Thailand Travel Journal: From Chiang Mai to Bangkok, We Didn’t Buddha Our Fun (page 7 of 11)

Classic but pretty 😉, and the little boy

Mine is a Javanese princess

So, we had to go back to Wat Sutthawat, and luckily, it was open this time. The interior is truly stunning, with flawless and vibrant frescoes.





We were even given access to the small chapel next door, where we discovered statues of King Naruesan and his brother Ekhathotsarot.

Wat Ton Son is a temple from the late Ayutthaya period, located near the technical college in Ang Thong. It was restored in 1945 and again in the 70s/80s. It covers a large area. Right at the entrance, we were greeted by a large seated Buddha, adorned with its parasol.



The first viharn we entered features dazzling frescoes covering all four walls.



The main temple is nothing short of grandiose. Marble floors, large colorful pillars, high ceilings, and of course, another impressive Buddha (19 meters tall and 14 meters wide)! This Buddha is elevated, and you can access it by climbing a few steps, where you’ll find more statues.



We made a quick stop at Wat Keschaiyo to admire the beautiful pair of golden Buddhas enthroned in a small room, which the caretaker kindly opened for us.

Finally, we wrapped up our long "countryside" journey at Wat Chantharangsi, about 4 km southeast of Ang Thong. It’s dedicated to the famous monk Phra Mongkol, whose statues, figurines, portraits, and wax replicas are everywhere. Thais pay their respects in front of large glass orbs, which we’d seen in smaller versions in other temples. You can’t miss the 4-meter-tall vases placed on either side of the largest statue.





Just a few steps away, a Chinese pavilion houses a large, colorful statue of the goddess Kunn Yin. At her feet, another golden statue has been adorned with long pearl necklaces. The pavilion is guarded by four fierce white marble lions, looking adorable with their thick pink ribbons.

As soon as we arrived in Bangkok, we headed to Queen of Curry for lunch. It's a restaurant with a great reputation that turned out to be pretty satisfying. Like most "trendy" spots, though, we still found it overrated. The service was slow, and we got an earful of the commercial music blasting from the bistro next door.

Still in the same neighborhood, Sathorn, we made our way to Wat Yannawa, "the boat temple." Its most obvious feature is a viharn shaped like a boat right in the middle of the grounds, tied to the fleet that once regularly traded with China.





On the ground floor of the main building, we saw a ton of amazing objects, including antiques from several Southeast Asian countries. Unfortunately, like other Chinese-style temples, photography and filming are banned here. We tried to ask why, and someone told us they feared the images might be misused online to mock Buddha. Not sure if that’s the real reason they gave us. And come on, telling *us* that? It doesn’t make sense! The camera clicked just before the official ban was enforced by all the vigilant staff, so at least we’ve got a tiny souvenir...



It was in this temple’s gardens that we finally understood why a tree so common near temples is called the Cannonball Tree. Until then, we’d only seen its flowers. Then you walk up to the tree and wonder what those rusty metal balls hanging from it are. When you realize they’re part of the tree, you’re pretty shocked!





A lot of tourists recommend spending part of the evening at Vivi Café, by the river near Wat Pho. Not only is the space a bit cramped, but since it’s not elevated, the view isn’t as amazing as some claim. We arrived half an hour before closing time and were left with the memory of a surly employee shooing us—and another couple—away with a curt and unpleasant: "Closed."

We definitely came out ahead. After a few minutes’ walk for our first Bangkok by night in ages, we discovered a rooftop on the 5th floor with a fantastic view of the river and the illuminated Wat Arun. Needless to say, we stayed a while, perched at our table right by the railing, soaking in the scenery. Plus, it was one of those summer nights with visible stars. On the other side of the rooftop, a few sofas offered a view of Wat Pho and the Royal Palace in the distance. No crowds, just a blessed moment.

The photo below the .....cannonball..... is really beautiful.

What’s the name of the rooftop on the 5th floor?

Great travel journal—thanks for sharing!

Isn’t it true we got a bit lucky with the weather this year for some photos?

As for the cannonball fruit, I can guarantee you don’t want to bump your head on it.

Thanks for reading—Bangkok is just getting started...

The day is gray. We decide to take a long-tail boat from Saphan Taksin Pier to see if it turns out more interesting than elsewhere. It doesn’t, since the official rates are set at 1,000, 1,500, and 2,000 baht for 1 hour, 1.5 hours, and 2 hours, respectively. Still, the ride along the klongs wasn’t the main goal, as we make another foray into Thonburi, the district west of the Chao Phraya where Bangkok was born.













Several temples coexist where we’re headed. First, of course, is Wat Paknam. It’s been around since the 16th century, and there’s clearly a crowd there: hundreds of monks, nuns, and novices. The small chapel is a marvel. Not only are the frescoes depicting Buddha’s life of the highest quality, adorned with gold illuminations, but those positioned below represent various royal temples, as well as monks and sovereigns.





In a courtyard between two buildings, the statue of a monk and that of an elephant are honored and covered in gold by throngs of pilgrims. We follow the flow of visitors up a staircase. Everywhere, there’s precious wood. And we emerge into a vast room where everyone is kneeling in prayer before the coffin of the venerable monk, who passed away in 1959 and turned a nearly abandoned temple into a global center for Buddhist faith. On a small platform along the windows, monks sit chanting. We never quite get used to it, and that’s a good thing.





We didn’t visit the gigantic 80-meter white chedi built just a few years ago at great expense. It’s said to be worth the trip—we’ll probably go back someday.

The small Wat Mo doesn’t quite measure up to its prestigious neighbor. Still, we pause for a moment in front of its mini-mountain, home to about thirty Buddhas, all draped in orange.



Wat Kun Chan completes the trio, in a radically different style. It seems they used up all the leftover colorful paint they hadn’t used for other temples here. It was written that we’d be treated to one last facet of temple grandeur: once again, we feel tiny beneath these towering figures...





Worth noting: the little neighborhood around these temples is full of old houses—a small preserved slice of old Bangkok...

In the Sathorn district, roughly south of Lumphini Park, visiting Mr. Kukrit Pramoj’s house is a fantastic idea. This extraordinary man was a banker, novelist, journalist, actor, and prime minister. He left behind his two-hectare urban estate, where he had traditional houses brought and reconstructed. Entry is 50 baht, with opening hours from 10 AM to 4 PM. This preserves another piece of old Thailand, with modern buildings in the background. The garden’s design on both sides is beautifully done. A bit off the main avenues, it’s a peaceful haven.





Those with some means who are planning to get married can rent part of the place to host family and friends for the reception and banquet. Just be careful not to wake up the next morning with a tiger in your room and a tattooed face...

We started admiring the antiques collected by the former owner, who passed away in 1995. There are still so many treasures gathered by a man who loved his country deeply.





However, our visit wasn’t quite complete this year because we were quickly approached by an elderly man sitting quietly, repairing odds and ends. We caught his eye, and he really wanted to chat with us. His confidence, experience, culture, and distinguished education were immediately apparent. When he explained—half in French, half in English—that he takes care of fixing small things, creating little art objects, and preserving his father’s legacy, we realized we were sitting with Mr. Rongrit Pramoj, son of Mr. Kukrit and great-great-grandson of Rama II. As a good host, he quickly had drinks brought to us. Time flew by as we chatted, and soon it was time for us to leave—we had a culinary meet-up at a specific time.

He then decided to have his driver take us. Seeing our hesitation, he said in his charming English accent, "You know, he uses the car to visit his mistress, so since he’s paid for it, he might as well drive the people I ask him to." No comment—it was so spontaneous and hilarious in that context. We’ve been spoiled this year by the variety and quality of the people we’ve met.

A post full of contrasts between ancient and modern architecture.

The encounter you had is surprising, unexpected, and very enjoyable.

An informative message with friendly photos—all of it is quite pleasant.

I think I know of a small museum near Payathai that houses a few old houses. An oasis of tranquility in the midst of bustling Bangkok. I’ve never been there... Who knows, maybe on my next trip... just forty more days to wait.

PS: As strange as it may seem, I’ve never thought to take photos of modern architecture in Thailand. When I see the results you get, it makes me want to try!

Hi Christophe,

The name you mentioned rings a bell, but I might have brought it up on the page linked below. Besides that, there’s still Jim Thompson’s house.

https://voyageforum.com/discussion/recit-quatre-semaines-thailande-sud-angkor-d6221971-7/

A lot of your posts in this thread are really interesting to us. We’d still love to be a fly on the wall and hear your overall impressions. We’re always a bit hesitant to show things that everyone sees just by going to Thailand. Still, those first few minutes after arriving—gazing at the skyline from the tollway—are a feeling we wouldn’t trade. The beautiful sky that morning made it easier to take photos, because otherwise... When you think about it, travel journals don’t really capture our trips. There are so many moments when we don’t feel like pulling out the camera, just living the moment 100%. That’s less of an issue for people who bring a small camera or phone—it’s also about convenience. Before meeting my little photographer, I almost never took vacation photos. Even a camera felt like a burden I didn’t want to deal with—I just wanted to live every moment intensely. When I film, I clearly feel like I’m missing out, and my experience of the moment is rarely as complete. But then, what a reward days, months, or even years later. Right now, you’re counting the days. The rest of us poor souls are counting the months!

Hi there, I think you're referring to Suan Pakkad Palace, "the cabbage garden," with its lovely houses and museum. The City Line runs right above it... It's really beautiful but more institutional and less intimate than Kukrit's House. You'll see it all soon—lucky you!

Hello and thank you for these stories. I’m sure many travelers draw inspiration from them. For example, last year, I spent a week in the beautiful Ayutthaya and visited a temple—I can’t remember its name—that’s full of automata and Vegas-style kitsch lights, an idea I got from one of your travel journals. I loved my walk through Kukrit’s House; it’s such a pleasure, and I visit every time I’m in Bangkok—I never get tired of it. I know the slightly strange but charming man you met. He’s the estate manager, a role his family has always held, employed by the Kukrit family for a very long time. I’m surprised he’s descended from King Rama II, but I wouldn’t want to cause anyone to lose face... it’s a serious matter.... He speaks fondly of 1950s Bangkok, when the *khlongs* surrounded the house. A lovely encounter—he likes to pick a few visitors to chat with, and in those cases, you get to stay after closing. You were chosen—congrats! Hope there are more stories to share. Have a great day!

Nolack was right—I went to check out that little museum similar to the one you visited. It’s indeed the Suan Pakkad Palace, or Suan Pakkard. Worth seeing if you get the chance...

As for J.T.’s house, I’ve never been there, even though I’m staying not too far away. So much to see and do, and so little time to do it.

Many of your posts in this thread are interesting to us. We’d love to be a little mouse and know the overall feeling.

Rest assured, my posts don’t represent the overall feeling—just mine, and that’s perfectly fine. 😉

Even a camera was a constraint I didn’t want to bother with—just living each moment intensely

It’s true we could debate the pros and cons of capturing images for a long time. The time spent taking photos isn’t a moment where you fully enjoy the place and the experience. On the other hand, it’s nice to have a few visual memories. Big debate.

Right now, you’re counting the days. The rest of us poor souls are counting the months!

Well, everyone gets their turn. I was envious when you were there...

Since I don’t have your talent for photography or writing, my travel journal will be shorter, and I won’t post photos—I never think they’re good enough. That said, it’s still nice to have beautiful photos to illustrate a travel journal. I remember your first photos in Chiang Mai, the park in the city center—gorgeous shots, and there were so many others.

Have a lovely evening! 🙂

Hello,

Thanks for your input!

He is indeed the estate manager, but he’s not employed by the family. He *is* the family. If you search for Rongrit Pramoj on Google and then look at the images, you’ll find a few photos of this gentleman. A bit younger, but you can definitely recognize him. The Thai site mentions two children for Mr. Kukrit—a son and a daughter. The photo of the son matches the man we met there. He told us directly that he was Mr. Kukrit’s son.

Absolutely—if you look into the father’s life, Kukrit Pramoj, you’ll see he and his older brother didn’t become prime ministers by chance. It’s clearly stated that they were the great-grandsons of Rama II.

I’ve concluded that if you don’t know someone is famous, you just see them as a regular person. Well, he did study in England, so he definitely has class...

The link I sent you does lead to the page of our travel journal where we went to Suan Pakkad. We preferred M Kukrit’s house, both for the place itself and its location.

Before we went in, we were smoking a cigarette on the big avenue where the buildings are. A cop was hanging around, waiting for us to toss our butts so he could fine us. When he saw we had a little box to recycle them, he was a good sport—gave us a thumbs-up, a big smile, and even congratulated us.

Interesting, indeed... I'll check Googlei. The ambiguity about his status is probably because I speak with him in Thai, English, and French—it’s bound to cause some confusion. Not easy, but the historical context you’re explaining makes the encounter even more moving. See you soon, looking forward to reading you again

So Françoise had spotted a restaurant she absolutely wanted to try. When she’s set on something, it’s usually a good idea.

The driver dropped us off at Siam Wisdom, in a quiet corner of Sukhumvit. This beautiful house was built around a large tree, which still thrives right in the middle. The new owner is French with Thai origins. She did us a favor by exceptionally letting us set up our table outside—usually, the clientele is high-end and dines in the air-conditioned rooms.



The concept is a rediscovery of lost traditional Thai recipes, in all their finest and most refined forms. We could only bow in admiration after having the chance to taste the results: everything was top-notch, with many unique flavors. We especially appreciated that the owner decided to vary the dishes so that we’d never have the same thing and could try a bit of everything. We didn’t think we’d still have the capacity to eat so much, but we have to admit we didn’t exactly force ourselves (well… maybe a little toward the end…).

And since pictures speak louder than words:





















Obviously, after that, there was no point in trying to visit a temple 😛

good evening this menu is amazing and what gorgeous photos kenavo

I'd love to put a name to these plates

On our last evening, we took a stroll to Nana Plaza, in one of the first streets of Sukhumvit. It’s an incredibly lively area once night falls. The side streets, packed with bars, open onto a square where other, quite different bars coexist—both on the first and second floors.

Nana Plaza is Ali Baba’s cave for broken hearts. It’s the wonderland of the lonely cowboy. It’s the revenge of the shy, the overweight, the unattractive, the abandoned, the unlucky. Nana Plaza is funny, terrifying, mind-blowing. It’s Fellini meets Bangkok.

Nana Plaza is a disco ball. You can see debauchery and lust, the devaluation of women’s image, the incredible tolerance of a society, a garden of pleasures, a marketplace of happiness. Everyone will see something different depending on their level of awareness and consciousness. Of course, the perspective will vary wildly whether you’re a religious person, a bitter young or old individual, an opportunist, or a young man blessed with extraordinary sensuality. But that’s also what makes Amazing Thailand. Life isn’t something you can arbitrarily subtract from or add to based on what suits you.

Obviously, it’s hard for any guy not to have his eyes pop out at the sight of this nest of smiling, (un)dressed women looking as sexy as can be. It’s a bit like a cat suddenly seeing fifty mice scurrying around and not knowing which one to pounce on first. There’s also that indescribable feeling you get from seeing young women who aren’t quite what they seem—so much so that you think some aren’t, even when they actually are.

Françoise was amazed. You really have to see it to believe it. It’s true that it’s nothing like those sordid corners around the world where everything is dark, gloomy, and the faces are unsettling. At Nana Plaza, it’s all about frenzy, conviviality, light, music, and color. There are one or two bars specializing in pseudo-BDSM, and the girl in front of the entrance has a little accessory she uses—and abuses—to spank passersby. When it happened to Françoise and she turned around to see who did it, she came face-to-face with a tiny Thai woman laughing hysterically, a laugh that was terribly contagious.

We only stayed a few minutes but spent much longer on the terrace of a bar almost opposite the square. The entire spectacle unfolding before us far surpassed anything we could’ve seen on TV. Just those two bunnies singing at the top of their lungs in the street with their rabbit ears...

As the song goes: "One night in Bangkok makes a hard man humble," but I’d also say that one night in Bangkok makes a humble man hard...



The next morning, we dangerously ventured closer to the tourist district with a little walk through the mini neighborhood of Phraeng Phuton, near the Tiger Shrine. It’s filled with identical wooden houses housing shops and cafés. It’s a nice change from what you usually see in the city.



Before ending our trip with our traditional pilgrimage to Chinatown, we visited Wat Rajapraditsathit Mahasimaram Rajavaravihara to atone for our sins from the night before.

We don’t know what we give to Thailand in return, but it sure gives it back to us!