Day 19 – August 28
With a tally of over fifty thousand temples recorded, Bali truly lives up to its nickname as the island blessed by the gods. But choosing which temples to visit from this plethora of options can quickly turn into a Balinese puzzle… And once you’ve democratically elected a temple, you still have to earn the right to visit it. I’m not talking about paying the entrance fees here, but rather the etiquette rules you need to follow to avoid getting tossed out by the bouncer at the door. The basics—whether you’re part of the female or male gender—are to cover your legs with a sarong, that big colorful piece of fabric. Sorry if you’re non-binary; you’ll have to file a discrimination complaint since nothing’s mentioned at the entrance for that specific case, unlike the other rules exclusively for women who *must* tie up their hair. So far, so good—I’m doing fine… But a hair clip or elastic won’t help if Aunt Flo comes knocking, automatically banning you from the temple along with the dogs—no passing go! Same goes if a little one’s squatting in your baby-making department. Out you go, folks! And if you haven’t lost your first baby tooth yet, you’re also politely asked to go play with your toy cars elsewhere!
Anyway, all this to say that my poor little Flo just got rejected from the aptitude test at Taman Pecampuhan Sala temple, where we’d planned a somewhat particular activity. Despite her pocket-sized stature, Flo’s already lost her baby teeth… And no, I’m not using this post to announce the imminent arrival of a mini-Franck. So, since she’d carefully tied up her hair, the only thing left was that pesky monthly visitor that affects roughly one in two humans: "But why on earth didn’t you keep that bloody info to yourself?" The reason is elementary, my dear Watson-reader, and it’s tied to the unique activity we wanted to do at this water temple: a Hindu purification ritual!

What’s that all about, you ask? In Hinduism, purification is the process that leads to moksha. Besides scoring nineteen points in Scrabble, this word brings you spiritual liberation through the cleansing of body, mind, and soul with water… And how do you do that? Guided by a personal spiritual guide, the ritual includes a bath, a specific path in the bed of a sacred river with offerings to deity statues, plus a few sips of holy water while reciting mantras and sticking grains of rice on your forehead. There’s your menu for opening your chakras! Without fully grasping the tantric significance of each of my remotely guided movements, I still follow every recommendation to the letter, mostly enjoying the beauty of the theater of my inner quest. And what I can now tell you is that a renewed, pure, and regenerated man stands before you to recount the rest of our jaunt!



So, what do you think a pure man is meant to do when he’s in Bali? With nothing now clouding my mind, divine light naturally guides our accelerations toward waterfalls and temples! Again? Well, either I was already a pure man before this ceremony, or Bali ultimately boils down to just that! I don’t know about you, but I like to think the first reason prevails…

We start with Suwat Waterfall, which we selfishly enjoy in solo mode, then descend a long staircase with plenty of steps to the Gunung Kawi Tampaksiring temple—the first site of this jaunt I’d already explored eight years ago but that was practically begging for a comeback.




