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Mimi and Maumau, Martine and DD Return! Or the Denver-Denver Loop of the 4 Friends (page 5 of 17)

Discussion started by Marcalamar on 2019-11-04

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Mimi and Maumau, Martine and DD back home! Or the Denver-Denver loop of the 4 friends

Marcalamar · 2019-12-04 · Message 81 of 325

Hi girls! 🙂 Thanks for your kind words. For MM: I’m so glad my notes are helping with your prep. We made all our bookings through Booking (it’s easier with our dodgy English), checking prices and reviews, except for Canyon Village (booked with Xanterra, who handles reservations inside Yellowstone) and Cedar Pass, which we booked directly with the hotel. We only booked two nights inside the parks because of the high prices. We also booked a few rooms for four to cut down the "accommodation" budget, but you’ll find bungalows for two people too. For Françoise: I’m still on the move, borderline hyperactive!! 😕 Luckily, the others keep up without any issues!! We were lucky with the weather!!! Very little rain overall, except for one full day in Yellowstone, which had me grumbling all day, but we did see some amazing wildlife!!!! Have a great day, everyone! Martine 🙂

Mimi and Maumau, Martine and DD return! Or the Denver-Denver loop of the 4 friends

Zemidjan · 2019-12-05 · Message 82 of 325

Very little rain overall except for a full day in Yellowstone, which had me grumbling all day, and we saw some magnificent critters!!!!

“Grumbling” – your comments deliciously remind me of my homeland🙂. Sure, rain in Yellowstone is a real bummer... but hey, 1 day in 3 weeks isn’t bad at all. Accommodation costs are getting higher and higher; for 2020, we’ve mostly opted for Super 8s, which we’d never stayed in during 2016 or 2018. We’ll see how it goes🤪 Yves

Mimi and Maumau, Martine and DD return! Or the Denver-Denver loop of the 4 friends

Marcalamar · 2019-12-05 · Message 83 of 325

Haha! It's true that just like our first names say a lot about our age, certain expressions give away the region of the person who uses them. Just like your "emboucané" makes me strongly suspect you're from Provence!!! Unlike my three buddies, I had a hard time getting over that sunless day in Mammoth, especially with the gorgeous colors I'd seen in the trip reports I'd read. But looking back, I know we were really lucky with the weather!!!!

Mimi and Maumau, Martine and DD are back! Or the Denver-Denver loop of the 4 friends

Marcalamar · 2019-12-07 · Message 84 of 325

Day 6, September 7. Deadwood-Sheridan America Best Value Inn: Sheridan, room for 2 with breakfast 90.50 €. A bit old-fashioned but very clean small hotel with a large room and a kitchenette. A little out of the city center. Very friendly welcome and excellent buffet breakfast (mmmm the waffles). Laundry in the motel (the manager gave us change for the washer and dryer).

Ugh, it was too good to be true!!! Woke up again at 4 a.m.!! And no sunrise to keep me busy during my early morning wake-up!! I take the opportunity to post my photos on Fesses de Bouc. We leave Deadwood at 8 a.m. Today we’re leaving South Dakota for Wyoming!!! I had initially planned to go through Spearfish Canyon, but our next stop is over 400 km away, and we have a lot to see along the way. It’s wiser to head straight via Route 85 to take it easy. It’s mild this morning, still 19°C—life is good!!! We’re still in the Black Hills National Forest, driving first through beautiful pine forests, then across fields and rolling hills. We’re in the heart of farm country, with adorable tiny little villages. Belle Fourche: 415 5th Avenue Since Alaska and Hawaii joined in 1959, this little town has become the physical geographic center of the USA, symbolized by a big star on the country’s map.



Right next to this star is the Tri-States Museum. This charming little free museum tells the story of South Dakota, Montana, and Wyoming—both outside

and inside—with lots of old objects (clothes, utensils, antique furniture), beautiful photos of pioneers, and explanatory panels.

Aladdin

We stop at the General Store, still in operation. As soon as we push the door, we’re transported back in time!!! The stove, the phone, the fridge—everything is from the era and still works.

After the 15 residents of Aladdin, we pass through Alva, which had just a few more at the last census (50). We’re seeing more and more red rocks. We love this road and its stunning landscapes.



Hulett Barely more populated, 385 residents if the sign is to be believed. Another leap back in time. If the road weren’t paved, we’d feel like we’d gone back to the 19th century.... It’s too early to grab a burger at the Ponderosa Café (recommended by several travelers), so we stroll through town with delight.





and instead of the closed Old West Museum, we go into an antique shop filled with treasures—perfect for us since we love old things!!!

DD and Maumau take the opportunity to play cowboys again, much to our delight.

But I feel extremely uncomfortable seeing these guns sold by such a young boy.

In the car, one question keeps nagging at us—and it’ll come up again during our stay: how do people who live in these remote areas in the middle of nowhere make a living?! And what about school, high school, healthcare?! It’s hard to imagine with our city lives where everything is close to home!!!

Mimi and Maumau, Martine and DD return! Or the Denver-Denver loop of the 4 friends

Marcalamar · 2019-12-08 · Message 85 of 325

Devils Tower. We leave this little town that feels stuck in the Far West era, and after a few kilometers through beautiful forests, we see it standing out in the distance amidst the prairies.

Before arriving, the landscape is stunning, and we spot the red sandstone cliffs we love so much towering above the green banks of the Belle Fourche River.

This 265-meter butte, made of hundreds of gray columns with golden reflections, is a sacred site for Native Americans. We even see offerings all along the Tower Trail.





It takes us less than an hour to get as close as possible and leisurely walk around it, following a small trail that climbs quite a bit in places but is also well-shaded, giving us occasional beautiful views of the valley below.

We also see some climbing enthusiasts scaling the vertical colored lines (registration with a ranger is required to access this). A quick stop at the visitor center, where we see a painting depicting the legend.

Let’s hit the road!!! The beautiful blue sky from earlier in the day has disappeared, and some gray clouds are slowly moving in. We continue our journey through rolling hills but are surprised to see the ground littered with dead trees for kilometers. Storm? Disease? It’s striking to see all these fallen trees in this otherwise green landscape. We follow the Keyhole Reservoir before driving on a dreary highway for a long stretch. After passing Buffalo, we take exit 44. Fort Phil Kearny A cold wind has picked up, and we run into this small museum ($5 per person) with its models of battles and the fort as they were in 1867, a small exhibit on Native Americans, soldiers, pioneers, and life at the fort, as well as a short film about the battles and those who took part. The welcome is excellent, and we’re delighted by the efforts of the woman who greets us to speak French. This former military post was built in 1866 along with two others to protect the construction of the railroad and the wagon trains of pioneers following the Bozeman Trail from Fort Laramie to the goldfields of Montana, crossing lands given to the Plains Indians. It first became the target of attacks by Sioux tribes defending their land. Later, led by Chief Red Cloud, other tribes joined forces to ambush the white invaders. Their goal was to drive out the invaders, and they inflicted what became the greatest military disaster on the Great Plains (over 80 soldiers killed). Shortly after this defeat, the land was returned to the Native Americans by treaty, which was later violated again after gold was discovered. The army abandoned the forts protecting the Bozeman Trail in 1868, and they were eventually burned by the Native Americans. There isn’t much left outside except reconstructed palisades

, a few wagons and cannons, and flags flying on the mast.

But this place, steeped in history, leaves a deep impression on us. We walk around the site of the original buildings. Once again, we feel the weight of everything that happened here, a place so full of history, and it’s hard not to think about those battles and, most of all, the people who lived through them. A special light, half-shadow, half-sun, and those big gray clouds add even more intensity to the moment, and it’s with deep emotion that we get back in the car.

I think this well-documented little museum is a great compromise for those, like us, who didn’t have time to visit the Little Bighorn Battlefield. A quick stop at Wagon Box Fight, right next door, the site of another terrible battle, this time lost by Red Cloud’s warriors. A lovely encounter with a doe and her fawn.

And some wild geese (Canada geese?).

We arrive in Sheridan at 6 p.m. Brrr!!! It’s only 13°C. A great meal at a superbly decorated restaurant, Wyoming Cattle & Creek Company (201 Broadway Street): $80 for 4 burgers and two beers. Another amazing day, both historically, visually, and gastronomically!!! What a privilege to experience all this!!!!

Mimi and Maumau, Martine and DD Return! Or the Denver-Denver Loop of the 4 Friends

Zemidjan · 2019-12-08 · Message 86 of 325

We continued our journey through rolling hills, but we were surprised to see the ground littered with dead trees for miles. Storm, disease? It’s surprising to see all these fallen trees in such a lush landscape.

I might have an explanation. I heard that the forest was damaged by a UFO heading toward Devil’s Tower with music playing... but can we really trust that?

Mimi and Maumau, Martine and DD are back! Or the Denver-Denver loop of the 4 friends

Marcalamar · 2019-12-09 · Message 87 of 325

Hey Yves 🙂

That’s exactly what you’re talking about!!!! I get it now!!!! I told DD and he showed me this photo our guys took just before Mimi and I woke up from our nap in the car. They hadn’t told us before for fear we’d think they were nuts!!!! Sorry about the photo quality, but the thing zoomed by like lightning. You’re probably right—they must’ve damaged the forest!!!!

Thanks for the info 😏 and have a great day 🙂

Mimi and Maumau, Martine and DD return! Or the Denver-Denver loop of the 4 friends

Grillonne · 2019-12-09 · Message 88 of 325

Hi Martine, A big thank you for this wonderful travel journal! 🙂 I really enjoy reading it—your writing is clear and smooth, with those little details that make planning easier for the rest of us. The four of you make such a fun group 😏 Like you, I organize everything, and sometimes I get a bit lost in it... but that’s the price of a well-structured plan to avoid wasting too much time on the spot! Plus, for us, it’ll be our first time in the USA... so the stress... Anyway, everything’s booked for September: the ESTA, the flight, the hotels... the itinerary... just need to fine-tune the daily details. I add things, remove them, put them back... 🤪 the joys of prep! Reading your journal, I’m already daydreaming... quietly, so I don’t freak out my husband... about our second trip!!! 😏😏😏 You’ve really inspired me with the landscapes you crossed, even if some remind me of our Jura and the Western vibe. Keep it up, and good luck with the rest of your journal—I know it’s a lot of work.

Mimi and Maumau, Martine and DD return! Or the Denver-Denver loop of the 4 friends

Marimijean · 2019-12-10 · Message 89 of 325

Hats off (literally!) for your photo😉; you're really talented! This trip with you is such a treat! See you soon

Mimi and Maumau, Martine and DD are back! Or the Denver-Denver loop of the 4 friends

Marcalamar · 2019-12-12 · Message 90 of 325

Hello! 🙂

Aline, you haven’t even left yet and you’ve already caught the USA bug!!! You’ll see, we never get over it—it’s the best part! I never would’ve thought we could get so hooked!!!

Have a great time preparing for your road trips, girls!!!

Martine 🙂

Mimi and Maumau, Martine and DD's Return! Or the Denver-Denver Loop of the 4 Friends

Marcalamar · 2019-12-12 · Message 91 of 325

Day 7: September 8 Sheridan-Cody Beartooth Inn: Cody 115 € with breakfast (for 2 people) Large hotel with spacious room including a refrigerator and microwave. A bit out of the way but quiet. The city center is still very easily accessible. Sauna is very nice. Good breakfast. 7:46 AM. Everyone is in the car. It rained last night and it's 12°C this morning, probably due to the clouds still lingering. Driving through Dayton, we're surprised to see a young deer strolling calmly through gardens right in the city center.

US Hwy 14 winds upward into the fog, and the temperature keeps dropping as we climb. We haven’t seen anything for quite a while, then a few small patches of blue sky timidly appear before suddenly everything clears: we’ve risen above the cloud layer.

We stop just above the sea of clouds at an OVL where we take a quick souvenir photo with a Nepali family, exchanging a few words.

It’s magnificent!!!! The clouds float, softening the contours of the rocks and pine trees.

We continue on this beautiful mountain road surrounded by dense forests and vast meadows.

At Burger Junction, we leave Hwy 14 for the stunning Alt 14. The forests give way to meadows, then to a barren plateau where we find the tundra.

The hills are covered with small bushes that give them a lovely bluish tint. We follow a river. It’s so beautiful!!!!



Suddenly, we come across a huge flock of sheep. The hillside is covered with them.

They’re barely distinguishable from the bushes they’re grazing among. They cross the road as they please. Another unforgettable memory: this flock, at over 2,800 meters, alone in the middle of nowhere, guarded only by three large Anatolian shepherd dogs that we pass carefully.

Short stop at Beaver Creek OVL, where we have a breathtaking view of the surroundings.






Mimi and Maumau, Martine and DD return! Or the Denver-Denver loop of the 4 friends

Marcalamar · 2019-12-12 · Message 92 of 325

Big Horn Medicine Wheel Not long after, we leave the asphalt of US 14 Alt for the Forest Road 12 trail. This 5 km driveable track takes us to the ranger station parking lot, and we start the 2.5 km hike that leads us to the site. The walk is easy, even if it climbs a bit in places over the last 500 m, because the path is wide and free of big rocks, and the view of the forests and prairies below is beautiful.





Along the way, there’s hardly any sign of life except for a few small plants struggling to survive

and a few scruffy ravens.

We stop at Five Springs Basin!!!! We hear the song of the wind in the pines!!! It’s magical!!! The wind??? Is it really the wind??? Maybe it’s the spirits of all the Native Americans who’ve passed through here over the centuries, trying to tell us their story. Once up there, we’re alone on this limestone plateau, buffeted by gusts. The site is so steeped in spirituality that, despite everything, it remains calm and peaceful, and a lot of emotion comes through when you think about the hopes of all those who’ve left offerings here. The circle was built by Native Americans using white rocks a long time ago. It’s a wheel about 25 m in diameter with 28 spokes radiating from a central cairn and 6 cairns arranged around it, where offerings for prayers are left (bison skulls, deer antlers, braids, feathers, fabrics, tiny little packets...).













A protective fence made of posts and ropes keeps people from entering.



Everyone falls silent because this place breathes respect. We walk around it quietly, and, as it says on the post, counterclockwise without wondering why we have to go left—but we do.

An American woman coming toward us with her phone to show us photos of fossils she took on the way up brings us back to earth!!! It’s freezing!!!! Luckily, we dressed warmly!!! The 48 °F of Denver feels very, very far away!!!! Despite her explanations, we won’t see a single one on the way down. It’s 11:30 AM. We took two hours, without rushing, to make the round trip. A big thank you to Noyellebis for telling me about it because it’s thanks to her that I put it in my road book, and we’re really glad we did!

Mimi and Maumau, Martine and DD are back! Or the Denver-Denver loop of the 4 friends

Noyellebis · 2019-12-12 · Message 93 of 325

Hi Martine, I’m so glad I could be helpful to you (and the others)! It’s true the site hasn’t changed much. We’d been there a few years ago, and "Five Spring Basins" wasn’t there yet. Noëlle

Mimi and Maumau, Martine and DD return! Or the Denver-Denver loop of the 4 friends

Marcalamar · 2019-12-14 · Message 94 of 325

Bighorn Canyon We catch up with Alt 14, winding its way through the valley. A quick stop at Crystal Creek OVL to see landscapes that look a lot like Canyonland. Still these desert landscapes made of rocks and a few trees. This road literally runs along the folds of a small mountain range, squeezed between the void on one side and a rock wall on the other. At the bottom of the pass, you can see the black rock mounds tinged with pink and green.

Hardly any vegetation except for a few trees following the bed of a small stream. A small bridge lets us cross the Bighorn River, which flows into the huge lake of the same name. It took us 40 minutes to reach the entrance of the Canyon, just before Lovel. Horseshoe Bend We drive through stunning red rocks on our way to grab a bite at the picnic area of the small marina with its boat launch zone.



With full stomachs, we set off again—when suddenly, there they are!!! "The mustangs, the mustangs!!!!" I don’t remember who spotted them first, but there they are, right in front of us!!! The wild horses of Pryor Mountain!!! Just a few meters away!! Peacefully grazing or enjoying their life as free horses!!!

We stop, get out of the car, and start snapping away!!! Every now and then, a head lifts to look at us!!

The one who seems to be the leader, grazing alone in his corner, moves closer to join the herd.





Absolute silence!! We barely dare to move, stepping carefully—too afraid of scaring them off and seeing them run away. What an encounter!! It wasn’t a sure thing, and we know we’re so lucky to see them this close!!! I’m thrilled for our Mimi, who’s a huge horse fan (she was a reporter for *Cheval Magazine*). Another moment rich in emotions!! We’d love to stay and admire them, but we have to leave them to continue our journey. Devil’s Canyon OVL With our heads (and cameras) full of beautiful images, we arrive at the viewpoint. This spot overlooks a meander of the Bighorn River. Several viewpoints offer a plunging view of this narrow, winding canyon.

The panorama is once again breathtaking, with its towering, colorful stone walls.

Another stunning place!!! A little higher up, a herd of bighorn sheep keeps a close eye on us.



We could’ve taken one of the short hikes that bring us closer to the canyon, but we have the big museum in Cody to visit—the clock’s ticking, and if we want to enjoy it a bit, we’ve got to go.

Mimi and Maumau, Martine and DD are back! Or the Denver-Denver loop of the 4 friends

Glll2012New · 2019-12-14 · Message 95 of 325

Hello

Yes, I remember Bighorn Canyon very well. It’s gorgeous and hardly visited. You made a great choice adding it to your itinerary.

And the gift with the mustangs—what an amazing day! !

Mimi and Maumau, Martine and DD's Return! Or the Denver-Denver Loop of the 4 Friends

Marimijean · 2019-12-15 · Message 96 of 325

Hi Martine, What luck you had with all the animals! And thank you for all the details you share in your story—it makes us really want to do the same! I'm amazed by the number of great photos that let us soak in your journey! Thanks again, and here's to what's next! ;)

Mimi and Maumau, Martine and DD's return! Or the Denver-Denver loop of the 4 friends

Hiacinthe · 2019-12-15 · Message 97 of 325

Hello Marimichelle,

You were so lucky with all the animals!

We sure were!

We didn’t see as many horses and bighorns at Bighorn Canyon NRA.

Your photos are gorgeous, Martine.

Have a great evening, everyone!

Christine

Mimi and Maumau, Martine and DD are back! Or the Denver-Denver loop of the 4 friends

Marcalamar · 2019-12-15 · Message 98 of 325

Hi Gilles, Marimichelle, and Christine! 🙂 First of all, thank you for your kind words and compliments—it gives us the courage to write and choose the photos! 😉 We were incredibly lucky with the horses!!!! Especially being able to see them so up close!!! We really loved Bighorn Canyon and the Alt 14 route. We enjoyed this day so much and everything we discovered!!! Hang in there, Martine, the day is almost over—just Cody left!!! I’ll get right to it!!! Have a great evening, everyone! Martine 🙂

Mimi and Maumau, Martine and DD return! Or the Denver-Denver loop of the 4 friends

Marcalamar · 2019-12-15 · Message 99 of 325

Cody Little by little, the sky clouds over, and we arrive in Cody under a light drizzle—a town founded by Buffalo Bill in 1896. No problem, we’ll take shelter in the museum, especially since it’s Sunday and there are no street performances. We have time to stay until closing. Buffalo Bill Historical Center: 720 Sheridan Avenue The parking lot is huge, and we easily find a spot. The ticket attendant asks if we want to return to the museum the next day. When we say no, she offers us a discount since the museum closes in two hours. We’ll pay $9.50 per person instead of the usual $19.50. What a nice lady!!!

This museum is actually made up of 5 distinct zones: Buffalo Bill Museum This space is dedicated to this self-important megalomaniac, from his early childhood to his death. Along with explanatory panels summarizing his life, you’ll find numerous objects and photos, such as saddles, pistols, and the outfits he wore across the United States and Europe during the 30 years of his Wild West Show, as well as a section dedicated to the Pony Express and the lives of cowboys.





Plains Indians Museum A moving sound-and-light show pays tribute to the Plains Indians, with life-sized reconstructions and magnificent collections of objects, regalia, clothing, and jewelry that belonged to the tribes who lived there.













Wildlife Museum Another stunning sound-and-light show dedicated to the fauna and flora of Yellowstone, also set in the context of the park’s different ecosystems, with photos, slideshows, and interactive screens.

Museum of Old West Firearms I didn’t set foot in it, and Mimi left quickly, but the guys liked it. Museum of Western Art I started to go in but quickly abandoned it to return to the section dedicated to the Plains Indians and wildlife. Another place where we would’ve loved to spend more time, but the museum closed, and we headed to the hotel to drop off our suitcases. I took the opportunity to go for a quick sauna while the other three relaxed a bit before we strolled down the main street and started buying souvenirs to bring back to the group. The Western vibe in Cody is quite pleasant, but we didn’t find the same atmosphere that delighted us in Deadwood. Our dinner that evening was at the restaurant « Irma’s », where we splurged on the Prim Ribs Buffet, sampling the house specialties in a gorgeous setting ($147 for 4 people). 1192 Sheridan Avenue



Another fabulous stop!!!! First, the stunning Alt 14 route, the emotion we felt at the Medicine Wheel, and that encounter with the horses!!!! All in a single day!!! How can you not get hooked on this country!!!! And the cherry on top: tomorrow, we’re meeting Yellowstone!!!!

Mimi and Maumau, Martine and DD back again! Or the Denver-Denver loop of the 4 friends

Glll2012New · 2019-12-16 · Message 100 of 325

Hello

I think it’s awesome that you’re keeping a travel journal like that! Maybe it’s typically feminine—I can’t do it. I’m very direct, stick to the essentials, and add few comments. Keep up the good work going forward.

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