Back to the discussion

in Entre deux voyages › Carnets de voyage

USA 2018 - Las Vegas, St George, Bryce, Kanab, Yellowstone, Moab: SUV + RV trip – mosquitoes in the North, storms in the South (page 4 of 7)

Discussion started by JeffPrX on 2018-09-01

139 replies

This thread has been translated into English.


USA 2018-Las Vegas-St George-Bryce-Kanab-Yellowstone-Moab by SUV+RV: mosquitoes in the North, storm in the South

Falthor · 2018-09-18 · Message 61 of 140

I’m jumping in mid-journey on this really nice travel journal 🙂

I see you did the YellowRock Trail—I almost turned back at first when I saw that big hill because I thought there was a problem with the path. Plus, I was there at 2 PM, so you at least had some shade Anyway, I ended up going up, and it was totally worth it

USA 2018 - Las Vegas, St George, Bryce, Kanab, Yellowstone, Moab by SUV + RV: mosquitoes in the North, storms in the South

JeffPrX · 2018-09-19 · Message 62 of 140

Good evening Amaury, and welcome! I was starting to feel lonely!! 🙂

USA 2018 - Las Vegas - St George - Bryce - Kanab - Yellowstone - Moab by SUV + RV: mosquitoes in the North, storm in the South

JeffPrX · 2018-09-19 · Message 63 of 140

J14: Sunday, July 8. Canyon -> Lamar Valley -> Canyon (125 km)

THE bear day! The nights are much better here. We have breakfast outside in the cool air, and after the usual dump, we leave around 8:15 AM for the Canyon Visitor Center, which focuses on volcanism, and the shops. A quick detour takes us to Artist Point, THE viewpoint over the canyon. It’s stunning and so colorful, with a rainbow at the base of the waterfall. The lighting is perfect. The kids draw in their ranger journals. In 2014, we didn’t have time to go to this overlook—now we’ve done it! No regrets, it’s totally worth the stop and easy to access. It was crowded, but parking wasn’t an issue. There were quite a few areas closed for construction in the Canyon zone. We hit the road for Lamar Valley, and after Mount Washburn, there are bears—so, traffic jams! In less than two hours, we spot no fewer than six bears, much to the delight of kids and adults alike. Our first stop is a last-minute one (the second RV couldn’t park, and the kids were really disappointed) for a mother bear and her two cubs in a tree. For the mom, we only catch a glimpse of fur, but we can see the ears of the two cubs higher up in the tree. The people on the side of the road are super nice, pointing out where to look or lending their spotting scopes. The ranger on-site leaves, and we run into her a little later: a bear is settled on a rock by the stream below the road. There’s no place to stop on this narrow stretch, so she explains to each vehicle what to look for and counts five seconds for photos—after that, you have to move on to make room for the next car. We got a good look—it looked like a rug thrown on the rock! A few kilometers later, a bear is wandering along the hillside, but by the time JF gets out with his camera, the bear’s gone! Luckily, his brother is right behind to pick him up. After the Tower Junction, a bear is resting at the foot of a tree. We manage to park both RVs not too far away to go see it. Our next goal is the short Slough Creek trail. A nice, smooth road takes us there, and we spot a pronghorn that’s not too shy. We have a picnic first, then head out for the hike around 2:15 PM. We want to reach the river and then turn back. It’s a pretty steep climb, very flowery, and the prairie dogs are everywhere—they’re fun to watch. But the place is swarming with Yellowstone mosquitoes: a particularly voracious and social breed! When you kill one, 300 show up for the funeral!! So we turn back before even catching a glimpse of the river! Around 4 PM, we head back through Lamar Valley. There are huge herds of bison and a few pronghorns. It’s gorgeous. We return to the Canyon campground without seeing a single bear by the road. JF is feverish, and Christophe takes care of the barbecue. It seems like there are slightly fewer mosquitoes.

Lesson of the day: Those mosquitoes are relentless!

USA 2018 - Las Vegas - St George - Bryce - Kanab - Yellowstone - Moab by SUV + RV: mosquitoes in the North, storms in the South

JeffPrX · 2018-09-20 · Message 64 of 140

Day 15: Monday, July 9. Canyon -> Norris Basin -> Fountain Paint Pots -> Madison Campground (85 km)

JF is still running a high fever, and we leave around 8:30 AM to stop by the US Postal Service in Canyon. We take the opportunity to buy some US mosquito repellent. We head down to the Lower Falls—still breathtaking—though Annwen isn’t comfortable near the edge of the drop. Next, we cross over to the west side of Yellowstone, starting with Norris Basin. It takes two or three loops around the parking lot to find a spot for an RV (cars are circling too, sometimes taking the large spaces reserved for buses and RVs). For the second loop, we wait in double-file while a tour bus picks up its Chinese group! JF makes an effort to see Porcelain Basin before heading back to lie down. The colors are milky and pastel—just as pretty as ever!

Some renovation work is underway, so half the boardwalks are closed. We move straight on to Back Basin—it’s quiet, and a small geyser greets us. In the distance, the massive Steamboat Geyser seems to be smoking: it’s erupting! Louenn and Christelle rush over with the GoPro, worried it might stop. But no, the whole family joins them to enjoy the show—it’s impressive.

We have a slightly late picnic by the Gibbon River, and the kids spend a good while splashing around. Since it’s impossible to park two (or even one) RVs at Artist Paint Pots, we continue to Grand Prismatic. But at the sight of the crowd parked along the road, we turn around! We try our luck at Fountain Paint Pots—success! We didn’t visit it in 2014, and it’s a great stop: a beautiful mud pot with its bubbles, stunning pools, and a very active geyser. A swallow keeps flying in and out of its tree hole. A perfect way to end the day!



Photo limit of 20 reached! More to come! Christelle and JF

USA 2018 - Las Vegas - St George - Bryce - Kanab - Yellowstone - Moab by SUV + RV: mosquitoes in the North, storm in the South

JeffPrX · 2018-09-20 · Message 65 of 140

Day 15.2: Monday, July 9. Canyon -> Norris Basin -> Fountain Paint Pots -> Madison Campground (85 km)

We arrive at Madison Campground fairly early; there’s a bit of a line at check-in. Christelle, Delphine, and Papoune take the kids for a swim in the river. The water isn’t too cold—it doesn’t take your breath away like a mountain stream—and it’s really nice. It’s not very deep, so you can sit in it, and the kids just let the current carry them. The sun sets around 7 p.m., and we head back.

There are no showers at this campground, so everyone takes turns in the RV. It’s pretty funny hearing everyone’s little issues (a door that sticks, water temperature adjustments, etc.). During happy hour, we put the finishing touches on the Junior Ranger booklets. Since the oldest cousin has to fill everything out, the others follow suit, and the booklets will be completely done! Tonight, it’s barbecue again! We take advantage of it with sausages and super creamy mashed potatoes, plus some orchestrated singing led by Papoune for the little ones’ enjoyment. With mosquito repellent on our clothes, we’re a bit more at ease. At 9:30 p.m., Delphine and Christelle volunteer to take the kids to the ranger talk at the amphitheater. The short walk is nice, but the talk is a bit less so: hard to understand and translate, a little long, still mosquitoes, and a topic about the early days of tourism that wasn’t very exciting for the kids. But the ranger signs the booklets—that’s what matters! Other talks would’ve been more suitable, especially at Old Faithful, but timing made it tricky. On the way back, Delphine gets lost after leaving the restroom and takes a good fifteen minutes with her little flashlight to find her bed!

Lesson of the day: US mosquito repellent is more effective, the pastel colors of Porcelain Basin are still just as subtle and delicate, Fountain Paint Pots is really cool, and seeing Steamboat in action is a great moment!

See you for the next part! Christelle and JF

Madison Campground, booked and partially paid in October through Xanterra, restrooms, drinking water, dump and fill station at the exit, FULL

USA 2018 - Las Vegas, St George, Bryce, Kanab, Yellowstone, Moab by SUV+RV: mosquitoes in the North, storm in the South

Disneydiddl · 2018-09-21 · Message 66 of 140

Hello Jean-François,

I’ve fallen behind on my reading and am trying to catch up now. I love your route—Bryce is one of the most beautiful places in the West (in my opinion). And Willis Creek was a real highlight for us too, even though we had to rush the end of the hike (we turned back quickly because a storm was rolling in... and it wasn’t that far away). You were so lucky with Cottonwood Road; we had to skip it (too much mud, and the rangers strongly advised against it). I hope I can go someday—it’s stunning! And Yellow Rock is tempting too (though I don’t think it’s for me). Your photos are amazing. Love the photo session at Old West Photos. You must have great memories with such a fun group! 😉 Oh, West Thumb in the sunshine! So many beautiful colors—we weren’t that lucky. And you saw six bears in such a short time! The "carpet" (bear) is adorable 😉 You really were lucky: Steamboat Geyser erupting (for us, there was just smoke). Funny, we’re at the same point in our travel journals (Norris Basin). I wonder if the rest will be similar too. What camera gear do you use? See you soon, Françoise

USA 2018 - Las Vegas, St George, Bryce, Kanab, Yellowstone, Moab by SUV + RV: mosquitoes in the North, storms in the South

JeffPrX · 2018-09-23 · Message 67 of 140

What camera gear are you using? See you soon, Françoise

Good evening Françoise,

Thanks for your reply. We were really lucky with the weather!

I agree with you about Bryce: even though it’s super famous, it’s one of the most beautiful sites in the West. That said, you do need to venture down into the depths of the amphitheater to escape the crowds and discover the full palette of colors! 🙂

As for Yellowstone’s Grand Prismatic (I assume you meant that instead of "Yellow rock"): in my opinion, only the first climb is tough, but it’s just 15-20 minutes of struggle. After that, even if you don’t make it to the summit, you can walk around the plateau and still enjoy a great view at the base of the yellow rock formation. 🙂

To answer your question: most of the photos I’ve posted were taken with a **CANON EOS 5D3** paired with an **EF 24-105mm F4L IS USM** lens. Some were taken by Christelle using a compact **SONY DSC HX60V**, and others by our daughter (who has an entry-level **NIKON** compact). Occasionally, there are also photos from my parents—my dad uses the same setup as me, and my mom has a bridge camera (I don’t know the model!). Need any more specific details?

As for our plans: we’ve got one more day in Yellowstone, then we’re heading back down to Moab to explore Arches and Canyonlands before returning to Las Vegas via Lee’s Ferry. I should be posting the next update tomorrow evening!

Have a great evening, JF

USA 2018 - Las Vegas - St George - Bryce - Kanab - Yellowstone - Moab by SUV + RV: mosquitoes in the North, storm in the South

JeffPrX · 2018-09-24 · Message 68 of 140

Day 16: Tuesday, July 10. Madison -> Grand Prismatic -> Old Faithful / Madison (70 km)

Annwen has 52 mosquito bites and JF is still comatose. To avoid the crowds, we leave at 8 AM for the Grand Prismatic boardwalks: not many people but lots of steam! Seeing the size of the parking lot, we understand the recurring traffic jam on the road. In 2014, we hiked off-trail up a hill to the southwest, and the view was breathtaking!! On the boardwalks, the walk is nice, and the experience is totally different—it’s worth it, especially if there aren’t too many people!

Afterward, we try a walk along Nez Percé Creek, but there are way too many hungry, biting bugs (mosquitoes, horseflies, deer flies…). It gets hard to take photos without moving, even though the riverside is pretty. There are even two big bison that make Louenn a little nervous, forcing us to take a swampy detour—even better for the mosquitoes! We turn back, taking the Mary Mountain West trail. We wake up JF, who thought he could sleep longer! Old Faithful, here we come!!! We park without any issues and check out the exhibit on geothermal phenomena while waiting for the eruption. The Junior Rangers are doing their little prediction calculations. First eruption—we watch from the benches near the geyser, right in the middle of the crowd.

Next, we head up the hill across from Old Faithful to see the next eruption (and check our Junior Rangers’ time predictions!) by way of the fun and busy Solitary Geyser. The trail climbs quite a bit and is lined with pretty flowers (yellow columbine, gentian, orchids…). The view from up there is much calmer and really gives you a sense of the geyser’s size! On the way down, some marmots put on a show. Back at the bottom, it’s time to get the booklets validated by the rangers. The smiling ranger takes the time to admire the drawings and chat with her colleague. The kids are a little stressed because there’s one word they couldn’t find… The result is satisfying—after taking the oath, our three Junior Rangers come out of the Visitor Center with badges on their shoulders, feeling really proud. JF is doing better; he tagged along. We share our traditional midday buffet in the RV in the parking lot, then head back to the boardwalks all the way to Morning Glory Pool. Along the way, we catch a third eruption of Old Faithful! The colors of Morning Glory Pool are beautiful—a lovely gradient from green to yellow. That’s where we see a whole busload of discreet Asians and a less discreet group from Eastern Europe (Russians?).

Photo limit of 20 reached! To be continued… Christelle and JF

USA 2018 - Las Vegas - St George - Bryce - Kanab - Yellowstone - Moab by SUV+RV: mosquitoes in the North, storm in the South

JeffPrX · 2018-09-24 · Message 69 of 140

J16.2: Tuesday, July 10. Madison -> Grand Prismatic -> Old Faithful / Madison (70 km)

We continue through the Upper Geyser Basin and finish with the beautiful colors of Morning Glory Pool: a lovely gradient from green to yellow. It’s here that we see a whole busload of discreet Asians arrive, along with a less discreet group from Eastern Europe (Russians?).

On the way back, Grotto Geyser starts erupting: it’s quite impressive. Our feet are killing us! JF kept going, but now Christophe has had to bow out due to back problems!

After a few purchases at the General Store, we head back—it’s already 5:30 PM. We skip Black Sand Basin and Biscuit Basin since they’re not accessible to RVs, but at least this time we really got to enjoy the Upper Geyser Basin. We try our luck at the south parking lot for Grand Prismatic… Bingo, there aren’t too many people, and we climb up to the platform. It’s not as spectacular as from the hilltop four years ago… We return to the campground to dump the tanks, then take showers and grill some bacon with wood the kids gathered. Singing around the fire...🙂 Still those *enormous* mosquitoes…

Today’s takeaway: The best of the Upper Geyser Basin

More to come soon Christelle and JF

USA 2018 - Las Vegas, St George, Bryce, Kanab, Yellowstone, Moab by SUV+RV: mosquitoes in the North, storm in the South

Marati · 2018-09-24 · Message 70 of 140

Hello JF, Thanks for this really nice travel journal to follow, complete with gorgeous photos. It must be more than frustrating—the issues you had with the 5DIII, especially with the harsh light in the VOF or Saint George area, where that camera would have really shone. 😕 I particularly love your photos of Willis Creek, Kodachrome, and the cowboy photo shoot in Jackson. At Yant Flat, it’s too bad you didn’t push further into the central area, but without GPS, I get why you didn’t want to venture out with kids. That just means you’ll have to go back! About Yellowstone, I’m really surprised by your mosquito problems—we camped there for 3 nights this summer at Grant Village and weren’t bothered by mosquitoes at all.

At Nez Percé Creek, I had a good laugh seeing your not-so-pretty bison photo. That’s where we saw our first bison. So, I checked our photos to see if it was the same one—nope, ours is even uglier! Like Françoise, I think your West Thumb photos turned out especially well.

USA 2018 - Las Vegas, St George, Bryce, Kanab, Yellowstone, Moab by SUV+RV: mosquitoes in the North, storm in the South

JeffPrX · 2018-09-25 · Message 71 of 140

Hi Guillaume, Thanks for your nice message!

It must be so frustrating, the hassles you had with the 5DIII, especially since with the harsh light in the VOF or Saint George area, that camera would have been perfect. 😕

Don’t rub salt in the wound!! 😕 I’m still fuming but haven’t given up on finding a solution (I’m actually thinking of going to a pro photographer with a USB drive—you never know?!).

I especially love your photos of Willis Creek, Kodachrome, and the cowboy photo shoot in Jackson.

We had a blast at the Jackson Hole photo shoot—kids and adults were laughing so much! Though it wasn’t cheap....😛

At Yant Flat, it’s too bad you didn’t push further into the central area, but without GPS, I get why you didn’t want to venture out with kids. That’ll be a reason to go back!

You’re right; no GPS, but mostly it was the intense heat we weren’t acclimated to yet! We’ll have to go back (and to VOF too, by the way)! Such a shame!!!😉

About Yellowstone, I’m really surprised by your mosquito problems—we camped 3 nights at Grant Village this summer and weren’t bothered at all. At Nez Percé Creek, I had a good laugh seeing your photo of that not-so-handsome bison. That’s where we saw our first one. I checked our photos to see if it was the same individual, but no—ours is even uglier!

We were there in 2014, late August/early September, and didn’t have that issue! Clearly, outside the usual tourist stops (almost like mass tourism scares off the mosquitoes!!), we were dealing with real swarms!!! So annoying—it kept us from enjoying campfires and BBQs in the evening...😠

Like Françoise, I think your West Thumb photos turned out really well.

We did get lucky with the sun (like in 2014)! I really love this spot—it’s a great way to ease into Yellowstone. Unfortunately, I don’t remember which forum member advised us in 2014 to start at West Thumb and explore counterclockwise to gradually build up to the most stunning landscapes... but they were totally right!

Have a great day Christelle and JF

USA 2018 - Las Vegas, St George, Bryce, Kanab, Yellowstone, Moab by SUV + RV: Mosquitoes in the North, Storms in the South

Disneydiddl · 2018-09-25 · Message 72 of 140

Hi JF,

Regarding Yellow Rock: from my point of view, only the first climb is tough... But it only lasts 15-20 minutes of struggle. After that, even if you don’t make it to the top, you can walk around the plateau and enjoy a great view at the foot of the yellow rock.🙂

From what I’ve read in different travel journals, it’s still pretty rough, but if I train, I might make it one day 😉 Thanks for all this info about the photos you posted. So, your whole family takes photos—it’s great to be able to compare them afterward.

Oh, that Grand Prismatic! I have no idea how I’ll choose my photos. I loved it (though I’ll say more and give some nuance in my travel journal). You seem to have been really bothered by mosquitoes and other bugs; we barely had any complaints. I just got one bite from I-don’t-know-what on my neck, which really freaked me out. I see that, like me (and many others), you had trouble fitting Morning Glory Pool into one photo. They should move the walkways farther back 😉. It’s true you got to enjoy the Upper Geyser Basin with great sunshine again (which we didn’t have). Beautiful photos, as always. See you soon, Françoise.

USA 2018 - Las Vegas - St George - Bryce - Kanab - Yellowstone - Moab by SUV + RV: mosquitoes in the North, storm in the South

JeffPrX · 2018-09-25 · Message 73 of 140

Oh, that Grand Prismatic! I have absolutely no idea how I’m going to choose my photos. I loved it (though I’ll say more and give some nuance in my travel journal).

Can’t wait to see your itinerary!!

USA 2018 - Las Vegas-St George-Bryce-Kanab-Yellowstone-Moab by SUV+RV: Mosquitoes in the North, Storm in the South

JeffPrX · 2018-09-25 · Message 74 of 140

J17: Wednesday, July 11. Madison -> Green River -> Flaming Gorge (392 miles) Today, we’re heading back down to the red rocks! (So not many photos, but lots of GoPro footage!!) We empty the tanks before leaving Yellowstone for good around 6:15 this morning. The sky is pretty overcast. We take our time for some final photos in the park—there are female elks and their calves by the roadside. A few more stops in Grand Teton; it’s hard to leave the cool air for the heat of the red sand… but we’re hoping not to run into any mosquitoes! A quick stop in Jackson lets us refuel on gas and grab sandwiches for the long drive ahead. We’re back in touch with the world: France is in the World Cup final!!! We head south along the Hoback River on the 191, then turn onto the 189 toward La Barge and Fontenelle before reaching Green River (WY). First, it’s a valley with ranches, then desert areas. Suddenly, colorful badlands appear out of nowhere… There are towns (if you can call them that) that feel empty, fields of gas wells, and isolated factories. It’s a unique environment, and the roads are deserted. We follow the Green River more or less. Like the route we took in 2014 to head down to Salt Lake City (Jackson, Montpelier, Cokeville, Evanston, Park City), this itinerary is a real favorite for us: deep Wyoming, the constant feeling of being alone, straight roads stretching as far as the eye can see (a record of 26 miles without a single turn!!!), and trains with dozens of cars (a record of 188!) spread out over several miles!! We do our shopping at the Smith’s in Green River. At checkout, as usual, there’s a cashier and a "bagger"; he quickly realizes we don’t need two bags for a bag of apples… and hands us the big items directly with a questioning smile! Then we hit the road again toward Flaming Gorge, continuing on the 191. A storm is brewing on the horizon, and we see a wildfire by the roadside, likely caused by lightning. This stretch of road is completely different from what we saw this morning: now we’re driving on a desert plateau that turns into a dry mountain range resembling the Spanish Pyrenees… This area seems geologically interesting, with explanatory signs lining the road regularly.

We arrive at Flaming Gorge, and after crossing the dam and then a bridge, we make a short stop at Red Canyon. It’s 5:30 PM, the Visitor Center is already closed, but it’s peaceful and beautiful—a nice break after all that driving. There’s no one in the parking lot. As we leave, a big marmot waves us off from the base of its tree. We camp at Lodgepole at Flaming Gorge on the way to Vernal. It’s cool and idyllic, in a grove of aspen trees. JF, who’s walking around the campground, even gets invited for a beer. We’d been spotted ahead of time: some French folks coming straight down from Yellowstone—that must’ve sparked some conversation… Shower time: Louenn finds the stop button that keeps the temperature setting. Fewer screams in the shower from now on… The sky looks threatening. We skip the barbecue—it’s too deep for our charcoal. The storm rumbles and forces us to eat dessert inside (big disappointment: the ice cream melted; we had a little fridge issue). Too bad, there weren’t any mosquitoes… It rains most of the night (a first for our trip).

Lesson of the day: A long drive, but so many different landscapes along the way!!!

See you for the next update! Christelle and JF

Camping Lodgepole at Flaming Gorge, booked and paid 4 months in advance on Recreation.gov, with toilets, drinking water, dump, and fill-up (paid)


USA 2018 - Las Vegas - St George - Bryce - Kanab - Yellowstone - Moab by SUV + RV: mosquitoes in the North, storm in the South

JeffPrX · 2018-09-26 · Message 75 of 140

Day 18: Thursday, July 12. Flaming Gorge -> Arches (417 km)

Today's proverb: "gasoline is useful whereas a flat tire is useless" !!!

A cool night and no mosquitoes. We left at 7:30 AM—there’s still a lot of driving today, and we’d like to enjoy the evening in Arches. With last night’s rain, the dump station is flooded! We started with a road under construction, and there’s work for miles. The roads here are often really rough, and everything rattles in the RV (shower door, screen door, stove cover, etc.). The landscape is still arid and mountainous.

We passed through Vernal—finally, a "real town"—very flowery and decked out with star-spangled banners and dinosaurs everywhere. Gas stations reminded us that an RV runs on good old gasoline... The road continued through an arid plain lined with oil wells, power lines going every which way, and tiny deserted towns with tons of auto garages!

The girls have been driving for a while, and the road is getting worse—it’s tiring. We’re in Colorado now. After Rangely, a "dead-end town," it gets even rougher on Douglass Pass Road! Every side canyon looks like a perfect hiking spot. The road climbs and climbs to 2,520 m—it’s green and wooded again, with lots of twists and turns.



On the way down, a pilot car guided us through a construction zone for several miles (Americans don’t use traffic lights for roadwork—they’ve always got guys with little signs). The view was beautiful, all the way to the La Sal Mountains.

Finally, our route took us into the lush Colorado River valley toward Fruita. Ranches, meadows, and irrigated fields reappeared. The GPS quickly led us to I-70. We were cruising along the highway when Christelle noticed the C30 was running low on gas (and at 25L/100km, the gauge drops fast!!)😛. We quietly warned the drivers of the second RV over the walkie-talkie. We kept driving, turning off the AC and all device chargers. JF checked his GPS for a gas station—he was hoping for one in Cisco, but it turned out to be a ghost town! We had a few options: turn back (not our style), go to Crescent Junction (but we’d miss the long-awaited Scenic 128 along the Colorado), or stick to the plan and see what happens (the next gas station was in Moab!). We obviously chose the last option!!😎 Without AC, it started getting hot in the RV, so the kids were moved to the second vehicle. The plan was to stop in the Colorado Gorge for lunch and a quick dip while the C25 headed to Moab for gas cans. Everything went smoothly—we dodged the out-of-gas bullet!! Bring on the Scenic 128!! The seniors and juniors weren’t told about the problems yet—but a little pile of rocks falling from the cliff was about to change our plans. Pssshhhhhiiittt—a flat tire! We pulled over in a hurry—whew, there’s a beach for the kids.😎

Of course, there’s no cell service in this remote spot between two red cliffs. JF and Christophe left for Moab with quick sandwiches to call for help and get gas. Lucky for us, it was the same RV that was both flat and empty! It was 1:45 PM, the others were eating, and it was hot. The kids splashed in a shallow, calm area, protected by hats and sunglasses—but not for too long, since their supervisors were baking on the shore. Reading, games, waiting for the "prodigal sons" to return. Around 4:30 PM, they came back with 3 gallons of gas and a promise of roadside assistance at 7 PM sharp! While we waited, Delphine took the rest of the group to enjoy the scenic road and take photos of the gorges. This Route 128 is honestly stunning!!! It’s really beautiful.



20-photo limit reached! More to come. Christelle and JF

USA 2018 - Las Vegas-St George-Bryce-Kanab-Yellowstone-Moab by SUV+RV: mosquitoes in the North, storm in the South

JeffPrX · 2018-09-26 · Message 76 of 140

Day 18.2: Thursday, July 12. Flaming Gorge -> Arches (417 km)

Then the guys head back to Moab to wait for the technician who arrives alone by the river at 7:05 PM! He came from Cortez, 150 miles away! Oh well, Christophe and JF will wait for nothing and might have to call roadside assistance again? Meanwhile, we’ve got a great mechanic who changes the badly punctured and abnormally worn tire, and reinflates the other three (the other front tire really needed it). At 7:50 PM, we set off again, hurrying a bit (but not too much because of the low fuel reserve). We take some amazing photos with a storm in the distance. Then Christophe shows up, worried: he left JF waiting for the hypothetical tow truck in Moab, and they got caught in a downpour. We head to Moab to pick up JF at the gas station—he’s calmly sipping a vanilla coffee!!

The storm’s following us!! Then at dusk, we head up to Arches with the last rays of sunlight. It looks beautiful… We have dinner by the light of the RV’s door, exhausted from our adventures—the kids are almost falling asleep at the table. There are tons of insects, but no mosquitoes. JF tries some star photos… and fails! We sleep with the door and windows open…

Lesson of the day: Abnormal wear on the RV’s front tires 😠 but Cruise America assistance was efficient 🙂, US128 is stunning, and what colorful, unique landscapes we’ve seen since yesterday morning (the GoPro had a blast)!!!

See you for the next update! Christelle and JF

Camping at Devil’s Garden, booked and paid 6 months in advance on Recreation.gov, with restrooms and drinking water (but no dump station or tank refill). Gorgeous setting, FULL. Photo taken the next morning at sunrise.

USA 2018 - Las Vegas - St George - Bryce - Kanab - Yellowstone - Moab by SUV + RV: mosquitoes in the North, storm in the South

PapJ59 · 2018-09-27 · Message 77 of 140

Hello,

That’s exactly where, on the left side of the bend, I saw a Mormon family arrive, dressed head to toe (+ hats...), then strip down to nothing in 1 minute... and jump into what looked like pretty hot water! Shocked, I made myself scarce quickly!

This spot at Madison Campground is amazing, 08/19/2012:



Love your travel journal!

USA 2018 - Las Vegas - St George - Bryce - Kanab - Yellowstone - Moab by SUV + RV: mosquitoes in the North, storm in the South

JeffPrX · 2018-09-27 · Message 78 of 140

Day 19: Friday, July 13Arches -> Corona Arch -> Moab (81 km)

The scenery at sunrise is stunning, and we enjoy the glowing red rocks during breakfast. At 8 AM, we're all ready for the Devil’s Garden Trail. We start with Pine Tree Arch, then Tunnel Arch, where a little mule deer is prancing around. Most of the group stops at the beautiful and fragile Landscape Arch. JF, Christelle, Annwen, and Louenn continue on to Double O Arch. From there, it gets a bit more challenging. There are some hogback sections! It’s all well and good… The rest of the family waits patiently in the shade at the trailhead—there’s a water point nearby. They chatted with some other French travelers.

We leave Arches after a few photo stops and a visit to the Visitor Center. The kids couldn’t do the Junior Ranger booklet, and we’re left wanting more—we’ll have to come back here too!!! We didn’t even do the Windows Loop, what a shame!



20-photo limit reached! To be continued... Christelle and JF

USA 2018 - Las Vegas - St George - Bryce - Kanab - Yellowstone - Moab by SUV + RV: mosquitoes in the North, storms in the South

JeffPrX · 2018-09-27 · Message 79 of 140

Day 19.2: Friday, July 13Arches -> Corona Arch -> Moab (81 km)

Then back to Moab to check in for the seniors' hot-air balloon flight scheduled for tomorrow morning: it'll be at sunrise, departure at 5:45 AM!!! We take the scenic Route 279 along the Colorado River and have a picnic at the Corona Arch parking lot, with the air conditioning running—it's unbearably hot. JF and Christelle still head out on the trail, with plenty of water and a soaked hat.

It's tough; we get out of breath quickly and are drenched, but the path isn't difficult. It's even quite fun (we'll have to come back with the kids early one morning): crossing a railroad track, cables, a ladder... And finally, after a 30-minute walk, we can sit in the shade of the cliff, even if the ground is hot, and admire Corona Arch and Bow Tie Arch from a distance. Suddenly, the whistle of a train breaks the silence! With the echo off the rocks, we can't tell which direction it's coming from, but it's loud. We wait eagerly... And out come two locomotives pulling three tiny wagons that seem to struggle along!

On the way back, we still take the time to stop at the beautiful petroglyph panels along the road.

While we were hiking at Corona Arch, the other RV had left for the campground in Moab. When we arrive, the kids have already been in the pool for an hour and a half! After a good shower (very spacious), we join them, but the water isn't refreshing. After two solid hours of soaking, the kids get out, and then Papoune arrives... We can't leave him alone! Then it's laundry and a bacon barbecue evening. It's muggy, but the storm doesn't break tonight. Will the hot-air balloon take off tomorrow?

Lesson of the day: The highlight of Corona Arch, and the feeling of not having enough time in Arches NP (By the way, have you read Edward Abbey's book *Desert Solitaire*?)

See you for the next part! Christelle and JF

Slickrock Campground in Moab (on the outskirts of town toward Arches), booked and paid in January (with some website issues, so by email). Spot in the shade of tall cottonwoods, laundry, pool (not very clean), water and electricity hookup (full hookup available).

USA 2018 - Las Vegas - St George - Bryce - Kanab - Yellowstone - Moab by SUV + RV: mosquitoes in the North, storm in the South

Ju45 · 2018-09-28 · Message 80 of 140

Hello Christelle and JF,

Your photos are always so beautiful. Such a pleasant travel journal to follow. Thanks for sharing!

Julien

VoyageForum — the largest community of French-speaking travellers.