Thailand Travel Journal: From Chiang Mai to Bangkok, We Didn’t Buddha Our Fun (page 5 of 11)

Good evening,

Thank you, we're blushing! It's exciting to find extra reasons to be happy. You'll have more people around you, but also better chances for pleasant skies and weather. As the days go by, we're thrilled to dedicate a day to responding to those who left a message. You might have even more reason to get excited. Oh wow, January feels so far away!!😛

What strikes me as I read through your journal every day is the truly MIND-BLOWING, breathtaking, extraordinary richness of Thailand. Even in the most remote places, off the tourist trails, you find real wonders. A little dig at those who don’t understand why we keep coming back every year...

Hey there!

I’ve had the same thought recently. Too bad Thailand is richer than I am! 😄

The day before, as we were leaving the market, we tried to get some information at the bus station. Despite all the lights being off, someone near the entrance was able to answer our question. We wanted to know the bus schedules, and we were told that due to a lack of passengers, there were no more buses to Suphanburi. Well, that was a surprise!

After a leisurely breakfast with Philippe, he once again volunteered to take us into town. It didn’t take long for him to spot an ad for a taxi. A quick phone call and a little haggling later, followed by goodbyes (well, see-you-laters!), and we covered the 82 km in a way that wasn’t backpacker-style at all.

The Songphanburi Hotel is a massive concrete block. We got the superior room with breakfast for 27 €. We also chose it because of the pool. True, maintaining it isn’t their top priority.

As we were walking up the ramp, we crossed paths with a very beautiful young woman, absolutely distinguished and stylish, who had the serious and absorbed expression you often see in Thais busy with business. For a moment, you might think she was putting on airs...

Our surprise was great when we arrived at the reception. All the young women at the front desk looked at us with a stunned expression. And it didn’t get any better when we tried to communicate. No one spoke English, no one seemed to make an effort, and honestly, we felt like they were paralyzed. Often, we use the first contact to talk about our upcoming days and at least start organizing things. We had to admit that our first attempts were hitting a 0% success rate, and being pragmatic, we decided to take a few minutes in our room to unpack some things. We took the elevator, almost able to feel the wave of relief behind us as we left.

At one point, a light bulb went off. Joel remembered seeing some well-dressed people in the lobby, busy on their smartphones. He figured there was a good chance some of them spoke at least a little English. You’ve got to seize good ideas when they come, so when the elevator opened on the ground floor, a new wave of panic swept over the receptionists—until they realized we were turning into the lobby. Phew! Meanwhile, the men we’d seen earlier had disappeared, and we thought we’d struck out—until a last glance revealed two young women in the back of the room, focused on their phones, including the one we’d seen on the ramp. It was hard to tell if they were sisters, friends, or colleagues, but one thing was certain: each could be happy with her reflection in the mirror.

We really had to talk to them for them to notice us, they were so absorbed. Joel asked them in English, with his shy-awkward-polite side: "Excuse me, do you understand English? Could you help us?"

The reaction, which lasted just a moment, was telling of our month in Thailand and spoke volumes about Thais. In a split second, this person with her cold-beauty appearance stood up like a jack-in-the-box, just long enough to put down her phone, and transformed into the most charming and helpful person in the world, with a radiant smile that could defrost a freezer.

"Yes, of course, what can I do for you?" Our arms nearly fell off.

For the record, two days later when we came down for breakfast, we saw that the hotel had transformed overnight into Cinderella’s palace, with people dressed up everywhere to host a wedding. Our two young women were back, and we then understood they were the masterminds behind the ceremony.

From the moment we approached them, things moved quickly. These young women dropped everything, shuttling back and forth between us and the receptionists, their smartphones buzzing nonstop—so much so that we ended up feeling a bit lost. In any case, it turned out that in just 20 minutes, they’d not only sorted out our afternoon plans but also the next two days. Here’s your gift pack, you can take it with you... We thanked them as much as we could, feeling like it still wasn’t enough.

We had an organization problem and stumbled upon... THE ORGANIZER!! Isn’t life beautiful?



We couldn’t help but tell her that we’d never received such a poor welcome in a Thai hotel. She immediately explained something we should’ve realized long ago: "You know, they’re terrified. They know they can’t help you and they’re extremely embarrassed." That’s when everything clicked. Those odd reactions that had seemed so strange and inappropriate—both now and in the past—were all about the absolute dread of *losing face*!!!!

We barely had time to get ready before the tuk-tuk was already waiting to take us to the Suphanburi National Museum. In Asia, we don’t usually go for museums because they can be disappointing. But you’ve got to make exceptions now and then, and we’ve had some great ones these past few weeks.

The museum is open from 9 AM to 4 PM, closed Mondays and Tuesdays. Entry is 100 baht. The first panels in the museum proudly state that this region was the cradle of Thai civilization. Two of the rooms are interesting, showcasing several magnificent Lopburi-style sculptures from the 13th century, delicate statuettes, splendid votive tablets, and some prehistoric tools and jewelry. (Note that Thai prehistory is around 600 AD.)











The tour then leads through reconstructions of old-time scenes with huts, shops, and wax mannequins, while a soundtrack plays dialogues matching the scenes. It’s a really well-done setup, let’s admit it.





Before leaving, there’s a surprising large room where the public can access jukebox-like stations with headphones. You can listen to old Thai hits from the 45-rpm record era. A quirky touch we wouldn’t have expected.

While strolling through town before dinner, we passed the memorial dedicated to King Naresuan. In Thailand, there’s a direct link between the image of the rooster and the king. It’s not the first time we’ve seen this kind of scene—it’s a sort of tribute from the people—but this was the most impressive army of roosters we’d ever seen.

😄 😄 😄

I love it!

The interaction with the receptionists reminded me of a similar moment in Nakhon Sawan.

I still smile about it today when I think back.

And all that for what? Just to save face... I saw girls "fleeing" from the reception when I arrived. At first, it left me with a strange impression.

Thanks for this really enjoyable read.

When you're not in the know, dear Christophe, it must feel weird the first time: you arrive all smooth and charming, and then they take off running! 🏴‍☠️

The first time, I was taken aback by such behavior. Actually, I didn’t understand why they "ran away" when I approached. At a **** hotel in a city like Nakhon Sawan, I thought the receptionists would speak a little English.

Now that I’ve figured it out, it’s actually kind of funny because I know how to say hello or get someone’s attention in Thai, which makes them come back. Then, I ask, "Do you speak English?" 😏

With people who are a bit shy or don’t want to lose face, the reaction is often pretty amusing. 😄 After that, I manage with my three Thai words and my smartphone, which has an app that can speak Thai—and it does a great job, by the way. Sometimes, they call someone else who speaks three words of English, and we always make it work by putting in some effort, being patient, and keeping a friendly smile.

Arriving like a flirt? That’s not me at all, my dear... my natural charm is enough! 😄 😄 😄 (Please consider this last line written in self-deprecating humor.)

Honestly, in Thailand, there are so many funny moments to experience. It’s one of the things I love about this country.

This army of little roosters or ugly roosters ... leaves me perplexed. Sometimes, I admit I don’t quite see the point of certain things. Oh well, it’s meant to pay homage... though even knowing that... Maybe I haven’t reached a level of wisdom high enough to grasp the full subtlety of such a monument.

You have to admit, breakfast at the Songphanburi Hotel really stands out from the usual routine. We’re pleasantly surprised to find guava juice, real jam, two kinds of cakes, excellent pineapple, decent coffee, and real milk available. That said, this kind of spread isn’t an everyday thing in Thailand.

The turnaround in the reception staff is striking: the girls are totally relaxed and greet us with big smiles. The farangs have been taken care of, they’re happy, and the staff won’t lose face. Amazing Thailand!

At eight in the morning, our guide Ha shows up as planned with the little Mitsubishi driven by her boyfriend Beuh (pronounced the Thai way, with a slight gagging intonation). Real names are often more complicated, so nicknames are the way to go. While Beuh has a bit of a roguish, deadpan side, Ha is an extremely considerate and cheerful little woman. We hit it off right away—there are just some people you can’t help but like.

They’ve brought the full list of the day’s activities. It’s a packed schedule because Suphanburi is a must-visit stop on the Buddha trail.

Our first stop is Wat Phra Rup, a six-century-old temple where, at this early hour, only the guard dog seems vaguely awake. The word in the country is that the long reclining Buddha (13 meters) here has the most beautiful face in Thailand. That’s absolutely not true, though his expression leaves no doubt he’s just reached nirvana. Near this statue, a monk in wax sits cross-legged on a wooden table. Oh wait—no, he moved! Turns out he’s real. Not far from nirvana himself, actually.



But that’s not the only reason we’re here. We’re lucky our new friends exchange a few words with the first monk we meet. He gives them some explanations and hurries to find the keys to unlock a door on the upper floor of a side building. The most precious items are displayed in a long hall, including a large piece of padauk wood, or Burmese rosewood, unique in Thailand. It’s about two meters long and 90 centimeters wide, carved on both sides. On one side, the famous footprint of Buddha, and on the other, a battle scene with elephants. Unfortunately, it was the least photogenic thing we saw. The thick glass protecting it was dirty, and bright light streamed in through the row of windows at the bottom of the hall. We had to press our noses right up to it to get a good look. It’s a delicate and original piece. All around, there are finely crafted furniture, statues, and statuettes. Notably, two statues bear a strong resemblance to the one we saw the day before at the national museum.





Time to tackle the highlight of the day: Wat Pa Lelai. This temple’s origins date back to the 13th century. It’s now a large complex, with even a new and spacious viharn under construction. Right at the entrance, there’s already a good crowd, even though it’s a weekday, and you can feel the devotion. Everyone comes to ring the bells. And there are already so many statues to admire. Several Buddhas are heavily gilded with gold leaf, the newest layers fluttering in the light breeze while incense fills the air.

The first building is guarded by an elephant and a monkey, both made of granite. It’s tall and narrow, with a constant flow of people entering and exiting. Inside, all you can do is look up—it’s another case of sheer scale. The seated Buddha, once outdoors, stands 23 meters tall and commands attention under its colorful ceiling.



Around this building, there’s a succession of figures and animals—not your average garden pottery. A small shrine at the back houses a very old Buddha representation.



Leaving the small enclosure, after an inner courtyard, we’re treated to a walk along the four galleries on the sides of the large inner courtyard. It’s an unbroken sequence of vibrant, colorful murals, each at least three meters by two. They’re unlike anything we usually see and incredibly expressive. You can spot scenes from daily life centuries ago, few of which are ordinary. One depicts a decapitation, another a cremation, and several show acts of sorcery and ghosts.















We’re snapped out of our awe by a dog lying on a mat, just after we catch a whiff of death. He’s barely breathing, clearly in his final moments. Up until now, we hadn’t seen anything like this—now it’s two in just a few days. There’s no way we’ll ever get used to it.

At the end of the path, a pot-bellied, laughing Chinese Buddha towers over a stele, a turtle, and a statue that seem even older than the temple itself.

We emerge at the exit into a whole row of shops where you can grab a bite and buy all sorts of items.

We’ve seen so much, even though we haven’t even covered the whole temple. But our schedule is packed, and the next stop awaits. Our guides still take the time to feed the fish. In this region, many temples are by the river or a pond, and the sacred fish aren’t caught—they’re fattened up.

On the west bank, where the ancient city of Suwannaphum once stood, another 600-year-old temple is worth a visit. Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat houses a rather flat, two-meter Buddha in the shape of a votive tablet in one of its chapels.



The interior has a bit of an Ayutthaya vibe, with stupas in varying states of preservation, but with a large chedi that archaeologists date to the U Thong period, predating Ayutthaya.





Only Joel, driven by his modern-day adventurer spirit, gives in to the temptation to climb the steps to see what’s behind the gaping entrance a few meters off the ground, under the imposing dome. Inside, there are indeed a few statuettes and a slender golden Buddha with arms outstretched in a peaceful pose, draped in colorful flower garlands. You have to lean in to make out a mysterious statue completely wrapped in colored bandages—only the gilded base is visible. The mummy?

A few meters after descending the steps, Joel feels an unpleasant sensation on the outer part of his left leg, just below the calf. Maybe a mosquito or one of those random aches that come and go. Let’s forget about it. A few more steps, and he feels that stinging sensation again—though there’s nothing on his leg. But it’s definitely red, and it’s itching a bit too much to be normal. Later, Beuh pulls a homemade cream from the glove compartment that soothes the itching. Temporarily. The mummy’s curse?

Across from the chedi stands a house-shaped structure with a temple-style roof. You can’t go inside—the windows are closed, and a gate blocks the door. Only a cat got through... and the GoPro, much to the Canon’s jealousy at that exact moment. It’s a storage shed for Buddhas of all sizes, some also shaped like votive tablets.

Thanks Joël for this new little bubble of happiness to start the weekend off right— So much fun reading you! 😎

Wat Pa Lelai with the family

https://youtu.be/S27gAnuZ0cU

Just a little further north, the road of wonders continues at Wat Khae. Hearing that this temple coexists with a thousand-year-old tamarind tree is one thing, but arriving at the parking lot, stepping out of the car, and seeing it for yourself is something else entirely. You're facing a block nearly ten meters in diameter that seems to be made up of hundreds of trunks. On one side, a trio of Buddhas watches over it; on the other, there's a statue. And just like in Ayutthaya, here a Buddha bust is completely embedded at the base of the trunk.







A legend tells that a magician taught the local hero the art of transforming tamarind leaves into wasps to counterattack the enemy. Without this information, you might be a bit taken aback by the gigantic insect adorned with colorful ribbons behind the temple. The hero sitting on it must be quite satisfied watching all the devotees who come to pay their respects and decorate it with small gold leaves. It works out well: yellow suits the wasp!



A fake nest was even hung in the nearest tree to complete the scene. It's amusing to discover nearby a fake rock with the local Excalibur stuck in it. However, this part of the legend remains unknown to us.

The temple itself isn't very large. It seems to have been recently renovated. Around the perimeter, you'll notice semi-realistic, semi-naive frescoes in bright colors, as well as a copper Buddha with multiple heads.



Françoise scratched her leg somewhere and a few drops of blood appeared. Immediately, there was a flurry of activity among our companions and the people around us, everyone rushing to save her life. In the blink of an eye, a band-aid was applied, and while that was happening, some people took the opportunity to chat with us. In the end, everyone was very satisfied.

We're feeling motivated today. The fifth temple is Wat Phra Loi, which also likely dates back to before Ayutthaya. It was founded where villagers discovered a sandstone statue drifting on the river. It must have been a sign from heaven.

In front of the current ubosot, we see these representations of little monks holding their offering bowls. Two of them are wearing pink sunglasses... There are interesting statues both outside and inside, including the famous Buddha saved from the waters.



Closer to the river are the ruins of the old ubosot. They're about 700 years old and are protected by walls and a roof built over them. The monk present keeps an eye on small statues, including pink and yellow Buddhas, old stone sculptures, a remarkable set of relief panels, and even the wooden gable of the old temple.







Several covered piers with benches have been set up along the river, where visitors can feed the protected fish. These fish live like pashas, their main occupation being to outswim each other to stuff themselves. There are some impressive sizes, and they're not in danger of extinction anytime soon.

Next, we wanted to see Wat No Phuttangkul, renowned for its 1848 mural paintings from the reign of Rama III. But we later realized our guide had made a mistake. We did raise an eyebrow briefly but were unsure. Maybe fatigue played a part at that time of day. Still, we did get to see, prominently displayed, a large golden Buddha... made of woven wicker.



Our companions could have stopped there, but they wanted to take us to Wat Phrao. More precisely, behind the temple. There's rustling in the trees: a colony of flying foxes lives here in peace. We spent some pleasant moments watching the big "Batsmans" flying from tree to tree and occasionally squabbling. Against the light and on the ground, it's more of an experience to live than to photograph.





We and our friends are starving. We let them choose, and it's hot pot at Robinson. It's not really our cup of tea—a fondue distorted in a big shopping mall—but it gives us the chance to discover another aspect of Thai life, in a truly convivial moment.

The bats are impressively large!

The tree is stunning.

I’ve always loved carved wood, and Thailand is full of it. You can still find temples made entirely of wood.

Your travel journal is still such a pleasure to read.

For this new day, our two guides arrive looking like they just stepped out of the shower. In the early morning, given how often Beuh stops the car to use the restroom, he must’ve really celebrated the previous workday. Ha is thrilled to see us again and brings a lot of cheer to the situation. She shows us a few photos from the night before, with Beuh looking perfectly tipsy among his friends and a few bottles.

We leave the city to get some fresh air in the countryside. Our first stop is a temple that houses buffaloes and deer in enclosures. The animals are completely used to humans and calmly come over to be fed.





We planned to take a walk at Muang Phu Forest Park, about forty kilometers southwest of Suphanburi. There’s a 1.5 km nature trail leading to a five-tiered waterfall. Our driver had time to prepare for it since the day before yesterday and planned the route. But no such luck! We’re left scrambling and only then do we think to look for a solution! This leads to a few detours and roadside inquiries. Our phone isn’t working well, so we suggest checking Google, but no luck. What bothers them is that the national park’s standard line isn’t answering. And for good reason. When we arrive, the air is dry, and the idle employees inform us the park is closed—there’s simply no water. So much for our walk, monkeys, and waterfall!

Instead, we decide to head nearby to visit... a construction site. Yes, really! Once completed, the project will be called Somdet Phra Putta Kiri Sri Suwannaphumi. For simplicity, it’ll also be known as Luang Pho U-Tong. The whole thing is officially under the supervision of Wat Khao Tham Thiam.

It’s a massive project: not one, not two, not three, but—ladies and gentlemen—five giant Buddhas carved into the rock! Something that’ll surely make headlines soon.

Upon arrival, we see the original site looks like a large abandoned quarry, shaped like a crescent. At the center of the view, the first Buddha is nearing completion. It’ll be 84 meters tall and 65 meters wide. Only the head is almost finished. The sound of construction machinery and jackhammers is everywhere. There’s a small temporary temple across from it, with a model of the site, and a few vendors are already set up.







We climb the slope leading to the back of the statue, where a tunnel has been dug. Soon, a monk comes to meet us, determined to make contact and give us all the details. He tells us he was sent here by his superior from Wat Pa Lelai. He’s the first to confirm there’ll be five Buddhas, with only one not being gigantic. So, a future attraction—and plenty of work for the laborers.









The area is pretty, with scattered hills breaking up the landscape’s monotony.



To keep us busy, our guides take us to a very recent temple. Here too, though on a smaller scale, gigantism is the theme. This temple seems dedicated to a spirit or historical figure whose name we didn’t catch. Still, it’s the largest statue of its kind in Thailand.









Despite the background noise, a sharp, high-pitched, regular cry catches our attention. That’s how we stumble upon (or rather, beak-to-beak with) a magnificent raptor perched on its stand. We have no idea if it was rescued injured or what, as there’s no one around. It worries us a bit seeing it in full sun—we don’t know if it can handle it. Still, it seems healthy.



It’s high time to eat, and we manage to make it clear we want to have lunch at a classic restaurant. We arrive during the rush, and right next to us, a whole group of diners is making a lot of noise. Turns out, it’s one of the men’s birthdays, and they’re celebrating. They’ve downed a few bottles of Thai whiskey. Whiskey in a glass, topped with a splash of water, and they drink until they can’t anymore. There’s loud talking and laughing. Of course, there comes a moment when they start acting silly and almost fall onto our table. Since we were already laughing at them, they felt encouraged, and Joel ended up having to down his glass of whiskey in one go. Cheap whiskey with water is disgusting. Still, they must’ve been happy later when they saw the photos of them posing with their arms around the friendly *farang*. Well, if they remembered, that is.

Before leaving, we ask Ha and Beuh if they’d like to take us to our next destination tomorrow, which would earn them a little extra for a half-day. They happily agree. So, we can comfortably retreat to the cool of the hotel, where the staff is always smiling and happy to see us...

In the evening, we need to stop by the pharmacy. The red mark has spread, and there’s a rather hard swelling where it seems like a bite happened. If it were a wasp, you’d see it; if it were a snake, there’d be two puncture marks. So, it must’ve been a spider. A bit of ointment for the night—since the first 24 hours have passed, the victim should survive.

This temple seems dedicated to a spirit or historical figure whose name we didn’t catch.

Hi there, To add some value to the travel journal,

Explanations >>HERE<< Maybe he lived here, or someone crashed an ultralight pretty recently on the site?

😄 😄 😄

Sorry, this is the kind of post that just makes me laugh!

Not sure if it adds much to this travel journal... But it was a few seconds of workout for my cheek muscles! !

Explanations

LOL! The "culture for dummies" part is like DIY—still needs some polishing... No offense to Sir Number One, but after the 15th or 17th temple, you start looking for a little humor to lighten things up.

As previously mentioned, breakfast is packed, and the outfits worn by most guests are absolutely astonishing—dare we say, sometimes downright grotesque. There are so many princesses and subjects from the Kingdom of Siam that it feels like you're having coffee in the middle of a costume party.

When we bump into the young woman who organized our stay, we greet her and don’t miss the chance to tell her we’ve had three wonderful days thanks to her. The lovely lady is delighted!

We ask Ha and Beuh if they’d mind stopping by the Celestial Dragon Village before hitting the road. Of course not!

Two structures stand out in Suphanburi. There’s a tower overlooking the city, offering a 360-degree view. It’s a closed tower, though, and not what we’re interested in. But watch out! There’s also a dragon in the landscape, added less than a decade ago. It’s 135 meters long, 35 meters high, and 18 meters wide. It’s colorful, friendly, and impossible to miss.



It’s actually a shopping village with numerous shops. It also commemorates the friendship between Thailand and China. The dragon itself houses a museum with about twenty rooms. It’s open from Wednesday to Sunday. We didn’t have time to visit, but we did notice the entrance fee is 500 baht. We took a pleasant stroll without lingering too long. Even at this early hour, on this fourth consecutive day of sunshine—a record—hats or umbrellas are a must. Even the clouds have cleared out.





In one alley, we spot some intriguing black statues—half-human, half-animal figures, including a donkey that reminds us of some forum memories. Anyway, let’s move on, and *sabaidee chok dee khrap hi han*.

Ninety kilometers south, it’s no less hot. It feels like May (though what do they know—they’ve never been here in May!). Our friends seem reluctant to leave. Ha has almost fallen for Françoise, and she’s given Joel a nickname: Mister Bean. Since it’s not about his looks, it must be his overall performance...

So, they join us for a visit to the Proud Exclusive Hotel in Nakhon Pathom. It’s clearly a very new hotel, spotless and fresh. At 20 € a night, it’s a great deal. The mattress is super comfy, and the balcony is spacious. There’s a modestly sized pool, but it’s more than enough (or even necessary) for heatwaves like this. Just know that the pool is in front of the hotel. You’ve got an audience when you swim: passersby, guests grabbing a snack, delivery folks, and the whole crew at reception. Despite our best efforts, we’ve felt the march of time and have certainly puffed out our chests and sucked in our stomachs now and then.

Then we realize why Ha and Beuh hadn’t left right away. They knew we wanted to see the famous chedi in town and made it a point of honor to drop us off before saying goodbye. We’ll skip describing the farewell scene to avoid getting too emotional. At least these days, phones make it possible to stay in touch visually from afar.

The tallest chedi in Thailand shines brightly under the blazing sun. It’s more of a stacking job—the original structure has had new cones added over time, reaching its current height of just over 120 meters. The spot at the top of the stairs, in front of the Buddha statues, is taken up by Thais holding incense sticks, lotus flowers, and little squares with gold leaf. Like on previous stops, these gold leaves gradually take over and distort all the Buddha representations. Here, a nun walks around the buildings applying a product to the leaves that the wind has loosened, so they stick better.



There’s a maze of corridors, chapels, small plazas, and even a few caves in this complex. One building houses a small, dimly lit museum that seems to have been left untouched for ages. As usual, among the clutter, a few standout items catch the eye. There’s a nice collection of votive tablets, some showing remarkable craftsmanship. Photos are forbidden in this museum, though.

We stumble upon a small ceremony in a modest temple. The monk faces a group of about forty women, almost exclusively. The whole group sings and chants in unison. Every time we hear these sounds, we get goosebumps. It’s truly a part of our Asian dream.







In the end, we cut our visit short. There wasn’t much new to discover, and with the heat, it was time to grab some food and fluids before passing out. There are huge open spaces around the chedi and, of course, plenty of stalls. We got to try *khao larn*, a mix of rice and coconut cooked in bamboo shoots. Sweet and pretty tasty.

The return to the hotel was a bit less straightforward. We didn’t see any tuk-tuks, and when a moto-taxi approached us, we decided to take the plunge. We were in the middle of some communication issues when another guy showed up on his bike, sensing an opportunity. He was much quicker on the uptake and knew the hotel. It was immediately obvious he was mute, and later we found out he was almost deaf too. Watching their "conversation," we were completely lost. They agreed to split the ride.

Then came our athletic moment. Let’s skip the part where one almost lost the other, and the brief moment of anxiety before we were reassured. We’ve had calmer drivers in the past, and when Françoise joined Joel, he wasn’t entirely surprised to hear her say she thought she was going to die several times. The deaf-mute guy was super nervous and drove like a maniac. Try telling a nervous deaf guy to slow down. The most astonishing part isn’t even that, though. Françoise practically jumped off the bike when all that was left was crossing the main road, just a stone’s throw from the hotel. Hard to say if the guy even realized how terrified this usually calm woman was. After paying the guys, our deaf-mute driver, pleased with himself, pulled out a pen, wrote on his hand, and showed his palm to Françoise. Not only did it say, "I am deaf and mute. Thank you very much," but it was in FRENCH! And *vroom*—off he went like a shot.

Some days, you experience things like this and can hardly believe it yourself.

After getting out of the pool, once the risk of fainting or heatstroke had passed, Françoise said to Joel, "Hey, that redness on your leg is starting to darken. I don’t like it. Tomorrow, we’ll need to go to the hospital." Hospitals aren’t exactly an exciting prospect. And let’s not forget that sometimes they amputate the wrong leg.

😄 😄 😄

Sorry, it's the kind of post that just makes me laugh! I don’t know if it adds much to this travel journal... But it was a few seconds of workout for my cheek muscles!

It’s true that for a Westerner, this might seem a bit amusing, but the goal was to explain Jojoone1’s (and readers’) questions about the figure depicted. You should know that hermits are as revered as some monks after leaving their current life. I met one in Bang Boet, an impressive experience—I talked about it on VF in October 2014:

https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=6765983#6765983