A Bold Combo: Southern Peru, Bolivia, and Northern Chile (page 7 of 7)

the Argentine Puna, near the border, which holds two gems: the Cono de Arita and, above all, the Campo de Piedra Pómez !!

An area I wanted to explore along with the Salta region, combined with Iguazu Falls, but over two weeks, it felt a bit short (though maybe not for everyone ). Now that I have a bit more time, I’m thinking, "Too far (long transport), too expensive, too physically demanding (and the AMS?) ..." Anyway, I’m considering pairing Iguazu Falls with Brazil instead...

Originally, the first trip I wanted to take in South America was the Argentine Puna, starting from Salta. But the difficulties getting to Salta, and especially the lack of reliable 4x4 rental options, wore down my motivation. Apparently, the most reliable 4x4 rentals are on the Chilean side, around Calama. So I thought the best plan was to start the road trip in Chile, in Calama, and cross one of the two passes.

I’ll admit I was a bit put off this summer when I saw there could be heavy snowfall, enough to block access to Argentina... It’s still a real gamble to plan a three-week road trip without being sure you can even start it 😕 !

Day 20: Rainbow Valley and bathing in the Rio Puritama

Like 99% of people, I’d planned to visit the El Tatio geysers today. But after chatting with some French travelers in Bolivia, they told us they were really disappointed with El Tatio compared to Geysir in Iceland.

Since we’d already been underwhelmed by Geysir—especially next to the amazing geysers in Yellowstone—we figured we wouldn’t put ourselves through a 3:30 AM wake-up just to see some "weak" geysers that paled in comparison to what we’d already seen...

I guess the fatigue from this "slightly" adventurous trip had also worn down our motivation!

When we woke up, it was raining. Surprising for a region known for its aridity, and right in the middle of the dry season! I hadn’t even thought to check the weather since we arrived.

So, another change of plans! No swimming in Laguna Baltinache—we’re heading to Rainbow Valley instead.

The road there is definitely worth the detour.

A few more great encounters along the way.



There are two areas to explore in Rainbow Valley: the first has about ten petroglyphs to find, and the second is the rainbow valley itself. When we arrived, it started raining—almost a first for the trip!

Thanks to the map handed out at the entrance, we easily found the different petroglyphs.

We then got back in the car to head to the valley’s most famous section, home to the multicolored rocks that gave the valley its name.

The walk was in the rain, then even under small hailstones. The gray sky really made the valley’s different rock colors stand out, even if it didn’t show up well in photos.



There’s even a mini slot canyon—or maybe a micro slot canyon—at the end of the valley.

The weather got really bad, so we headed back to San Pedro de Atacama.

On the way back to SPA, we passed through a snowy pass. We realized we were lucky to have done Laguna Miscanti and Piedra Rojas yesterday, because the access roads had likely been closed again due to snow!!

Back in SPA for lunch at a restaurant to warm up a bit. The main street was flooded, and we had to walk through the mud. That’s the downside of the "Wild West" vibe...

Then we head north. The sun comes back along the way. Good thing, because a swim is planned in the warm waters flowing in the river.

There’s an option to bathe in the thermal waters of Puritama, but at over $20 for entry, that’s pricey for a small heated pool.

So there’s a free alternative: park 4 km further down, then follow the Rio Puritama to different swimming spots.

That’s what we do!

The canyon setting is stunning. The whole trail is maintained to let people walk through the heart of the vegetation.

What a contrast between the ochre colors of the canyon and these multiple green and yellow reeds, adapted to the river’s warm waters, growing abundantly at the bottom of the canyon.

We eventually find a double waterfall that tempts us. The water might not be as hot as in the thermal baths, but it stays lukewarm, around 30°C.

An amazing moment in total tranquility!

Everyone, or nearly, is in swimsuits and in the water!!

On the way back, we’ll only run into a couple swimming a bit further down.

We’re really sad because it’s our last night in our BnB before getting closer to Santiago, which marks the end of our journey...

Day 21: Tebenquiche Lagoon - Santiago

For our last morning in SPA, we head to the Tebenquiche Lagoon via an endless, smooth dirt road.

We arrive around 9 AM at the Tebenquiche Lagoon, where swimming is theoretically possible, but with water at 12°C in winter, takers will be few and far between!

Unfortunately, we have to wait nearly an hour since the site only opens at 10 AM!

When the site staff finally arrive, they explain that the previous day’s rain might have affected the lagoons’ purity. Since we didn’t anticipate this late opening, we have to cut our visit short.

Despite the rain the day before, the few lagoons have a stunning turquoise blue color in a "salt desert" atmosphere.





This is the lagoon where swimming is possible, but the cold makes it nearly impossible—unless you fancy catching a nasty cold...

The salt concretions blend beautifully with the lagoons’ pure blue!



Then, we just have time for lunch at the restaurant, enjoying a final Amaretto Sour before catching a bus to Calama.

In Calama, I take the opportunity to buy a few high-quality shirts at great prices—back to Latin American rates, not the typical American prices you find in the SPA region...

At the end of the day, we take a domestic flight to Santiago. The next morning, another flight to Madrid before the 7th and final leg of the trip, heading to Marseille.

Wrap-Up

In the end, three countries crossed, three very different vibes, but we loved all three regions we visited. The route was designed for diversity and stunning landscapes, and we got exactly that—even if the cold was sometimes a bit harsh.

The number of sites visited makes it feel like a very active trip, but we didn’t really feel that way during our journey, probably because the itinerary perfectly matched how we love to travel—packing every day (or almost) with unforgettable sights.

Thanks again to Bibouns for daring to try this slightly crazy route one day to see the best of three countries in just three weeks... and for convincing me to attempt the same kind of bold program...

This trip ranks in the top 3 for each of us, though not necessarily in first place—our first month-long trip to South Africa had a very special flavor...

Thanks for bringing this travel journal to life, and see you soon for new adventures! Just 4 days left until Los Angeles for a truly active trip exploring the Grand Canyon and beyond in Utah and Arizona...

Thanks Guillaume for this travel journal with stunning photos 🙂

The vibrant colors, the diversity of landscapes... it all made me dream (while avoiding the cold and the (many) 3 AM wake-ups 😏).

Thanks Guillaume! 🙂 The travel journal was amazing and really makes me want to go discover these three countries. I was thinking of a Bolivia/Northern Chile combo. Clever move—now Peru is catching my eye too with your journal and Carmen’s! !

Thanks for this travel journal and have a great trip to the USA! !😉

Thanks Guillaume for this travel journal—I’ll admit the pace wore me out a bit!

But that’s what you love, and the main thing is that you came back starry-eyed!!