Wild Eastern and Western Cape, 3 Weeks in South Africa, September 2017 (page 5 of 8)

“You never know what the bush has in store for you!” Personal proverb 😉

Hi Michel, I checked the site for a Toyota Hilux 4x4 single cab: 14,447.00 ZAR from September 1st to 20th, group L, 3 doors. The price closest to yours is for a 2x4: 11,153.00 ZAR, group J, 2 doors. Mystery

on https://www.hertz.co.za/

from September 1 to 20, 2018, from PE airport to PE airport, Hilux single cab 4x4, request only, group L. No additional options

11,495 ZAR...I just checked again...

You need to book from France—it’s cheaper or even the same price with unlimited mileage, but watch out: the rate varies depending on the travel period.

Exactly... a quick call to the call center to make the reservation... I only had 200 km per day, which was more than enough... then 1.8 ZAR per extra km.

It depends on what kind of trip you're taking. I did a lot more and don't see the point of booking through the South African platform when it's cheaper from France.

Wow Amazing sightings! Both of them! The lion cubs, wow! The black rhinos, wow again!

Afsaal cottage: It’s an accommodation option in the Karoo. Isolated deep in the park... Tempting to stay there, at least 2 nights... We booked it. When we arrived, one of the park employees—who we actually hit it off with—"Do you speak Zulu? No, Xhosa! What a shame. Where are you from?" etc. etc... She even gave us a warm hug on the day we left. Afsaal wasn’t available... "We have a problem with the refrigerator... We’ve kept another lodging for you." With the refrigerator? That’s all? Yes?... Well, we’ll give it a shot anyway—it’s not a broken fridge that’s going to stop us! Off we went toward Afsaal, with a rhino stop and a lion stop along the way. Afsaal is an old shepherd’s hut, upgraded... Lost in the park... protected by a fence... You have to be there before 6 PM and can’t leave until the park opens the next day. You’re completely on your own, far from everything... You’ve got to manage.





It has everything you’d expect from park lodging: a grill for braai, various kitchen utensils, gas (no electricity, obviously, but a gas fridge and solar lights plus candles), 2 beds, tables, chairs. Everything’s under lock and key because of animals like baboons. There’s a watering hole nearby... for the animals... You’ve got running water. I’d still call it pretty luxurious... Though, in my opinion, they had the odd idea of putting the toilets quite far from the "bedroom," outside, and making the shower in some sort of alcove... also outside.



For someone like me who’s not a camper—ouch! But that’s not the real issue... There’s no hot water... and no hot water is *not* good at all... (Actually, it wasn’t the fridge that wasn’t working—it was the shower.) Plus, under a threatening sky and in the pitch-black night, it’s a little less fun... especially since the lighting is *very* in the dark, despite the weak LED bulbs.





To be honest, the next day we switched to a lodge in the main camp with a hot shower... So, just a heads-up—it’s still a bit wild... but remember, camping is *definitely* not my thing.

Karoo NP summary Accommodation in the park = as usual. The park's small grocery store was very well stocked. Short discovery trail on the geology of the Karoo… the basin and the Koppies…



The collision of tectonic plates…





Pre-dinosaur animals… I won’t go back over it since you’ve already grasped and appreciated the explanations at their true value… Here’s a piece of petrified tree... How on earth is that possible?



The view from the first section of the road (Klipspringer Road) = amazing. Gorgeous landscapes. A solid backdrop of wildlife (zebras, elands, klipspringers, ostriches, etc.). The extraordinary bonus… rhinos and lions… The downside was the uncertain weather for 2 days, during which animals were much scarcer.

On the road to hell From Karoo NP, our journey sends us to "hell"—Die Hel is its name, Gamkaskloof the Nature Reserve... To get there, since access via the northern Swartberg Pass is still blocked, we’re forced to go around via Meiringspoort Pass and then Oudtshoorn... First shock: the road descending from the Karoo is long, flat, and the landscape is dry... In the distance, the first foothills of the mountain appear.







As soon as we hit the pass (which isn’t a climb but a valley floor)... it’s spring!... Everything is green under the spring sun.



The road is stunning—it winds through the valley, surrounded by rocks twisted by tectonic movements... and yes, it’s happening again... the result of the massive collision between the South American, African, and Antarctic plates.



A little break to stretch our legs by a small waterfall...



We were here in 2006... doesn’t exactly make us feel younger... Things have changed a bit, for the better... has the same happened for us? After crossing the pass, Oudtshoorn (a town name that’s unpronounceable in Afrikaans) welcomes us... Alright, a quick stop at the local Ocean Basket! It’s even more spring-like on this side of the valley... In the fields, ostriches are frolicking.

The Swartberg Mountains are starting to reveal themselves...







It’s been over 10 years since I was last here. There are quite a few people on the gravel road—since it’s a dead end... and some of them don’t really know how to drive. Let’s just move on.





We cross over to the other side... Just before the barriers that close the pass (due to catastrophic flash flooding, this section is inaccessible)... The gates of hell...



We’re told it’s 2 hours and nearly 50 km...



This 4x4 road is a bit legendary... It’s known as one of the most impressive in South Africa, especially the last few kilometers. Well... I’ve got my Hilux 4x4... I should be able to make it, slowly at least. My main worry is getting a flat tire in the wrong place.

Right from the start, things were a bit more complicated than what I’d seen on the Mountain Passes site. April’s weather must have made things worse (which I was told when I reached the end). Very rocky, with ravines. This time, it’s really the road to hell.

The gravel road narrows—rock on one side, a sheer drop on the other—this is where it gets tricky.

That said, don’t let it spoil the fun—the scenery is just stunning. And klipspringers join the party.







The track winding between the mountains seems endless...











Lots of klipspringers, and they’re not shy at all... What are you doing here?

The last meters…

Just to remind you… we’re going to the very end of this gravel road.









The locals are wondering what these arrogant Frenchies are doing here!





Well, there you go, that’s the valley…





And there, you see, that’s the “road”…

















Better not meet anyone… gotta take it easy… real easy…

And there you go, I did it!



Proud as a peacock…

PS: The next morning, at breakfast, we chatted with three lovely South African ladies… average age 70… their car… an SUV, not a 4x4, for next to nothing… Well, they did it too… That puts my “feat” into perspective a bit… That said, they *are* South African…

For details on those who lived here, take a look at http://www.gamkaskloof.co.za/index.php/our-history In short: in 1830, the first farmers arrived here—the history doesn’t say whether it was from the east, our route, or the west, the other one, which is usually closed because it crosses private property (they open it when there are problems on the other side). Why? For those who know: 1830 was the Great Trek—some went very far, others less so. So, to escape those “cursed English and their laws.” Why did they stay? For me, that’s a mystery. You really had to want to be alone in the world. What followed until 1991 and the departure of the last farmer were years of isolated, secluded existence—the first car in 1958 and the first road in 1962, 1962! Even today, there’s no electrical grid—everything runs on generators. There’s a phone, but it still takes over 3 hours to get to Oudtshoorn or Prince Albert when it’s possible. In theory, they take less than 2 hours where we took a little over 2—but when South African tourists arrive, it can sometimes take more than 5 hours to cross the pass. Well, yeah, when you have to pass each other, it’s not ideal. In 1998, someone returned to eke out a living on their farm and opened the “restaurant” and accommodations/camping. It’s now run by his daughter-in-law and her husband. The Gamkaskloof Nature Reserve was created and surrounds them entirely, though they remain on their “private” section. She homeschools her children. It must be a struggle to make ends meet. They get by on canned fruit, a few crops, and tourists. The profit margin must be minimal, which is why the quality of services can sometimes be a bit lacking. Here, I’d advise bringing your own food—everything is possible self-catering. We were a bit misled by the “full licensed restaurant.” Sure, breakfast is fine, but lunch (the lunch basket) and especially dinner are another story—culinarily far from impressive. Basically, you eat what they eat, and well, it’s not good at all. They’ve chosen to stay far from modern life. Yet, the welcome is friendly, very attentive (see the rest of the story). The “boss” is very nice and chatty. About the three South African "ladies"... the conversation, as usual, turns to where you’re from and where you’ve been. They’re a bit surprised by our itinerary and tell us about theirs. A chilly moment... They’re passing through Orania... We won’t be going there!

So, the accommodation at this guest farm.

The first night, a small but decent simple lodging. Reminder: no electricity... it's gas and LED lights. One room, the bathroom, and the little courtyard.





Problem... around the wood fire, under the African sky... the big electric generator starts up... oops!

The next day... Aware of our issue, the owner moves us to another lodging. This one’s much better. Lost in the valley, surrounded by baboons... a bit of a trek to get there, sure, but it’s spacious and not bad at all, even if, as I mentioned, everything could use a bit more maintenance and investment.







On the second night, the "boss" explains that her husband has gone to Oudtshoorn... And the other car is "currently" broken down, so she’ll bring our "meal" on foot, but it’s no big deal—she likes walking. It takes us a moment to process... wait, that’s 2 km there and 2 km back, at night, seriously... We’ll come with our car to fetch our food.

Already, we’re not sleeping there...

You’ve figured out that in this valley bottom... the main activity is hiking (mountain biking too).

So off we went on an adventure.











With only these as company...

The baboons and...



Just so you know, in this valley, at least 5 active leopards have been identified, including 2 on the site of our hike.

"I don’t tell the guests because most of them get scared and don’t want to go on the hike after that!" Owner’s words

The bottom of the valley.

Let's go!



The mountain range is split in two by the river.

On the west side, the private part of Booplass. On the east side, Die Hel and the Gamkaskloof reserve.

In the middle, the river and the visitors center... We rent park accommodations, bikes, etc...

This late afternoon... there’s a park employee, a bit idle but happy to chat... He lives here... obviously, he’s not going to commute morning and evening. He tells us about helicopter evacuations due to impassable roads, exits from the valley via the private section in case of trouble... in short, we chat.

I found some photos from the last part of the pass, seen from the finish line

On the way to Knysna.

First, as many know, there were massive wildfires in the Western Cape last April. Knysna was hit hard. They did an incredible job in such a short time clearing what was left of the forest fires...

It was mainly the southern part that suffered.

Before







After