Bolivia: Exploring the South Lipez by Self-Drive (page 7 of 21)

Tell me, it seems like you're heading to Namibia next summer and you've planned Argentina for 2021. You're also looking into Peru and Bolivia... Are you planning several years in advance, or did you win the lottery?

Yes, you're right, it's not on the agenda for the immediate future. For us, Bolivia is financially out of reach in July-August, with a weekend departure and return. But who knows, maybe a computer error or a Parisian hacker will mess up the prices... 😇! And it would be a real shame to buy tickets later and realize that with the Greenland-like temperatures, we wouldn't be able to follow your tracks (camping impossible...). In tour operator brochures for 5- to 7-day South Lipez tours (departing from SPDA), we often see the option "climb such-and-such a volcano...". I thought it was just to brag about it later, saying we'd climbed a 5,000m peak, but seeing your photos, it's become a real must-do that might even be on your Must list. Thanks for making us dream 😇 !

Breathtaking!!! That was clever—I’m regretting it now.... Gotta go back!!!!

Yes, you’ve got to go back...🙂

Tunupa is my travel highlight. An incredible view of the Salar, stunning colors, and the chance to walk for hours. What more could you want?🙂

But you never know—maybe a computer error or a hacker

you can also find some in the Var 😏

You never know—maybe a computer error or a hacker

you can also find some in the Var department 😏

Well... I was kinda counting on your help... 🏴‍☠️ 😏!

Like Nathalie, Wow! These photos of the crater and the view are amazing! But I’m not sure I’d be able to climb up there 🙁. I’m waiting for your feedback on your first night in the car and how you settled in 😏

Super simple—we just fully reclined the front seats and slept on them. Nothing more complicated than that.😛

I did the same thing in Iceland for 6 nights. The trick is not to recline the seats all the way to avoid feeling a lump in your lower back. Don’t forget a small cushion for your neck, because the gap between the top of the seat and the headrest is brutal for your cervical spine. Also, put a bag or something on the floor under your feet to keep your legs more horizontal. Bernard.

Gorgeous photos 😇! Do you remember how long it took you to get to Isla Pescado from Tunupa (where there are accommodations nearby)? For those who don’t want or can’t camp on the island, depending on the season, this could help figure out if it’s still possible to enjoy the sunset on Pescado. Thanks!

Hi there. According to the itinerary I’m preparing, there are 33 km between Coqueza and Isla Pescado. 22 km between Pescado and Isla Incahuasi, 39 km between Coqueza and Incahuasi, and 77 km from Incahuasi to Colchani. Bernard.

Thanks Bernard for the details. 🙂

Hi Carmen,

The car got stuck, it’ll be there all day.

Couldn’t you do anything to help them? How did they manage to get out?

Your photos of the Tunupa are amazing.

Thanks Bernard for your details. 🙂

Indeed, the kilometers Bernard mentioned are correct—we took less time than I thought.

There’s also a small island with cacti near Jirira.

Hi Carmen,

The car stuck in the mud, it stayed there all day.

Couldn’t you do anything to help them? How did they get out of it?

Your photos of the Tunupa are amazing.

Hey there🙂

No, where it was stuck, we couldn’t go without getting stuck ourselves. It was a 5-minute walk from Coquesa, so they could easily look for help.

Hello everyone,

In the tour operator brochures for 5- to 7-day South Lipez tours (departing from SPDA), you often see the option "ascent of such-and-such volcano...". I thought it was just to brag about it later, saying we’d climbed a 5,000m peak, but seeing your photos, I think it’s actually a must-do that might even be on your bucket list now.

Same here!

Thanks Carmen for the discovery and the wow effect!

Cécile

Hi Carmen. The small island you’re talking about, near Jirira, must be Isla Sajchilla. Bernard.

Hi Carmen. The small island you're talking about, near Jirira, must be Isla Sajchilla. Bernard.

That’s possible—it’s near the small island where they’re going to build glass igloos.

Hello everyone,

In the tour operator brochures for 5- to 7-day South Lipez tours (departing from SPDA), you often see the option "ascent of such-and-such a volcano...". I thought it was just to brag about it afterward, saying we’d climbed a 5,000m peak, but seeing your photos, I think it’s become a real must-do that might even be on your Must list now.

Same here!

Thanks Carmen for the discovery and the wow effect!

Cécile

Yes, Tunupa is a must. However, I don’t know which route the tour operators take. If it’s just driving from Jirira and doing a short hike to a viewpoint, it might not be worth it. So, it’s best to check beforehand.

Carmen

Hello Carmen,

Yes, Tunupa is a must.

Yeah, it’s so beautiful 😛 😎 We were a bit too lazy (and short on time) and only made it to the mummies—what a shame, it gets even more beautiful after that... bravo 🙂

On Isla Pescado, did you see the cove with the cave? That’s where we slept... it’s so magical sleeping on the salar 😎

Bravo for not compromising at all—your trip is truly amazing 😎 I’d go back in a heartbeat...

Hi Jean-François,

At Isla Pescado, did you see the cove with the cave? That’s where we slept... it’s so magical sleeping on the salt flat 😎

Yes, we saw the cove, but there was no wind, so we didn’t have to take shelter.

It’s thanks to you and Airone that we slept on the salt flat. We followed your advice and didn’t regret it. Sleeping on the Salar is definitely a must. 🙂

Carmen

Hello,

In tour operator brochures for 5- to 7-day South Lipez tours (departing from SPDA), you often see the option "ascent of such-and-such a volcano...". I thought it was just to brag about it afterward, saying we’d climbed a 5,000m peak, but seeing your photos, I think it’s actually become a must-do that might even be on your Must list.

Just a heads-up that not far from San Pedro de Atacama, you can climb the Cerro Toco volcano (5,604 m) "pretty easily".

From the summit, you get a view of Licancabur and the Bolivian lagoons, among other things. 🙂

https://sites.google.com/site/fabuleuxvoyagesbolivie/cerro-toco

@ Ticapi, Great photos! They remind me of one of our most beautiful trips and, at the same time, show me places we didn’t have the energy to reach by the end of our stay (the Tunupa area).

Looking forward to more! 🙂

Hi Christine, It was on your travel journal that I discovered, a few years ago now, the incredible landscapes of the Atacama Desert, the Sud Lípez, and the Puna. Thanks to you and Hervé for your blog! 🙂

I’d like to point out that not far from San Pedro de Atacama, you can climb—"fairly easily"—Cerro Toco volcano (5,604 m).

From the summit, you get a view of Licancabur and the Bolivian lagoons, among other things.

I just revisited the link to your Cerro Toco ascent. Good thing you put "fairly easily" in quotes—it was quite the adventure!

11.10. Salar de Uyuni – Las Rocas, night in the car

We woke up at dawn, and despite the lack of comfort in the car, we slept really well and didn’t suffer from the cold at all. Once we wriggled out of our sleeping bags, it was still pretty chilly. We put on our fleeces and down jackets and went to take some photos.

I climbed partway up the island to get a view of the Salar from above. The colors were beautiful, there wasn’t a sound, and we’d picked the right island to enjoy the sunrise in peace.























Our breakfast was simple—some crackers, an apple, and chocolate we’d brought from Switzerland. The cup of coca mate was perfect for warming our frozen hands, and the little stove from Biz came in handy.

We drove to Incahuasi Island but didn’t stop. Yesterday, there were hardly any people, but this morning, about twenty cars were parked in front of the island. We continued toward Colchani and made several photo stops. The Salar de Uyuni is truly amazing!



Incahuasi





The edges of the Salar were very wet, so we had to find the right path to access the exit ramp. A tour operator arrived, and we let them go first, following their tracks. There was quite a bit of water mixed with salt and dirt—a perfect recipe for getting stuck. The tour operator weaved between puddles and spots that looked really soft. But with a little care, it was easy to find the way out.

In Colchani, we bought some cookies, a packet of tomato soup, and cheese from a small shop and filled up on gas. Next stop: Uyuni, where we picked up bread and balloons at the market and eggs from a little store.

Uyuni

The road to San Cristóbal was under construction, so we were moving much slower than planned. We got another 10 liters of gas at the station—it’s the last pump before Tupiza. Then we stopped to eat at a small restaurant. Two tour operators were also there, but they’d brought their own food and drinks. We’d see this setup a few more times: the tour operators used the tables, restrooms, and sometimes even the kitchen, but they brought their own supplies—even plates and cutlery. The restaurant owner made us soup, a piece of meat, rice, potatoes, and vegetables.

San Cristóbal Church

At Alota, we turn off toward Villamar Mallcu. The track is corrugated metal, and several times Benoît takes a side trail. One of the tracks veers away from the main road, and we’re no longer heading in the right direction. But luckily, this little path leads us to a stunning spot. Rocks of all shapes are here. We stop and take a short walk around the site before heading back toward Estancia Catal, hoping to find a Guest House.











When we arrive at Estancia, there is indeed a Guest House, but the state of the house doesn’t make us want to sleep here.

We continue to Laguna Negra. The small track between Estancia Catal and the lagoon is very winding and narrow, and we have to cross a fairly deep ford. We walk around this beautiful site, an oasis in this stone desert. The lagoon has very little water, so we can cross it without any problem. There are a few arrows painted on the ground to show the direction to take.







Then, we climb up the rocks to admire the site from above. A few viscachas also seem to enjoy the rocks around the lagoon. The place is magnificent—too bad camping isn’t allowed here.











We prepare dinner while it’s still light—scrambled eggs and a big cheese sandwich each. We consider ignoring the no-camping rule here but ultimately decide to return to the site with the beautiful rocks we stumbled upon earlier. On maps.me, the place is called “Rocks.” We arrive just before nightfall—perfect.

The rest is here: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=9912810;a=9912810