Part 5: Return to Santiago

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Last domestic flight, it's 2 pm, the sky is overcast. Forty-five minutes later, the wheels touch down on the tarmac at Praia Airport. The taxi driver insists on taking us to Tarrafal, but no—he drops us off near the Sucupira market to catch an aluguer.
There are tons of people heading that way, a real buzz in the air, and we have to wait for the second van to board. Once I’ve forbidden the driver from tying our bags directly to the roof with a piece of string (the bags will pay for an inside seat but will be saved...)
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We cross the island from south to north—the road, about sixty kilometers long, is a rollercoaster through the mountains, but the surrounding peaks are stunning. The driver drops us off in the city center.
Thanks to a great last-minute deal on Booking, I’d reserved a superb apartment in one of Tarrafal’s finest hotels, with a view of the main beach and the port.
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We loved the vibe in Tarrafal. It’s a human-scale town, with almost no tourists, and a laid-back life where you can stroll, relax, and chat with the locals. The hotel’s location is perfect, with plenty of restaurants—both touristy and local.
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We spent our last three days in Cape Verde here, lulled by the waves and the comings and goings of the fishermen.



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On the second day, I took a trip to the Ponta Preta lighthouse—a gorgeous 10 km round-trip hike along the coast, with natural pools at the end (pretty hard to access and often full of sea urchins). The heat made the walk even tougher.
Our last evening, by sheer luck, there was a village festival. We dined to the sounds of a batuque troupe—energetic singing and dancing typical of Santiago.
Here, everything ends with music!

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Now it’s time to head home. Our TAP flight to Lisbon is scheduled for noon, so a taxi takes us (for 50 €) to the airport, stopping for a few photos along the way—something you couldn’t do in an aluguer.
