In the Land of Mountain Gorillas: The Story of an "Epic" Trip (page 7 of 8)

Thanks for this travel journal and these amazing photos!

It’s making me consider a trip to this country for next summer.

Day 18

Safari this morning! It's still pitch black, we cautiously step out of the banda—no hippos in sight. It's 6:00 AM when we grab our takeaway breakfast. And we leave camp 15 minutes later to catch the ferry that will take us across the Nile, to where the savanna awaits.😎



After a 5-minute drive, we spot a savanna hare and arrive at the banks of the Nile. We're the first ones here. Since it's still dark, we wait for sunrise before getting out of the car. The first ferry is at 7:00 AM, so while we wait, we dig into muffins and fruit salad. Breakfast with a view of the Nile this morning—every bite is pure bliss.🙂





We board the ferry right on time—cars first, then passengers on foot. I'm super curious to see this park, which is described as one of Uganda's most beautiful.

After a few minutes crossing, during which we admire egrets leaving their roost, we're already on the other side! The safari can begin. And we see animals in abundance. Compared to Akagera and Queen Elizabeth parks, the wildlife here seemed less sparse—or maybe just less hidden ;-) The savanna is stunning, dotted with acacias and palm trees. It's simply breathtaking!😎😎



















After a solid two hours in the savanna, we head to explore the shores of Lake George. An African hoopoe sits surprisingly still on a branch. I love its English name—"hoopoe"—every time I say it, I'm instantly transported back to Africa















Then, the sun gets stronger. Animals hide in the bushes to stay cool. We take the midday ferry back to camp for lunch. They don’t do packed lunches here. It’s hot—really hot—around 35-40 degrees.



With full bellies, we enjoy the shade, eyelids growing heavy. Honestly, we *really* could’ve used a nap, but we head out for the boat tour at 2:00 PM.

Day 18 (continued)

We made it—just barely. I even forgot to take a photo of the boat. We settled in upstairs; there’s a bar on board, but the drinks are outrageously priced. Count on $5 for a Sprite!

The Nile is calm, and the boat glides slowly along its waters. Hippos, crocodiles, elephants, and warthogs are everywhere. Not to mention the birds—we even spot African skimmers (yay!)😎. The Nile lulls us, and with the heat, our eyelids start to droop despite ourselves. Luckily, the guide’s chatter snaps us back to reality. We’re on the Nile, after all!





















After an hour and a half of sailing, we reach the base of the falls, but with the rapids, we can’t get too close—they stay relatively far away. A moment of doubt: is it planned that we hike up to the top of the falls? Ronnie told us before leaving, “see you on the other side.” Did that mean he’d pick us up at the top? We’d rather not push our luck, so we head back with the boat. If we misunderstood and Ronnie isn’t there, the boat will have already left, and we could end up waiting a while before he comes to get us.







Back on solid ground, Ronnie is waiting for us. Phew! He drives us to the top of the falls. After about forty minutes, we arrive as the sun begins its slow descent. The light is beautiful, golden. It was worth coming all this way. We’re left breathless by so much splendor...









We head back as dusk settles in. A warthog must’ve gotten the scare of its life crossing the road. Poor thing... Dinner for two, accompanied by a glass of delicious South African Chardonnay. What a lovely way to end 2019! Happy New Year! 😉

I wondered for a while if you’d ditched Ronnie or if, for once, he’d stepped up (finally done his job, you know)...🤪

The top of the falls at sunset is gorgeous—the colors are amazing. You must’ve just made it back before dark. Muriel

Hi Esther,

We really loved Murchison NP—the wildlife was out in full force, and we enjoyed the scenery.

Your photos of the waterfalls at the end of the day are gorgeous.

Carmen

Day 19

Last safari this morning before leaving Murchison Falls Park. It's January 1st—what better way to start the year! 😎 At 6:00 AM, we're at reception. We check out and wait for our takeaway breakfast (x2). Instead of a packed lunch, we convinced the camp manager to let us take a double breakfast for the road. But things are slow this morning. Instead of a hippo concerto, we heard music coming from deep within the camp. The staff was partying while most tourists were still dreaming. And this morning, it’s tough going ;-)

We meet before dawn by the Nile. This time, three cars are ahead of us.

At 7:15 AM, we’re on the other side, ready to see whatever Mother Nature has in store.



Well, it’s a morning of herbivores—we only see them. Even the birds are fewer than yesterday. Not to mention the predators, which are completely absent. And to think tourists only look for lions! A Spanish tourist tells us they were spotted early this morning near the airstrip. All the guides are on alert, looking grim. Large herds of Kobs gather near the airstrip… a glimmer of hope, then disappointment for some… yet nature is so beautiful! We soak up these last hours before leaving Murchison Falls. 🙂















At 10:00 AM, we leave behind the part of the park we’d explored so far. We exit through the northeast, Wankwar Gate, just before 11:00 AM. The section leading there is almost deserted—it’s oribi paradise, they’re jumping everywhere. We look for the palm-nut vulture but don’t see a single one…







No African massage on the road—this section is in perfect condition. We eat the rest of our breakfast-picnic while driving. We only stop at a gas station to buy a nice cold Crest :-) And we arrive at Ziwa Sanctuary in the mid-afternoon, where we’re greeted by a small group of warthogs 😎







This is the only place in Uganda where you’ll find rhinos. They’re protected and monitored 24/7. Currently, 30 white rhinos live in the sanctuary.

We pick our room in the guesthouse and settle on the terrace. But first, a safety briefing—no joking around with rhinos, and no walking alone after dark. In fact, we’ll have to wait for our escort before heading to the restaurant.





The few afternoon hours are spent sorting photos, reading a bit, and updating the travel journal. We have drinks—my friend keeps making trips to restock our Crest supply. So much so that we finish their stock. Though we only had three each… 😛 A male bushbuck keeps us company, shading itself under a small bush. We also spot a pair of crowned duikers/Common Duikers, who don’t seem to notice we’re watching them.





At 6:45 PM, the on-duty ranger comes to get us for dinner—just in case there are rhinos around. Again, we’re warned not to venture outside at night since rhinos come to sleep in the garden. Got it! We’ll patiently wait to see them tomorrow morning.

Dinner is simple—we’re the only customers in the restaurant. Though we can’t really say we’re alone—there are at least twenty geckos having dinner with us. Small flies are out too…

I wondered for a while if you’d dumped Ronnie or if, for once, he’d stepped up (well, if he’d actually done his job, you know)....🤪

The top of the falls at sunset is gorgeous—the colors are amazing. You must’ve just made it back before dark. Muriel

Well, I *would’ve* dumped him, but unfortunately, we had to put up with him until the last day. Though I think he finally got the message to stop showing off. And the last week, he more or less behaved... I should’ve lost it before Bigodi...

Yeah, we got back after dark... 🤪

Hi Esther,

We really loved Murchison NP—the animals were out in full force, and we enjoyed the scenery.

Your photos of the waterfalls at the end of the day are gorgeous.

Carmen

Hi Carmen,

Murchison is without a doubt one of my favorite parks in Uganda. I’d say Mgahinga and Murchison really touched me with their beauty.

It was pretty magical and romantic being up at the waterfalls at sunset, just the two of us... 😎

I highly recommend it! That said, it’d be better to leave a little earlier than we did to avoid driving back at night and scaring those poor animals...🤪

Thanks for this travel journal and these amazing photos.

It makes me consider a trip to this country for next summer

Thanks I can only recommend it—this country is stunning! And you’ll come back with incredible memories!

Day 20

Peaceful night. If there were rhinos, we didn’t hear them.

We head to the restaurant at 7:00 AM as agreed the night before. Sure enough, rhinos came wandering around during the night, judging by the tracks they left everywhere . Apparently, there’s still one lingering near the staff cottages...

No one in sight—did they forget about us? By 7:10, there’s some activity in the kitchen. At 7:30, we get our plates. Breakfast is pretty basic.

We have fun watching the rangers’ marching drill. A warthog seems to want to join in—it’s so funny, it follows the rangers .

We’re waiting for two more tourists—hey, they look familiar. Sure enough, we recognize each other, say hi, and remark how small the world is. They were sitting right behind us on the boat to Murchison Falls . Then, we listen to the safety briefing and set off by car to look for rhinos. After a few minutes, we pull over and continue on foot.



Single file, we follow a path worn by the rhinos and arrive in a clearing where 11 rhinos (moms and babies, including one barely 3 months old) are grazing peacefully together. After a few minutes, they scatter, and we follow (or rather, they follow *us* and make us back up 😉) “Bella,” the mom, and her 18-month-old baby, named “Kageri.”















We’re really lucky to observe them relatively up close. After about thirty minutes, our time is up. We grab our things, stop by the souvenir shop, and head for the capital, Kampala. Entering the city is slow—traffic is dense and chaotic. We have lunch around 1:00 PM on the terrace of the restaurant at the Uganda National Museum. They offer a buffet with Ugandan food. We eat really well (I forgot to take pictures of the place 😕).

Then, we stop at the Craft Market in Kampala. We buy a few souvenirs before taking the brand-new, almost empty highway toward Entebbe. We follow the shore of Lake Victoria before turning onto a road that takes us up a hill.

We check in at Gorilla Africa Guesthouse and spend the rest of the afternoon there. While waiting for the room to be ready, we order a mix of exotic fruit juices (from the menu), but they only have pineapple, which we receive half an hour later—watered down and charged the same price as the fresh juice mix we originally asked for .





The rest of the afternoon passes slowly—we nap, read. We meet two Germans who are finishing their 4-week motorcycle tour of Uganda! We swap stories . Their rental bikes gave them a hard time...

Then comes dinner—vegetable curry and rice. We order breakfast for 6:00 AM; normally, they don’t serve it before 7:00, but the owner agrees.

This is our second-to-last night in Uganda.

Day 21

Today, we're heading to the Mabamba Swamps. A must-visit spot we were really keen to see, hoping to catch a glimpse of the prehistoric Shoebill. We wake up at 5:30 AM. Our bags are packed, and by 6:00 AM, we cross the courtyard to the restaurant—which is closed. The guard is there, alone in the dark. We explain that we’d arranged to have breakfast at 6:00 AM. Nothing happens for 10 minutes, then Ronnie joins us and tells the guard the same thing. The guard knocks on a window. Two minutes later, a young "zombie" comes out, grabs some plates, knives, and margarine. He gives us each a piece of toast and a banana, then leaves (maybe to go back to bed). Well! That was frugal—we’ll grab some peanuts from our room instead.

At 6:35 AM, we leave the guesthouse to head to Entebbe’s small port, planning to take the first ferry to the Mabamba Swamps.





Too late—the 10 spots are already taken. We park the car, Ronnie makes a call, and about fifteen minutes later, we take a "speed boat" that’s anything but fast. After thirty minutes navigating Lake Victoria, we arrive at the swamps. We spot a palm-nut vulture in flight.



What luck! While waiting for the local guide, we cruise along the papyrus with our "speed boat." Suddenly, a splash in the water—could it be an otter? Apparently, we’re the only ones who saw it.

The guide arrives in a canoe, and we switch boats. Barely two minutes in, we enter a small side channel where two other boats are waiting. Right in front of us, as still as a statue, stands a Shoebill!!! 😎😎😎 It’s almost a shame—the "quest" was over so quickly. Our tour operator had said there was little chance we’d see one, so we’d planned two trips to Mabamba. But we’re over the moon!!! We observe it for about twenty minutes, grinning the whole time. What a sight! The guides must’ve spread the word—more boats arrive, and we eventually move on to let other lucky visitors have a turn.











After admiring the Shoebill, we venture deeper into the swamps. Lapwings, herons, weavers, bee-eaters, and kingfishers fly by—probably the last time we’ll see them for a while. So we try to memorize every detail.

The guide, though, just points out birds as they cross his field of vision. Since we’d already spotted the Shoebill, maybe he thought his job was done. I tell Ronnie I’d like to look for otters—I’m sure they’re around. But it’s like I didn’t say anything. Thirty minutes later, the tour ends with this guide, and we get back on our first boat. He waits for a tip… that never comes. 😠

On the way back, we spot spotted-necked otters on our own, since neither the guide nor Ronnie seemed all that interested.

Yet they’re not that hard to find—you just have to want to scan the water’s surface with binoculars and look for the circles they make when they come up for air.

Back in Entebbe and on the way to the guesthouse, we stop to buy two huge avocados.

We split one and eat it with chapattis. It’s so big we can barely finish it! One of these giants costs 60 centimes (CHF) 😎

After this simple but excellent meal, a little nap is more than welcome.

Here are a few more photos to illustrate this beautiful outing to the Mabamba Swamps.

That brings back some great memories... culinary ones too, the avocados there are amazing 😛

Day 21 (continued)

Around 3:00 PM, we head to the Entebbe Botanical Gardens. We spot a large fruit bat napping on an electrical wire.



We wander through the botanical garden on our own without a guide—it feels more like a big park than anything else. We feel free and ready to roam wherever we please.

Ronnie, who didn’t really want to come anyway, waits for us in the parking lot. He thinks we won’t see any birds... You’d think he’s never actually explored the place.

We encounter very few people in the upper part of the park. Soon enough, we spot a gymnogene, then some mantled guerezas.





We reach the shore of Lake Victoria and stop for a Krest at the little bar’s terrace.







Then, we continue our stroll. Suddenly, we hear a... parrot... cry. We start running, stop at the foot of a tree, and just catch sight of a Gabon parrot to our great surprise. What a joy to see it in the wild!



On three large nearby trees, we spot nine great blue turacos perched on the same tree, a crowned hornbill, a white-crested turaco, and gray pelicans flying overhead 😏. Not bad for a place where we weren’t supposed to see much 😛







When we return to Ronnie, he asks sarcastically if we saw anything interesting. Well, yes! When we list everything we saw, he can hardly believe us...

After this very fruitful stroll, we head to a large supermarket in the area. First, we go through a security checkpoint—though it doesn’t seem like they’re checking much. We buy coffee, tea, peanuts, and spices.

We have dinner/soup again—vegetable curry and rice—with the German couple. We wonder what we’ll do the next day. We were supposed to go to Mabamba, but we’re not feeling it. Apparently, Ronnie arranged with this morning’s guide to meet there tomorrow. Honestly, that prospect doesn’t inspire me much. I ask him to find us another guide. He doesn’t want to because it’s the guide he always uses. Well, it’ll be without us! The couple suggests Mpanga Forest, which is 40-45 minutes from Entebbe by ferry. They camped there before coming to Entebbe.

We talk to Ronnie, who’s not thrilled but agrees to take us there. It’s our last night in Uganda. Sniff sniff!

Day 22 - our last day

Just like the day before, breakfast was ordered for 6:00 AM so we could catch the 7:00 AM ferry. But, just like yesterday, the staff was still asleep... and we got our toast at 6:25 AM... with a big upside-down smile. You can’t really say they’re morning people... As expected, we missed the ferry and had to drive all the way around—an hour and a half instead of half the time with the ferry.

We arrive at the first village, and bam—police checkpoint. No joke, Ronnie looks embarrassed, and we’re just hoping to spend our last day in Uganda somewhere other than a police station... No idea what we did wrong. Maybe the officer was just bored that morning. After a few long minutes of uncertainty, he lets us go. Ronnie’s explanation? Not very convincing. But hey, the main thing is we can keep going.

We reach Mpanga Forest. According to Ronnie, the guides know the trails but not the animals. We’ll take what we can get, and unfortunately, it won’t be much different from the rest of the trip...



Sure enough, our guide is just there to show us the way. But he’s not mean.

The forest is dense, but we still manage to spot some colobus monkeys and red-tailed monkeys.



We hear several grey-cheeked hornbills but can’t see them—they’re too high up in the canopy. And, the icing on the cake, a mongoose crosses the trail right after us. I love those moments when you don’t know why you suddenly feel the urge to turn around, and then you see something special. 😎

Butterflies are everywhere on the main path. They’re gorgeous, but they won’t stay still. So we’ve got some amazing images in our heads, but nothing to show you—you’ll just have to take our word for it. 😛

Speaking of trails, we’re really glad we had our boots on because not only is there mud, but some paths are flooded almost up to the top of our boots...





After two hours in Mpanga, we head back to Entebbe, and this time, we take the ferry—it’s a whole different world...









We have chapati and avocado for lunch again. 😏



We say goodbye to Ronnie (finally! I feel awful saying it, but those goodbyes felt like a real relief), and spend the afternoon at the guesthouse. At 8:30 PM, a taxi picks us up to take us to the airport. Our flight is at 11:59 PM. We head to the airport lounge while we wait—by the way, it’s $40 per person, not $15 like some other travel forums mention.

The flight is pretty rough, with quite a few turbulences, especially over the Sahara. It feels endless.

An hour before landing in Brussels, an announcement asks if there’s a doctor on board for an emergency. This is a first for us. A young girl a few rows behind us is lying in the aisle. An American doctor takes care of her—she had alcohol poisoning...

In Brussels, we wait for her to be taken off the plane first, and the rest of us just have to be patient. Luckily, we’ve got enough time before our next flight...

Back in Geneva, the sky is blue, and it’s a chilly 5°C. But what a nice surprise to see the sun! 😄

And so ends our adventure in Uganda. So many emotions and unforgettable moments shared. A few setbacks too, a little too often for our liking. But these are also stories to tell, and in a few years, we’ll only remember the best memories.

Either way, we recommend this destination. If you can and dare, we suggest traveling independently, without a local guide.

We also learned a lot about ourselves, about how we like to travel, and we’ll definitely be more careful and picky next time we book with a tour operator.

Thanks to those who took the time to read this. It’s the first time I’ve written a travel journal, and it’s like reliving the trip all over again. Pure joy!

Take care! 😉

Thank you so much for this amazing travel journal. The photos are really beautiful.

Thanks for this amazing share! 🙂 Seeing the shoebill was a wonder—too bad even here the guide was just average. It’s crazy you pay but can’t choose your guide.... Sounds unbelievable to me! 🏴‍☠️

And I see the adventures continued on the plane too! 😱

Thanks for this story (despite the mishaps 🤪). The bird photos are stunning!

These recent travel journals about Uganda make me want to go back 😎 (but not with Ronnie! 😉). Thanks again. Muriel

Thanks Esther for this beautiful travel journal that brings back wonderful memories.

I get the impression that rhinos can often be seen up close. At least, that was the case for us too. On the other hand, you were really lucky to see the baby.

The shoebill is indeed very impressive, and like you, we found it pretty quickly. Then, we took a tour through the marshes to see other birds and were able to spot a second shoebill. However, no otter for us.🙁

After your misadventures with your guide, I realize we were really lucky. It’s definitely better to go with a guide recommended on the forum or book through a reputable agency, even if it’s more expensive. Still, you had a great trip and saw lots of animals.🙂

Carmen

Just for that look, I’d go back to Uganda in a heartbeat. 🙂