Wednesday, July 31: Namibrand / Sesriem
Our second night under the tent wasn’t quite as great—the wind blew, and the tent awning flapped until 1 a.m. Luckily, it calmed down after that. Despite everything, we didn’t get cold. Turns out, we’re getting pretty used to camping.
It’s true that feeling like you’re alone in the world really adds to the experience. We’d have hated to miss moments like these ๐.
We got out of the tent before sunrise to watch it rise over the horizon.
It was cold, though—just 1ยฐC—pretty tough, but as soon as the sun came up, it felt much better.


After breakfast, we wandered around the dunes for a while—it’s really beautiful. Apart from a few oryx passing by, nothing disturbed the sand.




By 10 a.m., we left the camp. We’d shed all our layers because the sun had warmed things up—it was already 20ยฐC, and today, there wasn’t a breath of wind.
We then headed to Sesriem, our destination for the day, just 120 km north of Namibrand. We took the 16 km track followed by the C27, a gravel road that was *not* smooth at all. We got our first taste of Namibian massages—we were shaken like plum trees! Thankfully, we barely crossed anyone because the dust we left in our wake was insane ๐.


Luckily, the road was brightened up by some animals and nice landscapes ๐.





We arrived at the Sesriem camp a little after 12:30 p.m., pretty exhausted from the road.
After the entry formalities, our spot was number 9—near the entrance, which isn’t great. We asked if we could get a spot from number 18 onward since, according to the map, they’re more secluded. But apparently, nothing was available. Honestly, I think she just didn’t feel like bothering to check.
We paid the park entry fees for the next two days. Since we’re sleeping in the park, we pay in 24-hour blocks, so our pass is valid until Friday at noon.
I’d noted that national park fees were supposed to increase in 2019. Tourmaline had also mentioned this (expecting 120 N$/day/person and 20 N$/day/vehicle), but we paid 340 N$ for two days—that’s 80 N$/day/person and 10 N$/day/vehicle. So, it seems the increase didn’t happen in 2019 after all.
The park gates open one hour before sunrise for those staying inside, so tomorrow, it’s from 6:45 a.m. to 7:30 p.m.
We went to our spot—wow, this is a change from the last two nights where we were alone with private restrooms. Here, the shared facilities are in terrible shape. Plus, we’re all on top of each other, and even in the early afternoon, there’s a lot of coming and going.
Luckily, we got a spot surrounded by a low wall, which we can use to set things down instead of putting them directly on the sand. There’s also a plug for the fridge and a water point at the base of the tree. Next to us, they weren’t so lucky—it’s really minimal.

