Three weeks in Japan with the family (page 7 of 9)

For our stay in Tokyo, after hesitating and weighing up all the possible options with great perplexity, I opted for an apartment in Shibuya.

The mural



The rest of the day is dedicated to exploring Shibuya, its famous pedestrian crossing, and a few of its many shops.













The first stop is Tokyu Hands, a large store with old-school charm, packed with wonders like all sorts of kitchen utensils and bento boxes. Exploring its different floors takes us a good while.

Next up is Muji, where we discover the full range of their products. No fewer than 7 floors that we wander through from top to bottom. Clothes, home decor, and "everything for the house," of course, but also travel gear, camping equipment, and food.

The day ends with a visit to a *purikura*, a real hangout for Japanese teenage girls. *Purikura* (short for *print club*, or *purinto kurabu*) are essentially photo booths that can fit about eight people. The machine takes several photos, which participants can then select. There are tons of options to spruce up the photos on a touchscreen: text, emojis, and other stamps can be added. Each step is timed, probably to avoid hesitation and wasted time (and lost revenue). The photos are then printed and sent to smartphones. All of this is set to J-pop and high-pitched voices—an experience in itself. It’s not just the teenagers having fun; we end up with photos featuring velvety skin, rosy lips, and big doe eyes, since the machine smooths out imperfections and "enhances" the subjects.

Wednesday, August 17: Visit with Tokyo Free Guide – Yoyogi Park - Meiji Shrine - Harajuku - Takeshita Street - Omote Sando - Odaiba

For this day, I got in touch with Tokyo Free Guide (http://www.tokyofreeguide.org/) for a city tour with a Tokyo local—or rather, a Tokyoite. My idea was to discover a Tokyo seen through the eyes of one of its residents, a bit "off the beaten path" to use that overused expression. In this case, we only saw very classic spots. So, the "off the beaten path" part didn’t work out (besides, I’m not sure that concept is even understood by the Japanese). But the conversations with Yumiko, who spoke pretty good French, were enriching and helped us grasp the cultural gap between our two countries. Yumiko has two grown children around the same age as ours, so she had great chats with our two teens. I think it was actually them who convinced her to be our host for the day.

The walk started with a stop at one of the area’s new shopping complexes, which let us see once again the Japanese love for gastronomy—and big French names. Along the way, we admired the famous intersection from a new angle.

Next, we head to Yoyogi Park and the Meiji Shrine, a vast Shinto complex just one subway station from Shibuya.

Sake casks and fine French wines.





The shrine is famous for its Shinto wedding ceremonies, though these mostly take place on weekends. It’s also a popular spot for New Year’s celebrations, as Yumiko explains. During that time, it’s absolutely packed.





Back to Harajuku, where Takeshita-dori awaits. Takeshita-Dori is a 400-meter pedestrian street teeming with people, where trendy fashion stores alternate with accessory shops and food stalls.









And the famous Marion Crêpes with its permanent line.

Just a few steps away—really, just a few—lies the peaceful haven of another Shinto sanctuary.





A little farther on, it’s definitely quieter…





…but no less wild.



And here’s Omote Sando with its luxury boutiques and sleek, modern buildings.

There’s a nice walk you can take by going down the alley in front of Marion Crêpes and a small staircase on the right...

Thanks. Is this the Shinto shrine I mention later or something else?

Yes, that’s the one. I hadn’t seen that part of your message when I wrote mine… so I’m a bit out of sync. At least it gives info on how to get there…

At least that gives an idea of how to get there...

Absolutely. It’s a shame to miss out when it’s so close. The contrast in even less than 3 minutes of walking is striking.

A lovely travel journal with lots of info and photos—I’m also looking forward to the Tokyo update ;)

Thanks for the message. Continuing with Toyo

So, next up

After a meal in one of the many restaurants in the numerous shopping malls, the next stop is Odaiba, an artificial island in Tokyo Bay, built on landfill. To get there, we take the automated Yurikamome monorail. The lack of a driver lets you enjoy a great view of the city from the front carriage.



Built in the 19th century to protect Tokyo, Odaiba flourished in the 1990s. Mostly made up of office buildings and shopping centers, it’s a getaway spot for Japanese people, with thousands of shops and a whole range of entertainment—huge arcade rooms, theme parks, onsen, and even a few museums. It’s all pretty over-the-top. Odaiba is constantly evolving, with new developments planned for the 2020 Olympics.

A small beach… but no one seems to want to swim there. No kidding!



The Statue of Liberty



Rainbow Bridge



And the Fuji TV building



And the life-sized Gundam.

Yumiko finds us the Ghibli store where we buy three (nothing less! I wanted one as a birth gift, and our two older kids took the opportunity to each get one too) big Totoro plushies. Will they all fit in the suitcases? The suspense is killing me.



On the way back, we skip the monorail and take a boat instead. Beautiful views of Tokyo in the sunset.

Off we go for a quick stop at Tokyu Food Show, with even more amazing food before heading back to the apartment.

ThursdayAugust 18: Tour with Tokyo Safari

I was particularly satisfied with our visit to Osaka Safari, so I decided to repeat the experience in Tokyo. Luckily, David—who founded Tokyo Safari and invented the concept—had a free day. So off we went for a private tour of Tokyo to discover its "hidden details."

We met at the Tokyo International Forum, with its sleek lines. Designed by architect Rafael Viñoly, it resembles a massive ship and hosts everything from congresses to concerts and sporting events. It’s quite majestic—a great start to the day.



Nearby, there was a civil safety awareness event, featuring, among other things, an earthquake simulation cabin. On David’s advice, we gave it a try after some hesitation. We experienced the great Kobe earthquake—it really shakes you up!



We continued exploring the neighborhood. David shared a ton of insights about Tokyo’s urban development—it was really interesting.





Here’s the train station, which can move as a single block during earthquakes: it rests on a flexible structure with 20/30-centimeter gaps to allow lateral movement.



A stop at this quirky company let us chat over coffee. It’s actually a lab focused on improving working conditions. You can walk around freely—but discreetly. Quite the concept!



The urban highways serving all of Tokyo were built over canals to avoid constraints: no need for expropriations, and it’s faster. It’s pretty ugly but effective.





Off we go! A quick stop at a department store to check out traditional sandals, made to order, and kimonos. It’s simply outrageously priced—even the sandals.



And back again! A visit to the fully computerized stock exchange.

One subway ride later, and we're savoring delicious gyozas.

Before heading to a temple for a drum ceremony just a few steps away. (No photos of the ceremony.)

Another subway ride, and this view of the city toward the bay opens up to us. Did I mention that since arriving in Tokyo, we’ve been on typhoon alert? We even weathered one on the first day—not too bad.



Miyazaki’s clock.



We stop for a late lunch and try one of the two dishes we’re missing from the 22 Japanese culinary specialties we’re supposed to have tasted, according to the list my dad sent three days earlier (http://www.topito.com/top-specialites-japon-defoncent-monde-sushi-ramen-udon): shabu-shabu, a kind of Japanese hot pot. Only natto left to try. 😅 But that’ll be for later.

View from the restaurant. The weather isn’t improving.

A quick stop at a trendy shopping arcade, and then it's off to Akihabara, the temple of arcade halls. David introduces us to one of the many rhythm games. I watch the players around us and wonder how they manage to play so fast. It's impressive. Are they mutants who can predict what's coming next?









But Akihabara isn’t just about game centers, otakus, and maid cafés. David shows us some more niche and specialized shops:

- Robot shops



- Model train shops. The Japanese—well, some of them—have a truly astonishing devotion to trains.



- And electronics component stores of all kinds. Once plentiful in the neighborhood, these tinkerer’s shops have now dwindled to just a few.

One more short metro ride and we’re in the musical instrument district. David leaves us there, but not before showing us how to continue our walk to the secondhand bookshop district—much to the delight of our eldest, who’s a huge book lover in every genre.

One more short metro ride and we’re in the musical-instrument district. David left us there, but not before showing us how to continue our walk to the secondhand-bookshop district—much to the delight of our eldest, who’s a total bookworm.

Ah, the Akihabara/Ochanomizu/Jinbocho walk! I’d stumbled on it by accident in the opposite direction, trying to see the famous train crossing. Along the way, you can visit the Orthodox church or grab a bite in a restaurant dedicated to *Thunderbirds*, Lady Penelope’s famous show…

Hello,

I devoured your Japanese travel journal, and since we're planning a trip there in March-April, I think I'll follow your itinerary while adding a few extra days here and there, taking advantage of our retired status to extend our stay. Speaking of which, I have a few questions:

Which stops do you recommend extending by 1 or 2 days to wander a bit without getting bored? I'm torn between the islands, the Japanese Alps, or maybe both, and/or a big city? Of course, it depends on our tastes, but maybe you can give me some pointers...

Regarding car rental for the circuit in the Japanese Alps, how did you go about it? Did you book before departure or at the last minute on-site? What was the cost of the rental? And I read that you need a driver’s license translated into Japanese—did you get that done in France before leaving? Are the roads easy to drive and wide enough (I also read that some mountain roads are very narrow)? Was the excursion you took in the Alps (turquoise waters) difficult? (We hike without issues, but steep elevation gains put us off a bit.)

I was really interested in your Osaka Safari and Tokyo Safari experiences—it’s probably a great way to learn more about the country’s customs and traditions. Are both equally interesting?

Thanks in advance for your answers to these first questions. I’m sure there’ll be more—I usually plan my trips alone (always with VF’s help, which is invaluable), but for this Japan trip, I feel like I’m stepping into another world! Looking forward to reading your replies, and once again, bravo for this travel journal—it’s a goldmine of information for us. Best regards.

Thanks so much for your message—it really made my day! I’ll get back to you with more details later, but I can already tell you that the walk in Kamikochi is very flat and not very long—really a pretty dull stroll.

Thanks for your quick reply—I’m looking forward to the rest with great interest and excitement. Enjoy your vacation if you’re taking one! Best regards

Good evening,

This is a very personal choice, but if I only had a few extra days, here’s what I would have done: - One more day in Kyoto to do the hike between Kumara and Kibune (www.insidekyoto.com/kurama-to-kibune-hike) - Maybe a stop in Okayama to visit the garden, but mostly for the Kibi Plain (lespetitspapiersdemelo.wordpress.com/...e-kibi-...) and Kurashiki (www.kanpai.fr/kurashiki) - Without a doubt, if it’s a Setouchi Triennale year, a few extra days in the Seto Inland Sea to visit Shodoshima, Ogijima, or even push on to Takamatsu; - One more day in the Japanese Alps to enjoy the *onsen*. For example: www.japan-kudasai.com/...onsen-takayama-gifu/

With all that, it might well add up to an extra week! 😉

Otherwise, I’d like to point you to Jipangu (jipangu.fr/), a map of Japan listing articles from a number of blogs. Really handy.

For the car, we booked through Tocoo a while back (www2.tocoo.jp/en/). We were already in Japan, I think, when I made the online reservation. I don’t remember the price, but you can easily run a simulation. I had my license translated in France (didn’t want to waste time on the spot, since the places where you can get it translated aren’t very close to tourist sites). The roads we took were more than manageable—much easier than the roads in the Alps (though looking at the maps, you can tell some must be trickier). Some tunnels were really long, making it impossible to overtake. If you end up behind a slow driver, you just have to be patient.

Angelo (Osaka Safari) is a huge Osaka fan and really goes out of his way to showcase the city. It’s great fun. However, his explanations aren’t as detailed as Davis’s (Tokyo Safari). If your budget allows, I’d say the two are complementary.

Hope this helps! Don’t hesitate if you have more questions.

I’ll try to find time to post the remaining days of our trip.