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Review of a disappointing cruise with Rivages du Monde in Iceland and Greenland (page 4 of 8)

Discussion started by 4yne on 2018-08-31

146 replies

This thread has been translated into English.


Review of a miserable cruise with Rivages du Monde in Iceland and Greenland

4yne · 2018-09-06 · Message 61 of 147

Thanks Alain, Yes, fortunately, but in this case, the organization isn’t going to be much better than the boat! 😠 😠 😠 🙁 What they’re about to put us through is unimaginable!

Review of a disappointing cruise with Rivages du Monde in Iceland and Greenland

Vsylvie · 2018-09-06 · Message 62 of 147

oh wow! that iceberg is absolutely stunning!! Now that you’ve "left" Iceland, did you like the country? I often look at cruises for this destination, and I find them really expensive... so I’m thinking a road trip must be really great... And why not do a cruise from there to Greenland afterward, which also appeals to me, I must admit... though I might be getting a bit ahead of myself—I don’t even know if it’s possible!

Review of a disappointing cruise with Rivages du Monde in Iceland and Greenland

4yne · 2018-09-07 · Message 63 of 147

Hi Sylvie,

Iceland was really beautiful, with stunning green landscapes similar to what you’d see in Ireland or Scotland. But it’s actually Ireland or Scotland I’d rather return to... For the geological side, it’s great if you haven’t seen Yellowstone before... because after that, it’s like visiting a zoo after an African safari. Aside from the massive tectonic plate rift, which is truly impressive. I hope I don’t offend anyone, but I found that Iceland’s reputation is a bit overhyped compared to reality.

There’s no denying that Iceland is very expensive, even on a road trip. The huge increase in tourism over the past few years has sent accommodation prices skyrocketing.

It’s okay to dream big—the main thing is to have plenty of adventures in mind! 😉 😎

Review of a miserable cruise with Rivages du Monde in Iceland and Greenland

Louxor71 · 2018-09-07 · Message 64 of 147

Hello,

Your travel journal reads like a novel, and like many others, I’m waiting for the next part—I get the feeling this isn’t over yet. Thankfully, there are some stunning photos! I hope you won’t be put off cruises altogether. Given the price of such a cruise, it’s worth asking questions about an organization like this. What did the other passengers think?

Review of a disappointing cruise with Rivages du Monde in Iceland and Greenland

4yne · 2018-09-07 · Message 65 of 147

Hello Louxor71,

Thank you for reading and for your kind words. As you said, I’m glad I at least got to take some photos.

No, I’m not upset with cruises in general—it’s actually my favorite way to travel. I love boats and the sea too much! What I didn’t find on this one, I hope to find and make up for on the next. And from this one, I’ll try to keep the best images—that’s what photos are for.

What really bothers me is the completely unjustified price. And you haven’t even seen the worst of it yet. For such a price, everything is managed on the cheap—bare minimum, the lowest cost, everything is stingy and miserly, whether it’s the food, accommodations, or the organization of stops and excursions.

Many passengers were very unhappy, especially by the end of the cruise, and all you could hear in the hallways were complaints and reproaches.

Review of a disappointing cruise with Rivages du Monde in Iceland and Greenland

4yne · 2018-09-07 · Message 66 of 147

Nuuk Monday, August 13

Nuuk, located at the mouth of the fjord, is surrounded by the sea and mountains.





We booked a boat excursion in the fjord without being able to find out its duration or time despite our requests. No one knows or wants to say. You have to wait until 9 p.m. the night before to find out by checking lists posted at the reception.

The boat will be docked from 1 p.m. to 9 p.m., and our fjord trip is scheduled for 6 p.m. with a return at 8 p.m. That’s about an hour of cruising in the fjord, not counting transfers, for 120 € per person—and at a time when you’d rather be doing something else.

We wanted an excursion to fill the afternoon because there isn’t much to do in Nuuk. We didn’t want to rush through a tour at the last minute in the evening. We’re so disappointed we don’t even feel like going anymore.

Once again, they didn’t have enough excursions for all the passengers, so we easily resold ours to people who were thrilled.

At 2 p.m., we set off on foot toward the so-called “historic” center without waiting for the shuttle. About a 20-minute walk.

240 km south of the Arctic Circle, Greenland’s capital, which we’re passing through, feels soulless and very Americanized—but not in a good way. These regions must be grim to live in during winter with only a few hours of sunlight per day. It’s already so bleak in summer.







The harbor district is the historic center. The small colorful houses brighten up the bay.





From the top of the promontory, there’s a lovely panoramic view. The tiny cathedral, dating back to 1832, is closed.



Behind the historic village, rows of identical apartment blocks where Inuit families were housed stretch along the shoreline.



Two kayaks are out on the water, and when you see them practicing and rolling in the cold water, you think, “Maybe we were lucky our excursion got canceled.”









Actually, these aren’t the same kayaks—they’re very slim, very narrow, made for one person. They’re made of a simple wax-coated canvas stretched over a wooden frame.





The Greenland National Museum is on the harbor. The tour group from the boat catches up with us, and we can discreetly enjoy the explanations. The guide explains that to buy a traditional costume, you have to order it 2 years in advance, and it costs around 7000 €. That seems outrageous to me.



I really liked this chart explaining the use of each type of fur. Each one has a specific purpose.



These mummies (three adults and a baby), dating from the 15th century, were found at the bottom of a cave in the 1970s and are perfectly preserved thanks to the cold, dry air.



Soft, lovely lights illuminate the landscape to end the day.





At sea Tuesday, August 14

Our lecturer’s storytelling talent brings Ernest Shackleton’s incredible Antarctic epic to life with emotion. We already knew the story, but hearing it told so well is pure joy.

We cross the Arctic Circle at 11 a.m. The sun is shining, and the sea is like glass. We’ve been really lucky with the weather.

Tomorrow is the highlight of the cruise—Ilulissat and its UNESCO-listed ice fjord—but also the biggest disappointment Rivages du Monde has in store for us.

Review of a miserable cruise with Rivages du Monde in Iceland and Greenland

Vsylvie · 2018-09-07 · Message 67 of 147

lol, you really know how to keep your audience on the edge of their seats... finally, Greenland... I was a little worried you’d say that about Iceland... since I’ve done Yellowstone... anyway, I can’t wait to hear the end of this thriller ;)

Review of a miserable cruise with Rivages du Monde in Iceland and Greenland

4yne · 2018-09-07 · Message 68 of 147

lol you could say you’ve got us on the edge of our seats...

Plus, I’m mainly doing this for you, because I know you love it...

I was a little worried you’d say that about Iceland... since I’ve done Yellowstone...

Yeah, it’s way smaller than just one of the stops in Yellowstone, and I’m not even talking about the most beautiful ones.

Review of a miserable cruise with Rivages du Monde in Iceland and Greenland

Vsylvie · 2018-09-07 · Message 69 of 147

lol you could say you’ve got your audience on the edge of their seats...

Plus, I’m mainly doing this for you because I know you love it...

No, really, don’t go to all that trouble… I beg you in advance… 😉

I was a little worried you’d say that about Iceland… because I’ve done Yellowstone…

Yeah, it’s way smaller than just one of the stops in Yellowstone, and I’m not even talking about the most beautiful ones.

Ouch… and here I am wanting to go back…

Review of a miserable cruise with Rivages du Monde in Iceland and Greenland

4yne · 2018-09-07 · Message 70 of 147

So, don’t hesitate! It’s unique! And so much better than Greenland even if they’re not comparable.

Feedback on a disappointing cruise with Rivages du Monde in Iceland and Greenland

Atzalca · 2018-09-07 · Message 71 of 147

I don’t think a cruise is the best way to discover Iceland.

Having done it once before as a road trip (around the island) four years ago, and this year on a cruise, I much preferred the first option.

What makes Iceland so charming is the contrast. Being able to go from a lunar volcanic landscape to a lush fjord in very little time, from a sunny black sand beach to a glacier with blue hues, etc. The geological formations and geysers aren’t the most impressive out there, but such a diversity of landscapes and environments is hard to find elsewhere in such a condensed way.

For me, the road trip formula allows you to explore at your own pace, enjoy the variety of stunning landscapes passing by, and linger in unlikely spots with no one around for miles.

A cruise is generally a way to "skim" a place to get an idea of it and return if you liked it. For some destinations, it’s perfect, but for Iceland, I don’t think it’s the best way.

I’m planning to go back, but as a road trip again.

Review of a miserable cruise with Rivages du Monde in Iceland and Greenland

4yne · 2018-09-08 · Message 72 of 147

Ilulissat Wednesday, August 15

It was during dinner last night that the news leaked out: « Excursions will leave from and return to the ship. No transfers will be organized for disembarking. »

Not believing our ears, we head down to reception to get more details. The revolution is already brewing.

Faced with general discontent and disappointment, the "red jackets" are dismissive and insolent. They openly sneer and roll their eyes. They’re annoyed by our complaints and show outright contempt for us. There’s nothing we can do—they’re just mocking us.

At sunrise, the sky is clear, and the day promises to be beautiful.



We’re at sea, 10 miles from the coast. The ship doesn’t drop anchor—it just stays in position. Supposedly, it’s impossible to get closer to the port because of the ice and icebergs. (And if you don’t believe that one, I’ve got another story for you…)

We have no way to reach land. The cruise director tells us they can’t use the lifeboats because they’re not equipped to navigate through ice. (Where’s the ice, then?)

Our excursion to the Ilulissat Icefjord by sea starts at 10 AM and lasts only 2 hours—just one hour of actual navigation, another unpleasant surprise. We’re lucky with our timing; some people had their turn at 7 AM!!!

We board a small, charming fishing boat, but the pleasure is ruined by the frustration. There are 11 of us on board, and we’re counted repeatedly like cattle.

The tourist ride is certainly a good alternative—or a nice supplement—for all these small fishermen. And for us, it’s a pleasure to board these real fishing boats, which have been thoroughly cleaned. No fishy smells tickle our nostrils.





We approach the icefjord—there’s nothing to say… just look. And don’t forget, this tour barely lasted an hour on-site.















Our guide is a baritone. The poor guy is shivering and worried about his throat. He translates the few explanations given by a crew member about how the ice forms.



A few whales come by to say hello.







Finally, a seal colony—the first since we left!



A few last beautiful icebergs before turning back.











The icebergs in this icefjord make for a stunning landscape, but it’s nothing compared to the magic of Antarctica.

To be continued...

Review of a miserable cruise with Rivages du Monde in Iceland and Greenland

Nataly03 · 2018-09-08 · Message 73 of 147

hi there

So the ship's excursions are mandatory for this stop? How much were they charged?

Anyway, your photos are just WOW, what wonders!! Facing such a landscape, you can only forget the annoyances.

Review of a miserable cruise with Rivages du Monde in Iceland and Greenland

4yne · 2018-09-08 · Message 74 of 147

Ilulissat Wednesday, August 15 (Part 2/3)

After this outing (or before, since we didn’t know the schedule), we had planned to walk to Disko Bay. A path in the national park along the heights of the shore overlooks the fjord and offers a fantastic view of the sea of icebergs. It’s a different vantage point to discover this site.

Unfortunately, we were forbidden from doing so—we were confined on board. Those who didn’t have excursions weren’t allowed to disembark at all.

Rivages du Monde calls this a "port of call"! We were going to be stuck on the ship all day, even though this was the most beautiful "stop" of the cruise and the weather was perfect. We were prisoners, locked up—this was the first time I’d ever seen anything like it. A server confirmed that this happens every time they stop here. It’s a real scam to sell this "stop at sea" as a "port of call" when you’re not even allowed to set foot on land.

A few days earlier, I had gone to the excursions desk to ask about the walking path in the national park. They gave me the information but conveniently failed to mention our upcoming captivity.

If we had been warned in advance about this forced confinement, we would have booked a second excursion for the afternoon. But, as usual, we weren’t told about the ban on disembarking until the last minute—the night before, after 9 PM.

Back on the ship, it was still hard to accept being held on board for the day. The cruise director tried to make us believe the lifeboats weren’t suited for navigating through the ice.

We asked for private transport—several of us wanted this solution. It was impossible to arrange; they refused.

We tried to get spots on an afternoon shore excursion, but everything was fully booked.

At the last minute, we managed to take advantage of a cancellation, but there was only one spot. My husband, very generously and chivalrously, let me have it. But it was heartbreaking and guilt-inducing to go alone when there should have been four of us.

The Astoria was alone in the middle of nowhere, with only a few small ice floes—far fewer than in any fjord when you approach a glacier.





The sky clouded over in the early afternoon, creating a beautiful light—completely different from this morning.













Arrival in Ilulissat: Where is the ice that supposedly prevents the Astoria from approaching or launching its lifeboats?







At the entrance to the port, the Seabourn Quest was anchored and disembarking its passengers by lifeboat.



Two water taxis were docked and waiting for potential clients. So it was entirely possible to disembark with private transport.

Minibuses took the excursion group to the starting point of the hike above Disko Bay at the old heliport. Below is the map of the national park that I couldn’t find before leaving—just in case it’s useful.





To be continued...

Review of a miserable cruise with Rivages du Monde in Iceland and Greenland

Nataly03 · 2018-09-08 · Message 75 of 147

This whole thing is a mess, honestly!

Review of a miserable cruise with Rivages du Monde in Iceland and Greenland

4yne · 2018-09-08 · Message 76 of 147

Yes, totally absurd. I forgot to reply about the price—the boat excursion was 110 €.

Review of a miserable cruise with Rivages du Monde in Iceland and Greenland

Nataly03 · 2018-09-08 · Message 77 of 147

Yeah, not cheap for such a short time.

Recap of a miserable cruise with Rivages du Monde in Iceland and Greenland

4yne · 2018-09-08 · Message 78 of 147

Ilulissat Wednesday, August 15 (Part 3/3)

This excursion is just a small part of the hiking trip I had planned to do with three others. The trail is marked and secured on very damp, even marshy peat ground.







And around a bend, the landscape appears over Disko Bay.



The icebergs in Disko Bay break off from the Jakobshavn Glacier, which comes directly from the ice cap. It’s located 70 km further up the fjord and moves about 40 (to 46) meters per day. It’s the fastest glacier in Greenland, with speeds three times higher than in the 1990s.





The fjord is between 3 and 6 km wide here. Its production is enormous—it calves about 10% of Greenland’s glaciers on its own. This is likely where the iceberg that sank the Titanic originated.

Some icebergs are so tall—over 1000 meters—that they can get stuck in the fjord for several years before reaching the ocean.









Access to the shores is forbidden due to tsunami risks. The banks can be flooded at any moment by a tidal wave if a glacier breaks or flips. It’s a stunning sight if you’re safe.





A few whales are frolicking peacefully.









Returning with all these beautiful images in mind—images we should have enjoyed as a group of four and in freedom.



Tonight, most passengers are angry, frustrated, and disappointed when this was supposed to be the highlight of the trip. Being locked up, imprisoned, and held on board against our will—when we paid for a cruise with a stop in Ilulissat—what do you call that? I can only think of one answer: a scam. We were deceived.

Review of a miserable cruise with Rivages du Monde in Iceland and Greenland

Sarnia · 2018-09-08 · Message 79 of 147

Well... Now we see why it’s cheaper.

Out of curiosity, I checked: for 2019, the same equivalent cruise on the Astoria is currently 4,550 € for an outside cabin over 14 days. With Hurtigruten, a cruise on a similar route over 12 days on their brand-new MS Roald Amundsen (same size as the Astoria) is 5,620 € for an outside cabin. On the MS Fram, for 17 days and a ship with half as many passengers, it’s 8,100 €. I didn’t check Ponant, but I imagine their prices are comparable to the Fram, with guaranteed landings (weather permitting) every day.

I’d much rather pay a little (or even a lot) more and be on a ship where they don’t treat me like dirt. Sorry you had such a bad experience—at least you had good weather. I hope you still have great memories of those stunning landscapes, but traveling all that way just to spend the day going in circles is truly pathetic.

Review of a miserable cruise with Rivages du Monde in Iceland and Greenland

Nataly03 · 2018-09-08 · Message 80 of 147

Hi there,

"Just out of curiosity, I checked—the equivalent cruise on the Astoria in 2019 is currently 4550 € for an outside cabin over 14 days."

Per person, I assume?

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