Four-Week Journey Through Southern Thailand and Angkor (page 6 of 12)

08/03/2013

To test the quality of the information provided by the hotel, we asked the reception how to reach Kao Takiab, the "Monkey Hill" located a few kilometers south of the city center, in the cheapest way possible. Of course, they rushed to hail a taxi for us. We declined. It’s exactly what we thought—nothing beats the well-informed advice and experience of some members of this forum. Especially since taxis aren’t as cheap as in Bangkok. That’s why we walked to the square in front of the night market, where all you have to do is take the green songtaew, a shared taxi that drops you off nearby for the modest price of 10 baht per person—one way, no need to exaggerate... We read so many posts, spend so much time preparing, but it’s reassuring in unfamiliar territory to sometimes know where you’re going and how to get there...

There are two hills close to each other; you need to go to the one overlooking the fishing village. You can’t go wrong—the sea is at the end of this hill.

Of course, we first climbed the other one. There’s still a temple with a viewpoint. Hardly a soul around. A few statues, a pond with fish, and a view of the surroundings.



We now know it’s the other rocky summit we were looking for. Come on, one more climb up the steps in the heat. We’d barely started when we found ourselves going against a whole troop of macaques. They seemed in a hurry to rush down the steps. Oh right, there’s a Thai on the beach with his bucket of supplies. The place is swarming with monkeys—the show never stops. Every vendor on-site has a stick or a slingshot. Slingshot vs. cheeky monkeys. Of course, there’s a temple at the top; naturally, you get a view of the sea and the city’s beachfront. But it’s the macaques that really grab our attention—they’re funny without even trying. We’re very careful; with these animals, their wild side comes out fast.



We had lunch outdoors nearby, planning to head to the floating market a few kilometers southwest of the city. Unfortunately, the taxis there were charging too much, and we already knew the budget would be blown.

So we spent the afternoon strolling along the coast and, among other things, watching the fishermen.



We also went to the store called "Silk Village" on Naebkhean Road, just a few hundred meters north of the city center. Very disappointing—a bit of a posh vibe, rough silk to the touch, outdated designs. On our way back to the city center, we stopped at a small, modern-looking bakery/tea salon, a hangout for well-off people, judging by the clientele. Surprisingly, we had some amazing café crèmes there.

Finally, we couldn’t resist going back to the night market in the evening to eat street food and people-watch. So alike, yet so different...

Hi there,

Thanks for this travel journal that takes us off the beaten path. It’s really lovely. I’m following each episode as they’re published. As for the langurs, how can you not fall in love with them? Just for them, I feel like going. Plus, unlike macaques, they seem so peaceful.

Awesome!!!

What a trip! And what meticulous work to let us enjoy your experience... Bravo, and see you soon for the next part.

Bruno

What a pleasure to read you! This journal is so well-written. Your style is really enjoyable. The various adventures are recounted with just the right amount of detachment and perspective, never letting frustration creep in.

On top of that, it’s packed with precise, easy-to-use information and makes you want to visit some of these places. The photos are perfectly chosen to illustrate the text. Your work almost deserves to be published... Keep up the great work with the rest of your project, and I look forward to reading more from you.

08/04/2013

For a change of pace once again, we take the big bus heading to Bangkok. Still those sweet prices for public transport. Since we had no other choice, we resorted to two motorcycle taxis after being dropped off at the edge of the expressway. It turned out to be a great experience. The fare was reasonable, the guys were friendly. Since they weave through traffic everywhere, we moved quickly, and the heat felt temporarily less intense.

In Phetchaburi, we chose the Sun Hotel, which has the advantage of being at the foot of the hill where various monuments stand, including Phra Nakhon Khiri, the former summer residence of the king. It's a simple hotel, 24 € with breakfast, but quite decent. We had lunch there before our visits, and the food was pretty good.

We always try to include one or two stops in our trips that guidebooks only dedicate a single page—or even just a dozen lines—to. But these are authentic stops that offer enough interest to spend a day or two. That was the case last year in Vietnam with Quy Nhon. It’s a bit of a gamble—you have to do some research but also trust your instincts a little.

Since we only had the day, we headed straight on foot to Khao Wang hill. To avoid more stairs, we took the funicular for 40 baht. The 150 baht entrance fee seemed a bit steep. The plateau is spacious, and aside from the summer residence, there are chedis, a temple, and a museum. They’re connected by paved paths that wind up and down through the greenery. And of course, there’s a beautiful view of the city and the surrounding area.



Here too, hordes of macaques, a little wilder than elsewhere, it seems. We didn’t take any chances. Given the many signs warning to be careful, we guessed that occasionally tourists make the wrong moves and end up with painful memories. Still, we really enjoyed watching them roam freely.



We negotiated a tuk-tuk at the exit of the site and were lucky to find a very friendly driver. We asked him to take us five kilometers north to the Khao Luang Cave. This cave is in a hill also populated by a good number of monkeys. It’s worth noting that the entrance is free. Really surprising, since the place is definitely worth a visit. It’s a huge cave with 170 Buddhas. Some are lit up, and the whole setting is stunning. There’s a large reclining Buddha at the end, and if you go further, you reach a second cave with ancient statues. A truly beautiful discovery, barely mentioned anywhere else.



This city still has six major temples, two of which are quite well-known. Spending a day—or even a day and a half—in Phetchaburi isn’t a waste of time at all. We were only able to visit Wat Yai Suwannaram. It’s a varied but interesting complex. We’ll remember its beautiful and authentic temple, the quirky pagoda on a small pond, its playful dog families, and its monk school.



At the exit, the driver was waiting for us. We had clearly dismissed him when we arrived, explaining that we’d walk back to the city center. But we melted when we saw the hopeful look in his eyes—we might have been his only customers of the day. He was happy to take us to the market. We wandered around curiously, once again stopping for cold drinks and pineapple.



That evening, as we circled the hill to return to the hotel, we couldn’t help but notice that this neighborhood had nothing to envy Lopburi. The macaques were everywhere—in the streets, on balconies, and rooftops. Near a park, we found ourselves right next to a heated argument between two of them. Suddenly, dozens of monkeys were running around us, some fighting, others completely panicked. We retreated as discreetly as possible. A few meters further, a Thai woman who was leaning her bike against a wall had her k-way snatched from the rack. The little thief was pleased with its catch, and no—absolutely not, it wasn’t giving it back!

We were really happy we took the chance and spent a full day in such a charming setting.

Thanks for my daily dose of sunshine in this November gloom! You don’t know it, but I’ve been tagging along quietly, tucked away in your bag... This cave looks stunning. I’m saving it!

How will I survive when you head back to Suvarnabhumi? Thank you, thank you!

A little dream in this harsh world... It's always a real pleasure to read your posts. I'm flying out on 12/12, and reading you all helps me wait patiently. Have a great day and thanks again! 🙂

Hi Joel, I’m reading your daily travel journal with great pleasure—pure bliss!

I have a financial question: what do you estimate the cost of your trip was?

We’re planning to spend 7 weeks in Thailand and don’t want to spend more than 2000 €. Do you think that’s enough based on your travel style and experience?

I’m taking notes on your recommendations...

Thanks in advance!

Best regards,

Brigitte

hi,

2,000 € for two people for 7 weeks? That’s tight even without the flights.

JP

Hi there, and thanks!

It all depends on a lot of factors. If you travel at a different time, the flight can cost anywhere from 900 to 1200 €. If you take the train instead of a plane to get to Paris, you save 50%. If you don’t fly to Siem Reap, you save 90%. You can choose budget hotels or guest houses without ending up in a dump. For some visits or transport, walking, renting bikes, or scooters cuts costs significantly. Even for food, by avoiding fancy-looking places, you can get by on very little—especially street food. The rest depends on how many sites you plan to visit and sometimes how accessible they are. But others have covered all these topics in much more detail in other discussions you’ll easily find on this site.

Sorry... I didn’t explain that well—it’s without flights and per person!!!!

4,000 € without flights is totally doable.

Last January, 22 days as a couple cost us 3,200 € all in: flights from France to Bangkok and domestic flights. So less than half of that for living, accommodation, sightseeing, scooter rental, and miscellaneous shopping.

And we didn’t hold back.

But we didn’t stay in fancy hotels every night. Some guest houses are really affordable and super clean.

You're right, we must have hit that total for barely a longer duration. And like Jean-Pierre said, without depriving ourselves. We could've easily spent 500 € to 600 € less (300 € for lodging, 150 € for food, and the same for certain transport choices made for convenience) without too much trouble. At the same time, when you spend the rest of the year working your butt off, if you don’t let loose a little during vacation, you’d die frustrated! !

Thanks everyone for your tips...

Now I’m planning my itinerary... not easy either!

See you soon...

Hi Joël, Following your story about your time in Phetchaburi, we went to visit the Khao Luang cave. We can confirm it’s absolutely stunning—there’s so much serenity in that place. The town itself also deserves a full day; there are lots of magnificent temples and a royal palace—yet another one! At the cave entrance, we bought a bag of offerings that included two bottles of water and one orange Fanta. I was holding it when suddenly a monkey snatched it from me, grabbed the Fanta, and ran off. It bit into the plastic bottle and drank by sucking through the hole—the Buddha only got the water! Thanks again for your story—it gave us some clearer ideas for outings. In early December, we’ll be heading to Bang Saphan, and we’ve added to this trip by checking out the Tokara website. Best regards

08/05/2013

It’s the minibus that’ll take us to Bangkok. The first three seats at the front are reserved for two monks who are also making the trip. One of them is a bit on the heavy side, but shhh, we shouldn’t say that. We’re suddenly back in the heart of the capital, with all the hustle and bustle, traffic, and people everywhere. It feels strange after all that peace and quiet we’d been enjoying. Still, it’s vacation time, it’s Bangkok, and with a full itinerary ahead of us, we’re feeling relaxed.

A taxi takes us to Lamphu Tree House, chosen because it’s neither too close nor too far from some of the places we wanted to visit. Almost everyone who’d stayed there seemed to like it. That wasn’t *quite* our impression, though. Not that we were disappointed, but we weren’t exactly thrilled either. We’d booked relatively early on their website, but in the end, our room was in the second building. So, not on-site for the pool or breakfast. It’s only a three-minute walk, not really a hassle. The pool is pretty small—if there are already a few kids, you can forget about swimming. Otherwise, no complaints: the hotel is comfortable and well-maintained, with a fruit basket at the entrance replenished daily and nice decor. Khao San is nearby, and the neighborhood isn’t unpleasant. Let’s just say that if you’re looking for a bigger pool and don’t want to hear too much French at breakfast, you’ll find better value for money—or even cheaper—in another area.

After what would be our last check-in, we walk to the In Love restaurant, passing by the Thewet flower market toward the end. There’s a large terrace overlooking the Chao Phraya, and you can’t deny it’s pleasant. For our part, we found the welcome frosty. And where are the checkered tablecloths and high-tech decor promised by the *Guide du Routard*, which has been recommending this place for years? The food was good, but nothing extraordinary. All in all, a bit of a letdown given our expectations.

Still, we’re recharged for an afternoon of exploring. Just a few steps away, you can cross a canal via a small bridge, and there’s a large temple whose roofs we’d spotted on the way. Too bad we didn’t write it down—it must be the temple with the most unpronounceable name in all of Bangkok. We take our time visiting; it’s nice. We’re joined by a group of young people coming to receive teachings from a monk.



Right next door is a museum we don’t visit, but there are some lovely statues outside.



Now well-practiced, we happily take the river shuttle to visit Wat Pho, which we’d already seen several years ago. It’s crowded, and it’s tricky to take photos of the large reclining Buddha. Couldn’t they expand the building a bit? It’s so cramped!



We’ve barely started walking around outside when the rain starts pouring. After days of empty threats, this time we’re getting the real deal. It’s almost closing time anyway, so no point insisting. A bit of a shame, since this temple is truly one of Thailand’s highlights.



We’re having a harder time than usual finding a taxi willing to take us, and when things don’t go your way, they just don’t. We wanted to dine at the restaurant *Once Upon a Time*, which we remembered fondly from a previous visit. It’s way on the other side of the city. Traffic is heavy everywhere, and even the elevated expressway is jammed. Later, we’d learn that protests were expected, and the police had closed several major roads. On top of that, our driver couldn’t find the restaurant toward the end. And so began the back-and-forth, asking for directions from people who either didn’t know or seemed to—but didn’t—a phone call that led nowhere. After an hour and a half in the taxi, we’re fuming and give up. We wander around Siam Square, but none of the restaurants along the way appeal to us. We end up choosing one out of desperation—no need to promote it here.

No point lingering—after three weeks, we’ve walked billions of steps and climbed millions of stairs. We’ve got a big visit planned for tomorrow, and we’re starting to feel tired. Off to bed! Fingers crossed the weather’s nice tomorrow!

Lucky monks... They always get the best seats on buses, planes, and in airport waiting areas where seats are reserved just for them!

Looking forward to your little gems about Bangkok... Personally, we never look for a specific restaurant. It's often by chance, when we see mostly locals, that we find the best spots. Everything changes everywhere, and often. For example, I remember in Hua Hin, we tried to find 2 or 3 addresses from the Routard and LP guides (both very recent), but none of those restaurants still existed. One had turned into some kind of coffee tasting salon, the other into a shop.

In Bangkok, we'd love to discover more night stalls or markets where we can eat. Since we always stay near BTS Asok (Sukhumvit, soi 18), if you know any nice little places accessible by BTS, we're all ears! Last March, we went to a street market at Thong Lo station. It was 85% locals, but the dishes we ordered weren't anything special. A Thai guy we asked for advice sent us to River City! We escaped immediately by river shuttle...

I've heard that around Democracy Monument, there are street stalls in the evening and it's nice. Anyone know about that?

Anyway, Joël, see you tomorrow and thanks again for your travel journal—I'm savoring it every day!

I heard there are street stalls near Democracy Monument in the evening and that it's really nice. Does anyone know about it?

Victory Monument, a walk on elevated walkways where you can indeed see lots of stalls, huge and impressive pubs. Worth the stroll—it’s 21st-century Bangkok in all its buzz. Easy to get to, just take the skytrain station.

08/06/2013

Living up to our hopes, the sky drops its milky hue and treats us to alternating patches of blue and cloudy spells. This gave us the chance to spend several hours, mainly at Wat Phra Kaeo and then the Grand Palace.



There’s no need to wax lyrical about these places, known to almost everyone. We can just say we felt that same childlike wonder we get when discovering Disneyland for the first time—an explosion of colors and the omnipresence of all these mythical figures.



We had to be patient, strategic, and quick to get our photos without people in bright pink shorts or yellow T-shirts.



Thankfully, tourist crowds weren’t at their peak this time of year, but it was still pretty busy. We felt for those poor palace guards who have to endure endless photo sessions with tourists from all over the world. What a nightmare, though, not being allowed to photograph the Emerald Buddha or the stunning royal throne. Unless you cheat, of course...



After four solid hours exploring every nook and cranny, we realized we were completely wiped out.

We still had enough energy to pop over to Khao San for some delicious fruit shakes from our favorite vendor, and we wrapped up the afternoon at the Indian market with its tiny alleys. It was total chaos—utterly picturesque, with Hindu fashion and wonderful objects that deserve a good long look.

All of this led us to Harmonique restaurant. For our last two days, we weren’t about to tempt fate by trying anything else—we were already drooling in anticipation and stuffed ourselves as much as possible. The taxi on the way back had quite a load to carry!

Awesome, so many stalls! Thanks An5! We’ll definitely swing by there in February! The only thing that freaks me out are the "huge ads"...