Converting a heavy-duty bus/coach/truck into a motorhome (page 70 of 161)

* Empty weight ticket, in working order: without equipment or with? What equipment are you talking about? If it's the camping equipment, you need to pass it without any equipment (except a partition behind the driver)

* Builder's authorization for TCP to CTTE conversion: ? This is an authorization that the bus builder will send you. For us, we called the Renault factory in Lyon, I think, to ask if it was possible to upgrade our bus to heavy goods vehicle status. They told us yes, and then we asked them to put it in writing... that's this authorization

* Coachwork certificate with load distribution calculation: I think that's the real issue actually, because you have to load your bus with so many tonnes (for us it's 5t) to check if it handles properly under weight... so we who have an S53 that doesn't have a large rear opening, we're going to have a laugh when we need to load it... hehe 5 tonnes is quite bulky.

hey tome38 I think the weigh tickets are in running order with the conversion and the water and fuel tanks 90% full

For the manufacturer's authorization, I think that's for utility vehicles, not motorhomes

hey patrick26 it's not the summons! it's a document that certifies you've filed an application with the DRIRE for reclassifying and updating your vehicle registration

Hi benhurd and hello everyone. After asking a bunch of questions on this forum a few days ago, where I asked if anyone had plans or ideas for converting my S53, people pointed me to you because apparently you've really done an amazing job with your conversion. I'm writing to ask if it would be possible for you to send me your conversion plans or diagrams so I can add to my conversion ideas.

Also, I wanted to know if anyone has managed to get an S53 certified as a "motorhome" without having a driver's door??? And if so, how do you do it and what do you tell the authorities?

If I can't get the "motorhome" designation, I was thinking of just downgrading it to heavy-duty with commercial van bodywork and then converting it. Has anyone done that? What are the risks??

Also, is it hard to insure a converted bus when you've had your heavy-duty license for less than a year??

Thanks to everyone who will answer my questions and to benhurd for your plans if you're okay with it of course. HELLO EVERYONE AND SEE YOU SOON

It's all about business—if the seller advises against wind turbines, it's because he doesn't sell them. Trade show prices are still pretty expensive compared to actual manufacturing costs. For example: a silent SDMO generator selling for €1,600 at CLC (a motorhome accessories seller) goes for around €800–900 direct from the manufacturer. A 25% markup for distributor overhead is normal, but the thing is, just slapping a "motorhome" label on something can multiply its price by 2 or 3 (you'll see plastic plates at €10 each when they're €2–3 in the supermarket).

About the noise:

Are 57 to 59 dB the same thing? Actually, not really—it's a logarithmic scale, so adding 3 dB means you're doubling the sound pressure, and thus the noise.

But anyway, it's still manageable. I'm not that familiar with the scales, but the construction generator on the other side of the bus isn't very loud, so I reckon when it's properly isolated it'd be even better.

For my part, I'm thinking about buying a wind turbine to supplement a generator, maybe even throw in 2 solar panels. The problem with wind turbines is having to assemble and disassemble it every time you leave.

Hi,

For heavy vehicle reclassification, I'm not sure how it works, but some do it before reclassifying to VASP later. However, I'd recommend reclassifying to VASP in the end for several reasons: 1. VASP insurance is cheaper—I pay €500 per year (I've had my license for 1 year) 2. If you have an accident with a gas-equipped vehicle in the heavy vehicle class, it's not good!!

For the driver's door, call your regional authority first, but since the window falls within the emergency exit dimensions, it normally shouldn't be a problem. Plus, I think the regulations on this door changed this year (double-check that).

If you want plans or photos, send me an email at ben08fr@laposte.net (don't include your phone number).

That's all!!

OK, I'll try to respond to everyone....

molosse:

The most annoying points about the Gasperini, in my view, are that it only comes in 12v (how do you use it with a 24v battery bank - which makes sense if you want to recharge it while driving using the alternator of our trucks, which produce 24v?), and that it consumes as much gas per hour as a diesel generator per hour (at the same price - 1 euro a liter!) for an almost identical purchase price. The advantage goes to the generator, which gets fuel from the truck's tank (250l minimum), so you don't have to run around every 100 hours of operation (at idle!) to change the bottle....

As for noise, the Gasperini is advertised with a measurement at 7m (whereas generators are advertised with measurements at 4m!), and at idle! and the measurement is already high for this type of measurement (idle at 7m!) as christian06 pointed out to you....

As for Blaxon, its primary role is to prevent gravel damage. Since it's not on the inside of your sheet metal where you'd risk gravel impacts, I don't see the point. Plus, you're right, it stinks, and it runs whenever it gets too hot....

A good rust inhibitor like Rustol, then a good matte rust-prevention paint in any color (since it won't be in sunlight, so won't react to radiation), will protect your sheet metal perfectly. No coach is treated with Blaxon on the inside. Some are red-orange (Heullez), others black (Neoplan), others the same color as the exterior if it's not metallic (Vanhool, otherwise left as primer!).

As for insulation, if sjunior recommends gluing, it's to avoid thermal bridges. You won't have any problem gluing with an MS polymer cartridge (4 euros per cartridge for 15 to 20 m of bead)! It's the same type of glue that holds your sheet metal to the reinforcements on your car hood! Even after an accident it won't come loose! Of course, you shouldn't use UHU stick!

If we apply two thin coats instead of one thick one, it's not to cost more (my 2 coats of 5-thickness film cost roughly the same as one 7-thickness coat!). It's to prevent condensation! In fact, the first coat is glued directly to the bodywork (which doesn't fear rust, I remind you), the second is placed on the back of the panels that sit on the bus frame, so 4 cm inside. This space will prevent condensation thanks to air circulation, and improve insulation, because just like in a roof, it's better to have one layer under the tiles and one on the ceiling than two on the ceiling.

As for the cost of the interior fitting, if you look carefully at the details I mentioned in a previous post, my interior fitting is not the most expensive part of my vehicle! And at almost 40 years old, it's true that this project is for me a nice luxury in which I put the budget I can afford to take vacations with my kids, and now that the house and cars are paid off. That doesn't stop me from remembering my 20-25 year old self and my Estafette camper van with which I had some good road trips....

Two types of communities are found in this discussion topic: young, less fortunate people and older ones who've had time to prepare their project financially. Aside from a few minor details, we all face the same issues: which vehicle, which equipment, what homologation process, etc....

I have no doubt that the older among us, if they're interested in converted buses today, didn't have a bit of a travel bug when they were younger. And I'm sure that the younger ones, in a few years, once they're well settled, will take up the desire to travel again. When that day comes, it will be (I hope for them), with more means than today....

max24:

As for electricity, like everything else, go see how those who live in vehicles every day do it!

Two types of populations: people who travel (who only live connected to the public grid) American full-timers (retirees who live year-round in luxury motorhomes 12 to 15 m long)

Go look on the internet at the equipment offered on vehicles they buy! You'll get an idea of what you need! That's how I proceeded to come up with the 2 plans I've drawn up and which are on my blog in the electricity section.

As for heating, I think you're making a mistake by focusing on gas. On the same blog, check out the heating section. All buses and coaches are heated this way (standard conversions or custom!), there must be a reason, they're not all idiots!

tome38, molosse, jose6440:

There's confusion in what you're saying! Some of you are talking about downgrading to VASP NSPC, others to VASP MOTOR-HOME.

The unladen weight is measured in running order, that is, with all equipment in place, for VASP MOTOR-HOME homologation (the downgrade that normally interests us for making camper vans!) This weight is therefore measured with furnishings, full gas bottles, water tanks (clean!) full to 90/100 (as josé6440 correctly said), without passengers, driver or luggage. Their weight will be added later for a flat rate of 75 kg per person + a calculation for luggage that you'll find in the Veritas standard we talked about on previous pages.

The unladen weight without equipment is reserved for VASP NSPC homologation, that is, vehicles that remain, to all appearances, trucks and that will therefore never be allowed to carry gas (so they can't equip themselves with a Gasperini for example...), must keep their tachograph and have it inspected every 2 years (even if the owner is exempt from using it - and him alone, the others must use a disc!), keep the ban on driving on Sundays and public holidays, etc....

Last point, the annual inspection happens with full tanks for a VASP MOTOR-HOME. The payload doesn't need to be loaded. For a VASP NSPC, you have to arrive loaded to the GVWR! That's the game each year, you have to be athletic!

jose6440:

OK for the file submission certificate! But be careful! It's normally only usable by a professional registered in the trade register as a body technician, body-builder, heavy vehicle mechanic, etc... (there's a precise list). As a private individual, you could be fined! Ask for confirmation, but I don't think I'm mistaken based on the checks I've just done in my EC standards.

drikC85:

As for the driver's door, see the post I put on page 19. You'll find the answer there.

And a personal message to those with whom I have a bit more affinity on this discussion topic. It's tomorrow, Friday, that I'm at Montpellier University Hospital for my exams.... it's going to be a long day.... 😕

Good evening everyone,

PATRICK26

Hi, I confirm what PATRICK26 said—the certificate isn't issued to private individuals and has no value for downclassification. It's used to present a new vehicle for road approval and thus registration.

I presented myself as a professional... in entertainment 😄😄😄, and they refused me. SAME thing once the application is accepted: NO CERTIFICATE ISSUED, you go back to TCP 😠 until you receive your certificate to go pick up your new registration card.

Hey guys, that would be way too easy, right? 😉

Anyway, dreams are all we've got... 😏😇

Thanks Patrick for your great advice! As for the Blaxon, it's the material that interests me, so I was simply wondering if someone knew of a similar product that's less of a hassle. Of course, I know what rust protection is...

We didn't put our bus through VASP NSPC, but we were thinking of having it reclassified as a heavy vehicle so we could run it from time to time legally (you know very well how important it is for it to get regular use).

As for the clips, I'm keeping them (not really into the chemistry stuff) and my UHU too (I'll use it for gluing my linoleum in the bathroom!!).

Nope, it's not the money that's the problem but making the right choices. There are so many ways to waste your money...

Good luck tomorrow! KEEP SMILE

Hi

with a bus or a coach, you can do the same conversions to turn it into a motorhome, and it won't be a problem with the DRIRE!

a bus can drive anywhere in France or elsewhere!

Hey

When you guys talk about putting partitions inside, what exactly do you mean?

Making a partition behind the driver like that! Separating the driver's cab from the living area!

If I keep the driver's seat + 8 passenger seats up front, do I need to put a partition like you said right behind the driver's seat or after the passenger seats!

As Patrick mentioned, we're getting our wires crossed here... I'm talking about reclassifying a bus as a heavy vehicle—that is, a vehicle for transporting goods rather than passengers, with no camper setup either (gas, electricity, etc.). To pass inspection, you definitely need a partition behind the driver's seat to prevent anything from falling on him while he's driving. If you keep 9 seats (8+1) on your bus, it can't be reclassified because it'll still be classified as a bus. You need fewer than nine seats, I think... should double-check the earlier posts.

😉 Hey,

some tips for batteries

http://www.batteries-service.fr/...tent_base=teste.html

ciao.

Can someone tell me which coaches or buses are large and have interior height of more than 1.95M from floor to ceiling? I'm tall myself.

Thanks for letting me know if there are any suitable buses for me!

Cheers 😎

😉 the Renault S53

BUT THERE MUST BE OTHERS

Patrick 26 et Molosse

Hi, I got information from the DRIRE of Moselle, and the inspector gave me some tips:

Actually, Patrick isn't quite right, and Molosse you're mistaken about the reclassification:

in the case of heavy-duty / van truck reclassification

to present for the reclassification inspection, the vehicle must be loaded to 2/3 of its GVWR (in my case, fitting about 5 tons ). I don't think I'll ever reach that weight—we'll see—and I don't want to overload my bus to avoid damaging it on the route (speed bumps etc...). Plus, there's the need to create partitions behind the last rows to protect against any cargo entering the passenger compartment (possibility of leaving a door).

in the case of VASP NSPC reclassification (my temporary choice)

the GVWR is the one given by the manufacturer, but there's NO need to present for inspection fully loaded or even at 2/3. Just present the weigh receipts. In that case, no need to change the seats, no need for seat belts, and the vehicle simply must NOT BE ABLE TO BE PHYSICALLY LOADED: that is, in addition to the nine seats you keep from the original, you're trying to fill the remaining space, and that can be with the remaining seats (in the case of a screening room) or like me by adding an EXPO space for my association for example, I planned to install a hammock (for the inspection 😛 to block 5m²).

I chose this option because, not having a category D license, I couldn't drive the bus until it's approved. Plus, with VASP NSPC, you can redo a transformation to VASP HOMECAR when the vehicle matches that category.

Of course, it's clear that I won't use gas in this scenario: it's forbidden. No matter, the bus can follow me in my travels and I'll set it up as I go.

Most logical case and best solution: VASP HOMECAR

the only downside: mandatory setup without moving the vehicle, and getting it right the first time, or risk having the Véritas (or other) inspection rejected, and it takes time.

Patrick, what do you think of my idea? I know you think driving in VASP NSPC is garbage, but I think it's good for a transitional state. (knowing that I don't use gas, and that like you I'm working on setup without the constraint of technical inspections every 6 months, and as soon as I have the gas installed, I get back on the normal Véritas, DRIRE, VASP Homecar circuit)...

😉 the Renault S53

BUT THERE MUST BE OTHERS

Hey there's a post on VF that might interest Tome38 or others: http://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=818175#818175

( you just have to follow the conversion rules for code 69200 (which you'll find at Veritas)

Can anyone tell me what this 69200 rule at Veritas is????

🙂 THANKS CHRISTIAN06, I didn't know there was a "classifieds" section on this Forum, I just posted mine there with a mega description and photos 😉

so interested folks: check classifieds--> Used Equipment --> For Sale: HOMOLOGATED CAMPER ...

trying the link (in case it works ): http://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=819838;page=unread#unread

there's even an 11.5m one from a theater group for sale if anyone's interested 😉

alright, I'm closing that parenthesis

catch you, GX47

I think you're getting your wires crossed... aren't you talking about the 56-200 standard?😐

You'll find that standard on page 24 or click here: http://voyageforum.com/voyage/amenager_un_camping_car_poids_lourd_dans_un_bus_car_camion_D65235-24/

Lucky you, it's free for you today.😉

As others have already mentioned, you need to read everything from page 19 onward—lots of answers to questions are in those pages.

So for you, tome38, no more questions until next week...😄 time to read it all.😏