07/08/2013
Before diving into the story of this final day, we’d like to thank everyone who cheered us on during this somewhat laborious task. We’re also grateful to those who shared valuable tips and those who posted their own travel stories—we’ve loved reading them. We’re happy we could offer a few ideas to some of you.
After a hearty breakfast, a taxi takes us to Vimanmek Palace, whose entry ticket is combined with the Grand Palace’s. Getting there seems tricky—several avenues are empty of vehicles, and in the distance, we spot police barricades.
In some areas, dozens of riot-control buses are parked, and that’s when we realize the law enforcement presence is massive. We head toward one of the barricades—it feels surreal. Plus, the officers are all laughing as we approach. The chief makes it clear: today, we’re not getting through. Time to fall back on Plan B.
With the taxi gone, we approach some students waiting at a bus stop. They kindly explain which bus to take, and soon we’re on one of those old Bangkok buses—usually packed, but ours is empty this early in the morning. The fare is minimal. We’re dropped off near a canal we need to follow to reach our destination. Crossing a small pedestrian bridge, we spot our last monitor lizard. We call out to say goodbye, and it stops swimming, perking up to listen to what we have to say.
On the opposite bank, we pass dozens of tents where entire riot-police units are killing time. Clearly, they find us hilarious. Every so often, a chief comes over to ask what we’re doing there—then ends up acting like a tourist office. It’s all a bit surreal, and aside from them, there’s not a soul around.
We had the bright idea to visit Wat Benjamabophit. The temple looks brand-new, with relatively few visitors and plenty to see—worth the detour. There’s a beautiful Buddha against a blue background, a set of stylized statues in the inner courtyard, several pretty buildings, and a mini *klong* flowing through the middle...
We take a breather on a bench, reflecting on the joys of the past few weeks. Suddenly, a loud *thud*—something smashes a meter from my wife’s face! It looks like a coconut, but it’s not. Not a durian either. Whatever it was, the hard-shelled fruit literally exploded on the ground. Stunned, we look up. Sure enough, there are fruits like that on the tree—but all on the other side. We nearly got hit by the only one hanging over the path. A revenge for all the fruit shakes we’ve downed?
On our way back, we outflank the police. “What are you doing here?” we ask. “Looking for a taxi—our feet are completely fried.” Oh, a taxi? The officer steps forward, flags one down, and opens the door for us. Isn’t life grand? Though if protesters showed up minutes later, the same friendly guys would be cracking heads with batons...
Before lunch, we still have time for a quick stop at Suan Pakkad Palace on Ayutthaya Road. Tucked between buildings, elevated walkways, and a main road, there’s a cluster of traditional houses. The French-speaking guide is included in the ticket price. True, it *is* French—but we still need to translate. It’s hard not to burst out laughing, but that’s what we’re fighting. Once again, we struggle to follow anyone like obedient puppies. We endure the tour of the pavilions, the museum with some interesting artifacts, and the garden. In one building, there’s an animated reenactment of a battle between two mythical armies—equal parts DIY, historical, and comical. It’s not bad, but not exactly a must-see either.
Of course, time flew by, and now we have to return to the Harmonique one last time. The two grandmas who are always together in the first room after the entrance recognize us right away, and we all have a good laugh. They must think we’ve taken out a subscription. Actually, we’ll temporarily adopt a Buddha belly.
All in all, considering the heat that often made us drink instead of eat at midday, combined with the humidity, all those hills to climb, and all that walking while sightseeing, we each came back two kilos lighter. Most of all, we’ll remember the warm welcome we received almost everywhere, the constant smiles, and the beauty of Southeast Asia’s landscapes.
If the winds are favorable, we’ll be back next year with stories and images from northern Laos, part of northern Thailand, and new spots in Bangkok.
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