Converting a heavy-duty bus/coach/truck into a motorhome (page 69 of 161)

Yeah Christian, I know—I’ve already read this forum about Gasperini, but if you look at the early posts, some people recommend it. So which opinion should I go with? That’s why I’m posting here today. I’d love to hear other opinions, especially Patrick’s if he knows the system... Thanks anyway!

YES for the limited WEIGHT, but they SHOULD add a sign below saying "RESIDENTS EXEMPT" because if there’s no current weight limit, imposing one is just for "comfort" and they can’t legally restrict a resident from accessing their property. ESPECIALLY if it’s voted in a municipal council to "annoy" one specific resident—it could lead to an administrative court case with compensation and a reprimand. 🏴‍☠️

(AMAsxmx could just say it’ll be his future work tool: a converted bus for his prospecting tours to launch a new job-creating business 😏 or that he’s opening a luxury campervan company in the area based on Coaches 😏 and that he’s building the first prototype 😇.)

Seriously though, diplomacy is key—conflict with a municipality isn’t something to wish for, and even for a pro at legal texts and relationships, it’s draining. 🤪

Anyway, it’s always the same story: they hassle AMAsxmx because he has a bus that looks intimidating and like a large-scale DIY project, whereas if he’d parked a coach in the same external condition as PATRICK26’s, the municipality would be bending over backwards. It’s all about appearances. What AMAsxmx might be missing is a Merc parked in front of the house next to the bus (a Merc, mind you—not a black BMW, that looks sketchy) 😏 or better yet, a Vel Satis—that looks classy. 😎

😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎 I’d noticed before that corrosion treated with Rustol and not exposed to the elements, especially UV, stays protected for a long time. Personally, I treated the early signs of corrosion with Rustol and left it at that. To do a proper job, I should’ve painted over it afterward. I didn’t, so we’ll see how it goes. It seems to me we should take as much care repainting the inside as the outside. When winter hits and it’s 20°C inside the motorhome while it’s -10°C or -15°C outside, you can’t stop some vapor from condensing on the metal. You can’t make insulation 100% airtight.__ You’re worried your metal heats up in the sun. I’m just sharing what I’ve observed. My Master (I don’t have a coach yet) was white, and I repainted it white. With a white paint that doesn’t heat up in the sun—which isn’t the case for all white paints. (I chose Hamerite gloss white, a paint for fences and rusted iron. I don’t recommend it because you need to be a skilled painter to apply it with a spray gun, and it’s not very durable—though you *can* apply it directly to rust without primer, or so they say. It sticks better on dry Rustol.) Here’s what I did: I parked my vehicle parallel to another van, so they were both hit by the sun the same way. Air temperature was 22°C. When I touched my van, the metal felt “cold”—basically the same temperature as the air. But the other van, also white and newer with a clean paint job, had metal that was warmer than my skin. At 35°C, my metal heated up a bit, while the other van’s was *really* hot.__

If you plan to live in your bus, what will you need more: 24 or 230 volts? Personally, I’m asking myself these questions since I want to live in my converted van. A generator is essential for backup (you can find affordable, quiet ones), and you need to minimize electricity use (LED lights). Solar panels are a must because they’re silent—why not a wind turbine too (650 €)? Hope this helps.😉 Good luck, Roulmamaison😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎

Haaaa thanks everyone for these solidarity posts and tips.😉

Well, for now I’m in observation mode, waiting to see what happens from the top of my corridor …🏴‍☠️ Your posts confirm what I thought—apparently, the officials can’t do anything since the coach is inside the fence, and according to my sources, they’re counting on the owner to take care of it.😮 Before that, they’re asking some cops who’ll pass the questions to my wife when she picks up the kids from school… then my wife asks me at lunchtime when we’re at the table. Hahahahaha😏😏😏😏 But why this bus? It works, the engine runs—are you gonna sell it after?… etc. And first of all, it’s not a bus, it’s a coach. Since my girlfriend knows the difference, she feels all proud hihihi…😛

Then there are other cops who come by, encourage me, and even whisper in my ear what’s being said…😉 (36 years in the village, after all). My coach isn’t pretty right now, but it’s nothing compared to the pine grove they’re about to bulldoze 😕🙁—just 10 meters from my place—to build a retirement home. Soon, pine grove… uh… construction site off-limits to the public. So if it’s the walker who’s bothered by the sight of my coach, if they pass by when the bulldozers are there, they’ll slit their wrists…🏴‍☠️ Plus, by the time they finish, my coach will already be in storage. @+ I’ll keep you posted—we’re gonna have a good laugh😏😄😏😄🤪😄😏😉🙂

Nahotchan: Of course, come by whenever you want—I’ll be here tomorrow.

Politicians are great at talking and intimidating! I know this firsthand—I work with them. They think they have all the power just because they're elected officials. As soon as a decision needs to be made, the legal side (which they often don’t understand at all) comes up. So they stop right there. Go for it, man—charge ahead and drive them crazy. We’re with you all the way.

Hi, I work for a coach company, and we're selling 4 Renault S 53 RX and 2 FR1 models. Here's the sales ad—all offers are welcome! Best regards

Click on the ad link: http://cgi.ebay.fr/renault-s-53-autocars-CAMPING-CAR-POSSIBLE_W0QQitemZ290050402584QQihZ019QQcategoryZ9883QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Thanks for your comments about the paint—it’s true I didn’t think that white paint specifically for metalwork (my brother’s in the trade, he’ll guide me on the paint) could help avoid heating up the bus’s metal sheeting too much... though I’m still hoping the temperatures won’t climb too high, since we’re planning to travel to far-off lands with much hotter climates.

Regarding electricity, we’ve calculated our needs (they’re significant), and we were thinking of using 220V, but with a converter we can have both voltages, so I’m not sure where you’re going with that (but I’m no electricity expert). Anyway, I’m still wondering about the GASPERINI system. As for wind turbines, we’ve talked about them a lot with people who advise against the system for various reasons—it’s not easy to position on a bus, and it lacks power... Do you know anyone who uses this system on a truck or camper van?? Of course, we already have a 3kW generator, and it’s definitely going to be useful for the bus...

Oh, and I’ve been looking at ads on eBay... They seem too good to be true, don’t they? When you think some sellers are asking twice the price for the same model with double the mileage!!! Where’s the catch??? Still, these buses look pretty good and well laid out (I’m talking about the rear door that leaves space for a bedroom at the back)... It almost makes me regret my choice...

Anyway, I’m still waiting for opinions on the GASPERINI!

Hey molosse, Just chipping in on the Gasperini topic. I was at Confort Expo in Bordeaux this weekend scouting for a camper van. I got to chat with a rep from Narbonne Accessoire who honestly recommended this way to generate electricity. It’s a bit pricey upfront—at least 2390 € without installation—but the best deal is to order it during a fair. This weekend, they had a promo for 1890 € (pretty interesting, right?). He assured me this device was exactly what I was looking for since I plan to live in it year-round. You can get up to 600W per day, which is more than enough. Every 100 hours, you add a liter of oil. Plus, it’s super quiet—he even turned it on right in front of me. There’s an on/off switch inside the unit. He also showed me two outlets on the device, which, from what he explained, were connected to clean and gray water, which is great for winter. On the other hand, he advised against wind turbines (didn’t quite catch why). Hope this helps! 😉 max24😎

About the Gasperini!

Several issues:

What voltage did you choose for your living area? If, like most of us, you decided to connect two 12V batteries to charge them in 24V from your alternator while driving, you can forget about the Gasperini, which—according to the catalogs I’ve seen—only comes in 12V.

If your batteries total more than 250Ah, the charging current will be too low (a charging current should be at least 8/100 of the battery’s amp-hour rating).

If you’re traveling abroad, you’ll need to change your gas bottles often, and the connectors aren’t compatible from one country to another.

Last point: it’s almost as noisy as a moderately insulated generator.

Since you already have a generator, why not install a combined charger/inverter that will only run occasionally? Paired with two 12V, 230Ah batteries, you’ll have an amazing setup!

For info on the charger/inverter: http://motorhome.blogs-de-voyage.fr/electricite/

PATRICK26

.....plus it’s particularly quiet. He had it running right in front of me.....

I think the seller at Narbonne Accessoires only ran it for you at minimum speed, not at full load. In fact, the Gasperini specs show a noise level of 57 decibels at 7 meters. http://perso.orange.fr/...%20Gasperini_jpg.jpg Full docs: http://perso.orange.fr/...i/indexgasperini.htm

For comparison, a gas-powered generator like the Honda EU 20i delivers 2 kW at 220 volts, or 8 amps at 12 volts, with a noise level of 53 dB at low power and 59 dB at full throttle—also measured at 7 meters. I own one, and I can tell you it’s super quiet at idle, but at full power, it’s a different story. It sounds like a noisy classroom (standards say 55–75 dB for classrooms), but it’s still way quieter than the 120 decibels of a jackhammer. 🏴‍☠️ 😏 More on noise levels: http://www.environnement.gouv.fr/...it-chiffres-cles.pdf

We hesitated too long about getting the Victron charger/converter combo, but the prices are outrageous, so I grabbed a cheap converter and a charger at almost cost price. To my surprise, lots of people found the project interesting, and when I explained why I was buying it, the guy gave me a 20% discount—so 15 € off the cost price, hehe, plus VAT, unfortunately.

For my batteries, I got lucky again—I came across a really accommodating guy who takes cash and gave me the batteries at half price, no VAT either😛 (just imagine the savings). Varta 230AH semi-stationary batteries—check the price and picture my smile.😏 Anyway, so far, so good—I’m pretty lucky.

😉Hi Patrick,

I found a site that talks about reclassifying buses as heavy goods vehicles. One of the most frequently asked questions is: What are the steps to follow to reclassify a passenger bus into a privately converted camper?

ANSWER: No steps are required if the reclassified vehicle is never intended for passenger transport again. It will then be considered a heavy goods vehicle, and there will be no possibility of reverting it to passenger transport. Otherwise, it’s essential to keep 9 seats. http://clients.w3line.fr/electron/faq/public/index.cfm?lang=fr&refsociete=iseobus&affiche=QR

But you told us you need the TCP to take it to the DRIRE since it still has the old registration certificate.

See you,

The next chapter of the blue bus adventures is up on the blog!

The window glazing!

The delay is hard to catch up on (and yes, it still isn’t raining in Valence, so we tinker, we tinker, and we don’t post on the blog!)

Next post: opening up the back.

After that: the bodywork, the paint, the insulation, the partitions, the water system, the electrics (damn, why did I start a blog, me!)

And then there was famillede8’s move (that kept us busy with Sjunior and coquinou31), getting their bus back to them (what a beast!), you know, plenty of reasons and excuses for falling behind! (soon, it’ll be snow, you’ll see!)

To check out the blog, the address is in the signature—just click!

And don’t forget to sign up for the newsletter, so you’re notified right away whenever there’s something new! The best!

PATRICK26

Hey mrkonn,

You found this info on the iseo website, right?

Their answer is ambiguous and doesn’t really address the question if you look closely!

In their response, they mention a "reclassified" vehicle. That means it’s already been through the inspection!

What they’re saying is: if it’s fewer than 9 seats, it’s a heavy goods vehicle; if it’s more, it’s a bus!

But we already knew that!

For the inspection, when you book your appointment, just ask them!

Or simpler: check the registration certificate of the vehicle you’re driving. If it says TCP, you’ll need a bus license!

And until proven otherwise, for the trip to the inspection center, your bus will have a registration certificate with the TCP mention!

PATRICK26

hey patrick26 I don’t agree with you when you say: check the vehicle’s registration certificate. If it says TCP, you need a bus license! and until proven otherwise, for the trip to the mining authority office, your bus will still have a registration certificate with the TCP mention!

I asked the mining engineer: he told me: as soon as we receive the downgrade request with the manufacturer’s authorization, you’ll get a certificate from our department that cancels and replaces the registration certificate, and you can drive with a car license for Alès or for the technical inspection, at Veritas inspection and at the DIRECCTE. He specified that it must be insured 😉 see ya

Well, if that's the case, it'll simplify things!

But this is the first time I've heard that the summons allows all that!

Yet another document to circulate to make everyone's life easier....

PATRICK26

Hey,

I must’ve missed something or I’m not quite getting it—are you having trouble with paint for the exterior or interior? Just a quick reminder: white (or light-colored) paint helps keep your bodywork cooler only because it doesn’t absorb radiation, unlike dark paint. But that only works if the paint is exposed to the sun! For protecting your interior metal sheets, you can use any color you like—it won’t make a difference. As for treating the metal, check out what we did on our bus (Patrick26’s) near the end of the post about sheet metal (http://motorhome.blogs-de-voyage.fr/-_le_bus_bleu_de_patrick26_et_sjunior/).

Rustol is good if you’ve degreased the metal and left it exposed to the air for a few days without treating it, since it helps block rust... But don’t try it on your bus’s AMAsxmx chassis rails—I don’t think it’d be enough😉!

For insulation, the best method we used was applying one layer directly onto the bodywork, another behind the panels, and leaving an air gap in between (you can read all about it on the blog as soon as the weather isn’t *quite* so nice 😛!). I’d recommend using adhesive rather than staples to avoid compressing the material at every fixing point.

One last thing about paint: I’m no painter, and I don’t know how effective or expensive "heat-resistant" paint really is, but I’d still wonder about the technical differences between automotive paint and metalwork paint in terms of vibration resistance, flexibility, etc...

Catch you later!

Regarding the Gasperini system, I know the seller gave us a demo and assured us it was a good investment. What you're saying, Patrick, is true about the fittings, and Ju and I also thought we might not always find gas or LPG everywhere on our trips. The built-in generator system is really interesting, even though it's noisier and more expensive... (we're looking into whether we can run it on used cooking oil).

Sjunior: looks like you missed a part. Actually, I wanted to apply a layer of BLAXON inside before insulating, but I got worried because after a test I realized that BLAXON melts and gives off a nasty smell in the sun. So I'm afraid the bus's outer metal sheet will get too hot and melt the BLAXON on the inner layer. As for insulation, are you sure glue is the best option??? Personally, I don't think so—I prefer staples placed at regular intervals, which will hold the insulation evenly. Because over time and with settling, I think the glue will give out before the staples, and I don't want to take everything apart to check if it's still holding. Plus, I trust the metal of the staple over the chemicals in the glue... And are you sure two layers of insulation are enough??? Why not three while we're at it...??

Question for you all: who here has already lived in a converted vehicle, in hot weather as well as cold??? Because as you know, the vehicle heats up *very* quickly (especially when there are two people, and even faster with animals), and if you add a small heater like a Truma, I don’t think there’ll be much difference between the two insulation systems... Plus, you need vents so outside air can get in and vice versa... so why insulate so much???

The cost is already pretty high as it is—why increase it with things that might only matter in our heads??? I’m not trying to start a fight, but if that’s what you think, then you’re right to do it... after all, everyone has their own needs and desires... and especially their own budgets!!!

Oh, by the way, we recently visited a certified bus where people were living, and their total conversion cost was 6,000 € including the bus... and honestly, it was really nice, cozy, and clean. Seeing it and knowing the price gave us a boost because we thought it would cost at least double that...

hey everyone😉 I’ve got to admit, I don’t know which way to turn anymore🤪. Everyone’s giving me different advice😠. When you’re a newbie in this area and not great with electricity, it’s safe to say it’s not exactly straightforward😕. Could someone explain it to me in simple terms, with clear logic and examples—basically, something easy to understand😄? How do I power the vehicle when it’s stationary (just to clarify): pump, TV, video games, CD player, lights, coffee maker, etc.—and do this DAILY😏? I’m not worried about heating—it’ll run on gas. I know there are tons of options, and everyone swears by their own system. As for sellers, well, they just want to sell. I’m not counting every 100, 200, or 300 €. What I want to know is what I need to avoid running out of power. Nothing more complicated than that😄. Thanks to everyone for your answers😉 max24😎

Hi,

the DRIIRE told me that for reclassifying a TCP as a truck, you need:

* registration certificate request OK * registration document OK * copy of the description sheet of the base vehicle: if that's the red line of the TCP OK * empty weight ticket, in running order: without equipment or with? * seat removal certificate: I'm removing them myself, so which certificate is he talking about? * manufacturer's authorization for TCP to CTTE conversion? * body work certificate with load distribution calculation? * former public transport authorization (purple card)?

My DRIIRE appointment is next week