On the Silk Road: Chronicles of a Sixty-Something Traveling Completely Independently (page 4 of 4)

Thanks for this really interesting account. A few detailed remarks about Kashgar:

all the signage is in Chinese and Arabic

More precisely, in Chinese and Uyghur, a Turkic language that uses the Arabic alphabet (just like Turkish used to)

the city center has been well preserved

No, the original city center was completely destroyed between 2009 and 2011, and a pastiche was rebuilt afterward on a smaller area. Back then, I walked through hectares of ruins—every dwelling had been methodically gutted by excavators to make them uninhabitable and clear out those neighborhoods of their population.

Totally agree with Marathon. How can you call it a city center when there’s only one street... In 2013, I wrote: Nearby, an undestroyed part of old Kashgar undergoing "tourist facelifting"—acid-bright colors. Many artisans, including musical instrument makers, hatters, tinsmiths, and dozens of teahouses. Zero tourists, whether European or Chinese. https://www.naruwan.fr/chine/xinjiang-2013/

The "theater-set downtown" has now expanded to several streets.

Personally, I wasn’t too "shocked" by the demolition and reconstruction in Kashgar. The Chinese have done much worse elsewhere. What really struck me was the lack of life—there’s hardly anyone around...

Thanks to everyone for all the info and photos! I traveled the Silk Road by train from Beijing to Urumqi in July 2017. I wanted to go all the way to Kashgar, but the train duration and, especially, the reports about the destruction of the old town discouraged me. And given what I experienced in Xinjiang, I don’t regret not going further. In Xining already, during the visit to the Great Mosque, I noticed that all the shops had riot shields (like the French CRS) and batons, probably in case of protests, even though we weren’t even in Xinjiang yet. In Turpan, the night market was closed, one of the Uyghur restaurants where we’d eaten was depressing and as empty as could be, and our day guide took us through a street where, for nearly 1 km, identical brick houses were under construction. At least the government was trying to give them a Uyghur-inspired style, but the total lack of individuality was shocking. Finally, in Urumqi, the police presence, cameras everywhere, and especially the patriotic propaganda broadcast through loudspeakers in some streets really finished me off.

Too bad, because I loved Dunhuang and the rest of my trip in China. I hope one day to return to China and this time head back to France by train via Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Iran, and Turkey—but that’s not happening anytime soon!

Personally, I wasn't too "shocked" by the demolition-reconstruction of Kashgar.

Same here.

What shocked me was the lack of life: there's practically no one around...

On the main "tourist" street of Kashgar's new old town, I was struck by the density of Chinese flags—displayed on the facade of every house. I don’t recall seeing anything like it during my other stops in Xinjiang, even in the Uyghur part of Kuqa.

On top of that, the mass of Han tourists crowding the night market for a "big feast." Hardly a square meter was free. The only Uyghurs were the servers at the various stalls. I’ll add that there were patrols of three uniformed police officers every 100 meters or less.

I preferred to eat a traditional *laghman* in a small eatery north of the grand mosque. I was the only tourist there among Uyghur aksakals ("white beards," meaning the elders in Central Asia).

Fabrice

On the main "tourist" street of Kashgar’s new old town, I was struck by the density of Chinese flags—every single house had one on its facade.

Classic Chinese move. It’s like this in Tibet, even in the tiniest villages, and in Inner Mongolia. Anywhere there’s—or could be—even a hint of doubt (among a few non-Chinese minds) about China’s legitimacy to be there, they slap their flag *everywhere* in this giant fuck off display.

I was well aware of it, but in Kashgar, it went far beyond what I’d seen in the rest of Xinjiang, including Tashkorgan, Kuqa, Hotan, and Turfan (not a single Chinese flag in the Uyghur quarter leading to the Enim Minaret).

The same was true in Longwu / Tongren (Qinghai), where a distinctly Tibetan neighborhood remains right next to the great gonpa.

In Kashgar, the main tourist street was literally decked out for September 18th. I’d never seen anything like it in any other country.

Trying too hard to make a statement had the opposite effect. It struck me as heavy-handed, even if it was aimed at Han tourists.

Fabrice

On the main "tourist" street of Kashgar’s new old town, I was struck by the density of Chinese flags—displayed on the facade of every single house.

Illustrated by the photo :) :

The night market left me with an excellent memory. So many dishes I’d never tried before, most of them really tasty.

Hi Samuel,

Your photo matches what I saw. However, the main street was much livelier. Maybe a question of time or season. When was your photo taken?

Fabrice

Your photo matches what I saw. However, the main street was much livelier. Maybe a question of time or season. When was your photo taken?

It was late September, but I don’t remember the time—it was probably in the morning.

It was late September, though I don’t remember the exact time—probably morning.

Late September, same as me. Though I explored the "old town" on foot in the afternoon and evening.

When I applied for my visa in August 2018, I’d read in a Chinese magazine that Xinjiang was promoted as an exotic destination (for Han tourists). The appeal for Han travelers? A culturally immersive experience, very safe, with Mandarin speakers (among younger generations, not so much with the older bazaar merchants), and all without leaving China.

That might explain the heavy crowds I saw there in September 2018. At the very start of the month, trains leaving Kashgar were packed, mostly with students heading home for the new university term. By late September, organized groups of retirees made up the majority.

"Long noses" (foreigners) were *very* rare.

Fabrice

Great chronicle! A bit harsh with "the portrait of a standard package-tour traveler," but pretty realistic! There’s a difference between a traveler and a tourist. Best regards, Robert

The authentic tale of a clichéd and narcissistic Western perspective. What a moralizing and biased account!

The authentic tale of the clichéd and narcissistic Western gaze. What a moralizing and biased account!

Good evening,

Do you have a more interesting story to share about this destination, you who are posting here for the first time?