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Wild Eastern and Western Cape, 3 Weeks in South Africa, September 2017 (page 6 of 8)

Discussion started by Michel85200 on 2017-09-28

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Wild Eastern and Western Cape, 3 weeks in South Africa, September 2017

Michel85200 · 2017-10-30 · Message 101 of 156

On arrival, the sun greets us and Undermilkwood is untouched.

First, you have to cross the mountain range



Follow the coast with Wilderness beach



Home sweet home under the sun





Rest... Tomorrow?


Wild Eastern and Western Cape, 3 weeks in South Africa, September 2017

Michel85200 · 2017-10-30 · Message 102 of 156

I could’ve done a recap of Die Hel.

The road is: stunning but stressful, so you should tackle it knowing how long and challenging it is...depending on the weather, possible traffic, and with a suitable vehicle...and know how to change a tire if needed.

I recommend it!

The valley:

Bring your own food and drinks! Keep in mind it’s a bit rustic but decent. You’re in a "world of its own." Activities include...relaxing and hiking in nature, mountain biking...you can also fish in season.

I loved it. For the history and the stories. The road.

PS: You can camp, and it seems nice. Remote but nice.

Wild Eastern and Western Cape, 3 weeks in South Africa, September 2017

Michel85200 · 2017-10-31 · Message 103 of 156

Whales in sight!

The weather is really uncertain today, the boat is small, and leaving Knysna Lagoon is always a bit challenging.

Here, it's calm, but at the Heads... wow, it's rough!



No wonder this entrance was considered the most dangerous by the British Navy. There’s even a dive site here on a shipwreck.

We’re worried we’ll come back empty-handed, but...

They’ll be at the meet-up, right there and very much present.






Wild Eastern and Western Cape, 3 weeks in South Africa, September 2017

Michel85200 · 2017-11-01 · Message 104 of 156

Prince Alfred Pass

Between Knysna and Uniondale.

We start by leaving Knysna via the townships, which aren’t great, especially in the rain.



To cross the forest. Lots of spots for walks, mountain biking, picnic sites... But it’s raining!





It’s raining and the cloud ceiling is low.

Being adventurers like we are, we didn’t hesitate to head to The Point Of View...





Only to find that... well, with the clouds... we couldn’t see a thing.



That said,

I’ll go ahead and say that because of its length, the variety of landscapes, and the fairly easy track, the Prince Alfred Pass is more interesting and more beautiful than the Swartberg!

Wild Eastern and Western Cape, 3 weeks in South Africa, September 2017

Michel85200 · 2017-11-01 · Message 105 of 156

The pass, the sequel

We’re now in the forest-farm area where wildfires are the big obsession—constant calls for vigilance, monitoring, and that massive "siren."








Wild Eastern and Western Cape, 3 weeks in South Africa, September 2017

Michel85200 · 2017-11-01 · Message 106 of 156

Back in the early 2000s, during our first trips, you’d genuinely and systematically find a Black neighborhood and a white neighborhood everywhere. The Black neighborhood was extremely deprived—a township, poor, with one water point for x number of houses, often no electricity, no public lighting, let alone sewers or anything else. The "houses" were makeshift, cobbled together—having walls seemed like a luxury.

The in-flight ad on SAA (South African Airways) touted "progress" as a "house" made of bricks, with one window, one door, one room... a tin roof. No mention of running water, heating, or toilets...

Something like this but smaller:



So, townships back then were similar to today’s shacks (shacks are the slums within townships).



The first mission at the time was water, electricity, and public lighting... so we started seeing poles! Yep, electric poles and streetlights!





Second step... either new housing was built—like "subdivisions," starting from scratch in a way.







Or the old areas were upgraded.



With the next goal... toilets. Outside at first.



Now, the goal is indoor toilets... we’re not there yet. (On the theme of "having toilets in the house is fancy—it really makes you somebody!")

Little by little, you see much "fancier" neighborhoods popping up... with real houses, even stylish touches like columns.



It’s often in rural areas where things lag the most.







What gives me hope is that in just fifteen years, we’ve seen firsthand how things have improved... There’s still work to do, but...

Wild Eastern and Western Cape, 3 weeks in South Africa, September 2017

Muriel18 · 2017-11-01 · Message 107 of 156

Being adventurers like us, we didn’t hesitate to head to The Point Of View...

I did the same thing in Costa Rica at Poas Volcano... with identical results! 😏 Muriel

Wild Eastern and Western Cape, 3 weeks in South Africa, September 2017

Michel85200 · 2017-11-02 · Message 108 of 156

This pass is varied, pleasant, beautiful...

I know the weather’s not great, but I suspect this pass—which owes me a rematch—is absolutely stunning.

We finish in Uniondale and we’ve definitely earned lunch!


















Wild Eastern and Western Cape, 3 weeks in South Africa, September 2017

Michel85200 · 2017-11-09 · Message 109 of 156

Willowmore:

So after Uniondale comes Willowmore.



What do we do in Willowmore?



A tiny, very quiet town.



And our guest house...



During our last kilometers through the pass and on the road... mountain bikes... mountain bikes... cars with mountain bikes... loads of mountain bikes.

Actually, this weekend is a big Uniondale/Knysna mountain bike race weekend...

That explains their presence and the difficulty we had finding accommodation for tonight.

Willowmore, the founding of this town... mid-18th century (you’ll understand later why I’m lingering on this...) A tiny, quiet town where everyone says hello as they pass by... Black, White, Tourists, Locals...

The vibe is pretty chill.

A group of women, like a local Kiwanis club, sipping white wine in a "tea room"... And ladies, it’s only 4 PM! A "tea room" where you shouldn’t bring young kids... the decor is downright creepy... "Sophie’s Choice"... just the name...

Moms are shuttling their kids home from school... Lots of Hilux-style 4x4s with canopies... a bit like ours... Oh, here’s one... White woman driver... no one in the front with her... no one in the back seats of this Hilux... The little Black boy... He’s in the canopy... in the canopy? Yep... Would you have this idea? Transporting a kid under 10 in the canopy of your 4x4? When all the other seats are empty? Huh? No harm done... the canopy window is cracked open... so he can get some air... (I think you caught the sarcastic humor there)

It’s a bit like often... In the open bakkie, exposed to the wind, 3 or 4 workers freezing their butts off while there’s room in the cab... Some things still haven’t quite become the norm... Too bad.

Anyway... The guest house isn’t bad... but it’s sorely lacking a critical eye and/or a bit of investment... In the bathroom... the frosted glass hasn’t seen a sponge in ages... so mold has moved in. Only one side of the bathroom door is painted... the rug in the room dates back to before the Great Trek, dirt included... Nicely rolled up (I didn’t want to walk on an antique), it’ll serve as a "doorstop" to block the huge gap where a horde of "critters" could get in.

The meal will be pretty excellent, as was the very friendly welcome from the two young women running the place.

Oh, right... They claim the Baviaanskloof passes are worse than Die Hel’s... gulp? Really? Gulp! !

Wild Eastern and Western Cape, 3 weeks in South Africa, September 2017

Michel85200 · 2017-11-11 · Message 110 of 156

Baviaanskoof:

A little map



We’re going from Willowmore to Patensie, so from west to east along the valley (the Baviaans one, crossing the other river, the Kouga). The reserve is in orange—it was created in the early 2000s. The uncolored part is still private. Our base for a few nights is at the entrance of the "reserve" section, crossed by the "road." It *is* a road... It’s on the maps, has its own number... We’ll see its condition later.

Shall we go?














Wild Eastern and Western Cape, 3 weeks in South Africa, September 2017

Michel85200 · 2017-11-11 · Message 111 of 156

The first part of the route isn’t too challenging. You go up a bit, then back down... But after rain, it can be a completely different story because at the bottom of every valley, you keep crossing fords... dry for us, but potentially flooded!









A quick stop at Vero's "restaurant"... which is a restaurant in name only—the selection is super limited.



And another tortoise—one more!














Wild Eastern and Western Cape, 3 weeks in South Africa, September 2017

Michel85200 · 2017-11-12 · Message 112 of 156

So here we are, settled in for 3 nights at our base.

A farm bought in the 2000s (sheep for the main production)



where the new owners (not farmers by any stretch) had stone cottages built at the top of a hill.



Isolation and a guaranteed viewpoint, with baboons as our main company,



especially since we’re the only guests.



Though getting to the top is another story...






Wild Eastern and Western Cape, 3 weeks in South Africa, September 2017

Michel85200 · 2017-11-12 · Message 113 of 156

Any photos?










Wild Eastern and Western Cape, 3 weeks in South Africa, September 2017

Michel85200 · 2017-11-17 · Message 114 of 156

It's mid-November and...

It's snowing in Karoo National Park and Beaufort West!

https://www.iol.co.za/news/south-africa/western-cape/gallery-snow-in-beaufort-west-1341946

My rhinos and lions in the snow ?????

Wild Eastern and Western Cape, 3 weeks in South Africa, September 2017

Michel85200 · 2017-11-18 · Message 115 of 156

Baviaanskloof does have a nature reserve section. For now, we're in the private part.

In this private section, several farms share the territory.





A very dry valley, at first glance, but one that still holds great wealth... springs.

Water... Springs (7) managed collectively according to rules dating back to the early colonization of this valley. So many days for each. That’s for the surface water that emerges at the figtree forest.



The other is pumped.



To adjust the flow... a piece of wood in the collection box (padlocked).



Any issues with this distribution? No! "Everything’s been written in black and white for ages."

Wild Eastern and Western Cape, 3 weeks in South Africa, September 2017

Michel85200 · 2017-11-18 · Message 116 of 156

The best-maintained police station in SA!



And the big winner is the Baviaanskloof police station!



It’s already so remote out here.



The valley’s population... well, there aren’t many people... everyone knows everyone... and crime is practically non-existent...

"The police have so little to do... that maintaining their station keeps them busy!"

Fun fact: Here, people speak Afrikaans or English. The authorities sent Xhosa-speaking police officers... which makes sense since we’re administratively in the Xhosa country, the Eastern Cape... Except that no one here speaks Xhosa... Things had to be adjusted pretty quickly.

Besides, this region (if I got it right) was only attached to the Eastern Cape after 1994... before that, it was part of the Western Cape. A source of problems and neglect, according to locals... especially when it comes to maintaining the pass... see the next episodes!

Wild Eastern and Western Cape, 3 weeks in South Africa, September 2017

Michel85200 · 2017-11-19 · Message 117 of 156

So, who’s up for hearing all this?

Well, this is Peter.

A solid Afrikaner pushing forty.

Around these parts, everyone’s got lives that aren’t exactly "linear."

He comes from the Kalahari, where his parents were farmers. He’s traveled quite a bit in the US and France.

His plan—besides breaking out of the isolation he’s stuck in, still single—is to have his own farm. But for that, he needs cash, and he doesn’t have enough... So he ended up here about ten years ago. Tasked with running the farm, raising sheep... and managing the lodge—meaning the campsite, self-catering, and the "luxury" side—while also playing butler and guide... A bit too much work, a bit too underpaid, and a bit too squeezed out of vacations he never gets to take. On top of that, he’s passionate about... distillation! He distills just about everything, including his own whisky! (And apparently, he’s far from just a home consumer!) So he tells stories... Those who’ve followed the old travel journals know that when you’ve got a guide like this, you don’t let go... He talks about floods with cars trapped in fords or swept away by the current. Tourists who head to Beaufort West and take a straight line through Baviaans... only to end up stranded, exhausted, hungry, lost after dark, desperately searching for shelter and a meal! He recounts the old trail of the first settlers, the original Baviaans route when the path was still maintained. His favorite fishing spots. In short, he shares a side of South Africa that’s way more real than tourist brochures. Exactly what we needed.

By the way... The valley was colonized in... in... 1725! Doesn’t that make you do a double-take? 1725? Well, what’s the big deal? Uniondale and Willowmore are more like 1850/1860... Grahamstown is 1805/1815!

So the first Afrikaner settlers arrived here over a century earlier! Even better, they didn’t come from the west but from the east.

Following the coast, unable to find a way through the Tsitsikamma forest, they continued toward PE and arrived from that side. And they never found the way out to the west!

The new Trekkers, coming from the west—those who founded Uniondale and Willowmore—were pretty surprised to find people had beaten them to it!

Five original families... The Ferreiras... of Portuguese origin, which explains the huge number of Ferreiras in the area. The Smitts from Holland, and the De Prezes... the Dutch version of the French Després and others...

Wild Eastern and Western Cape, 3 weeks in South Africa, September 2017

Michel85200 · 2017-11-26 · Message 118 of 156

And now, a walk with Kiwit.

Kiwit was born here and lives here, in the next village over. He only speaks Afrikaans and English. He wants to learn Xhosa... another peculiarity of this area... see the Xhosa police officers no one could communicate with.

A walk at the bottom of the valley.





We’ll see... the tree where the leopard sharpens its claws...

Leopard tracks



Otter droppings

And an eagle!



We’ll do a bit of geology (don’t worry, I won’t make you do any)




Wild Eastern and Western Cape, 3 weeks in South Africa, September 2017

Michel85200 · 2017-11-26 · Message 119 of 156

The lodge was created by a wealthy South African couple from CT.

In the 2000s, they bought the farm...without really knowing what being a farmer entails...

It’s Peter who’s been repairing the damage and getting the operation back on track for the past ten years...on top of his role as lodge manager...

Today, a couple is taking over the lodge’s management. Another non-linear life story. He’s of Scottish origin, and she’s a pure Afrikaans. Since we’re the only guests...and interaction is kind of our thing...we chat.

We talk about them...how for several years they managed a hotel on the edge of Addo...owned by French people who weren’t exactly gifted in hospitality. Life isn’t that easy...They also have a dream—having their own place...but for that, you need money. South Africa isn’t a land where all whites are rich and exploitative and all Blacks are poor and exploited. The situation is far more complex. Many white South Africans work hard just to make ends meet. There are plenty of Black people who are much wealthier. Even if it’s true that in this valley, too, the Black population is mostly poor, even very poor. That’s actually why I wanted to see where the guest house employees lived. Peter and the manager couple share a small, not-so-luxurious house.



The managers’ place is much nicer and well-furnished.



The Black employees (those working on the farm, handymen, etc.)...We won’t say it’s luxury. But it’s already much better than the other houses. Let’s just say we’ve seen far worse.


Wild Eastern and Western Cape, 3 weeks in South Africa, September 2017

Michel85200 · 2017-11-26 · Message 120 of 156

Okay, that's not all... but tomorrow we're tackling the Baviaanskloof Pass with Peter... which will give me a taste of what's in store when I'm behind the wheel alone...

Hopopop... What's going on here?

A monument commemorating the deaths of several people swept away by floodwaters during a flash flood...



And the water level? Well, up to the red strip! A good 3 meters!



We're at the bottom of the valley, which is dry, and the water rose by 3 meters? Yep, that's right.

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