanazawa, where we pick up our rental car. The agent at the rental agency is super stressed about dealing with gaijins, but we manage to sort things out—him included.

To get to Ainokura, we take the scenic route and happily discover the Japanese countryside. Once there, we’re greeted again by a lovely little grandmother. Our minshuku (a family-run guesthouse, booked here - https://www.japaneseguesthouses.com/ryokan-search-results/?area=Ainokura) has three rooms (Japanese-style, of course): two for two people and one for four. Since we arrive first and the other guests are also a family of four, we get to choose. We opt for the two rooms for two, separated by a sliding partition. Once again, yukatas are provided for us. The kids love them.



Ainokura was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1995. Nestled in a mountain setting, it features about twenty traditional thatched-roof farmhouses (known as "gassho-style"). With the exception of the two small museums, these houses are still inhabited and are mostly between 100 and 200 years old, with some even reaching 400 years. The steeply pitched roofs (over 60°) allow snow to slide off easily in winter. While summers are mild and relatively cool, winters can bring snow up to four meters deep.

Alright, time for a little stroll around the village!







The museum visit lets us discover traditional tools and, most importantly, learn more about those famous thatched roofs. The thatch is subject to strict fire-safety measures and must be replaced every 15 to 20 years.