Breathtaking Kyrgyzstan! (page 6 of 16)

( Biking? I'm hopeless—I learned too late! )

You still have training wheels!

Almost !

Hey Perju, I have the same issue—here’s how I fix it. Before editing the message, I click on "Preview" then scroll back down to the writing area and it works.

You're in a rut 😏

I spotted an interesting cemetery not too far from our accommodation—this new day starts with a visit to the departed.







While Kyrgyz towns and villages are pretty ugly, their necropolises are fascinating.

We’re now taking the impeccable track climbing toward the Kumtor mine, Kara-Say, and—with more difficulty—China.

Most tourists stop at the waterfalls before turning back, but it wasn’t those cascades that drew us here.

So we keep going, and the road soon starts winding.

One truck to pass, a second, a tenth... Is this gold mine *that* busy?

Huh, some license plates are Chinese! Yet Kumtor belongs to Canadians?

The deposit that accounted for 8.5% of Kyrgyzstan’s GDP in 2018 turns out not to be responsible for this heavy traffic.

The real culprit is the China Road and Bridge Corporation, which has started major construction to build a new access road between Kyrgyzstan and Xinjiang.

But we’ll figure that out a bit later when we see the workers' villages, factories, and especially the tunnel.

The problem with the trucks isn’t just the dust. It’s also that we don’t want to stop for fear they’ll all pass us again...

Once we reach the Sary-Moynok Pass, we forget our fears and go admire the view.







3,442 meters—and we’re not done yet!



The track then descends slightly into the high Arabel Valley—we’re taking it all in!







Near the power station, a new track branches off to the left—that’s where we need to turn.

We're now on the gravel road leading to the mine—there's no one around!



Well, almost no one...



I came for that sense of infinity—I’m not disappointed!



A "no entry" sign blocks the road near the gold mine. Should we turn back or keep exploring via the track suggested in our paper guide?

The second option wins unanimously, and the RAV4 heads onto a less defined path—sometimes trickier.

I hope the bridge marked on the map is still there...









Phew!



A perfect spot for a picnic, don’t you think?

Our presence startles the marmots, which whistle at each other before darting off to hide.

We won’t disturb the herds, though—they haven’t moved up to the summer pastures yet.





After crossing the river, the road churned up by the Chinese isn’t far off.

We find it again after the Söök Pass, 4,028 meters high—the toughest part of the day.



All the construction (and destruction) efforts are focused here.

To avoid snow and avalanches, engineers came up with the idea of digging a tunnel under the mountain.

Machinery is hard at work on both sides, carving ruts into a road already weakened by the rains.

The route might be beautiful once finished—even if it signals the end of an era for lovers of nearly untouched landscapes—but for now, what a nightmare!

A little over an hour later, the waterfall parking lot welcomes us with open arms.

The full hike is way too long, so we settle for a short walk to the nearest one.



A bit underwhelming after the landscapes we’ve seen today...

Gorgeous landscapes indeed 🤩 The Chinese are everywhere and disfigure everything in their path for their personal gain at the expense of the locals 😞

Just so you know: The mine has changed ownership. Wikipedia isn’t up to date.

The mine is operated by Kumtor Gold Company, which is 100% owned by Kyrgyzaltyn, a Kyrgyz state-owned company. In 2021, the Kyrgyz government placed the mine under external administration, removing control from the Canadian company Centerra Gold following a long-standing dispute, particularly over environmental and tax issues. In 2022, a final agreement ended the dispute: Centerra Gold relinquished all its interests in Kumtor, and Kyrgyzaltyn became the sole shareholder of Kumtor Gold Company.

https://www.kumtor.kg/en/deposit/history/ In one of the articles, you’ll understand the presence of the Chinese neighbors.

Thanks for all these details! 🙂

The paper guide I used isn’t any more up-to-date than Wikipedia. Maybe the new edition has taken this change into account.

As for the Chinese, they’re colonizing Asia like they are Africa in their own way.🤪

They’ve also colonized us, by the way (Shein, Temu, and pretty much all our consumer goods...)😕

We’re reluctantly leaving our little cabin to head to our next stop, Kotchkor.

What if we took a back road instead of braving that awful construction road again?

The parallel track starts just after the village of Tosor, and at first, it shares the same path as the one crossing the famous Tosor Pass—a route most car rental companies ban.

It’s not in great shape and pretty narrow. Let’s hope we don’t run into too many vehicles!

A fork in the road.

To the left, the trail climbs toward the pass; to the right, it heads toward Bokonbaevo.

Right it is!

We’re now crossing Kyrgyzstan’s agricultural heartland—villages, fields, and pastures.









Not a single tourist in sight, no minibuses offering guided tours—this is the complete opposite of Jety-Oguz.

We stock up on groceries at the Globus in Bokonbaevo and have lunch with our haul.

This sad excuse for a sausage is nearly inedible, but the yogurt fares slightly better.



The ingredients in both are pretty questionable—you’d need an iron stomach around here...

After our picnic, we’re temporarily back among the frantic Chinese construction machines.

Let’s get out of this nightmare and onto the trail of the forgotten canyons!

We struggle a bit to find the entrance—the village of Ak-Sai has been torn apart by excavators, and one-way streets are piling up.

The start of the trail isn’t all that spectacular, but the rest is definitely worth the detour!





We then emerge on the shores of Lake Issyk-Kul.

This area has remained more or less wild—a pretty decent spot for a bivouac.

I spot a path on Maps.me that leads to a viewpoint over the canyons.

Shall we go for it?



The trail quickly gains elevation, offering lovely views of the lake.



Then we reach the top of a hill—and wow, what a sight.

What a stunning view!







A trail follows the ridgeline—we head onto it.



The void on the right, the void on the left—I’m not feeling very reassured.

I even had to overcome a little bout of vertigo there, something that had never happened to me before.





I later found out this viewpoint is an Instagram spot.

It hasn’t yet fallen victim to its own fame, and the site’s foot traffic remains pretty reasonable.



Plus, there are few takers for the dizzying trail.



Only two Instagrammers followed in our footsteps while about ten other people were around.

On the way back, a family asks us if the effort is worth it.

In Russian, then in English.

For sure, as they say...

She then asks about our nationality, and the couple’s daughter starts exchanging a few words in French, quite proud.

We ask them in turn where they’re from.

And then, a long silence...

They all look at each other, lower their eyes, and finally mutter, "Russian."

Why be ashamed? A people isn’t its tyrant.

To get back to the main road, we follow the lakeshore instead of retracing the canyon trail.

Housing is being built everywhere.

More niche tourism than mass tourism!



We’re now heading toward Kochkor, finally leaving the construction behind.

This town is a major hub for hikers and horseback riders alike.

You’ll find plenty of accommodations, several restaurants, gas stations, and grocery stores.

For the night, we choose this guesthouse: a parking lot, no noise, a recently furnished room, a private bathroom—perfect for the price we paid.

For dinner, we’re less lucky.

The food isn’t terrible, but it’s best to avoid ordering wine...

The menu says "Kyrgyz wine." Why not?

The waitress brings us two glasses filled with a red liquid.

I take a sip—I don’t recognize the drink...

The stuff served isn’t corked or oxidized, but it doesn’t taste like anything familiar.

It’s rather sweet, similar to a slightly alcoholic cherry juice.

We won’t be ordering another round...

Well... The training in Haute-Savoie is clearly the better option... Darn, I thought you were blonde... 😇 For the sausage, you're awfully picky 😏 The wine was exactly like what I experienced in Mongolia, in a small village called "Biger," I think. We were stuck there because of a sanitary zone due to the plague... To cheer ourselves up, we found what was supposedly wine in a local shop—nice bottles, nice labels, and it even said "wine" on them... Well, yes, it was red fruit wine, but not really fermented or distilled... 😄

PS: The Russians really don’t have to feel guilty... The Ukrainian regime, its leaders, and all those responsible at any level are by far among the most corrupt in the world.

I didn't get the last chapter!

( We didn’t go back for that sausage—the fake chorizo was more drinkable...)

( This spot is in my top 5 of the trip, I think! 😛)

What event takes place every Saturday in Kochkor?

The big livestock market!

What day is it today?

Saturday, of course!

The market takes place outside the city, and judging by the traffic and the number of parked cars, there are still plenty of people around despite the slightly late hour.

Animals are the stars of the sales, even though other products are on display: fruits, vegetables, clothes, saddles, and all sorts of useful bits and bobs for herders.



They don’t mix: cows with cows, sheep with sheep, horses with horses.







Women are pretty rare but not nonexistent—it’s still mostly a man’s world!

Only one group of tourists mixes with the livestock traders; it’s not yet time for this market to sell nothing but dubious souvenirs.

Don’t expect to find Kyrgyz people in traditional clothing here—you’re a few years too late for that.

All that remains of yesterday’s outfits is the hat, and even that’s fading!

It’s a livestock market like those still found in Aubrac, the only difference being that Sandrine Rousseau would feel even more out of place here.

We avoid cow pats and horse droppings, admire the sheep’s well-trimmed rumps, and leave amused.

We now take the impeccable road toward Naryn.

A mountain pass, a few flashed headlights to warn us about speed cameras, and then it’s time to leave the tarmac for the dirt track of the 33 Parrots Pass.

Parrots?

It’s actually the number of hairpin turns you have to tackle to reach the pass.

Since the hairpin bends resemble the beak of this bird, that’s how it got its name!

This track crosses stunning landscapes, and despite the less-than-ideal weather, we’re dazzled.



The range of greens catches the eye, and our hands itch to stroke the grasslands that look like giant velvet carpets.









The track is pretty easy on flat ground but gets trickier with the turns.

Nothing too complicated with a high-clearance car, but I can imagine a few cold sweats in a regular one.



We’ve now reached the tipping point.

We’re about to discover Son-Kul Lake soon.

The yurts, the herds, the green landscapes, the mountains—everything is just as I’d imagined, or almost.

Only the cold is missing; in the middle of the afternoon, it’s just cool.

We follow the southern shore of the lake to our reserved camp.





The call of a little comfort was too strong, so we gave in to the "tourist version" of nomadic living.

The inside of the yurt is pretty nice—there’s electricity and heating.





The toilets and bathroom, however, are shared.

Very clean, though.

The staff warns us that hot water runs on solar power, and if we want any, now’s the time to shower.

Oh well, we’ll do without it! !

Let's go for a walk to the lake instead!

Edelweiss carpets the meadow, and so do the cow pats.









The driest ones will soon be collected by the stove attendant—they’ll fuel the stoves!

A bit of relaxation and it's apéro time.



We came prepared—it would’ve been a shame to toast with tea here...

The camp has a lovely common room with a view of the lake, where dinner is served.



A meager and expensive dinner—better to bring your own supplies!

The wind has picked up now, and temperatures are dropping.

We head back to our yurt, which has turned into a sauna thanks to the dung...

Ps: Indeed, Russians don’t have to feel guilty... the Ukrainian regime, its leaders, and all those responsible at any level are by far among the most corrupt in the world.

Esantra, get out of this body 😉 (or at least add a smiley for the passing reader). For the record, corruption ranking of the belligerents: Ukraine 104th, Russia 157th.

@Attila So you share with Michel a passion for taphophilia.

The cemeteries around here are really something else! 😛