Some trips are born twice - Peru April - May 2025 (page 5 of 13)

Saturday, April 26

The alarm goes off early this morning. At 7:30 AM, we meet up for breakfast. Flavia has made delicious pancakes drizzled with caramel. Ivan then accompanies us to the port, where we board a boat to Chifron.





From the port, a minibus takes us to Capachica, where we stroll through the market. The place is lively and colorful, with stalls overflowing with fruits and vegetables. Some women offer freshly caught fish, while others sell household utensils.

















In a small shop, we look for a hat for Benoît. The encounter with the two young guys running the store quickly turns into a fun moment. They’re so happy to see visitors that they ask if they can film a short video for their social media to show that Europeans are shopping at their place. Their enthusiasm is contagious, and we happily play along. We have a really great time with them.

Afterward, we take a *colectivo* to Llachon. It stops on request and drops us off in front of the small path leading down to Casa Valentin. We eat our picnic in the garden, in the sun, with a stunning view of Lake Titicaca. In the afternoon, we head down to the beach and walk for a few kilometers. Then we take another path back up, which brings us to Casa Valentin from above.

You can find the rest of the travel journal here: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=11463112;a=11463112

This trip, so well told and photographed, makes me dream. Thanks!

Sunday, April 27th

Reynaldo, our driver, picks us up at 7:00 AM. To reach Lampa, we have to cross the city of Juliaca. A few kilometers before arriving, it feels like an open-air dump: waste piles up along the roadside, disfiguring the landscape.

Crossing Juliaca is tough—the traffic is heavy, and no one except our driver seems to follow the traffic rules. The city is dirty, dusty, and shrouded in a haze of pollution. Locals are stopped along the road, where many stalls offer freshly cooked breakfasts.

The Santiago Apóstol church in Lampa is stunning. Lampa is also much cleaner than Juliaca and, above all, less polluted. We were supposed to take a track a little further on, but recent rains made it impassable. So, we head to the Tinajani Canyon via Ayaviri, then take a track to reach the Puya Raimondii forest.

This Andean bromeliad is truly impressive. It grows between 5 and 10 meters tall when fully mature, can live for 60 to 100 years, and flowers only once in its lifetime before dying.











We’re alone there—the place isn’t touristy yet, thankfully. The Puya Raimondii forest is absolutely breathtaking! After this visit, we get back on the track and cross several fords, but the water isn’t too deep. We then return to the Tinajani Canyon to take a few photos. Afterward, we head to Ayaviri and try the local specialty, Kankacho—a dish made with potatoes and mutton. Reynaldo picked the right restaurant: it’s packed, and we’re the only tourists.









We hit the road again for San Pedro, with a stop at La Raya Pass at 4,319 meters above sea level. We arrive at the Inca Hotel at 4:30 PM and drop our bags in our room on the 5th floor. There’s no elevator here, but sleeping up high means we get a great view of the village and the surrounding mountains.



We take a walk around the village and buy some fruit and snacks for the next day. In the evening, we have dinner at the hotel and meet a Polish couple we’d already run into at Colca Canyon.

For the rest of the travel journal, click here: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=11463507;a=11463507

What a beautiful discovery the Tinajani Canyon and the Puya Raimondii forest are! It’s the first time I’ve heard of them despite my thorough research back then!

I couldn’t locate the forest between Juliaca and San Pedro out of curiosity, though. Is it on the road heading due south from Ayaviri?

We stayed at the same hotel in San Pedro to be as close as possible to Palcoyo. I can guess what’s coming next in the itinerary—it’s bound to be memorable! !

So glad you finally took the plunge and started writing this Peruvian travel journal, Carmen! The photos are stunning—the trek looks amazing.

Hope your back isn’t bothering you anymore.

What a beautiful discovery the Tinajani Canyon and the Puya Raimondii forest are! It's the first time I've heard of them despite my thorough research back then!

Couldn't locate the forest between Juliaca and San Pedro out of curiosity, though... Is it on the road heading due south from Ayaviri?

We loved the Puya Raimondii forest. To get there, you have to take a track from the Tinajani Canyon. If you ever return to Peru, I'll give you the GPS coordinates. I have to be honest, I won't be putting the GPS points in my travel journal. This place is truly impressive and still preserved from mass tourism for now. I hope it stays that way.

So glad you finally got around to writing this Peruvian travel journal, Carmen. The photos are stunning—the trek looks amazing.

Hi Pascale,

Yeah, I got motivated! 🙂 That said, there are quite a few issues with the site. For my last post, I had to try three times.😕

Same here, I’m discovering Puya Raimondii and the Tinajani Canyon. Really nice.

Staying in San Pedro is definitely a good option. It lets you do Palcoyo in the morning when the weather often clouds over in the early afternoon, according to our guide.

We arrived around 2:00 PM coming from Puno, and the blue sky had disappeared by the time we climbed up. But we were the only two "tourists" there on August 6th.

Same here, I just discovered Puya Raimondii and the Tinajani canyon.

Both places are barely known to tourists. I actually struggled to find info on the Puya Raimondii forest.

Staying in San Pedro is probably a good option.

Yes, but you need your own vehicle or a driver.

Most people go straight from Puno to Cusco. It’s a shame to stay overnight in Puno, though. I think the Capachica peninsula is way nicer.

It lets you visit Palcoyo in the morning when the weather often clouds over in the early afternoon, according to our guide.

You’ll see, the sky can be overcast in the morning too. ;) A photographer told us it was better for the colors… I’m not sure, it was still beautiful, but with the sun it must be even better. Unless the sun isn’t positioned well relative to the site.

When we were there, there were very few tourists. At one point, maybe a dozen or so. You just had to wait a bit to be completely alone with the Peruvians and the alpacas waiting for tourists to take a photo.

But during high season, it might be better to go in the afternoon.

Hi Carmen, Your itinerary is such a refreshing change from the usual trips—so many places I’d never even heard of! As always, your photos are stunning, and April seems like a great compromise. Sure, there were a few clouds here and there, but way fewer tourists than in summer. Keep up the great work! Jacques

That’s what I love about these travel journals. The chance to discover hidden gems! Thanks for the trip!

Monday, April 28

Breakfast on the hotel rooftop, then Roberto, our driver, picks us up at 8:30 AM. We drive for about twenty minutes to Combapata before taking the track leading to the Palcoyo mountain parking lot.

Roberto knows the track by heart—he takes it two or three times a month. We pass through small villages and stop several times to photograph the many alpacas. The landscape is stunning, with numerous cultivated terraces stretching along the mountainside. Everything is lush and in bloom. After about an hour and a half of climbing, we reach the parking lot.



The hike up is easy. Palcoyo Mountain, located at 4,900 meters (16,076 feet) above sea level, is really beautiful. Despite the clouds, the colors remain vibrant. Fortunately, there are very few visitors, allowing us to fully enjoy the site. To descend back to the parking lot, we take another trail that passes through the Palcoyo Stone Forest. The place is gorgeous, with stunning views of the valley and the mountain’s colorful rocks.

















Roberto sleeps in the car but wakes up when he hears us talking. We head back toward Cusco. Along the way, we spot a suri, a rare breed of alpaca with long, straight fleece that hangs in locks, unlike the huacaya, which is curly. We then stop to see the Inca bridge at Checacupe and visit the church in Andahuaylillas, nicknamed the "Sistine Chapel of the Andes."

The famous suri

We arrive in Cusco around 5:00 PM. Traffic is heavy—horns blare constantly, and overtaking is pretty chaotic. It’s a bit of a survival of the fittest. Fortunately, Roberto drives carefully.

We settle into the lovely room at Hotel Casa Esmeralda by Katari. I’m glad I booked a superior room: the view of the city is amazing, and the room is very comfortable. The agency we’re doing the trek with recommended choosing a hotel that’s easily accessible by car. Casa Esmeralda by Katari fits the bill. Plus, staying outside the old town lets us discover neighborhoods we might not have visited otherwise.

Once we’re settled, we head out on foot to explore Plaza de Armas before dinner at Rucula restaurant. An excellent choice—the food is delicious, and the service is impeccable.

You can find the rest of the travel journal here: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=11463772;a=11463772

A few more photos...





The Inca bridge at Checacupe (that’s the rope bridge in front of the stone bridge)

You can find the rest of the travel journal here: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=11463772;a=11463772

Hi Carmen,

The photos are gorgeous. I love all these colors.

Hi there

These landscapes are absolutely incredible!

Yes, this site is amazing! (I know, not very original 😎 ... but it really is so beautiful).

I’ve been following this travel journal in silence (or almost) and I find it particularly interesting. It stands out with its original route—off the beaten path and not the usual itinerary... Filled with treks (my main interest), it is! I really loved Peru, and this story makes me want to go back.

Your itinerary really stands out from the classic circuits with sites I’d never heard of before. As usual, the photos are stunning, and April—despite a few clouds in some places—seems like a great compromise with way fewer tourists than in summer.

Yeah, April does seem like a good compromise. According to our drivers, it gets *much* busier in July, August, and September.

True, there were a few clouds, but nothing bothersome. Sometimes, they even make for better photos. Anyway, in the high mountains, the weather changes often—just like back home in the Alps. During the trek, we even experienced all four seasons in a single day.

Hi Kate, thanks for stopping by my travel journal! 🙂

I followed this travel journal in silence (or almost) and found it particularly interesting. It stands out with its choice of an original route that breaks away from the usual beaten path... Filled with treks (my main interest). I really enjoyed Peru, and this account makes me want to go back.

Thanks, Jean-Michel, for your message. We love walking and do quite a few hikes near home. Peru is perfect for walkers. 🙂