In Search of Warmth in California, Utah, and Arizona in February (page 4 of 13)

Hello Jean-Philippe,

Your photos of Death Valley make me really want to visit there in winter.

It’s such a treat to enjoy it fully without worrying about the heat... Everyone made sure to drink half a liter of water during the full hike at Zabriskie Point!

Hi Diamina,

If you choose the Argentine/Chilean NO, the southern Lipez, I’ve got tons of info for you.😏 And honestly, it’s way more beautiful than Ladakh!! Plus, you’ve got way more options for accommodation. If you want to go to both places, then start with Ladakh.🤪

Yeah, I know 😉!! I even left you a note on your blog! I’m digging into Bolivia and the NOA for two separate trips because the border crossings are too complicated. I keep thinking about the place where you and Jef were supposed to stay for two nights but ended up cutting your stay short—without the owner understanding—and the big laugh you had about it... 😏

Day 4, Tuesday 02/12 – Valley of Fire

After our first night camping, I wake up around 4 AM—not because I slept too much, but because of the cold. Maxime and I are sleeping in 1°C comfort-rated bags, while Rachel and Tim have -9°C comfort-rated ones.

To fight the cold, I do the opposite of what I should: I add another fleece layer and put on a second pair of pants... Yet in the army, I was taught to sleep in just my underwear, and *only* my underwear...🤪

When we finally wake up for good at 6 AM, it’s freezing outside. A glance at the 4x4’s thermometer: -2°C 😮! Really, it’s freezing at Valley of Fire?? No sleeping in, then—we quickly pack up our gear to warm up in the car while enjoying our last donuts. Thankfully, St. George isn’t far 😛!

The sun’s barely peeking over the horizon when we’re already on the road, heading to VOF.



After a few minutes, we spot a shadow moving against the hillside in the distance: a bighorn sheep! Given the distance, I grab my 150-600mm zoom—it won’t be overkill.



Some Americans pull up and stop, curious, since they don’t see anything... A pair of binoculars would’ve come in handy!

Next, we stop to pay the entrance fee via an envelope system and head straight to the trailhead for the Seven Wonders hike with the Kaolin Wash extension (GPS track available via PM).

What a gorgeous access road!



It’s only 7:30 AM, and the colors are already vibrant. Just before Fire Wave, on the left, we spot some moqui marbles.





We spend a little time here since a couple beat us to Fire Wave.



So we photograph the surroundings while waiting for the spot to ourselves.



Minutes pass, but they don’t budge... We eventually head to Fire Wave, the famous wave. But the American guy, not content with having the site to himself, decides he hasn’t had enough and even sets up his tripod *right* in the middle of the wave. We wait a bit, then a lot—I stare at the guy, hoping he’ll get the hint that he doesn’t have an exclusivity contract! No luck. He takes his sweet time 😠... Everyone knows a tripod is *mandatory* for sharp photos in bright light shot at 1/500th of a second!

No way to get a different angle, either—just backlighting on top of it... 😕



Not wanting to make a scene, we move on to Pink Canyon (36.48000° -114.52611°), which isn’t even a hundred meters long.





After crossing the scenic road, we search for Stripped Rock (36.48069° -114.52653°), which we find easily.



Tim takes the chance to climb wherever he can!



A two-toned rock (we missed another cool one a few days ago, spotted in the shared travel journal...)



An unlisted arch that could be called Yellow Piano Rock (36.48118° -114.52723°)



We continue toward Kaolin Slot Canyon, discovered thanks to Pong’s travel journal a few days before our trip. A few pretty striations in the rock, with colors popping in the winter light.





The kids, who love all slot canyons, are thrilled to explore at least one—even if it’s just okay. But we’re not complaining!



At the canyon’s exit, we *could* continue on Prospect Trail, but the view doesn’t excite us. Instead, we head back to White Domes Trail on a wide, easy path.

Another photogenic arch (36.48567° -114.53489°),







and we end up at the White Domes trail parking lot.

In the parking lot, the kids think we’ve arrived and are surprised not to see the car! It’s only 400 meters away as the crow flies to the east, but the path to get there won’t be a walk in the park.

We start by climbing the hill and then come across a miniature arch with a pretty backdrop. 😇



The top of the rock (N36.48612° W114.53211°)



Photo of the parking lot to help spot the arch



View from the inside (wide angle helpful)



After a very steep descent that requires good grip, we move on to the last spots of the Seven Wonders loop (coordinates available on Roadtrippin):

Thunderstorm Arch (N36.48592° W114.53059°)





Fire Cave (N36.48625° W114.52992°)

I’m not exactly sure what Fire Cave is, so I’ll just stick with this photo. To get THE shot, we would’ve had to hug the wall... (see Pong’s travel journal for more details)

Crazy Hill (N36.48517° W114.52975°)



What’s striking about this little State Park is the diversity of colors just a few meters apart!



In the end, we spent 3.5 hours taking our time on this gorgeous loop. No regrets about skipping Racetrack Playa! 😇

Before starting our second loop in the area near the two campgrounds, we first make a detour to Fire Canyon Arch (N36.45131° W114.51075°), which we missed three years ago due to excessive heat—just like most of the spots we visited this morning.

Everyone’s searching...



This is clearly one of my favorite arches thanks to the mix of colors around it.





We also stopped by the Visitor Center, which was really nice, with

Elvis, a "Gopher Snake"



and Peanut, a "California Kingsnake"



What a sad life... 🏴‍☠️

Then, we headed to Atlatl Campground to explore the loop, with four spots in particular—two well-known ones and two others I discovered thanks to Pong (Arch Rock and Pagoda Arch).

Going around the loop counterclockwise, we gradually discover:

Arch Rock (N36.42184° W114.55454°)



the well-known Piano Rock (N36.41931° W114.55952°)



Pagoda Arch (N36.41417° W114.55667°),



hard to find because it’s a small arch at the top of a big rock. It’s better to know what you’re looking for, or you might miss it... Check out the Pong’s travel journal for more details

And finally, Windstone Arch (N36.41246° W114.55399°) Here’s the rock in question



and when you squeeze inside, this is what it looks like!



A group of 12 noisy Chinese tourists was wandering around, and we made sure not to go inside the rock while they were in sight—didn’t want them all showing up here!

This rock strangely resembles an animal...



These aren’t the only spots. Around Windstone Arch, we saw tons of curiosities, nooks, and mini-arches... You could spend a lot of time here. 😉

I even left you a note on your blog!

If you’ve read my blog, then you already have a little idea.😛 The blog doesn’t notify me when someone leaves a comment. Which page did you leave it on?

I’m digging into Bolivia and the NOA (Northwest Argentina) for 2 trips because the border crossings seem too complicated.

Why complicated? From what I remember, Imbex in Bolivia allows its vehicles to cross into Chile and Argentina. On the other hand, Chilean and Argentine rental companies don’t allow their vehicles to go into Bolivia.

You’ll need way more than 2 trips for these regions!!😛

hello Guillaume

I’ve been following you with pleasure and amusement (you’re truly one-of-a-kind, especially the younger ones), ... but also with interest. Actually, I’ve never managed to complete the full loop of the Boucle des 7 Merveilles 😕. Sometimes it was my GPS that failed me (and I ended up lost in a small canyon—really stunning, but not the right one), other times I started too late and got caught by sunset (I knew the end of the day was the best time for this hike, but there are limits). However, I’m planning to do it again next May, and more seriously this time. So your route interests me (DM to follow). It’s true that all those little arches that stand out are absolutely gorgeous—you see them everywhere. And with the coordinates you provided, I’ll have no trouble finding the ones you mentioned. I’ll also need to revisit Thibaud’s blog (ITAT 😉).

On another note, I see that Diamina (😉) has you looking into the Sud Lipez and Uyuni. It’s true that it’s one of the most beautiful places on the planet. But it’s also one of the harshest. It gets VERY cold at night, and the lack of sleep at those altitudes (often between 4,000 and 5,000m) is tough for many people (myself included). The nights are only perfect for stargazing. During the day, though, it’s magical!

Keep up the good work. Jean-Pierre 3.14

Anyway, your post proves you’re really paying attention when you read 😮!

When the text is well-written and enjoyable to read, it’s only natural. 😉

In 2020, our hearts wavered between Namibia and northwestern Argentina. And some spots in NW Argentina look a lot like the Southwest 😛!

If it’s to see the same thing, just head to Namibia instead. 😇 You’ll have vast open spaces all to yourself, stunning and varied landscapes, and animals galore! It’s even overwhelming at times—can’t snap a giraffe or an oryx without a lion or elephant photobombing your shot! 😏

You’ll see, I’ll end up relaxed!!! 😄

Yeah, -2°C in the morning at VoF stings a bit! It’s funny seeing you all bundled up in fleeces when, just five months earlier, I would’ve happily walked under a continuous stream of water. Actually, sticking our heads under the tap at VC did us a world of good!

we end up photographing the surroundings instead, waiting for the site to ourselves. Minutes pass, but they don’t budge... We finally head to Fire Wave, the famous wave. But the American, not content with having the place to himself, decides it’s not enough and even sets up his tripod right in the middle of the wave. We wait a little, then a lot—I stare at the guy, hoping he’ll get the hint that he doesn’t have an exclusivity contract! No luck, he takes his time 😠... Everyone knows a tripod is mandatory for a sharp photo in such bright light at 1/500th of a second!

Didn’t you try the old “Hey buddy... I think there’s some shady guy lurking around your pickup” trick? 😏

No way to get any other view, with the backlighting on top... 😕

Come on, to cheer you up—even if it’s not taken at the best time:

Not wanting to get worked up,

Some well-deserved punches are definitely getting lost here! 😠

What’s striking about this little State Park is the diversity of colors just a few meters apart!

It’s absolutely gorgeous! Rainbow Vista viewpoint lives up to its name!

The blog doesn’t notify me when someone leaves a comment. Which page did you post it on?

I don’t remember, I’ll have to look it up...

I think Imbex in Bolivia allows their vehicles to cross into Chile and Argentina. However, Chilean and Argentinian rental companies don’t allow their vehicles to go into Bolivia.

That’s exactly the issue... Flights from France to La Paz are longer and way more expensive than those to Buenos Aires or Santiago. I was hoping to fly into Argentina or Chile and then cross into Bolivia, but that seems impossible. If we book the flight to La Paz, we’ll just spend the 3 weeks there without leaving Bolivia 😉, especially since we’ll already have to make some tough choices!

Good evening Jean-Pierre, I just edited yesterday's post by adding 2-3 GPS points, including the one above the parking lot. I was checking my actual track with all the recorded waypoints and just realized we passed within 20 meters of Crazy Hill without seeing it . The photos I posted were taken right next to it, but they don’t match Pong’s!! So frustrating... 😕 Anyway, the GPS point I gave is correct—it’s just me who can’t verify it on a GPS... MP to follow.

Sud Lipez and Uyuni. It’s true that it’s one of the most beautiful places on the planet. But it’s also one of the harshest. It gets VERY cold at night, and it’s even harder because sleeping at those altitudes (often between 4,000 and 5,000 meters) isn’t easy for many people.

Yes, even just in photos, the landscapes are amazing!! In the middle of winter, we might miss the pink flamingos at Laguna Colorada and other wildlife. Instead, we’ll have to deal with extreme cold... but we don’t have a choice with the dates. We’ll need to invest in -20°C comfort sleeping bags to be safe, knowing that temperatures can drop to -15/-25°C above 4,000 meters, and they don’t have heating due to a lack of wood...

In 2020, we were torn between Namibia and northwest Argentina. And some spots in NW Argentina look a lot like the Southwest 😛!

If it’s to see the same thing, you’d be better off heading to Namibia instead. 😇

Both destinations, along with Bolivia, are on the shortlist for trips outside the American West. But every 2-3 years, I need my fix of the West!!

5 months ago, I would’ve gladly walked under a continuous water spray.

I can totally picture it: in July 2015, Laetitia actually collapsed on the way back to the car from heat exhaustion—even though the hike was only 4 km. We skipped the whole Crazy Hill, Thunderstorm Arch area, etc. A quick blast of AC, and she was good to go again 😏!

Come on, to cheer you up, even if it’s not taken at the best time



I managed to get a shot like that in 2015. That’s why I didn’t linger—knowing the best time is at sunset.

Hey Guillaume,

-15°, -20°, -25°: you’re selling a dream here… didn’t I read somewhere that Laetitia gets cold easily? Looks like there’ll be more negotiating on the agenda ;)😉😏

Vinciane

(End of the day at VOF) Near Pagoda Arch, we came across a herd of bighorns that didn’t seem very wild. Good for us—finally a chance to photograph them up close!





They might even be sedentary, since I’ve seen photos of the same group in the shared travel journal...





Before leaving VOF, we stop at Elephant Rock for the traditional photo.



To save energy for tomorrow’s big day at White Domes, I decide to skip Pretzel Arch, which requires nearly 3 km of walking.

Instead, we head toward Lake Mead. Originally, I’d planned to dip my feet in, at least up to my knees, but both lake access points I’d spotted on maps.me are closed 🤪!

Oh well, we continue on toward St. George.



Along the way, we lose an hour, so we don’t arrive in town until after 3 PM. With early sunsets and losing an hour, we’ll barely have time to do much this afternoon...

We didn’t book anything in advance since we’d originally planned to spend an extra day in Death Valley. We stop at the Coronado Inn, located downtown, to get a room, then rush to arrive just before 4 PM at Chuck Arama. At 3:50 PM, we pay the discounted lunch rate—by 4:10 PM, it’s dinner!

We’ve got our little routines there. The kids are over the moon 😇!! Imagine their faces after 3 nights of camping in *very* basic conditions and meals of pasta or veggies—this is paradise for them! They went back for seconds (or thirds) and cleaned their plates every time.

While we eat, we’re already picturing ourselves showering—and for some of us, rinsing off the sand still left from the sandstorm in Death Valley 😏! We don’t need much to be happy! 😎

After the meal, we take a quick stroll downtown. The Mormon temple



The church across the street looks a bit worse for wear...



Then the kids burn off some energy at the square! No vortex, Cinder Cone, or Johnson Arch to kill time...





Back at the motel, the kids head for the shower while I use the Wi-Fi to check the weather forecast. Not great for the next two days—the White Domes hike will be under clouds 😕, with rain even expected by late afternoon. And for Thursday, heavy rain is forecast in the Zion or Kanab area 🏴‍☠️.

I turn on my laptop to log into my Free account and finally activate the international option. No luck... Lost in thought, I barely hear Maxime telling me the shower in this room is weird because the curtain is on the *outside*...

Half an hour later, the three kids are in pajamas, resting on their beds. When I go into the bathroom, I nearly slip and fall—it’s a swimming pool in there! Water *everywhere*! 🤪

- What on earth did you three do?!? - Maxime: Dad, we *told* you the curtain was special and outside the tub! So when we showered, we got water everywhere—it’s not our fault...

And then I realize what they’d said earlier. I grab the curtain, lift it, and put it inside the shower, then ask if they think it might work better that way?!!

- Out of the three of you, not one had the bright idea to put the curtain *inside* the tub??? They burst out laughing, realizing their mistake, while I scold them and lay out all the towels to soak up the water. Oh, kids!

Night: At this motel, we had really hot water in the shower with great pressure (even if the curtains were odd), and two big beds! After 5 nights without a proper mattress, we’re thrilled to enjoy some cozy beds. The rest is just details...

Summary: Valley of Fire is a *must*—praised by so many for good reason! I’d made VOF a priority for this winter trip, and it delivered!

Winter is the ideal season for a full visit to the park. But even in spring, it’s totally doable—the 7 Wonders hike in its long version (via Kaolin Slot Canyon) is only 6 km. Just avoid the hottest hours, aiming to reach Fire Wave for sunset. A GPS is a must, otherwise you risk wasting time and energy searching for all these spots. But even without one, you can easily find Fire Wave (marked trail), Pink Canyon, cross the road, then rely on luck to stumble upon one of the arches scattered along the way back to the parking lot (no risk since you can see the road regularly).

Yes, even just in photos, the landscapes are fabulous!! In the dead of winter, you might miss the pink flamingos of Laguna Colorada and other animals. Instead, you’ll get extreme cold... but we don’t have a choice with the dates.

Not at all!!!! We went there in the dead of winter, and the pink flamingos were plentiful, both in Bolivia and Chile... As for extreme cold, it’s still not Siberia.... No need to exaggerate... During the day, temperatures are around 0°C: it’s actually pleasant, you know. That’s if there’s no wind!!!😉 The wind can make things feel a lot more... freezing!!!!😏 True, at night... well, you’re really invigorated... but I think it’s nice. During my trip through the Andes in 2012, I chose August to avoid the coldest period... As someone from Martinique, I survived, so you, who live in a temperate climate, should be fine.

voyageforum.com/...st=5595690;a=5595690

And the sky there in winter is divine!!!

Hi there, Your post is so pleasant to read—smooth and well-written! 🙂 I think I’ll take about the same amount of time, around 3.5 hours, for a relaxed loop when we’re there in mid-September 2020 or 2021. We’ll start right when the park opens in the morning, hoping it won’t get too hot by the end. 🤪

As for extreme cold, it's not Siberia after all... No need to exaggerate... During the day, temperatures are around 0°C: it's actually pleasant. That is, if there's no wind!!!😉

Last night, I told Laetitia, who’s really sensitive to the cold 🤪, that it would be a nice 5°C during the day!! Let’s just say this conversation between us never happened 😏...

The wind can make things feel a lot more... freezing!!!!😏

When the time comes, I’ll just tell her I had no idea 😛!!! Don’t forget hats, gloves, scarves, and a windproof parka! Anyway, these incredible landscapes make us dream as we look at your photos, cozied up under our duvet...

Hey there,

In 2020, we were torn between Namibia and northwestern Argentina. And some spots in northwestern Argentina look a lot like the Southwest 😛!

If you want to see the same thing, just go to Namibia instead. 😇

"Some" is the key word here!!

Truth is, there are plenty of unique spots: the Campo de Piedra and the Salar de Antofalla in the Argentine Puna, the Salar de Uyuni, the Dalí Desert, and the colorful lagoons in southern Lípez...🤪

I could keep going with the list!

Last night, I sold a nice 5°C daytime slot to Laetitia, who’s super sensitive to the cold !! Let’s just say this conversation between us never happened ...

It *was* true in the afternoon.

Don’t forget your beanie, gloves, scarves, and a windproof parka!

Oh yeah! The wind and the dust it carries are definitely something to watch out for!!

Anyway, these incredible landscapes make us dream, looking at your photos while we’re cozied up warm under our duvet...

With time, we forget a lot of the little inconveniences we ran into! All that’s left are the extraordinary things we saw and experienced!

Hey Guillaume,

I can just picture it: back in July 2015, Laetitia was completely wiped out by the time we got back to the car because of the heat—even though the hike was only 4 km. We skipped the whole Crazy Hill and Thunderstorm Arch area. A little AC, and she was good to go again 😏!

Same with my other half on an even shorter distance. Hard to say if women just have a harder time regulating body temperature...😇

They had to go back for seconds—three times—and cleaned their plates every time.

No choice but to add "underfeeding growing kids" to the already long list of charges. 😉

The church across the street took a bit of a beating...



Recent flyover by a 737 MAX? 😄

- What on earth did you three do?!? - Maxime: Dad, we *did* tell you the curtain was special and it was outside the bathtub! So when we took a shower, we got water everywhere—it’s not our fault...

And that’s when I realized what they’d told me earlier. I picked up the curtain, tucked it inside the shower, and asked if they thought it might work better that way?!!

😏😏😏

- Out of the three of them, not one had the bright idea to put the curtain *inside* the bathtub???

Come on, admit it—at home, they’re washing up with baby wipes too 😏

Hi Diamina,

Honestly, there are so many unique spots: the Campo de Piedra and the Salar de Antofalla in the Argentine Puna, the Salar de Uyuni, the Dalí Desert, and the colorful lagoons in the southern Lipez region...🤪

No worries, I can just imagine how amazing it must be. 🙂 I’ll check out your travel journal to see for myself.[;]

I then start negotiating (or rather, begging) with my better half. The kids quickly catch on that there’s a chance we might leave, and they’re thrilled! She finally gives her consent to make the kids happy 😎. I rush to check that our ESTAs are still valid, and 48 hours later, I’ve got the tickets in hand 😎😎. Except that 5 days later, Laetitia changes her mind, and the Yes turns back into a No. No way we’re going without her to her favorite country!!

Oh crap 🤪! I’m forced to tell her I’ve already bought the four tickets (without bringing it up again, of course—a Yes is a Yes, right?) and that I can’t go back because the tickets are non-refundable... Apparently, with women, some Yeses really mean Yes, but others actually mean, « I said Yes out of principle, but I wasn’t on board, and I never thought you’d have the nerve to buy the tickets without talking to me first!! » I didn’t know that 🤪!

Us guys, we’re way more straightforward—pretty binary, even monetary... Yes means yes! And No means yes too 😏!! Anyway, it’s in this lovely family atmosphere that I open a thread to start planning, and I’d like to thank Trois14 and Bluemesa for their help. Following Trois14’s advice, I book 5 nights in a motel in the St. George-Page area at some amazing rates—around $35–40 a night...

Whether you’re a man or a woman, we all have our personalities... but either way, life as a couple is truly the art of negotiation and compromise... 🙂 So happy to follow your winter adventure... and I totally get it—you need some serious adaptability, and good tips are priceless!!!