Nuuk Monday, August 13
Nuuk, located at the mouth of the fjord, is surrounded by the sea and mountains.


We booked a boat excursion in the fjord without being able to find out its duration or time despite our requests. No one knows or wants to say. You have to wait until 9 p.m. the night before to find out by checking lists posted at the reception.
The boat will be docked from 1 p.m. to 9 p.m., and our fjord trip is scheduled for 6 p.m. with a return at 8 p.m. That’s about an hour of cruising in the fjord, not counting transfers, for 120 € per person—and at a time when you’d rather be doing something else.
We wanted an excursion to fill the afternoon because there isn’t much to do in Nuuk. We didn’t want to rush through a tour at the last minute in the evening. We’re so disappointed we don’t even feel like going anymore.
Once again, they didn’t have enough excursions for all the passengers, so we easily resold ours to people who were thrilled.
At 2 p.m., we set off on foot toward the so-called “historic” center without waiting for the shuttle. About a 20-minute walk.
240 km south of the Arctic Circle, Greenland’s capital, which we’re passing through, feels soulless and very Americanized—but not in a good way. These regions must be grim to live in during winter with only a few hours of sunlight per day. It’s already so bleak in summer.



The harbor district is the historic center. The small colorful houses brighten up the bay.


From the top of the promontory, there’s a lovely panoramic view. The tiny cathedral, dating back to 1832, is closed.

Behind the historic village, rows of identical apartment blocks where Inuit families were housed stretch along the shoreline.

Two kayaks are out on the water, and when you see them practicing and rolling in the cold water, you think, “Maybe we were lucky our excursion got canceled.”




Actually, these aren’t the same kayaks—they’re very slim, very narrow, made for one person. They’re made of a simple wax-coated canvas stretched over a wooden frame.


The Greenland National Museum is on the harbor. The tour group from the boat catches up with us, and we can discreetly enjoy the explanations. The guide explains that to buy a traditional costume, you have to order it 2 years in advance, and it costs around 7000 €. That seems outrageous to me.

I really liked this chart explaining the use of each type of fur. Each one has a specific purpose.

These mummies (three adults and a baby), dating from the 15th century, were found at the bottom of a cave in the 1970s and are perfectly preserved thanks to the cold, dry air.

Soft, lovely lights illuminate the landscape to end the day.


At sea Tuesday, August 14
Our lecturer’s storytelling talent brings Ernest Shackleton’s incredible Antarctic epic to life with emotion. We already knew the story, but hearing it told so well is pure joy.
We cross the Arctic Circle at 11 a.m. The sun is shining, and the sea is like glass. We’ve been really lucky with the weather.
Tomorrow is the highlight of the cruise—Ilulissat and its UNESCO-listed ice fjord—but also the biggest disappointment Rivages du Monde has in store for us.