in Entre deux voyages โบ Carnets de voyage
A Magnificent Loop in the Southern Rainbow Nation (page 6 of 14)
Discussion started by Rouquine38 on 2019-01-23
270 replies
This thread has been translated into English.
A magnificent loop in the south of the Rainbow Nation
Rjulie95 · 2019-02-05 · Message 101 of 271
So your husband didn’t end up doing the great white shark dive after all?
A magnificent loop in the south of the Rainbow Nation
Marati · 2019-02-05 · Message 102 of 271
You didn’t have much luck on that "coastal" day, with the wind and the clouds. ๐
But the Marula Lodge looks amazing ๐, especially that garden that has a "mini-Kirstenbosch" vibe with the mountain in the background.
Thanks for the nod to the Vagabond, and the bobotie you got to enjoy on the terrace! ๐ !
A magnificent loop in the south of the Rainbow Nation
Michel85200 · 2019-02-05 · Message 103 of 271
Mountain zebras in this case, Mountain Zebra.
A magnificent loop in the south of the Rainbow Nation
Marati · 2019-02-05 · Message 104 of 271
And about the two photos just below, do you lean towards blesbok or bontebok?
Thanks! ๐
A magnificent loop in the south of the Rainbow Nation
Rouquine38 · 2019-02-05 · Message 105 of 271
So your husband didn’t do the great white immersion after all?
Nah! He chickened out—said he was scared of getting cold .
A magnificent loop in the south of the Rainbow Nation
Rouquine38 · 2019-02-05 · Message 106 of 271
Zรจbres des montagnes in this case, Mountain Zebra.
Yeah, I definitely remembered your lesson about the different zebra species in one of your recent travel journals ๐.
I even showed off by explaining it to my husband ๐.
A magnificent loop in the south of the Rainbow Nation
Rouquine38 · 2019-02-05 · Message 107 of 271
On the other hand, Marula Lodge looks amazing ๐, especially that garden which has a "mini-Kirstenbosch" vibe with the mountain in the background.
Oops! The photo of the gorgeous building isn’t Marula Lodge—it’s one of the lovely houses on Swellendam’s main avenue ๐. But the garden, yes, really beautiful ๐.
Thanks for the nod to Vagabond, with the bobotie you got to enjoy on the terrace ๐ !
So good, that bobotie—I even impress my friends when I make them try it ๐
A magnificent loop in the south of the Rainbow Nation
Montagnard74 · 2019-02-05 · Message 108 of 271
Well, no penguins at Boulders, no whales in Hermanus, and the sharks—it’s too cold... 😞
But on the bright side, we’ve got the addresses of all the great restaurants with plates to prove it!
Is this a travel journal or a food blog? 😉😂
A magnificent loop in the south of the Rainbow Nation
Rouquine38 · 2019-02-05 · Message 109 of 271
Okay, no penguins at Boulders, no whales in Hermanus, and the sharks are too cold for a swim....๐
But we’ve got the addresses of all the great restaurants with plates to prove it!!
Is this a travel journal or a food blog? ๐๐
Both, captain ๐.
Since we can’t drown our disappointment in a drink (we don’t drink), we settle for a good meal instead ๐.
Part of the journey is tasting the local specialties and bringing some great recipes back home ๐.
A magnificent loop in the south of the Rainbow Nation
Montagnard74 · 2019-02-05 · Message 110 of 271
Too bad, I remember some great bottles enjoyed during my stay...
Of course, the culinary aspect is a significant part of any trip ("you are what you eat..."), and South Africa also has a lot to offer in that regard...
As for extending the happiness once home, it won’t be the spice rack overflowing from my trip to India that’ll spoil it for you!!
A magnificent loop in the south of the Rainbow Nation
Rouquine38 · 2019-02-06 · Message 111 of 271
Friday, December 28: Swellendam - Knysna
Today, after a good breakfast, we head towards the Garden Route starting from Mossel Bay. We leave the lodge at 8:35 AM.
But before reaching Mossel Bay, we cover 170 km pretty quickly since we don’t make any special stops.
We pass through more farming and livestock areas again—the road is quite monotonous, and there’s a lot of traffic.


We arrive in Mossel Bay at 11 AM and head up to the lighthouse to stretch our legs. The view is really nice, and the hotel even has a natural pool where you can easily swallow a mouthful of water ๐คช.




Look, Bruno! We saw animals in the parking lots in South Africa! ๐

Mossel Bay is a seaside resort that’s not very pretty ๐.


Next, we take the Garden Route, and our first stop is Wilderness National Park. The 60 km drive goes by quickly.
However, the park entrance isn’t well signposted—we had a bit of trouble finding it.
You need to exit at Dumbleton Crescent and continue down the road to get there.


We don’t try canoeing—it’s too tough for us (not crazy, huh, Guillaume ๐). We also don’t go all the way to the waterfall, but we take a walk along the riverbanks. We could’ve gone for a quick dip ๐.


We’re tempted to drive the 40 km to Sedgefield by following the road inside the park along the different bodies of water. But that would take at least 2 hours, so we decide to prioritize Knysna since the weather is so nice today.
It takes a little over half an hour to get there. The landscapes we pass through are pretty, with forests and lakes on one side and the ocean on the other.



A magnificent loop in the south of the Rainbow Nation
Rouquine38 · 2019-02-06 · Message 112 of 271
It's just past 2:30 PM when we arrive in Knysna. Apparently, for soccer fans, this town isn’t unfamiliar—it seems the French team made quite an impression here! ๐ฎ ๐คช

We head straight to drop off our bags at Lavender Hill Guest House before exploring the area.
The room is very spacious, but the facilities are a bit outdated—this will be the least impressive lodge of our trip.


I’m a little disappointed because the lagoon is almost dry, but I should’ve expected that since it’s summer ๐คช. It’s still pretty, though I was hoping for a beautiful expanse of blue water ๐ฎ.


We make our first stop at Leisure Island, pausing for a moment at Bollard Beach. The water is low, a few people are strolling around, but no one dares to swim.


Next, we climb to the highest point of The Heads—two cliffs facing each other that open the lagoon to the Indian Ocean.




It’s 5:30 PM, and we’re on the docks, hoping to go on a cruise, but there’s no space left for tonight—we should’ve booked ahead ๐.


Oh well, we’ll just have dinner with some seafood and a delicious malva pudding instead! ๐


Before heading back, we enjoy the sunset over the lagoon.


The rest here
A magnificent loop in the south of the Rainbow Nation
Marati · 2019-02-06 · Message 113 of 271
Our first stop is Wilddness NP—the road is very quick for the 60 km. However, the park entrance isn’t marked, and we had a bit of trouble finding it.
Oh, you too? ๐ If you’re not looking for it, you can easily miss it... ๐คช
We didn’t try canoeing—too tough for us (not crazy, eh Guillaume ๐). We also didn’t go all the way to the waterfall but strolled along the riverbanks instead.
Too bad ๐! I was already grinning, remembering our own struggle with those canoes, the wind making them wobble, and the camera nearly taking a dive at any moment!!
A Magnificent Loop in the Southern Rainbow Nation
Max68 · 2019-02-06 · Message 114 of 271
Hello Isabelle, ๐
Finally caught up on the delay—what a wonderful gastronomic trip ๐!
At first, I thought you were in San Francisco and along the California coast, but when I saw the photos of the plates, I realized that couldn’t be right ๐.
I had a great time with a well-balanced post (not too long, not too short), friendly contributors, and beautiful photos... everything was perfect. Can’t wait for the next part!
Thanks ๐
JF
A magnificent loop in the south of the Rainbow Nation
Rouquine38 · 2019-02-06 · Message 115 of 271
Hi Jean Franรงois,
Welcome to this travel journal, even if it's a bit late ๐. It's great to follow the adventures of a young couple in their fifties exploring southern Africa ๐.
And thanks for your kind comments .
A magnificent loop in the south of the Rainbow Nation
Montagnard74 · 2019-02-06 · Message 116 of 271
Hey! Check it out Bruno, we saw animals in the parking lots in South Africa! ๐

All I see is a feeble attempt at numbers and letters that don’t even form a proper word...
But I admit the license plates are pretty—we should be able to customize ours too...
On the other hand, that "pool" is insane!! Almost dangerous with the waves, right?
A magnificent loop in the south of the Rainbow Nation
Rjulie95 · 2019-02-06 · Message 117 of 271
We then climb to the highest point of The Head, two facing cliffs that open the lagoon to the Indian Ocean.
Michel, our friends got it wrong—they climbed The Head instead of Lion’s Head. Seriously, you guys are way off! ๐
A Magnificent Loop in the South of the Rainbow Nation
Rouquine38 · 2019-02-06 · Message 118 of 271
But the "pool"—it’s insane! Almost dangerous with the backwash, right?
Yeah, at first we thought it was a nice little pool, but when a big wave flooded everything, I’m glad I wasn’t in there—tons of rocks all around ๐ ๐ดโโ ๏ธ.
A magnificent loop in the south of the Rainbow Nation
Rouquine38 · 2019-02-06 · Message 119 of 271
We then climb to the highest point of The Head, two facing cliffs that open the lagoon to the Indian Ocean.
Michel, our friends got it wrong—they climbed The Head instead of Lion’s Head. Seriously, you guys messed up ๐
Please, don’t rub it in ๐. Michel forgot ๐.
A magnificent loop in the south of the Rainbow Nation
Rouquine38 · 2019-02-07 · Message 120 of 271
Saturday, December 29: Knysna - Addo
We continue along the Garden Route to reach Addo Park. Over 300 km to go with a few stops planned along the way.
Oh, hitchhiking is prohibited! Only on certain dangerous sections, though, because otherwise there are quite a few hitchhikers along the roads. What’s surprising is that they hold out a bill instead of their thumb—it’s true that might encourage people to stop! ๐

We take the R102 to the village of Nature’s Valley, located 60 km away. The place is really peaceful, with a beautiful beach between the lagoon and the ocean.




A little further on, you can get a stunning view of Nature’s Valley.

According to the PF guide, you shouldn’t take the N2 but continue on the R102 to see the suspension bridge spanning the Bloukrans. The road is narrow in places with rockfalls on the sides. Strange for a scenic route! !๐ฎ ๐คช


When we arrive in Coldstream without having seen the bridge, we cross through the forest via a dirt road and end up on the N2.

A few kilometers later, we reach the site where the bungee jump starts.
This is the largest bridge in Africa, built in the early 1980s—it’s pretty impressive.

Those who jump off it are really brave ๐.


We skip Tsitsikamma Park since it’s almost noon when we hit the road again.
We head straight to Addo NP because the elephants are waiting for us. We still have a little over 200 km to cover, and if we’ve come this far, it’s for this park.
30 km before reaching the village of Addo, we turn onto a gravel road.


It’s past 2:30 PM when we arrive at the park, so we go straight to pick up the keys to our chalet. The chalets are a bit away from the camp center and are very well equipped with a kitchen and a nice terrace ๐.



When we booked 10 months earlier, we couldn’t get two nights in the same place because there was no availability left ๐.