CAPE VERDE 2025: 3 weeks, 4 islands. (page 5 of 7)

Our ferry is at 4 PM, and the transfer from Ponta do Sol will be by aluguer to Porto Novo for another smooth crossing and another night in Mindelo. The terrace of our hotel in Mindelo for this transfer night—doesn’t it remind you of something? 😄

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The next day, a final early-morning flight to discover our 4th island: Sal.

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Part 4: Sal Island

The deal was for my girlfriend to relax (she’s way less resilient than I am 😄), so I’d planned a full week of lazing around in Santa Maria on Sal Island. To show you my boundless love, because that’s really not our usual style.



But after chatting with Lenny (his girlfriend lives on Sal), some online research, and especially that feeling of only scratching the surface of Santiago, we decided a few days ago: We’ll cut it to 4 nights here and 3 nights on Santiago before heading home. My lucky star was with me—I found a flight available on the perfect day for just 17 € extra per person.

And when I say my lucky star was shining, it’s because the moment we set foot on Sal—in the airport, actually—we didn’t like it...

First, because the crowd changed: English, German, Portuguese, French (lots of them)—we’d entered a different world! Where are the locals?

Next, because the currency changed: They’re barely interested in escudos here... Everything’s discussed and paid in €, with an exchange rate of 100 to 1, which is easy but wrong. Oh, and prices have skyrocketed too, though not enough—because everything here is designed for consumption...

Finally, as we’ll see later, if São Vicente was a pebble, then Sal is an island shaved by the wind and sand, where only resorts emerge. Okay, I’m exaggerating a little, but when you come here from the Paul Valley, it’s a shock!

A positive point? Yes—the residence I found, a peaceful haven amid the hustle of downtown. A small complex with a pool, facing the sea, a bit off the beaten path. The manager who welcomes us, a pure Cape Verdean, is super nice. Plus, there’s a bakery/tea salon on the ground floor that makes amazing croissants—so it’ll do!



So, 4 days of relaxation: reading, pool time, beach when the sea isn’t too rough, and walks along the shore. In the evenings, we’ll stroll through downtown—a wide pedestrian avenue lined with souvenir shops, touristy restaurants, and bars competing with decibels...





Even Césaria was fed up...

You know me—I’m naturally curious, so I decide to explore the island anyway. Not like most tourists we see passing by the residence every morning: a swarm of quads, buggies, 4x4s, minibuses, even mountain bikes, all heading to the same places in the same direction.



But on my own terms, once I found (for 100 € a day!!) my own quad.



We’ll still hit the island’s unavoidable tourist spots: - Kite Beach and the Maria salt flats



- Pedra de Lume Salt Flats: In the crater of an ancient volcano, these abandoned, flooded salt flats let you float like in the Dead Sea. Guaranteed effect!



- Blue Eye: A hole in the rock where the morning sun lights up the water, creating a spectacular blue effect. Don’t visit in the late afternoon like we did!



- Shark Bay: A beach where lemon sharks are so well-fed they won’t nibble your toes. But the real sharks are the guides rushing at groups to take you five meters away (for 5 €, of course). So crowded they didn’t even notice us...



- Palmeira, Espargos, and Murdeira: Three fishing villages, a bit more authentic—if you ignore the huge terraces of overpriced tourist restaurants...

Okay, I’m being a little unfair—we still had a great day, especially on the trails of Serra Negra where I could let my vehicle loose (my wife didn’t love it as much...).



We’ll leave this island without regret—it doesn’t reflect Cape Verde or my idea of a vacation, in my opinion.



But there’s something for everyone, and like colors, tastes aren’t up for debate. If we’d known, we wouldn’t have come 😅



For the rest live, it’s here: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10793065;a=10793065

The terrace of our hotel in Mindelo for this transfer night; doesn’t it remind you of anything?😄



Oh yeah! A little Moroccan vibe ;)

I’m noting to avoid Sal! 🤪

Even Cesária got fed up with it... Great stuff, Bruno! 🤙

Thanks for your honest take on your impressions. But I thought everyone goes to Sal for the "most beautiful beaches in the country"! Where are they?

As you said, this is just my personal take 😊 And indeed, the beaches around Santa Maria are huge and stunning—kilometers of fine sand dotted with resorts.

Oh, thanks Bruno! I just checked on Google Sat, and now I know where I won’t be going 😄.

When you’re not a fan of crowds, that line of massive resorts is kinda scary 😱. And the rest just looks like a pile of sand from up there 😅.

Have a great day

True, Bruno, Sal Island isn’t particularly appealing—there are so many other more attractive islands to explore in Cape Verde! 😊

A positive point? Yes, the residence I found, a peaceful haven away from the hustle and bustle of the city center. A small residence with a pool, facing the sea, a bit secluded.

We have to go through it. I think one day will be enough... (maybe 2 to be sure we don’t miss the flight?). We have our return flight Sal / Marseille. Where is your residence? What’s it called?

A positive point? Yes, the residence I found—a peaceful haven away from the hustle and bustle of the city center. A small residence with a pool, facing the sea, a bit secluded.

We have to go through it. I think one day will be enough... (maybe 2 to be sure we don’t miss the flight?). We have our return flight Sal / Marseille. Where is your residence? What’s it called?

You can never say it enough—when it comes to transfers in Cape Verde, plan generously.

The residence is called Leme Bedge, albis harena, Rua 5 agosto in Santa Maria, across from the Columbus restaurant (meh, by the way), on Leme Beach. On Booking.com, there are several apartments available, but unfortunately, ours is only available for a minimum of 4 nights.

Thanks for the info—it was just to test the waters since I rarely book anything in advance. The eastern part of the island seems quieter, but it’s so ugly! Well, that’s just my taste. Too bad I’m a bit too old to take up kite surfing now! 😉

Are there beaches on the west side and others in the northeast—did you go there?

Same in November after the rainy season...

Love the contrast! Thanks Marie. When exactly is the rainy season, and what’s it like? More like short heavy downpours or light rain that drags on for days?

Hi Christelle, Basically, it’s between August and October. It really depends on the year and the area. This year, the rains were pretty localized: heavy in some valleys, almost nothing around Ponta do Sol... and of course, storm Erin in São Vicente and near Porto Novo.😐 But there are years with steady light drizzle, and others with heavy downpours. But it usually doesn’t last too long. On the other hand, things get slippery fast, and it can quickly cause damage to paths, roads, and rockfalls. So be careful.

The same in November after the rainy season...



It’s really the same but better!

Totally!!!![;]

I’d note to avoid Sal!

Hi there, I might not go that far. You just need to know why you're going. I had a lot of preconceptions, but I spent a week there and really enjoyed it. (For context: I live in Cape Verde, and it was our vacation week.) But I was pleasantly surprised. Maybe we were also slightly off-season at the end of September? Sure, everything Montagnard says is true, but we rented an apartment, were self-sufficient, cooked for ourselves, went fishing... in short, we managed to stay a bit outside the tourist flow. 😉 But it’s true that it’s not the most authentic of the Cape Verde islands. That said, each island has its own mark, its "vibe," its style, its atmosphere, different Cape Verdeans, different mentalities, and even a different Creole; but it’s this mix and blend that makes "THE" Cape Verde. Because otherwise, each island could almost be its own little country—they’re that varied! So to really get to know Cape Verde, you’ve got to see a bit of everything! 😎

A positive point? Yes, the residence I found—a peaceful haven away from the hustle and bustle of the city center. A small residence with a pool, facing the sea, a little off the beaten path.

We have to stop there. I think one day will be enough... (maybe 2, just to be sure we don’t miss our flight?). We’ve got our return flight Sal / Marseille. Where’s your residence? What’s it called?

Hi! Yes, always plan a little buffer time in Cape Verde for flights! ;O)))

Which quiet-ish beach would you recommend? One more little question about Santo Antão... I’ve planned (among other things) a loop hike to Ribeira dos Patas / Cha de Morte. After that, I’m thinking of spending a day or two in Tarrafal. Do you think I’ll have to go back to Porto Novo to catch an aluguer to Tarrafal, or is it possible to ask my host the day before to find a ride that goes straight there without stopping back in Porto Novo?

Hi Marie, You really stand up for your adopted country, and that’s totally understandable. But when you leave Ponta do Sol or even Mindelo and step into Santa Maria, the contrast is pretty harsh! Especially since we were there in mid-July—not even peak season…

That said, it’s just my take, and I get that there’s something for everyone. But I’ll stick with my observation: if your timing’s right, **avoid Sal**.

Yes, if you're planning to go to Tarrafal by shared transport, you’ll have to go back through Porto Novo. And in that case, you should spend at least two nights there to make it worth it since you’ll arrive around 12-1 PM. The shared rides leave at 6 AM in the morning, so at least two nights to have at least one full day there. Otherwise, if you go private, of course, you can do whatever you want!!! But it’ll cost ya! From Ribeira das Patas to Tarrafal, I think it’s around 80-100 €.

Do all Aluguer depart from Porto Novo? Are there no intermediate stops? If it's 80 or 100 € for a private ride from Ribeira das Patas to Tarrafal, would it be cheaper to go from Ribeira das Patas to Porto Novo? PS: On the island of Sal, are there any beaches quieter (more "natural") than Santa Maria’s?

Do all Aluguers leave from Porto Novo? Are there no intermediate stops? If it's 80 or 100 euros for a private ride from Ribeira das Patas to Tarrafal, would going from Ribeira das Patas to Porto Novo be cheaper? PS: On the island of Sal, are there any beaches quieter (more "natural") than Santa Maria?

Most shared rides to "distant" destinations leave from Porto Novo after the ferries arrive and once everyone has done their shopping, etc. And in the end, from the crossroads that leads to Tarrafal and Porto Novo, it’s not that far.

There aren’t really any official stops, and you can wave your hand anywhere on the side of the road, EXCEPT: - They’re often full and packed in Porto Novo, so it’s hard to find a spot on the spot. Easier to let the drivers know and "book" your seat with them. - It might make you wait a while on the side of the road.

It’s indeed cheaper to go privately from Ribeira das Patas to Porto Novo (around 30-40 euros), but you can also take a shared ride since they head down to PN in the morning to take people to the ferry and the city. Just ask your accommodation.

That’s exactly what I just did with my sister in the opposite direction. We were coming from Tarrafal and wanted to go to Alto Mira. We took the shared ride from Tarrafal to PN, then another one from PN to Alto Mira. Easy-peasy and cheaper. Sure, you’ll arrive later than if you take a private ride at your convenience, but hey, it’s vacation time! ;O)

I’m not the expert on Sal’s beaches. Marie