Thailand Travel Journal: From Chiang Mai to Bangkok, We Didn’t Buddha Our Fun (page 6 of 11)

Hello,

Thanks for joining in, though part of what you said went a bit over my head. I couldn’t even find the "Culture for Dummies" section. Sorry to put you through (?) this spiritual journey, but just so you know, "Buddha" is in the title of the travel journal—just in case you zoomed past on your motorbike… 😉 If only to guilt-trip the poor singles heading to Pattaya’s beach resorts, you deserve this penance! Take a look at the USA travel journals, and you’ll be dizzy from thousands of photos of red rocks, trucks, and hamburgers. Or check out the Africa journals, and you’ll come back here in tears after the thirtieth lioness and the twenty-seventh giraffe! As I mentioned before, we try to show a little of what we see all the time and as much as possible of what we see less—or not at all. And just to be clear: this story shows this because that’s what we saw! Not to mention the southern Issan saying: "She who doesn’t understand humor will search for it a long time yet"… yeah, I know, it’s an easy joke, but it’s still humor. 😛

Anyway, it’s not nice to tease Obeopai. I also raised an eyebrow at the phrase "compassionate charity of liturgy." It reminds me of when I’m researching a trip, stumble on a Thai website, and translate it with Google—the result is words that all make sense individually but together form a real mess. So, Mr. Obeo, be careful with copy-paste…

For my part, at least on VF this time, I’m producing original work. The sentences, photos, and videos are all ours. With their strengths and flaws. I’m the first to want to see other travel journals, but right now, the people who could prove their skills are on strike, sick, or stuck in poste restante…

Once there, they told me the name, but I didn’t write it down—here’s the result! But you’ll notice we’re filling in the gaps little by little. You know, we’re not on some forced cultural march here. Still, our minds process all this like quirky curiosities. We didn’t spend all this time shedding our local religious quirks just to soak up those from the depths of Asia at our age. That said, like SuisseChris and you, we’re regularly amazed. And we love showing that in pictures, too.

I have nothing against hermits.

It's just that getting roasted... I mean, pretending to get roasted, is just too much for my taste. That said, this is just my opinion and it’s not worth more than that. 😉

Good night everyone

Hello,

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The VoyageForum Team

😄 😄 😄

Good evening,

The dragon itself houses a museum made up of about twenty rooms. Open from Wednesday to Sunday. We didn’t have time to see

Too bad, because the "Museum of the Dragon’s Descendants," as they call it, features a sound and light show on the history of Chinese civilization over 5,000 years. It starts with the Chinese view of the creation of the world, up to the origins of the Sino-Thai people and how they integrated into the Siamese population. The little story goes that this museum was founded by a former Thai minister of Chinese origin from Suphanburi, who left with just 15 baht in his pocket and promised to give back in kind if he succeeded. He apparently kept his word. Like the Erawan Museum in Bangkok, symbolized by a three-headed elephant, the Dragon represents the symbolic animal of China. Just my little cultural addition.

I’ll point out that there’s "Buddha" in the title of your travel journal, in case you zoomed past on your bike too quickly...😉

I wanted to wait until the end of your story to comment, but maybe you’ll take offense if you don’t get a response. Oh well. On two wheels, I never ride too fast, and I always stop at places that catch my interest. Plus, Buddha preaches tolerance for everyone’s opinions. I recognize the writing effort you put into this, but you’ll have to forgive me if I’m not as enthusiastic as your groupies or if I yawn sometimes while reading. After all, you can’t please everyone, right? I also admit I’ve rarely visited so many temples in a row during my trips. Compared to you, I’m a small player. But I regret the lack of depth and soul—and curiosity. I’m not a longtime member, but I’ve stopped counting how many times I’ve traveled to Thailand or how many travel journals I’ve read. Some have really excited me, taught me things, touched me, made me laugh, or inspired me to go. Yours seemed highly anticipated by the community, but I confess I wasn’t a regular reader, for lack of time and interest. In the same places, we probably wouldn’t see the same things.

We try to show a bit of what we see all the time and as much as possible what we see less or not at all. And careful: this story shows this because that’s what we saw! [...] I produce original work

I get that you don’t take negative comments well—I understand, it can feel like it’s polluting your work. But publishing a story means putting it out there for others, including those who don’t see the trip the same way you do. That’s the game; it’s up to you to be fair and keep your ego in check. As for those who, like me, don’t share their "vacations," it’s because they don’t need to and don’t claim to be the modern-day Stevensons, Londons, Millers, or Capas, Doisneaus, or McCurrys. Those who know me and whom I appreciate know where I am and what I see, and that’s all that matters to me. Everyone has their own universe. Proof of skill isn’t measured by the number of posts or lines on a forum—it’s in the field and the happy memories we keep.

With that, your readers are waiting for the next part of your adventures.

I won’t revisit the parts of your comments that are far from the truth—there are too many, and it’d be a waste of time.

There are those who try to build something, and those who criticize them. It’s so easy for the critics; there’s always something to find, exaggerate, or invent.

The few who dare to distort a travel journal reveal their true nature. To achieve their goals, they forget that they’re also mocking many readers who haven’t done anything wrong. Usually, bitterness and jealousy lie behind this. It’s almost proof we’re on the right path.

When this story was published, our vacation had been over for a month, and despite their efforts, the troublemakers can’t take that away from us. Every page we publish is another delight on this topic—a little dig at them. Years later, when we revisit these pages to reminisce, we automatically skip over those insignificant details. A troll here, a hater there—meh... There are plenty of good people who show us kindness.

I sincerely hope this topic is closed.

As for those who, like me, don’t share their "vacations," it’s because they don’t need to and don’t claim to be the modern-day Stevensons, Londons, Millers, or Capas, Doisneaus, or McCurrys.

I’ll take this opportunity to add a Frenchman, a true Indochina adventurer and master storyteller through his *Nuits Indochinoises*: Monsieur Jean Hougron.

And a special mention for another Jean, Monsieur Lartéguy

Hi Michel,

Thinking about it, the people who say that still came back 25 times to read or look at the story—or even both. You have to wonder why they put themselves through it if they don’t like it. I can only assume they actually enjoy it 😉 As for kitsch, I think there’s unpleasant kitsch and pleasant kitsch. I try to do my best by preselecting. In the end, given this year’s reactions, it’s even more motivation for us. Of course, we’ll keep publishing our travel journals...

Fifth day of intense heat. We took it easy and wandered around a bit in the morning.

A few kilometers to the east lies the small town of Nakhon Chaisi. Near the river, 1.5 km from the train station, a market nestles in a cluster of old houses, dating back at least 150 years. This is the Thana Old Market. You’ll find some local specialties there, like *sam-o* (a large sweet pomelo) or green papaya salad (the famous papaya that’s harvested with a pitchfork). The market is also open on weekdays. Here and there, you’ll spot some quirky details—like Japanese superheroes on a rooftop, Mao statues, or replicas of the Eiffel Tower...







Near this town is an attraction called Woodland, set up by a Thai family. It’s both a museum and a hotel. As the name suggests, the museum is entirely dedicated to wood. It showcases the craftsmanship from much of Asia. Our plan was to mix up our visits by admiring some stunning creations. We knew there’d be an entrance fee, but we were shocked when they asked for 700 baht per person.

Used to prices that sometimes feel too low, we realized this time we were being charged the equivalent of a night in a city hotel. We almost didn’t agree among ourselves, but after a quick discussion, we concluded it was too expensive for this kind of attraction. It might be debatable, but for us, it was a matter of principle. We decided not to go in.

Despite some traffic jams caused by an accident, we wanted to stop by Wat Samphran, even though its dragon keeps a close watch. We didn’t explore much since it was really a "low-energy" day. The nuns there were very kind—they even offered us coffee with good cheer.







The highlight of the day was the Sanamchan Bangkok Hospital. It’s another side of Thailand—one we’d overlooked on previous trips—that really stood out. We weren’t expecting how smoothly things would go. As soon as we stepped up to the reception desk, a woman came over to help, translating what the staff member was asking to fill out the intake form. We sat for three minutes before an employee led us upstairs. After another three-minute wait, a nurse took Joel into a small room to weigh him, check his blood pressure, ask his height, and find out what brought him in. Five minutes later, we were with the doctor. He didn’t seem alarmed and, after seeing the ointment we’d bought at the pharmacy, said it wasn’t suitable and prescribed an antihistamine plus another medication (the doctor’s accent made it hard to catch the name). And just like that—next patient! We went back downstairs, waited another three minutes, and at the last counter, Joel was asked if he was allergic to any medications. At the same time, we were given two blister packs of pills and an 890 baht bill—400 baht of that was for the tablets. The whole thing took half an hour, tops, and the service was so good we were thrilled.

Françoise was relieved—her man was saved, with no necrosis or infection, and soon it wouldn’t itch or bother him at all.

We found a great little eatery near the hotel. You can point to the meats and veggies you want, and the small dish for 40 baht is delicious. A few meters away, there’s a small square where evening stalls pop up. We easily found fried chicken thighs and wings, which we took full advantage of during this trip. Across the street, a shop makes excellent iced cappuccinos to enjoy with sweet roasted peanuts. A quiet moment watching life go by.

a charming market, without a doubt.

Like you, I wouldn’t have approved of an entrance fee like the one you were offered. Maybe it was worth the price... I doubt it (a lot, even).

Thai hospitals really do have a great reputation on this forum. Your story won’t disprove how well-deserved that reputation is.

Have a lovely evening.

Hi,

It must be worth seeing, but the little family that founded the business seems to really want to cash in. Maybe we’d be more tempted to spend the money on another kind of temptation, as you’ll see in a few days. But darn it, for once it wasn’t a temple!! I’m not in a hurry to see another hospital in a country where traveling is high-risk and where vipers have heads as big as my fist...

We returned to Ayutthaya this year, using it solely as our base camp.

We hired little Aoy again as our driver since we appreciated her skills two years ago.

The first day took us on the road from Ayutthaya to Ang Thong. It’s the kind of area most people wouldn’t think to explore, right? Our determination to uncover hidden gems sometimes leads us down side roads with little notable interest. Yet, so close to a former capital, it made sense there’d be something worth seeing.

That’s how we ended up at Wat Pa Mok, about 18 km north of Ayutthaya. This second-class royal temple houses a 22.58-meter reclining Buddha (accounting for seasonal variations?). It’s said that King Naruesan used to come here to pray before heading off to battle the Burmese.

While admiring a few statues, we noticed an elder leading dozens of schoolchildren sitting cross-legged in front of the viharn. They recited or chanted something, then everyone stood up, holding small flowers, and circled the viharn several times while singing. Some walked on tiptoes in socks with holes at the toes and heels. Inside, the reclining Buddha is regal: eyes half-closed with an expression of bliss.







We were eventually drawn to some musical commotion, usually a sign of memorable moments. Sure enough, a procession was approaching, with parents and children. How to describe it... when you’re filming, you focus on your position, framing the shot, and smiling back. Later, weeks pass, and the memory fades a bit. One day, you watch the footage to detail your travel journal and end up nearly in tears of joy. That lively music, those little princes and princesses of Siam, the way people greet strangers with such genuine smiles! This kind of emotion is personal, and it’d be pointless to try to describe or explain it. It’s no surprise that just thinking about the unforgettable moments awaiting us can give us a fever before our flight from France.

A short distance away, Wat Tha Sutthawat showcases its very aesthetic chedi.





The temple dates back to the early Ayutthaya period but is regularly renovated since it’s sponsored by Princess Sirindhorn. In 2006, a pond with a pavilion in the middle was added. Only a few dogs guard the place, and we’ll have to return tomorrow since the gates are closed.

But that’s not the only highlight. All around, majestic trees mark the edge of a small forest, and it’s a great idea to follow the path into it. You don’t have to go far to reach Ban Bang Sadet. This village along the Chao Phraya suffered a major flood in the 1970s, which prompted a visit from the king, who provided aid. Such events leave a lasting impact. To generate additional income and honor the king by creating products reflecting daily life and Thai culture, the villagers formed an association. Their creations are clay products—dancers, children playing, musicians, fruit vendors on boats, the royal barge with rowers, and farmers with buffalo-drawn carts. The shop is a burst of color, and it’s delightful to watch a villager working live. These items are inexpensive here, though they’re sold for more elsewhere in the country.

No sooner had we left the area than we found ourselves at Wat Sa Kaeo, 15 km from Ayutthaya.



Our visit wasn’t culturally focused. For decades, this temple has welcomed orphans and underprivileged children from all over the country. Visitor donations are welcome, as caring for the children costs 1 million bahts per month. Our flexible schedule allowed for spontaneity, and we arrived just before lunchtime. Dozens of children and pre-teens flooded into a dining hall the size of a football field—there must’ve been nearly 2,000 of them. We’d barely started filming when the children, lined up with stainless steel trays, sang "Happy Birthday" to the son of one of the benefactors. It was the second unforgettable "Happy Birthday" of our trip.

The kids were served rice noodles from about fifteen large plastic pots. The girls gave a small bow to the women serving them, then headed to huge pots where staff scooped meat and vegetables in sauce to complete their plates.

After our own meal, we spent a memorable—and much longer than planned—afternoon at Wat Si Roi, about 12 km northwest of Ayutthaya. The name literally means "Temple of the Four Hundred." It refers to the 400 brave soldiers who died here in 1760 resisting the Burmese army.

The temple’s main attraction is a gigantic, stunning seated Buddha in the open air, gleaming like gold in the sun.



You’ll also find statues of the famous warriors and several sacred tree trunks decorated with flower garlands.

A dozen local musicians on site then gave us a taste of their talent. Gradually, the rhythm sped up, and we experienced one of those wild moments that make a trip so special. A man played a flute producing a sound like a bagpipe. It was incredible—the music never stopped, even though the performance wasn’t easy. The moment was hypnotic. Of course, they eventually got all the *farangs* (foreigners) involved, and we had the honor of joining the orchestra for a few minutes, playing cymbals, among other things.









We were rewarded for our day’s efforts with a meal at Saithong River Restaurant, a well-known spot in Ayutthaya with a riverside terrace.

Good evening,

How to put it... when you're filming, you focus on your position, on centering the shot, and on the smile you give in return. Later, weeks go by, and what remains is a more or less vivid memory. One fine day, you watch the videos to flesh out your travel journal, and you find yourself on the verge of tears of joy. That so-catchy music, those little princes and princesses of Siam, those people who reward a stranger with such a genuine smile! That kind of emotion is personal, and it’d be pointless to try to describe or explain it. It’s no surprise that when it’s time to board the plane from France, a feverish excitement takes hold of us at the mere thought of the unforgettable moments ahead.

Between the moments we live and those we relive while watching a video, emotional moments are never in short supply... I’ve traveled to other countries in Europe and the Americas, but for me, the emotion is stronger in Thailand. Could it be the smiles and warmth of the people? Or something else?

For decades, this temple has welcomed orphans and underprivileged children from all over the country. Visitors’ donations are welcome, as caring for the children costs one million baht per month.

Do you know who else helps fund this place, aside from visitor donations?

Still so many great photos to look at! 🙂

Well, here’s a start to answering your first question.

I don’t know about others, but there are definitely half a dozen spots that totally win me over. Whenever I hit a winter blues slump, I rewatch this.

Sorry for the emotion, but I think I held it together pretty well...

https://youtu.be/Qe-7GPhH2Vs

Ban Bang Sadet: made in Thailand

https://youtu.be/dovIN2qnY3w

Wat Sa Kaeo

https://youtu.be/TEZpyIoYE8g

This one is one of my favorites.

youtu.be/ys7Rmh-YMHk

is it even?

HELLO

No, the photo in my avatar is a langur from Prachuap.

And you, is it the same?