The "Must-Sees" of the American West (page 6 of 10)

We're heading back down US 89, then taking US 89A to Lees Ferry, where our next hike starts.

Spencer Trail is an alternative to Horseshoe Bend for seeing a meander of the Colorado River. It's a free and barely crowded alternative—completely the opposite of Horseshoe Bend, which has become a tourist factory in just a few years...

The only "small" difference is that Spencer Trail requires climbing the entire Bend from the Colorado River, starting at Lee's Ferry—nearly 500 m over 3 km... The hike is 9 km round trip to reach the best viewpoint over the Colorado.

The climb is easy thanks to a well-marked and clean trail. The view of the Colorado gets more stunning as you gain elevation.



Once we reach the top of the plateau, contrary to what I thought, we're far from being at the level of the "Bend" facing Horseshoe Bend. We still have to walk 2 km of tough terrain, with small rocky hills that can be pretty rough depending on the route.

And here’s the viewpoint from Spencer Trail, right across from the Bend:

This viewpoint might not be as photogenic as the famous Horseshoe Bend to the left, but at least here, we’ve got the place to ourselves!

Sullivan has fun with his drone, and we stay a while to soak in the scenery! We stick around until sunset, but then we have to descend the 600 m of negative elevation. While checking our backpacks before heading back, we realize we forgot our headlamps!

We know we’ve only got about forty-five minutes to cover most of the 5 km. Once we cross the plateau, we decide to run down the slope to avoid the risk of falling in the pitch-black descent.

I still manage to snap a few photos after sunset: Back at the parking lot, a long drive awaits us to return to Arizona in the Kaibab National Forest, where we’ll camp in an authorized spot. Ioverlander is perfect once again for finding the right camp.

Taking a shower is tough—it’s freezing cold again in the evening. Let’s not forget we’re over 2,000 meters above sea level!

Ultimately a bit of a letdown for West Cove—it didn’t live up to our expectations or the detour we took to explore it today, even though the site itself is pleasant to visit.

Well, Guillaume... after ticking off all the must-sees of the must-sees, you’ve become pretty hard to impress!

10/03/2022: Day 11 - Grand Canyon Today is THE day for Sullivan. Why his day, you might ask? Simply because the Grand Canyon is the only site on our itinerary that Sullivan knew about before we left, and hiking down into the Grand Canyon was one of his dreams!

I should actually tell you a bit about his case... During our first week of travel, we still managed to string together The Subway, Coyote Buttes North, Coyote Buttes South, White Pocket, Yellow Rock, and other spots like Reflection Canyon or Coyote Gulch... While Franck and I were shedding tears of joy at every site, the only superlatives we heard from Sullivan were: "Really nice spot," "It's great!", "It's really beautiful!"!! I'm barely exaggerating... and the only exceptions were The Wave and the huge hike in the Needles, which blew him away! Over time, I started to think that maybe *I* was the one who wasn't normal, getting so excited over a few colorful rocks 🤪!

I think it'll take him several trips to realize in hindsight that his first trip was by far the most memorable in terms of landscapes!

This morning, we got up as usual to have breakfast, pack up our camps, and then cover the few dozen miles separating us from the South Kaibab Trail trailhead. Indeed, today, the three of us are ready to tackle the famous Grand Canyon. This is my fifth visit since 2013, but all these trips have only increased my irrepressible desire to flirt with the waters of the Colorado River down at the bottom!

Most people do the round trip in at least two days, especially in the summer. But at the beginning of October, the milder temperatures allow us to attempt the descent via the South Kaibab Trail and the ascent via the Bright Angel Trail without taking unreasonable risks.

That said, it won't be a walk in the park with over 26 km of hiking and 1,350 m of elevation gain, especially the legendary final climb, worthy of the Alpe d'Huez, with nearly 1,000 meters of elevation over the last 7 km!!

After parking right next to the trailhead, we started the fun with the South Kaibab Trail, an uninterrupted 11 km descent that would take us down to the Colorado River. At 9 AM, the shadows cast on the Grand Canyon cliffs made the site even more magnificent.

Despite previous visits, we couldn't help but marvel at the immensity of this 60-million-year-old canyon 😇!

View from the Rim



Right from the start, the tight switchbacks on the descent were impressive...

We reached the first well-known viewpoint, Ooh Aah Point.

A little further on, Cedar Ridge.





In the summer, it's recommended not to go beyond Skeleton Point and to turn back to avoid pushing too hard on the return.

The following viewpoints, all just a few minutes from this point, make you feel like you're in the heart of the "beast."

For us, there was no way we were turning back after only 2.5 hours of hiking. We kept going...

At noon, we ran into two cowboys hauling equipment, probably from Phantom Ranch.

It made for some real postcard-worthy photos, straight out of a Western movie! 🙂



Instead of taking shelter at The Tipoff Shelter, a spot meant to give hikers a little shade, we decided to keep going... The temperatures were really pleasant this time of year.

We finally caught sight of the chocolate-colored Colorado River from a breathtaking viewpoint around a bend!

As we got closer to the bottom of the canyon, we lost some depth of field, but the landscapes were still stunning.

And here’s the first suspension bridge we’d be crossing in just a few minutes!

After 4 hours of hiking, it finally happened—our dream came true as we crossed the famous bridge spanning the Colorado River! 😇

Looking at the vegetation, especially the cacti, it’s easy to imagine the scorching heat that must hit the bottom of the canyon in the middle of summer.

A second bridge, the Bright Angel Suspension Bridge, marks the starting point of the River Trail.

In the distance, we spotted tourists on horseback, probably starting from Phantom Ranch. Personally, I’d rather be on foot than on some nag at the edge of a cliff, but to each their own... We followed the Colorado River, searching for a shady spot to finally have lunch!

We struggled to find shade but eventually found the perfect spot just before leaving the River Trail. Not a bad view for a picnic...

After lunch, we start the Bright Angel Trail, hiking up a valley called Garden Creek, which runs alongside a dry riverbed.



We then reach Indian Gardens Campground, the last spot with water before the final climb. We take the chance to hydrate well and cool off. We rest there for a good fifteen minutes, laughing as we watch a group of Americans dressed like they’re about to summit Everest, acting all prim and proper.

Just as we were about to set off right behind these guys, we see them talking among themselves, glancing at us out of the corner of their eye, then turning back. Weird... You’d think they were doubting their physical abilities and their egos wouldn’t let them risk being overtaken. A bit ridiculous, really 🤪, so we eventually take off for the famous 7.5 km and 950 m of elevation gain.

As usual, we let Sullivan go ahead, and he sets a pace of 5 km/h. In the first few kilometers, the climb is steady and goes pretty smoothly. To get a decent view, you have to turn around.

The viewpoints seriously lack width and depth 😕, and it’s only in the last third of the Bright Angel Trail that the scenery starts to be worth it. But it’s still nowhere near the epic views you get on the South Kaibab Trail from start to finish!

Not only does Sullivan keep his 5 km/h pace even when the climb gets much steeper, but the worst part is that neither he nor Franck stops to drink 😮! To avoid falling behind, I’m forced to keep up the pace while pulling my bottle out of my bag, even having to run to catch up... Machines, those two brothers... 😏

In the last few kilometers, we pass dozens of hikers—mostly day-trippers who ventured a few kilometers down the Bright Angel Trail and then struggled a bit more on the way back up.

A few hundred meters from the finish, we go through a door carved into the rock

and reach the Rim at 5:20 PM, after 8.5 hours of hiking, including 1.5 hours of breaks, having crushed the last 7.5 km and 950 m of elevation gain in barely 1.5 hours.

After soaking up the crowd along the Rim, we take a free shuttle. On the way, we spot a few deer, then stop randomly at one of the viewpoints to watch the sunset while sipping an IPA.

All three of us fulfilled a childhood dream by descending to the bottom of the Grand Canyon.

The South Kaibab Trail lived up to our expectations 😇, but the Bright Angel Trail fell short. The latter is more about the athletic challenge than the scenery. It’s worth doing once in a lifetime, but I definitely won’t be doing it again—unlike the South Kaibab, which I’d happily hike the full length round-trip in a day.

Over time, I’ve come to think it’s me who’s not normal, getting excited over a few colorful rocks

Finally, a flash of lucidity 😂😂😂😂

You know, when I wrote that sentence, I had a feeling you’d react...😉😏

Personally, I think these rocks are stunning, and like you, I’d never get tired of them 😊 Once again, congrats on the performance 👏—and Sullivan, what kind of feedback did he get about this day since it was his day? 🤔

And Sullivan, what did he say about that day since it was his day?

Sullivan ranked this day in his trip’s Top 3, even though Franck tried to "sell" him his Sidestep Canyon, and I tried to push my famous White Pocket! 😏 It was the only site on our itinerary he already knew—probably explains why!

What incredible colors and landscapes at the Grand Canyon! Nothing like the haze we had at the end of July 2023. I stopped at Cedar Ridge, and the boys were happy just going to Skeleton Point, like you mentioned in the summer.

Cool, there might be a travel journal coming soon...😛

Cool, there might be a travel journal coming up...😛

For now, I'm writing the one about Norway in 2022, but after that... Why not!😄

Your photos make me want to go back!

The Needles was a real highlight for us. I’ll have to show you the famous “hamburger” you missed. 😉

So many stunning landscapes, so many beautiful photos, so many trails hiked... We’re ready to hit the road again for that "Cinemascope America" we miss so much.

Thanks for this travel journal! !

Hi Milena,

I booked a 7-seater TAHOE in ALBUQUERQUE with AVIS from December 26, 24 to December 31, 24 in LAS VEGAS for 796 € 😉

Thanks Manu for this encouraging message!

Hi Guillaume,

Reading the stories of the "must-sees of the American West" is such an enchanting escape—it gives me some truly great moments. You’re living a dream that, sadly, isn’t possible for us anymore, but thanks to your writing and the photos that make me go "wow" every time, I get to experience a little bit of "this trip" vicariously.

Thanks so much, and I can’t wait for the next part of the journey! 😏 Roberto

Hi Roberto, I’m happy to help you discover some lesser-known spots in the West—gorgeous but often physically demanding. More details coming soon...

10/04/2022: Day 12 - Hopi and Navajo Day Sharon Fredericks, our Hopi guide, bailed on us, so we’re questioning our plans for the day this morning. We’d booked the morning with Sharon to visit Ha Ho No Geh, Blue Canyon, and possibly "Red Lake," a colorful rocky area just north of Blue Canyon.

Without a guide, we’re really not keen on going to Blue Canyon alone—it’s a sacred site for the Hopi—despite Sharon’s email giving us permission to visit these sites on our own. If local law enforcement checks, we’re not sure that email would save us from a hefty fine or even having our cameras confiscated ...

So, we decide to skip Blue Canyon. To replace it, I suggest to my buddies that we head to a little-known viewpoint—a photogenic canyon I spotted on Google Earth—still in Hopi territory but requiring a 6 km (round trip) approach hike. Since I’d heard Sharon was a bit lazy, I hadn’t even suggested it to her because the 12 km hike would’ve taken up the whole morning, cutting into our Blue Canyon time...

We take the track and park along it at the closest point to the canyon. We’re lucky—our car isn’t visible from Highway 264, so we reduce the chance of an unpleasant surprise when we return. Still, to minimize risks, we decide to go in jogging mode and ultra-light! No bags, no water, just our phones, and me with my DSLR and only two lenses! The run isn’t easy—the ground is pretty soft, and we force ourselves to stick to the carefully planned route to avoid detouring around a canyon that looked impassable during prep. After a few kms of jogging, we take a break at this canyon—already a nice surprise!



Then, we reach the start of the famous canyon, and a few hundred meters later, we arrive at an incredibly photogenic area with countless hoodoos and teepee-shaped rocks in two-tone shades of cream and ochre! It’s stunning !



A few yellowish rocks complete this unique scene. In the background, you can make out the characteristic rocks of Ha Ho No Geh Canyon, which we’ll visit later.





We know it’s possible to go to the bottom of the canyon, but we’ll stick to the rim—it’s enough for the time we’ve allowed ourselves here.

On the way back, thirst starts to hit hard, but we eventually find our Tahoe, thankfully untouched and with no welcoming committee! We then head to Ha Ho No Geh Canyon to check out all the viewpoints visible from the track.

Here’s a shot of the characteristic badlands in the area, thanks to my 70-200 zoom lens.



Back on Route 264, we drive a few miles before turning off to Coal Mine Canyon, this time located in Navajo land. We’re relaxed this time since we have a day permit!

Coal Mine Canyon bears a strong resemblance to Ha Ho no Geh. Not surprising, really, since these two canyons are neighbors, even if they belong to different Native American communities.



Beige, ochre, and yellow hues are joined by varying shades of gray. It’s a truly unique landscape—nothing quite like it in the Southwest! 🙂

After all these Hopi and Navajo canyons, we decide to switch things up and head to several bends of the Little Colorado River, also located in Navajo land.

Along the way, we stop at Balanced Rocks and its star attraction, Globe Rock (N36.02136° W111.19223°), which unfortunately has been tagged . There’s always some idiot out there ready to cause trouble...



To reach the 5 bends of the Little Colorado on our itinerary, we first have to drive 30 km on a road whose condition we don’t know. In the end, no problem—the road is very smooth, except toward the end where you need to be a bit more careful.

The first viewpoint is Hellhole Bend, the most impressive of the bends we’ll see today. The photos, taken facing west, don’t do justice to the afternoon light—we should’ve gone in the morning.

Then, a few miles north, First Bend. The water is still that chocolatey color, the same one that would’ve greeted us at the bottom of the Hopi Salt Trail 😕!

Second Bend looks a lot like First Bend. Only the curve of Third Bend is wider.

As we head north, the road becomes less and less visible. The Covid years must’ve allowed the vegetation to take over. It’s tricky to make progress, even though there aren’t any sharp rocks. It’s already 6 PM when we leave Third Bend and decide to skip Fourth Bend, which would require a 10 km round-trip detour with slow going. No regrets, though—we’ve really enjoyed this area.

Time for us to get back on US 89 and return to Kanab, where we’d already been at the start of our trip. Nobody feels like camping, so we book a motel room and grab a burger at one of the town’s fast-food spots.

Debriefing our day, we realize the hiccup from our guide didn’t impact us too much—we happily swapped Blue Canyon for this hidden gem, one of the most photogenic spots in the Southwest! 😎 Plus, after all the effort of the past few days, this low-key transition day with little walking did us good...!