Why South Africa? A simple example! (page 4 of 12)

Tembe...

We came to see elephants! And we will—lots, and up close!

Saw elephants













Saw buffalo



Saw plovers



Saw nyalas... loads of them!!!



Saw hares



And saw lions!

As for the lions.

We saw them, briefly and from a distance. Not very far from the entrance with the gate that should’ve been closed... they’re a bit relaxed about security here.

Even if the lions quickly hid in the bush.



The famous blackheadwhitebellybrownbackblacktail



Or maybe it was the blackheadandtailwhitebellybrownback... they all look so alike...







So we’ve got quite a variety, but you should know...

That the reserve is huge, we only visit half of it, the bush in the sand forest can be very dense and limit visibility, and open spaces are pretty rare...

So don’t expect non-stop wildlife action.

You can also, if you’ve got a proper 4x4 (sand makes it a must), head to a hide on your own...

That’s for tomorrow!

Haven't even left yet, and I'm already thinking I'll have to come back with a new itinerary! Thanks for this travel journal 😉

So at the hide, where you go all by yourselves like grown-ups, there's a watering hole.

You can see this hide 24/7 because there's a webcam... from your computer.



Two or three elephants, already looking pretty big, are squabbling.





Then the boss arrives—the big tusker.



I can't believe my eyes!



He chases me away from the watering hole!



And just stands there, drinking!





Even the nyala can't believe it.



Well, eventually, a little dip.





Before coming back to act like the boss.



Then moving away.



Leaving some space for the others.

About the hide.

For example, right now, 3 lions at the waterhole...

http://www.africam.com/wildlife/tembe_webcam

King Tembe.

The Tembe are members of the Tembe "tribe."

They are the original inhabitants of this area. The Zulus took over later.

Their language is very close to Zulu.

In Tembe, we learned that the King (the chief, the *nkosi*) was going to dine here to celebrate his wife’s birthday.

A quick once-over and all hands on deck.

About twenty people arrived, and the manager came to see me (we’d chatted a bit earlier, partly in Zulu, about his King)... It’s my King.

He greeted everyone... and was a little surprised to hear a response in Zulu.

The staff performed a short song as a tribute... Not very polite, the King and his guests seemed to pay little attention to this... gesture.

A little *good evening* and *good night* in Zulu as I left... I wasn’t going to miss that!

So, we dined in the same room as a King... a first for me.

Review of Tembe.

I don’t regret this 2-night stop at all. Far from it. Friendly staff, decent meals, comfortable lodging, good vibe. Interacting with other guests is easy if you put in a little effort. Same with the employees. It’s simple but has the feel of a private game reserve at an affordable price. Wildlife-wise... We saw elephants up *very* close...glimpsed lions...spotted buffalo and antelopes...a great show at the hide.

The downsides... Watch out—the sand forest and bush are still very green this time of year, which limits visibility a bit. The reserve is huge, and only part of it is accessible...if the elephants hide up north, you won’t see them. But that’s the bush, right?

The rangers were a little lax. If the animals show up, the job’s pretty easy...if they’re scarce, it’s up to them to liven up the game drive... They tended to be a bit *too* laid-back.

A South African guy in his 60s who’d traveled all over southern Africa was a little embarrassed for some Dutch tourists. (We’d chatted, and he’d complimented me on my Zulu efforts.) Personally, I wasn’t a fan of the "detachment" during an evening drive...

So, The South African guy went and explained his point to the white owner who was there (thanks to King Tembe)...who, by the way, suddenly became *very* proactive with us afterward—something he hadn’t been before. And I had a word with the Black manager.

A little chat now and then doesn’t hurt, and the next day, the rangers were back on track!

So, that’s one of the downsides. I think there’s a cultural aspect to it.

Other small things to note... The camp gate stays open...Aren’t they worried lions might decide to walk in? A pretty relaxed attitude around elephants...let’s just say they know their limits...I hope.

I still think this is a place worth recommending for its excellent value for money and some really great sighting opportunities!

Tick fever.

That’s where I caught tick fever—in Tembe.

It’s not Lyme disease; it’s rickettsiosis.

The local ticks don’t stay attached—they bite and bolt… so you don’t notice much until the fever hits and the bite wound gets nasty.

You recover quickly and fully, don’t worry—I’m in great shape now.

Going back in time.

In both senses, since physically we're retracing our steps toward iSimangaliso, Western Shores... and in time, because we also took this route 8 and 6 years ago.

The road has changed. It went from dirt tracks to a fairly modern but narrow paved road lined with more shacks than houses. Today, it's a modern road with safe sidewalks, speed humps, and real houses... didn't see a single shack!





iSimangaliso seems to be growing right before our eyes.

First, Eastern Shores (the entrance north of St Lucia, Cape Vidal). Then Kosi Forest, Kosi Bay all the way to Mozambique. Now, truly Western Shores (Dukuduku and Hlozi gates)... and soon a real connection with uMkhuze (in theory, a lion from uMkhuze could make its way to the Western Shores).

The ultimate vision? A vast area encompassing Hluhluwe, uMkhuze, all the private reserves, Tembe, Ndumo, iSimangaliso itself, and Mozambican territory! You’ve got to dream big!

Western Shores, here we come.

Our home for 3 nights, a private lodge with its own private concession in this area.

From the moment we arrived...

It's raining giraffes!

Le zoulou blanc...

I was wondering if Drak's Warrior, the star of convenience stores and post offices, dances as well as Johnny Clegg, the other White Zulu. 😉 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3IEViv6DVYY

Unfortunately, I dance as well as I speak Zulu— Kindergarten level! !

In 2008, we traveled on the same flight as Mr. Clegg In economy class

A little highlight reel

The wildebeest



By the way, how's it going with his harem?

Unlike impalas, which fight for females (in May, it's a non-stop, life-or-death battle)... The wildebeest (this one is a blue wildebeest) finds a nice little spot, grassy with a watering hole, and? Waits... It's the females who come to him (interested females, that is).





Male kudu.



How do you estimate a kudu's age, anyway?

By its horns... 4 years per spiral. So how old is this one? (Answer in the next post).

The three Daltons waiting...

Well, 3 rings = 12 years (which is old for a kudu).

But where’s Charlie?

Can you spot the bushbuck female?

Can you spot her male?

How old do you think this kudu is?

The two kudus must be the same age. But no matter how much I look, I only see two full rings on both specimens, so I’d say 8-9 years. 😕

Same here, I only see two towers. But I’m pretty awake this morning. 😉

Tick fever—I hadn’t heard of it before, thanks for the explanation.

You made some great encounters in that park. I missed seeing zebras and elephants this year. No zebras or elephants in KTP. :( Oh well, we knew that already...

See you soon! :)

Almost 3 full trips, so his birthday (12 years old) is coming up soon.

You get why Ms. Attila (and now me too) have a soft spot for Mountain Retreat?

You’re not the only ones ;P I’m catching up on my backlog 😎