Off on an adventure to Java (and a bit of Bali) (page 5 of 8)

Day 10 (continued) No shops, no local minimarts, not even a Euromarché. Just homes and their residents going about their daily routines, barely affected by the regular sway of the train. A suspended moment. A privileged one...

Ah, the Euromarché in Tinqueux where I used to do my grocery shopping when I was a student!

Day 10 (continued) No shops, no local minimarts, not even an Euromarché. Just homes and their residents going about their daily routines, barely affected by the regular sway of the train. A suspended moment. A privileged one...

Ah, the Euromarché in Tinqueux where I used to do my grocery shopping when I was a student!

Oh yeah, that takes me back! 😛

Somewhere in the mysteries of fate, it was written that the second half of 2025 would see a surge of delightful, well-illustrated travel journals packed with fresh discoveries on VoyageForum.

As for Mr. Biboun, he still has the chance to introduce us to around 17,990 Indonesian islands—about 813 of which are inhabited. Quite the undertaking, as they say! !

It was written somewhere in the mysteries of fate that the second half of 2025 would see a surge of pleasant, well-illustrated, and detail-rich travel journals on VoyageForum.

As for Mr. Biboun, he still has the chance to show us around roughly 17,990 islands of Indonesia, about 813 of which are inhabited. A vast program, as they say!

and all by scooter!

Hi Franck, Always a pleasure to read about your adventures 😉, illustrated with such lovely photos. A top-notch travel journal. Thank youuuuuu! Michèle

It's happening! I'm working on the itinerary! 😛

Hi Michelle! Great to see you here! 😊

Why not by rollerblades or scooter?

Day 12 – August 21

Heading to remote spots, far from the well-trodden paths ignored by the despots of commercial-tourist guides and shunned by the "bobs" in Ricard shirts and socks-with-sandals—this often means great surprises, and yesterday was no exception. "Yes, young Padawan, go discover Tourcoing and you’ll see!" Except... stepping off the beaten track, away from signposted routes and standard info, can also lead to letdowns or even frustration. Want a concrete example with pictures? The truth is just around the corner...

Beyond the deserted beaches we explored yesterday, our goal in coming here was to cross the narrow strait separating Sendang Biru from the wild, uninhabited island of Pulau Sempu, where a 1.5-hour jungle hike leads to a saltwater inland lake in a paradise-like setting. That’s the idyllic description I got from a hush-hush tip on the dark web! But when we arrived at Sendang Biru’s port, reality hit differently. First off, no one in Sendang Biru is exactly fluent in English—or mime, for that matter. Just saying the island’s name got us a simple headshake from left to right. Back home, that’d be a bad sign, but here, 14,000 km from home, couldn’t it mean, "Go ahead, you clueless newbies, you’re in for a treat?" Well, after digging, insisting, and guessing, it *seems* like we *might* have understood that the island *could* be closed due to a supposed Covid-58 outbreak among red-headed macaques. But honestly, we’re not entirely sure we got it right... "Couldn’t you have just made an announcement on the official tourism ministry website?" Covid or not, our hiking shoes are left without their jungle. Disappointment, action, reaction! No time to waste—we hop on our trusty steed and head inland. Today wasn’t the plan, but we’re going full stunt mode: we’re chasing waterfalls!

And where we’re headed, my gut tells me there’ll be plenty to stretch our legs in lush nature! The two-hour ride to our first waterfall confirms it—fifty shades of green! Though, let’s be clear: when I say "magnificent road," I’m talking about the stunning landscapes, not the actual pavement... if there’s any left. Our scooter’s shocks and our vertebrae just formed an association: *The Anonymous Martyrs of Javanese Roads!*



Anyway, back to our waterfalls—we just parked the scooter at the empty lot of Srengenge Falls! Or should I say *the Srengenge Falls*, since it’s actually three cascades in a row, with the first two easily accessible via a marked trail. You see where this is going? Yep, it’s the third one—the biggest, the most beautiful, the wildest—that we’re after! But no matter how much we analyze the terrain or sniff around with our hiking shoes, we can’t figure out how to reach its base, 100 meters below. Time to play our last card: the waterfall maintenance crew *pretending* to work! Through a mix of sign language and sound effects, two of them volunteer to show us the way. And after a few dozen meters, I can confirm we’d *never* have found it—because this path? It doesn’t exist. Or at least, not anymore. Our impromptu guides hack through the overgrowth with machetes, carving a route down a steep slope where dangling vines are our only lifeline!





Let’s be real: I consider myself pretty comfortable in my aerodynamic hiking shoes, convinced they give me the superpower to go anywhere. But here? My superpowers are *nothing* compared to the magic flip-flops of our guides! Just as impressive as the third tier of the waterfall once we reach its base!





What a hike! Exhausting, intense, borderline dangerous... but what a sense of adventure! As Flo put it so well, it was meant to be. We couldn’t do Pulau Sempu, so we got Srengenge instead—totally unplanned! Big props to my Flo for keeping up and crushing this technical expedition without a peep! You’re my mini-warrior!

Day 12 (continued)

All that really worked up our appetite! A few kilometers later, we leave our ride with its babysitter to start a hike that’s well-known this time: the one descending into an impressive canyon to reach the waterfalls and caves of Goa Tetes and finally arrive at the famous and renowned Tumpak Sewu falls. And there... how can I even describe it... Nature definitely has an incredible talent. It has this way of serving up wonders spoonful by spoonful, day after day. And especially here, in Java! Because this so-called hike, my ancestors, it *slays*! It combines a physical challenge with its long descent and ascent in switchbacks through a Jurassic Park-like canyon, fun with a path following the footsteps soaked in the warm water of the Goa Tetes falls, and above all, pure awe with scenery worthy of the most beautiful water park! And that’s not even counting the grand finale—an explosion of unreal beauty when you reach the end of the canyon where the amphitheater of Tumpak Sewu awaits! You might think I’m lying if I tell you we got there at four in the afternoon, the time when all the tourists have already called it a day... The time when Flo and I found ourselves facing this raw beauty, completely alone! "Alright, maestro, you can cue up *Also sprach Zarathustra* by Strauss—the show will be perfect!" We stay there for long minutes, mesmerized by this enchanting scenery, by what is the most beautiful waterfall I’ve ever had the chance to feast my eyes on. Drawn like a moth to a streetlight, I even try to get as close as possible to the falls, which ultimately doesn’t let itself be tamed so easily. Here, it’s like Brittany without the *galettes-saucisse* on a stormy day! Gusts over 100 kilometers per hour and buckets of water thrown in your face to dissuade you from touching it! A brutal and powerful nature!











Speaking of which, I don’t think I’ve mentioned the muggy heat here yet? The humidity wraps around us and sticks like a second skin. It’d be nice if my sweat glands took a little break on the way back up the canyon! Luckily, I’m not the only one suffering—this time, I see Flo melting too. I’d love to give her a hug in solidarity, but no way—she’s way too sticky for that!!! Once the hike is over, we have no choice but to sip on a fresh coconut straight from the fridge to cool down. Yeah, I admit it, we’ve got the life we choose! And I’ve got to say, when mine is like this, it suits me just fine...

Day 13 – August 22

What’s a holiday? A holiday is about disconnecting and recharging your batteries. There are two teams when it comes to doing that. The first: those who put their bodies on standby, turning into couch potatoes in bed, on the sofa, at the beach, or by the pool. And then there’s the other team! The ones who empty their minds by creating memories, prioritizing action and thinking of nothing but what they’re discovering. From what you’ve read about us, you know we’re in the second camp! So as soon as our four eyes opened in our little cabin surrounded by greenery, we were ready to hit the road again, ready to make new memories, ready to set off in search of more wonders that Mother Nature might put in our path. And today, oh boy, is that path long, Dad—before we finally reach the little town of Cemoro Lawang. But since we don’t fix what isn’t broken, there’s no road trip without a pee break to stretch our legs and feast our eyes!

And our first stop is Kapas Biru! That little nickname probably doesn’t mean much to you. But here’s the thing—I’d bet my right hand that as soon as influencers and their Insta-obsessed buddies lay eyes on this gem, it’ll shoot straight to the top of the "places to be" list. The only thing holding it back right now is that you’ve got to work those thighs to get there. Sweaty hairdos and Botoxed foreheads don’t exactly mix well with the combo of heels and thongs up the butt, so the place hasn’t been overrun by them yet! So please, sign the petition at the bottom of the page to keep Kapas Biru the "property" of wanderers and fishermen for as long as possible! Yes, as weird as it sounds, there’s a fisherman right there, rod in hand, practically under the waterfall... All this to say that waterfalls may follow one after another, but they sure don’t look alike—except when it comes to the visual punches they pack!











And the youngest in the "Waterfalls" family isn’t about to lower the bar—far from it! The little sister of the bunch goes by the sweet name of Coban Sriti, which we can only admire from a panoramic viewpoint. Bam, pow, boom—knockout victory for the waterfalls, with a side of retinal detachment!

Day 13 (continued)

Tired of this cascading love affair, we head off to see somewhere else. Who’s ready to welcome us? Oh right, how about another volcano? Waterfalls, volcanoes... our hearts are torn... Off we go, three hours of "happy bum-bouncing" on the road voted the most potholed in all of Java by Franck and Flo themselves! But have you seen these landscapes?... Mamamia... how to go from tropical vegetation to alpine landscapes covered in onion fields..., how to go from a population of Indonesians to locals with Peruvian Cordillera faces... You couldn’t make it up! Just like you couldn’t make up that we’re putting grandpa and grandma to bed at 6 PM for a special night. See you tomorrow, if you want to know why...

These waterfalls are stunning... really want to do some long exposures 😍

These waterfalls are gorgeous... really want to do some long exposures 😊

To see the waterfalls? Or to read my travel journal? 😎

Those waterfalls are stunning... really want to do some long exposures 😍

To see the waterfalls? Or to read my travel journal? 😎

Both, of course! 😊😆

Day 14 - August 23, 2025

While for many, vacation means sleeping in, Flo and I find ourselves back on our scooter just three hours past midnight, the cool mountain and night air whipping our faces. You tell yourself that if we’re willingly putting ourselves through this, it must be worth its weight in sensory bliss, right? The main event, ladies and gentlemen, is none other than Mount Bromo—this legendary volcano that makes every budding traveler drool! In fact, if there’s just one must-see in Java, it’s this. And it’s not just us saying that—it’s what you’ll read everywhere about tourism in Java!

Almost everyone who bothers to make the trek here falls into line, following the same well-worn path as the rest, all in a neat row behind the guide dictating the rules—making you believe it’s the only way. They’re lying to you, ripping you off! But it works because almost everyone takes the easy route, signing up for one of those tours that shuttles you in a big, polluting 4x4 from your hotel at 3 AM to drop you off at THE official viewpoint to watch the sunrise over Bromo and its buddies, packed shoulder-to-shoulder with your fellow travelers. After that, trapped in a long, dusty convoy, the same 4x4 crosses the ash caldera to take you to the foot of the volcano so you can climb it—still all together, single file, like sheep. The tour ends with a return to your hotel by mid-morning. They pocket your cash, you get a thank-you smile, and that’s the end of the game! You can imagine why we’re on our scooter in the cold night—we didn’t put on our docile sheep costumes!

After traveling the world and making it this close to this wonder with our scooter in tow, we’re not about to stop now! Our plan is also to outflank the crowds and experience this as intimately as possible... While we wait for the sun to catch up, come closer so I can warm you up and share the strategy Flo and I cooked up...

First, as mentioned earlier, you’ve got to get there early to grab a "spot in the sun"—or rather, a spot for the sunrise over the massive caldera where Bromo stands alongside two other cones, Semeru and Batok. After a 20-minute scooter ride and an hour’s hike with headlamps, we set up camp between the two most accessible (and thus most crowded) viewpoints.

Following a path by the light of a small lamp under a stunning starry sky, not knowing exactly where we are or how long it’ll take to get there—it’s like having our eyes blindfolded during the journey so the surprise is total when daylight breaks... Once the sunrise curtain falls, we’ll let the herd head toward Bromo while we wander the now-deserted viewpoints. With our scooter, we’ll cross the caldera—but not to climb Bromo. At least, not yet! Our goal is the summit of Batok, which bizarrely no one seems to attempt. And only after the crowds have left Bromo will we descend Batok to finally reach Bromo’s crater, hoping to have it all to ourselves...









"So, Colonel Hannibal, did the plan work?" I love it when a plan comes together without a hitch... But wait, here it comes... As the light slowly breaks through, our eyes start to take in the insane landscape unfolding before us... First, vague shapes becoming clearer as the sky comes to life. How do you describe the wonder of the sunrise we’re witnessing? It’s absolutely breathtaking. Visual poetry... A true masterpiece, the kind only nature can deliver... As for our bet, it pays off—we start watching the 4x4 ballet shuttling the herd toward Bromo as the first sunrays pierce the sky. Even if it’s not for the same reasons, only a few Chinese Instagram influencers in skimpy outfits (in 10°C weather!) are stubbornly, like us, scouring every viewpoint. They all look the same, but each time, Daniel Balavoine’s words come to mind: "My God, it’s beautiful!" I’m talking about the landscape, of course—not the influencers... who, for the record, I find completely ridiculous...

Day 14 (continued)

After quite some time spent contemplating until our sinuses bled, we finally decide to abandon our perches and become part of the scenery. Since everyone was still crowded around the edge of Bromo, the tip of Batok naturally caught our pedestrian fancy—a pretext to give the Bromo groupies time to clear out, but also to get a unique view of it. I’d hardly seen or read anything like this online, except that the "performance" was legally allowed. Ouch, "performance"... That heavy word was spoken, and it managed to stir up some worry on Flo’s side. She hesitates, wavers, questions herself... To go... Not to go... Batok or not Batok... A bit like a porn actress for her first film with Rocco, she ultimately declines the invitation once she’s face-to-face with the beast’s size!



And she was right to do so! Because as soon as I started my "nuptial march" of the day with as much dignity as possible—which is to say, none—I realized the task ahead was going to be a tad tough. Very tough, in fact, since I had to make my way, with no marked path, along a steep ridge, through tall grass dotted with thorny bushes, all on loose ash terrain. Discounts, promotions, and card perks can’t be combined. Difficulties, on the other hand, can! To top it all off, the "vaginal flower" at the base of my spine was throwing a fit after all those hours of bumpy scooter rides. Translation: I was suffering big time! I’m no Mike Horn, and I tend to forget that! But would Mike Horn have gone all the way to the end? Probably, but we’ll never know... What’s certain is that I crossed the finish line mentally, exhausted but proud of the challenge I’d met!

Well, my imaginary audience at the summit cheered my performance... only for it to be quickly tarnished by a piece of info I’d missed: There *is* a marked trail to the top of Batok! It’s just on the other side of the mountain from where I went... To hell with glory—I can at least brag about having opened a new, more complicated route to the top of Mount Batok!



This little adventurous detour had the merit of warming up my thighs. But most importantly—and this was the intended effect—it let me take the Bromo’s solo ascent staircase from the ghetto at the perfect time. At 9 AM, the crater’s edge was packed. By 11 AM, it was just Franck and Flo!!! And best of all, that pesky guard who’s been forcing tourists to stick to a 100-meter safety strip for the past few months was nowhere to be seen.



Now we had the entire narrow trail along the crater’s edge to ourselves, narrowing as we went, offering jaw-dropping views of the volcano’s gaping maw, where sulfurous fumes tickled our nostrils! On one side, a steep drop into the crater’s heart. On the other, a steep slope down the volcano’s flank. Everything screamed inhospitality. We were Frodo Baggins discovering Mordor! In other words, Daniel: *God, it’s beautiful!!* One of the most spectacularly spectacular volcanic sights we’ve ever seen. And also... don’t trip while walking... don’t trip while walking... don’t trip while walking...





As for the powerful rumbling accompanying us—too bad you can’t hear it like we did... It was, of course, Bromo’s gaping mouth in full airplane-engine mode. Every now and then, the beast would stop roaring for ten to twenty seconds, probably to digest a tourist before revving up again. It was as fascinating as it was terrifying, especially knowing it suddenly erupted in 2015, forcing volcanologists to seal off the entire area...









So, did we love our Bromo experience? No... We *loved* it, absolutely *kiffed* it! I think it’s obviously thanks to the unreal beauty of the place, but also largely due to our strategy, which paid off by letting us share an intimate moment with this legend. And I’ll add perfect weather to the recipe for the full list of ingredients for a flawless visit!

Hey ho, hey ho, we’re heading back from Bromo! Yep, it’s time to leave Bromo in the rearview mirror and return to Malang to wrap up this Javanese scooter road trip. What an epic! So many adventures! So many landscapes! So many smiles! So many potholes and speed bumps! But careful—our Indonesian wanderings are far from over! We’re taking the train from Malang later this afternoon to head even farther east. For the record, in our compartment, we were "doodled on" by a sweet Indonesian student also heading to Banyuwangi, just like us. Banyuwangi? What for?... You’ll see tonight, impatient one..

Absolutely, "Wow, it's so beautiful!" and no doubt even more so in person than in photos!

I can confirm, Franck, Bromo is absolutely stunning. Your sunrise photo is gorgeous—we weren’t so lucky, everything was covered in mist 😅. On the other hand, we climbed Bromo the day before since our accommodation was right next to it. We walked there directly... and had the place all to ourselves 😊. Yeah, it had erupted in 2015. We were there in 2016, and it was still rumbling quite a bit 😨.

Absolutely, "Wow, it's so beautiful!" and no doubt even more so in person than in photos!

I can confirm that the emotion and atmosphere there can't be captured in just a few photos—the limit on VF doesn’t do it justice...