Off to explore Egypt! (page 6 of 6)

Day 14 (continued)



But this return on investment, by definition, requires an... investment! Because I’ll admit, we’ve really pushed it these past few days, especially with our two teens who’ve been tagging along since the start of our adventure without a peep. Early wake-ups, overnight buses, marathon days, nighttime treks... "Way to go, girls, you’ve earned your backpacking badge!" So once Karnak was in the rearview mirror, we headed back to our nest for some much-needed shut-eye.

We didn’t emerge refreshed until midday, ready to face the souk vendors’ gang again. But to get there, don’t underestimate the calèche drivers’ gang—they can’t fathom why any sane person would stoop to walking a few hundred meters on two legs. And to even *reach* them, you’ve got to pass the boatmen’s level first—once they drop you off on one bank, they’re obsessed with taking you right back to the other side... And I won’t even get into the taxi drivers, tissue sellers, impromptu guides, euro exchangers, tuk-tuk drivers, shoe shiners, or restaurant touts who shove menus in your face with prices that change based on your nationality... In short, Luxor’s east bank is the epicenter of solicitation—if not outright scams!







On this east bank, if you’ve been keeping up with our little escapades, besides Karnak and the souk, we find the Temple of Amun at Luxor at the other end of the Avenue of Sphinxes, where we’re headed this late afternoon. Why go in the late afternoon? Clever trick: Unlike all other ancient Egyptian sites, this temple stays open after sunset to don a stunning light display. You wander its halls in daylight, then patiently wait for the artificial lights to take over as the muezzin’s call to prayer echoes... and at the same time, every tour operator dumps their herds of sheep-like tourists, hypnotically following their leader waving a stick with a stuffed toy on the end as their badge of belonging. And what a herd it is!

Day 14 (continued)





Too much for us—after a thorough investigation, we can’t find any trace of magic here anymore... So long, temple! And goodbye, Luxor, we’re leaving with our eyes full of hieroglyphs and our mouths feeling like hot-air balloons. The evening and night will either unfold on a bus or not at all—back to the source, heading to Cairo!

Really nice photos, Franck! :) Looks like your Chinese getaway is coming up soon!

Great photos Franck :) Your Chinese trip is coming up soon, it seems!

Thanks Pascale! Leaving the day after tomorrow, so I’ll post the end of this Egyptian adventure tomorrow!

February 23 - Day 15

The longest day, the day of disembarking... in Cairo, and without John Wayne for one last morning on the spot before catching our return flight in the afternoon, with our eyes, hearts, and memory boxes packed to the brim!

How to spend half a day in Cairo to wrap up this spontaneous trip in the best way possible? An AI would surely answer "the old Egyptian Museum in Tahrir Square"! Well, isn’t that convenient—it’s exactly what we had planned! Yeah, you noticed, I’m working on my transitions...



So, we’re in the starting blocks at the opening of this legendary museum, which is packed with thousands of artifacts from ancient Egypt, including the undisputed star: the fabulous 10-kilogram pure gold mask of Tutankhamun! At least for a few more months, since all the treasure discovered in his tomb will be displayed starting next July at the GEM, the new Grand Egyptian Museum located in Giza, which is currently only partially open. And let’s be clear—when we say it’s Tutankhamun’s mask, we’re using his stage name, because it’s been proven that the mask and all the treasure that went with it were originally meant for his sister, the pharaoh Merytaton.

Day 15 (continued)

But the real debate is elsewhere because the hourglass of our adventure is running dangerously low. That’s why we’re focusing on the museum’s most iconic pieces: mummies, pharaohs’ treasures, royal sarcophagi, imposing statues... And just when the crowd gets so loud it’s deafening, we pack up for our Uber and head to Sphinx International Airport. Stop at the port, stop at the port of Cairo—two-minute stop! The airport, by the way, was the most disorganized and archaic we’ve ever seen. During our trip in Egypt, one in every two men we met was named Mohamed. It’s wild because the guys at the airport all go by Jean-Michel Apeuprès! You’d think it was their first day on the job—they openly argue, give us contradictory instructions, and check our stuff every ten feet...

Anyway, we’re not ending our adventure on that note. How about a little recap of our Egyptian wanderings instead? Yeah, Goldorak go! From reading our previous fourteen days and the photos that back them up, you’ve probably gathered that we *loved* every day here. The enchanting weather gave us a much-needed burst of warmth in the middle of France’s freezing winter, the cost of a popcorn at Gaumont Cinema could feed four of us for two weeks, and we felt a deep sense of zen the moment we stepped left or right off the beaten tourist path. The tombs and monuments of ancient Egypt were more pharaonic than the pharaohs themselves, the mountain and desert landscapes were breathtakingly vast, the cities were bustling and lively just how I like them, the river had a timeless vibe, and the people were friendly, smiling, and welcoming as soon as we ventured away from the tourist hotspots. Because you’ve probably noticed too—this is the one thing that can be a bit annoying at the must-see spots where you’ll inevitably be targeted: the Egyptians’ relationship with money, which can make it hard to enjoy some sites in peace. We’re not complaining, though—first, because we usually got up before the roosters (and the Egyptians) to avoid them. Second, because we were prepared: *"If a big guy tries to sell you his papyrus, just say ‘La choukrane!’"* Despite that, the feeling of being ripped off often lingers and makes it hard to trust in certain situations. Another tip to dodge the pushy touts: put on sunglasses and keep walking like you can’t hear them, even if it comes off as rude. If they catch your eye or you respond, you’re in for a slow, painful death!!! But that little pebble in the shoe shouldn’t overshadow the forest—the forest is just too beautiful...

Thanks Franck for this travel journal—always such a pleasure to read.

The monuments already look amazing in photos, so I can only imagine how impressive they must be in person. Though I have to admit, the constant hustling might still spoil the trip a little, even if I’m prepared for it 😕

Have a great trip to China 😉

Thanks so much, Frank, for this awesome travel journal 🤗... it makes me really want to go back 😊. Have a great trip to China—I bet it’ll be another really unique one 😁

Thanks so much, Frank, for this amazing travel journal 🤩... it makes me want to go back so badly 😊 Have a great trip in China—I bet it’ll be another unique adventure! 😁

Let’s go! You to Egypt, and me to China! 😛

Thanks Franck for this travel journal—always such a pleasure to read.

The monuments already look amazing in photos, so I can only imagine how impressive they must be in person. Still, I have to admit that the constant hustling might put a bit of a damper on the trip, even if I’m prepared for it 😕

Have a great trip to China 😉

What there is to see makes it worth pushing past those annoyances, especially if you do what we did to avoid them...

Thanks for this Egyptian travel journal and... have a great trip in China

Well, you’ve really made me want to go back to Egypt! 😉

For China, though, you’ll have to be *very* convincing...

Have a great trip!

Still so great to follow your adventures, Franck. Your travel journals are one of a kind. I can't wait for the China one and your thoughts on the destination! In the meantime, I'll be following your Namibian footsteps in a week. No need to pretend to get lost on private lands—I can just say I'm looking for Franck and Flo ;)

Thanks again, Franck, for sharing that magical trip with your hilarious writing style, and enjoy your Chinese adventure! 😁😂

Thanks for this Egypt travel journal. Some classics... but not just that!

Feeling like going back already...

And thanks for that one too! We also did the Nile felucca trip and stopped at the livestock market in Daraw. A great moment. Thanks for the reminder. And what about the hilarity of the felucca sailors when they discovered the beanies we’d slept in (it was February and the nights were pretty chilly). I think they’d never seen any before, and we made their day.